Atelier Materi Ambre Papier (Céline Perdriel) 2024 + Smoldering Amber Giveaway

Ambre Papier Extrait Atelier Matieri

Atelier Materi Ambre Papier courtesy of the brand

2024: Was it The Year of Extraits? Over the past year there has been a decided trend towards amplified variants of existing fragrances, including the creation of new ones fitting this scent category – a distinct sense that the perfume-adoring public craved more of everything. Fragrances needed to be stronger, last longer, and to deliver ‘more bang for the buck’ which customers demanded. With the exception of the rarer, more ephemeral perfumes – the lion’s share of those I smelt fell into this category. This is neither criticism, praise, nor opinion; it is observation. Perhaps as perfume pricing inflates, it is to be expected that those who continue to purchase insist upon increased tenacity and sillage, all things considered.

Perfumer Celine Pedriel and Veronique Le Bihan of Atelier Materi

(L) Perfumer Celine Pedriel (Cosmo International) and Creative Director and founder Veronique Bihan

To this end, brands are releasing potent, concentrated fragrances – and they are very popular. Atelier Materi is amongst their number, and Ambre Papier is a stunning example of this trend. It is unusual in that it is a 100% natural, organic parfum – one which possesses a singularly tenacious longevity and a considerable trail. As most of us are aware, it doesn’t often happen that a completely botanical fragrance will linger all day, and then some – nor do we expect it to. This makes Atelier Materi Ambre Papier an aromatic anomaly.

smoky perfumes

Pixabay

If I were to choose a single word to describe Ambre Papier, it would be smoldering. Like a latent ember which lies in wait, this extrait sizzles and pops in anticipation: it murmurs of incendiary intention. The fragrance commences with a spicy floralcy of piquant black pepper and a jolt of pimento berry – otherwise known as the kitchen staple allspice. A juicy sweet/tart, fleeting wisp of red mandarin contributes interest and complements jasmine, our only true floral note here. These are the exceptions, because everything else simmers in readiness. Its prevalent smoky, leathery facets are expressed via maté, saffron, and vetiver; they tend to dominate the extrait. Sweet balsamic tones modulate, assuming the form of Siam benzoin and heavenly tonka; arid myrrh introduces a delicate, measured bitterness, preventing the composition as a whole from waxing either too sweet or unduly fiery.

 Atelier Materi Ambre Papier

@ateliermateri

Atelier Materi Ambre Papier will likely provide a deep sense of hygge during these wintry months; it clings affectionately to scarves, hats, gloves, sweaters alike. If sprayed upon the hair it will make its presence known even after a shampoo. Ambre Papier differs from other botanical perfumes in that there is very little development over time: what you smell initially effectively continues until the fragrance’s eventual denouement. It is consistent from beginning to end, and those in your scented orbit will certainly appreciate its comforting presence. I look forward to the brand’s evolution in the coming year.

Notes: Madagascar black pepper essence, Jamaican pimento extract (allspice), Italian red mandarin, jasmine absolute, myrrh essence, Brazilian maté extract, saffron extract, Siam benzoin resin, Haitian vetiver essence, tonka bean absolute

  Sample kindly provided by Indigo Perfumery – many thanks! My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Atelier Matieri Ambre Papier

photo courtesy of Indigo Perfumery

Thanks to the generosity of Indigo Perfumery, we have 50ml Atelier Materi Ambre Papier for one registered reader in the USA. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what sparked your interest in Ida’s article. You must live in the USA. Draw closes 1/23/2025

Contributor Oli Marlow awarded Atelier Materi Ambre Papier one of his top 10 perfumes 2024

Read Ida’s reviews of Rose Ardoise, Iris Ebene and Nicoleta’s review of Santal Blond.

Watch Steven’s video best chocolate perfumes of all time which included Cacao Porcelana here

Bois d’Ambrette was included in our highly curated Make it Musk Jovoy box by former contributor Cristian Marianciuc here

Atelier Materi to buy or test at Indigo Perfumery

Available at Atelier Materi website  Jovoy Paris Luckyscent

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @indigoperfumery @idameister @ateliermateri @celine.perdriel.perfumer

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7 comments

  • Ramses Perez says:

    Atelier Materi in my opinion is finally getting their moment in the spotlight and I’m glad these 3 new extraits launched together are contributing. I haven’t had the chance yet to try them but the bottles do reflect what’s on the inside: a highly concentrated fragrance in comparison to their other references. Ambre Papier (Paper amber) seems to be a super intense ambery fragrance contrary to what the name may imply. Full of naturals ingredients, it is indeed an amazing feat for it to linger and last all day long. Ambery scents are within my top 3 favorite categories so I can only aspire to get my nose on this one soon and swoon over it. I’m located in the USA.

  • Donna Murphy-Carosi says:

    I like Ida’s description that Ambre Papier is a natural, organic perfume that is smoldering… with little development over time. Sounds wonderful!
    USA

  • Any time I hear notes of smoke, resin, and leather I’m interested in the fragrance! Especially if it is an extrait concentration. This sounds right up my alley. I’m in the USA

  • I sampled most of the older releases from this brand and they are consistently good. I only only one – Cacao Porcelana. I’m very excited to try this new release. I’m intrigued because of the smoky pepper and pimento facets. I’m interested in seeing how that plays jasmine. I also like saffron and leathery fragrances so Ambre Papier seems like something that I would like a lot. I’m from Illinois US.

  • I am a massive sucker for smoky amber and benzoin-heavy fragrances, so seeing the word “smoldering” instantly piqued my interest in this article. Ambre Papier sounds incredible, I love a fragrance that leaves a trail and makes me feel like a walking incense stick! Regardless of the outcome of the drawing, I will absolutely be picking up a sample! I live in the USA.

  • I rather enjoy warm, spicy, amber perfumes. Perfect for days of like today, first snow of the 2025, when you just want something warm and comforting. I’ve tried some of Atelier Materi samples and rather enjoy Iris Ebene. Would be interested in trying there new Extrats.

  • This fragrance sounds unique. The fact that is natural is one of those unique things. Then, the eternal longevity of it even though it is natural. I also find it interesting how it is pretty much linear from opening to drydown. Linear is not bad here though, as this fragrance sounds complex through its richness and heavy notes. USA.