Darren Alan Perfumes Cuir de Russie via Sandi

Darren Alan Perfumes Cuir de Russie is a unique reinterpretation of the classic leather fragrance; Darren has skillfully combined a vibrant array of top, heart, and base notes to create an intricate and artistic scent experience that radiates opulence and elegance. This unique and creative take on a revered fragrance from eras past is as they were swoon-worthy. I have worn this perfume several times across various temperatures, and it remains exquisite regardless of the weather.

Photo Darren Alan of Darren Alan Perfumes via the brand

“Russian Leather is a tanning process that treats the leather with birch oil, which gives it a dark, smoky nuance reminiscent of castoreum. I wanted to counterpoint that heavy darkness against light citrus & delicate florals to create a yin-yang effect that vacillates between dark and light. I didn’t want to copy previous Cuir de Russie releases, such as the Chanel, but rather make my own representation of Cuir de Russie as a genre.” -Darren Alan

Photo Collage ingredients via Sandi

Darren Alan Perfumes Cuir de Russie announces itself with an effervescent warm burst of citrus. The bright and zesty blend of lemon, bergamot, and mandarin invigorates my senses as it uplifts me, while a hint of tarragon adds an unexpected herbaceous twist. This refreshing opening is sweetened by a succulent peach note, interwoven with a warm spiciness from clove and the intriguing lift of aldehydes, setting an enticing stage for the heart. As the citrus and opening notes merge and soften, it transitions smoothly into its richly floral heart of Jasmine and rose, exuding a classic elegance complemented by the sensuality of ylang-ylang. Carnation and cinnamon whisper depth, while Orris adds a velvety quality. The nuanced note of Galbanum provides a green freshness that harmonizes beautifully, grounding the floral notes. This heart is further enriched by the warmth of amber and the complexity of patchouli, alongside a soft leather accord that threads through it like a fine weaving. The base notes reveal Cuir de Russie’s actual depth, cohesively merging the perfume into all its beauty. The resinous sweetness of opoponax, Peru balsam, and Tolu balsam encircle the leather, adding richness and warmth. Benzoin and Tonka bean are creamy and soft, while sandalwood adorns a lavish smoothness to the oakmoss and vetiver, contributing an earthy, grounding layer that deepens the scent’s composure. Castoreum and musk add a hint of animalic sensuality, evoking a sense of intimacy and warmth. Cuir de Russie reminds me that we all have varied lives- layered, complex, and beautifully unique.

 Yin and Yang/ Light and Dark with  Darren Alan Perfumes Cuir de Russie via Sandi AI

Cuir de Russie is a masterfully blended perfume that pays homage to its predecessors while standing confidently on its own. It feels like I am donning a second skin; it empowers me and tells a story that needs no words. It is timeless yet refreshingly modern. Bright, floral, and deeper resinous notes create a well-rounded, dynamic, lavish scent. It is perfect for those who appreciate complexity in fragrance and leaves a memorable and luxurious imprint.

Top notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Mandarin, Tarragon, Peach, Clove, Aldehydes; Heart notes: Jasmine, Rose, Ylang Ylang, Carnation, Cinnamon, Orris, Galbanum, Amber, Patchouli, Leather; Base notes: Opoponax, Peru Balsam, Tolu Balsam, Benzoin, Tonka Bean, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Castoreum, Musk

Sandi Lundberg, Senior Contributor

Disclosure: The review is based on the January Subscription to Darren Alan Perfumes

photo courtesy of the brand

Thanks to the generosity of Darren Alan, we have a10ml bottle of Cuir de Russie for one registered reader in the USA ONLY. You must register, or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please comment on what sparked your interest in Sandi’s review and where you live. Draw closes 2/272025.

Enjoy Darren Alan’s Profile in American Perfumery.

Please read Ida’s review of Dust and Clay.  Rachel’s review of Honeysuckle Summer which was a best of scent 2024 . Jonquille received a Best of Scent for 2023,

Darren is our Notes from the Lab (Animalics) and Ingredients Contributor (Cinnamon)

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