Bengale Rouge by Papillon via Papillon Artisan Perfumes from Liz Moore’s FaceBook page©
‘Nenni!’ said the Cat. ‘I am the Cat who walks by himself, and all places are alike to me. I will not come.’ ~ excerpt from Rudyard Kipling’s Just So Stories, The Cat That Walked By Himself
Kipling’s The Cat That Walked By Himself (drawn by Kipling)
Ah. The Cat. I am conditioned, through childhood association – to go beyond the ubiquitous ‘Tyger Tyger burning bright’ William Blake poem-as-metaphor when contemplating perfumer Liz Moores’ latest fragrant release, Bengale Rouge by Papillon Perfumes (Please understand that I clearly venerate Blake beyond all reason.).
William Blake’s Tyger
It’s been two years since her last perfume (Dryad, I adored it) which I felt privileged to review – and well worth the wait, as I’m smitten from the first sniff of this one.
Liz Moores’ Crazy Bengale via Facebook©
Liz’s inspiration originates from her beautiful Bengal cats. They are clever, playful, independent and very crafty (and as you can see here, also a bit mad!); that’s where the Kipling comes in – the very First Cat who endears himself to the mistress of the cave through cunning but will never permit himself to be fully domesticated (unlike the horse, cow and dog in this marvelous tale). Bengale Rouge is a bit like that: classically beautiful and utterly suited to that willful spirit within us lurking just beneath the surface. It’s warm, sensual, kittenish-with-claws and a bit wild.
Opium ad, Helmut Newton/Jerry Hall
You will doubtless read many reviews because frankly, Bengale Rouge by Papillon Perfumes merits it. I believe that it’s one of 2019’s best fragrance releases. Let us address the elephant in the room from the get-go: much will be made of its exoticism (since the term “oriental” has now become fraught with contention), its perceived homage to great Guerlains: Shalimar, Habit Rouge, Jicky; some suggest Opium into the mix.
Let me put it thus: the way they used to smell. The fact is, Liz Moores has created a nouveau-vintage gem with IFRA-acceptable materials of exceptional quality. If the note listing is anywhere near accurate, she’s utilized the finest money can buy and it shows. Does that classify Bengale Rouge by Papillon Perfumes as a dated fragrance? It’s all in the nose of the beholder: voluptuous resinous, base-intense perfumes are as adored as they ever were – by introverts (some posit that introverts are greatly comforted by this genre) and extroverts alike. We live in a culture that watches its back at every turn, where our actions and self-expression are minutely monitored whether we acknowledge it or not. A wee touch of disinhibition, of opulent consolation is most certainly a respite. And so we welcome Bengale Rouge with open arms.
Julian of Norwich (patron saint of cats!) by Nancy Matthias©
We will step back from comparisons entirely and inhale deeply. Ahhhhhhh. Having a “Julian of Norwich moment”: “All shall be well, and all shall be well and all manner of thing shall be well” (Julian of Norwich just happens to be the patron saint of cats, felicitously. Serendipitous that I smell, associate, then realize the connection.). Anointing oneself with a sacred/profane perfume proffers talismanic effect; nothing ill can befall you, cloaked as you are in the depths which venerable wood, oakmoss from a primaeval glade, labdanum and ancient resins provide. The radiance of sweet myrrh (opoponax) and benzoin are enticingly spicy; do they exist to tempt you, elevate you, or perhaps a bit of each? You might think that the addition of honey and vanilla would render Bengale Rouge extremely sweet – but they don’t, surprisingly. Instead, they illuminate several facets: the vanilla/wood/spice thread weaves in and out with sandalwood, tonka and benzoin. Honey contributes subtle animalics which emphasize labdanum’s leatheriness. Liz takes full-bodied, beloved Turkish rose, precious creamy orris and spins an aromatic web around them – rose, the fragrance of saints and sinners. Orris always feels celestial to my nose, even though its origins are earthbound and rhizomal; it is instinctively at home in rose’s company. Well-being assumes many forms, that shape-shifter; that which seduces may also soothe.
Evelyn De Morgan Angel with Serpent Trivium Art-History
Bengale Rouge by Papillon Perfumes is made to be worn on the flesh where it rightfully belongs: equally at home in sanctuary or seraglio. I suspect that pre-Raphaelite painter Evelyn De Morgan must have infiltrated Liz Moores’ being, knowingly or otherwise. So it is when legend manifests itself on a material plane.
Notes: Turkish rose, Indian sandalwood, orris butter, labdanum, oakmoss, tonka, honey, vanilla, benzoin, sweet myrrh (opoponax)
Sample sweetly provided by Ann of Indigo Perfumery – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
~ Art Direction: Ida Meister with Papillon Artisan Perfumes and Liz Moores photos
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Detail of Bengale Rouge by Papillon Perfumes
Thanks to the largesse of Indigo Perfumery, we have a 50 ml bottle of Bengale Rouge by Papillon Perfumes for one registered reader in the USA ONLY. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Ida’s review of Bengale Rouge by Papillon Perfumes. Do you have a favorite Papillon fragrance? Draw closes 8/24/2019
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