Benzoin In Perfumery: “The Resin That Resonates” + Aftelier Perfumes Giveaway

Benzoin botanical woodcut colored by Mandy Aftel

 Benzoin botanical hand drawn and colored by Natural Perfumer Mandy Aftel©

Benzoin resin is one of perfumery’s most valuable and versatile natural materials, playing a crucial role in contemporary fragrance creation. This aromatic substance, harvested from trees of the genus Styrax, provides perfumers with a complex palette of warm, sweet, and balsamic notes that function as primary olfactive elements and technical enhancers within fragrance compositions.

The resin is extracted from lacerations made into the bark of the tree. The tree “bleeds” a sticky, resinous sap, which is allowed to harden. The crystallized resin is scraped from the tree’s bark and dried in the sun. It can be used as incense in this solid resin form for fumigation on hot coals, much like Frankincense and Myrrh, or it can be further processed via solvent extraction or distillation for use in perfumery, aromatherapy, or for medical use.

benzoin incense

 Lidded incense burner 2nd century Han Dynasty, Licensed by WikiCommons

Historical records indicate benzoin was used in China as early as the 7th century BCE. In that period, it was known as An-si-xiang, and it was named after the Parthian Empire through which it was traded. Chinese medicinal texts praised benzoin not only for its fragrance but also for its purported therapeutic properties, particularly for respiratory ailments. Benzoin is believed to have magical and spiritual properties across many Eastern and Western cultures. The resin is used in rituals to purify spaces when burned as an incense, shield against negativity, enhance concentration, attract positive energies and prosperity.

Benzoin resin derives its distinctive character from a complex mixture of aromatic compounds. The primary constituents include Benzoic and Cinnamic acids and their esters, Vanillin, various resin alcohols, sumaresinolic and siaresinolic acids, triterpenes, and phenylpropanoid compounds.

These components create benzoin’s multifaceted olfactive profile, which exhibits a dominant sweet, vanilla-like character with warm, balsamic undertones, mild spicy and powdery aspects, and hints of cinnamon in certain varieties. Benzoin’s complexity derives from these primary notes and their harmonious interplay, creating an aroma that evolves on the skin and interacts dynamically with other fragrance ingredients.

Siam Benzoin Resin

Siam Benzoin Resin via Darren Alan

Perfumers distinguish between two primary varieties of benzoin, each with distinctive characteristics that make them suited to different applications. Siam Benzoin is traditionally sourced from Styrax tonkinensis trees in Laos, Vietnam, and Thailand. It contains a higher vanillin content, displays a smoother odor profile, and has a pronounced sweetness. Siam Benzoin is perfect for gourmand compositions and is of superior quality.

Sumatra Benzoin Resin

Sumatra Benzoin Resin compliments of Darren Alan

Sumatra Benzoin is harvested from Styrax benzoin trees, which are primarily found in Indonesia. It offers pronounced resinous qualities, stronger cinnamic notes, and a slightly sharper profile.

Beyond its direct olfactive contribution, benzoin serves several critical technical functions in fragrance composition. Benzoin remains one of perfumery’s most effective natural fixatives, significantly extending the longevity of volatile components like citrus oils and floral notes. Its molecular structure allows it to create a matrix that binds with these materials, slowing their evaporation and improving overall performance. Evaporation rate studies and headspace analysis have scientifically documented this fixative capability.

Perfumers value benzoin for its ability to harmonize disparate elements within complex formulations. It is an olfactive “bridge,” smoothing transitions between fragrance phases and reducing perceptible rough edges between contrasting materials. This property is particularly valuable in modern compositions that combine synthetic and natural materials.

The 19th century saw the emergence of the modern perfume industry in France, with houses like Guerlain, Houbigant, and Lubin incorporating benzoin into their signature compositions. The famous “Guerlinade” base, developed by Jacques Guerlain in 1921, featured benzoin as a key component, exemplifying its importance in creating the foundation of many classic French perfumes.

Benzoin is essential in constructing the classic amber accord, typically combined with labdanum and vanilla. Perfumes utilizing these amber constructions first appeared in the 19th century, with benzoin providing the crucial sweet warmth that defined the genre of that era.

The development of synthetic vanillin in 1874 presented the first significant alternative to benzoin’s vanilla-like aspects, though many perfumers continued to prefer the complex, multifaceted character of natural benzoin. This tension between natural and synthetic materials would become a defining feature of modern perfumery.

 

 Shalimar via wiki media

The early 20th century witnessed benzoin’s incorporation into what was is now referred to as the Amber category, exemplified by Guerlain’s “Shalimar” (1925) and Coty’s “Emeraude” (1921). These compositions leveraged benzoin’s warm, vanilla-like qualities to create sensual, exotic impressions that captivated the Western nose.

The natural vanillic aspects of benzoin make it invaluable in gourmand compositions. These compositions provide sophisticated sweetness without the linear quality of synthetic vanillin. Perfumers often layer multiple benzoin fractions to create complex gourmand signatures that evolve in complexity on the skin.

Benzoin adds warmth, depth, and sensuality in men’s perfumery while maintaining a sophisticated profile that appeals to contemporary consumers. Its presence in fougère and woody-aromatic compositions can help to ground volatile top notes and extend performance while providing a balsamic sweetness without leaning feminine or gourmand.

Prada Candy

Prada Candy collage by Darren Alan 

Contemporary perfumery has embraced benzoin as a showcase ingredient, with houses like Diptyque and Prada creating compositions highlighting its complex character. Master perfumer Daniela Andrier of Givaudan (who received a 2025 Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement award) revolutionized the use of this ancient resin in modern commercial perfumery by incorporating a whopping 12% dose of benzoin in her formula for Prada Candy. The result is a redolent, sultry drydown that offers caramel and balsamic tones without presenting as cloying or overly sweet—sheer poetry for the nose.

Benzoin’s remarkable journey through perfumery history demonstrates the enduring relationship between natural materials and human aesthetic expression. From ancient religious ceremonies to contemporary luxury perfumes, benzoin has maintained relevance by adapting to changing technical capabilities, cultural preferences, and creative visions.

As the perfume industry addresses sustainability challenges and navigates between natural and synthetic materials, benzoin is a model of adaptability and enduring beauty. Its complex chemistry, rich cultural associations, and versatile olfactive profile ensure that this ancient aromatic substance will continue to inspire perfumers and delight perfume enthusiasts for generations to come.

We’ll give the last word to award-winning natural perfumer Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes: “I often have to restrain myself from using benzoin since it is such good friend to other essences – supporting them with a quiet grace. Benzoin’s soft and flat vanilla aroma is due to the presence of the aroma molecule vanillin. This sweet warm note evolves into a balsamic powdery finish.”

–Darren Alan, Contributor and Perfumer for Darren Alan Perfumes

Cepes & Tuberose by Aftelier perfumes

Thanks to the generosity of Mandy Aftel, we have a mini of Aftelier Perfumes Cepes and Tuberose (Benzoin is dosed at 17% in Cepes and Tuberose). The giveaway is for registered readers only, so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what sparked your interest about Darren Alan’s article on Benzoin in perfumery, what you learned and where you live. Draw close 6/2/25

Notes for Aftelier Perfumes Cepes and Tuberose include bitter orange, rosewood, Italian tuberose, cepes absolute, benzoin and sandalwood.

Please read Ermano’s Modern Masterpiece article for Cepes and Tuberose here

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33 comments

  • Yassine Staili says:

    Darren Alan’s exploration of benzoin in perfumery was truly enlightening. I was captivated by the detailed distinction between Siam and Sumatra benzoin—learning that Siam benzoin, sourced from Styrax tonkinensis in regions like Laos and Thailand, offers a smoother, sweeter profile due to its higher vanillin content, making it ideal for gourmand compositions. In contrast, Sumatra benzoin, from Styrax benzoin trees in Indonesia, presents a more resinous and cinnamic character.What particularly resonated with me was understanding benzoin’s dual role: not only does it impart a warm, sweet, and balsamic aroma to fragrances, but it also acts as a natural fixative, enhancing the longevity of more volatile notes like citrus and florals. This dual functionality underscores its significance in both historical and modern perfumery.
    i want to Thank you for this insightful piece and the opportunity to participate in the Aftelier Perfumes giveaway.
    Living in Agadir, Morocco

  • opalbear says:

    Two of my favorite perfumers Darren Alan and Mandy Aftel talking about one of my favorite resins! Yeah!! This is why I love ÇaFleureBon. I knew a bit about benzoin such as its vanilla quality, fixative ability, its intrinsic part in “amber” accords and history of use but I didn’t know the differences between Sumatran and the ones from Thailand, Vietnam and Laos. Always find it fascinating how the soil, sun, water and conditions can alter the scent of the same species of plants! I also did not know Prada Candy had that much benzoin in it. Thank you for a fascinating article! And the generous giveaway! I do not have Cepes and Tubetose but would loooooooove to own it. I am located in the U.S.

  • agent72 says:

    I never fully understood what “amber” is supposed to mean in perfume; this helps. I haven’t tried Tuberose and Cepes but I’d like to compare this earthier take to Shalimar and Prada Candy (real benzoin? That seems implausible). I’m in the US.

  • tereortega says:

    It’s wonderful to see a spotlight on both a foundational ingredient like benzoin and a more experimental fragrance like Cépes and Tuberose. It emphasizes the importance of understanding the building blocks of perfume as well as the artistic vision that can lead to truly unique scents.
    From Philippines.

  • LeonardFlores says:

    Mandy Aftel’s work, as highlighted by these two articles, seems to be a masterclass in juxtaposition. Taking a resin with such a rich history and diverse profile like benzoin and then creating a fragrance that blends earthy and floral notes in a surprising way is truly the mark of an olfactory artist.
    Forget to put where I live in
    From Philippines

  • melanierosefragrances says:

    I saw Mandy’s post about this article on instagram and couldn’t wait to read it! I knew Prada Candy used Benzoin, but had no idea it was at 12%! I also found it fascinating to read about how the material is made- lacerations in the bark… who figured that out first? I live in Northern Virginia, near DC. Thanks for this great giveaway!

  • SandiL says:

    What a great post, Darren! Benzoin is a versatile favorite of mine.. Benzoin adds many qualities to a perfume, including warmth, comfort, depth, and adaptability! It can enhance and bring everything together harmoniously to a stunning crescendo! Thanks for this informative post.

  • Helena says:

    My initial spark of interest was the lovely illustration of Styrax Benzoin by Mandy Aftel. I learned that benzoin is a bridge within complicated perfume blends. I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada. Thank you, this was a wonderful article with a lot of interesting information

  • helenlam says:

    I’ve always liked benzoin and now I know why! Ambers are one of my favorites and I learned that benzoin works really well to smooth out compositions! I live in the US. Thanks for the giveaway!

  • Sherin Thomas says:

    Very nice composition. . Always find it fascinating how the soil, sun, water and conditions can alter the scent of the same species of plants! I also did not know Prada Candy had that much benzoin in it. From PA, USA

  • Stasia12 says:

    I’ve smelled this fragrance before but had no idea it was full of benzoin! I have chunk of this also that I burn on charcoal but I definitely think the extracted form is far different. I would be interested to smell the Prada after this blog . Amazing to me still how much trees give us – does benzion have medicinal properties also like frankincense and. Myrhh ? Be interesting to have an all resin based perfume ! Thanks for sharing ! Live in NY far faraway from the lands of resinous trees

  • stasia12 says:

    How I long to be in near the trunk of a fragrant tree. We must arm ourselves in beauty to face the ugliness outside . Thank you for sharing the story of benzion I had no idea it was the heart of cepes. I will look at the raw chunk I have in my box of resins that I treasure for when no one is home and I can burn charcoal without having the police called …thank you for sharing I’m in NY- especially now , escape is needed . I’m going to see if it also has medicinal
    Qualities like its famous biblical counterparts. Makes you wonder how much longer we have to treasure things like this . New York , thanks for the chance and for the words !

  • teatreesoil says:

    wow, i had no idea of the long history of benzoin resin! the breakdown in differences between the sources of benzoin is interesting, but unfortunately most of the time the type of benzoin used in a fragrance isn’t disclosed… however, i wonder if this benzoin (natural) vs vanillin (artificial) debate/tension is part of why most vanilla fragrances turn smoky on my skin & others are just fine. i’ve noticed the latter category (Vanillas that don’t turn on me) tend to feature a softer and more nuanced vanilla, perhaps benzoin-sourced vanilla notes are fine while pure vanillin doesn’t work for me? hmmm

    i haven’t ever smelled prada candy but now i have to check it out! thanks for the fascinating write-up & the giveaway. from USA

  • mleenstra says:

    This was such an interesting read. I didn’t know there were two different sorts of Benzoin that had a different character. It is also so interesting to learn that the use of Benzoin can be traced back to the 7th century BC. When I started learning abouy perfumes I always found Benzoin difficult to pick out due to its vanilla-like scent, but as I smelled it more often I learned it is different from vanilla in that it has a balsamic, powdery quality which is actually quite distinctive. Marit, EU

  • Annika says:

    Very informative article Darren! I didn’t realize the long history of benzoin in modern perfumery alll the way back to the 19the century in France with Houses like Guerlain and Houbigant. I also learned that there was more than one variety of benzoin, each with its own unique characteristics. I love Cepes and Tuberose from Mandy Aftel. I didn’t realize the concentration of benzoin was so high in the fragrance. MD, USA.

  • aditu says:

    I learned so much from this article! Benzoin is listed as a note in a few perfumes I’ve been recently investigating, so this piece was timely for my own fragrance understanding and growth. I did not know there were different varieties of benzoin, with different scent profiles, or that it lends a complex, non-linear vanilla note. I had also recently just come across the term “Guerlinade” for the first time, so loved learning the explanation here of what (in broad strokes) that is. I also appreciated learning the basic composition of the traditional amber accord using benzoin. It would be great to have a chance to experience Aftelier Perfumes Cepes and Tuberose with it’s high benzoin concentration, to get a real world manifestation of the information in this article. I am in MA USA.

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    Perfumers distinguish between two primary varieties of benzoin, each with distinctive characteristics that make them suited to different applications. Siam Benzoin is traditionally sourced from Styrax tonkinensis trees in Laos, Vietnam, and Thailand. It contains a higher vanillin content, displays a smoother odor profile, and has a pronounced sweetness. Siam Benzoin is perfect for gourmand compositions and is of superior quality. Sumatra Benzoin is harvested from Styrax benzoin trees, which are primarily found in Indonesia. It offers pronounced resinous qualities, stronger cinnamic notes, and a slightly sharper profile. A beautiful description by Darren Alan fascinating to learn about Siam and Sumatra Benzoin. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • Amaziz89 says:

    Benzoin resin is one of perfumery’s most valuable and versatile natural materials, playing a crucial role in contemporary fragrance creation. This aromatic substance, harvested from trees of the genus Styrax, provides perfumers with a complex palette of warm, sweet, and balsamic notes that function as primary olfactive elements and technical enhancers within fragrance compositions. I was completely fascinated by the versatility and

    The resin is extracted from lacerations made into the bark of the tree. The tree “bleeds” a sticky, resinous sap, which is allowed to harden. The crystallized resin is scraped from the tree’s bark and dried in the sun. It can be used as incense in this solid resin form for fumigation on hot coals, much like Frankincense and Myrrh, or it can be further processed via solvent extraction or distillation for use in perfumery, aromatherapy, or for medical use.I was fascinated to learn about the versatility and valuable nature of Benzoin in religious and diverse cultural roles. Thanks a million from the UK

  • Jeremi says:

    Darren Alan’s article on benzoin in perfumery, published on ÇaFleureBon, sparked my interest due to its deep dive into the historical and sensory significance of benzoin, a resin with a rich legacy in fragrance creation. The article highlights benzoin’s warm, balsamic, vanilla-like qualities, which I found intriguing as it underscores its versatility in modern perfumery. I learned that benzoin, derived from the Styrax tree, has been used since ancient times as incense and is valued for its ability to act as a fixative, prolonging a perfume’s scent, as seen in fragrances like Aftelier Perfumes’ Boheme Confection. The article also explores benzoin’s role in creating comforting, creamy notes in compositions like Badar Parfums Sinaï, where it enhances rose and oud with a sweet, balsamic depth. Additionally, Alan’s connection of benzoin to cultural and historical contexts, such as its use in ancient rituals, added a fascinating layer to its modern application in niche perfumery. I live in Poland, EU.

  • rachel wiener says:

    As an amber lover, it’s so fascinating to learn about the individual components and what they each contribute to the accord. Darren does a masterful job of explaining benzoin’s history and importance to perfume. I love Prada Candy and Benjoin Boheme by Diptyque. I’ve always wanted to try Mandy’s Celes and Tuberose and had no idea it was so Benzoin heavy! Thank you for this illuminating article and for the giveaway. I’m in NYC

  • halimuyak says:

    The contrast between the traditional, almost comforting and grounding presence of benzoin in perfumery – with its historical uses and familiar warm, sweet, and balsamic tones – and the strikingly innovative pairing of earthy cèpes with the opulent sweetness of tuberose in Mandy Aftel’s creation is truly fascinating. It beautifully illustrates the dynamic nature of perfumery as an art form. On one hand, there’s a deep respect for heritage, for the time-honored ingredients and their well-understood characteristics that have formed the backbone of countless beloved fragrances. Benzoin, in this context, represents a connection to the past, a familiar embrace. On the other hand, fragrances like Cépes and Tuberose demonstrate the bold spirit of innovation, the desire to venture into uncharted olfactory territories and challenge conventional expectations. By juxtaposing seemingly disparate notes, Aftel not only creates a unique and memorable scent profile but also pushes the boundaries of what perfume can be, inviting us to experience scent in a new and perhaps even surreal way. This duality – the celebration of established traditions alongside the courage to experiment – is what keeps perfumery vibrant, evolving, and endlessly captivating.
    From Philippines.

  • Danniel says:

    More articles like this please. I loved learning about the history of benzoin as well as the different types of benzoin and it’s technical uses in perfumery. I’m in the USA.

  • amanna says:

    Fascinating write up about one of the more un-sung supporting notes in fragrance! I learned a lot – about the differences between the two major types of benzoin, about benzoin’s vanillin content, and its revival in modern perfumery. I’m going to have to try to sniff it out in some of my amber perfumes (including my sample of Cepes and Tuberose – an excellent, rich perfume!)

    Best wishes from the US!

  • ericwaynebiscuit says:

    I love the ingredient rundowns!! And to get one straight from a perfumer like Darren is a treat. Loved learning about the history of Benzoin from its uses to it’s more modern perfumery application. Thanks Darren, thanks ÇaFleureBon, and thanks Mandy! Excited to hopefully try Cepes and Tuberose soon. I’m located in VA, USA.

  • mmerline says:

    I haven’t smelled benzoin on its own, so I didn’t realize it has such a multifaceted smell, or that it can vary by variety (“hints of cinnamon”). More interesting is that these notes evolve when worn and “interact dynamically with other fragrance ingredients”. While I knew benzoin was used as a fixative, the way it’s used as an olfactive bridge is surprising. The examples how fragrances using Benzoin were also surprising—like that 12% dose of benzoin in Prada Candy. Very informative writeup.

    I’m in the USA.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    Reading about benzoin and the extraction process was very interesting. I wasn’t familiar with this note. Wow Prada Candy had a lot of benzoin. I had that long ago. I like that there is the sweetness, but not synthetic. I’d love to try Mandy’s creation. Thanks for the insight Darren. USA.

  • Jos says:

    What captivated me most was Darren’s scientific explanation of benzoin’s fixative mechanism—how its molecular structure creates a “matrix that binds with volatile components” to slow evaporation. As someone fascinated by the chemistry behind perfumery, I’d never understood the actual science behind why benzoin works so effectively as a fixative beyond the general concept.
    The revelation about Daniela Andrier’s revolutionary 12% benzoin dosage in Prada Candy was particularly striking. Most perfumers speak in hushed tones about using benzoin sparingly, yet here’s a master perfumer essentially making it the star. It challenges conventional wisdom about restraint in perfumery and shows how technical innovation can create commercial success—”sheer poetry for the nose” indeed.
    I’m also intrigued by Mandy’s comment about having to “restrain herself” from using benzoin because it’s “such a good friend to other essences.” This speaks to benzoin’s almost magical ability to enhance rather than dominate—a quality that seems perfectly suited to the unexpected earthiness of Cepes and Tuberose, where benzoin likely transforms what could be jarring contrasts into harmonious complexity.
    Living in the Netherlands, I’d love to experience firsthand how 17% benzoin transforms this unusual pairing into olfactory poetry.

  • Andrii says:

    Benzoin has a rich history, used in China as early as the 7th century BCE and valued both for its therapeutic and spiritual properties. I’m particularly drawn to its deep cultural significance and the way it’s been used in rituals to purify spaces and attract positive energy. What fascinates me most is its unique scent profile—sweet and vanilla-like with warm, balsamic, and slightly spicy notes—which adds a complex, evolving character to perfumes.
    Bucharest, Romania

  • yada.yada.yada89 says:

    Benzoin and Shalimar, it is a wonderful, perfect fragrance. Who knows what it would be if they had not used Benzoin or used a different variety. I’m in Texas.

  • genmartini says:

    I’m following a dream and studying perfumery (at 4160 Tuesdays School) and so, the part about benzoin being appreciated for its ability to harmonize the various elements within complex formulations, as an olfactive “bridge,” was noteworthy to me. I have a couple of beautiful samples I got from Sarah McCartney, and they are favourite in my scent kit, along with my labdanum. I adore resins and am currently growing boswellia sacra trees, they are 2.5 years old and doing well.
    Also, the respiratory part stood out, as I’m currently recovering from pneumonia.
    I’m a big fan of Mandy Aftel, and would love to have this treasure of a perfume. Thanks for the chance! BC, Canada.

  • Regis Monkton says:

    I like benzoin. Darren’s article is helpful to understanding the use of benzoin in perfumery and some history of human’s relationship with benzoin. I would really like to try a fragrance from Mandy Aftel. I live in the USA.

  • absurdnose says:

    I love learning about tree resins. I’m always blown away at what the vast range of uses they have within perfume and throughout history. It always seems as though benzoin is underrated. The unsung hero of amber compositions! I was lucky enough to visit Mandy Aftel’s museum of scent last year and would love to see how it blends with Cepes. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • psebi101 says:

    What really struck me was how benzoin isn’t just an ingredient—it’s like a quiet storyteller in perfume. The way the article describes it as ‘humming’ rather than shouting made me think of those subtle, comforting scents that don’t hit you all at once but slowly pull you in. I love the idea of it being a ‘living material,’ changing and deepening over time, almost like it has its own heartbeat. It’s fascinating how something so ancient can feel so intimate, like a secret warmth wrapped in vanilla and spice.
    Thanks for the insightful description! I’m in the EU.