Patricia de Nicolaï and Irving Penn
I had the privilege of interviewing Patricia de Nicolai on the occasion of the 25th anniversary of Parfums de Nicolaï. In that interview, I compared her to Amelia Earhart, as she pioneered niche perfumery, as a perfumer and as a woman. For those not familiar with her iconic status (although she is so humble in person), she began her career 35 years ago, in the 80’s and is the great-granddaughter of Pierre Guerlain and the niece of Jean-Paul Guerlain. After being told that a woman could not run the Guerlain business, Patricia de Nicolai became the first lady of niche…beginning her own company 30 years ago. To quote Patricia de Nicolai from that interview, “Everything is ahead and the best is always to come. Every day is a battle and you must never rely on a so-called success of yours otherwise you’re finished!” Today, we continue celebrating her significance to perfumery as we go “behind the bottle” of her new fragrance Baïkal Leather Intense (reviewed yesterday by Senior Editor Ida Meister here, Ida and I put together five questions and she graciously gives us her insights into her world and what’s next-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Axel de Nicolaï with his mother and partner in perfume Patricia de Nicolaï
In 2014, your son Axel joined Parfums de Nicolaï. What attributes, qualities does he contribute? How do your points of view differ? In what areas are you in accord?
Patricia de Nicolaï: My son Axel joined the company with a serious fragrance background working with L’Oréal, Givenchy and Interparfums in Dubaï. He brought a significant and important impact in terms of sales developement by opening new markets and by putting in place a new export sales team. He is also much more involved in the creation process than my husband, which is quite positive. Even if I am still the main perfumer who knows how to finalize a formula, Axel is always by my side during the evaluation process and this is the case with all the fragrances created since Ambre Cashmere Intense (reviewed by former Contributor Jasia Julia Neilson). He loves powerful fragrances and I sometime think that he values the strength over the beauty of a note and often wants tenacity perhaps more than I. However, most of the time we agree on what should be done. He understands the niche perfume market, so we tend to be in accord on the new fragrances to develop. We are very complementary.
Patricia de Nicolaï
What fascinates you these days? New accords or projects?
Patricia de Nicolaï: I’m fascinated by the proliferation of so many new fragrances! It is fascinating but also disturbing…Too many fragrances are now produced! It’s also amazing to see the fast development of all these “ exclusive “ or “ private “ collections created by big brands in order to simply follow what was created by niche brands 30 years ago. Now these large brands saw an opening capitalizing on independent and niche fragrances. However, in this range of “Haute Parfumerie” there are many inequalities in terms of olfactory creativity. One example, I was recently at an exhibition in Paris and I smelled a lovely perfume worn by a lady next to me… a fragrance that I always loved Must du Soir by Cartier. But I actually was wrong! The lady told me that the fragrance was Fève Délicieuse by Dior…
Regarding our new Parfums de Nicolaï projects, I’m currently working with Axel on a yuzu note for an Eau Fraiche and I would like to develop a very nice iris and a solar note. Finally, we are quite advanced on the creation process of a smoky tea scent inspired by Thé Narghilé, one of my home fragrances.
Photo by Pascal Sillon, Senior Perfumer for Symrise for an article for CaFleureBon where Patricia de Nicolaï and Pascal presented Bases in Perfumery
As President of the Osmothèque, do you feel that access to the de Laire bases has quickened your love of certain materials (amber, iris, cuir)?
I have been loving de Laire bases for a long time now and even before being President of the Osmothèque ! Bases like Amber 83, Cuir de Russie, Gardenia, Mousse de Saxe Piviane …I discovered them and many others from different companies (Firmenich, Synarome, Roure…) when I was a young ISIPCA student at the end of the 70’s.
Photo by Pascal Sillon, Senior Perfumer for Symrise for an article for CaFleureBon
Patricia de Nicolaï: They structured my olfactive memory, helped me to understand the unique French perfume style and truly gave me great inspirations in order to create subtle and stylish fragrances. This was the old school way to learn perfumery. Nowadays, current students do not learn perfumery by using these old bases…Which is quite a shame!
Stream in a Birch Forest, 1883 Ivan Shishkin
Now to your latest fragrance Baïkal Leather Intense: what is it about Cuir de Russie that captures your imagination? What do you envision when you smell it?
Patricia de Nicolaï: For many years I wanted to create a leather fragrance inspired by Cuir de Russie. The leather from Russia is indeed mythical. It was an excellent piece of leather and had a very particular scent. This leather came from suede skin on which the vegetal base tanning was made using birch barks giving a woody and smoky olfactive note very unique. Gone with the Russian Revolution, it was, and still is, considered as the quintessence of leather. Thus, it is during an imaginary trip in the Tran Siberian that I felt inspired; especially by large Siberian birch forests which extend as far as the eye can see.
Vladimir Pervuninsky©
Far from harsh leather, it is the soft and velvet side of the tanning of a suede skin that drives the creation of Baïkal Leather Intense and I am very looking forward to customers to try it.
What particular significance does your 30th anniversary have?
Patricia de Nicolaï: I feel satisfy and happy to celebrate the 30th’s birthday of our company which started totally from scratch. When my husband encouraged me to start Parfums de Nicolaï it was a crazy idea and a total leap in the dark at the time (niche brands were quasi non-existing). I’m proud that along with my family we created a company which now employs more than 30 people who are totally committed to always look forward. I’m very proud to have succeeded to keep our origins, authenticity and independence which were never altered unlike many other brands that are now purchased by big names or hedge funds.
Thanks to the largess of Parfums de Nicolaï, we have a 30 ml flacon of Parfums de Nicolaï Baïkal Leather Intense for one registered reader anywhere in the world (continued from yesterday, so leave another comment for it to count twice or LIKE CaFleureBon behind the Bottle on Facebook and your comment will also count twice. There is ONLY one winner from both 9/3 and 9/4 posts. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please tell us what you enjoyed most about our interview with Patricia de Nicolaï and where you live. Draw closes 9/7/2019
Art Direction: Michelyn
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