Atelier Materi Ambre Papier (Céline Perdriel) 2024 + Smoldering Amber Giveaway

Ambre Papier Extrait Atelier Matieri

Atelier Materi Ambre Papier courtesy of the brand

2024: Was it The Year of Extraits? Over the past year there has been a decided trend towards amplified variants of existing fragrances, including the creation of new ones fitting this scent category – a distinct sense that the perfume-adoring public craved more of everything. Fragrances needed to be stronger, last longer, and to deliver ‘more bang for the buck’ which customers demanded. With the exception of the rarer, more ephemeral perfumes – the lion’s share of those I smelt fell into this category. This is neither criticism, praise, nor opinion; it is observation. Perhaps as perfume pricing inflates, it is to be expected that those who continue to purchase insist upon increased tenacity and sillage, all things considered.

Perfumer Celine Pedriel and Veronique Le Bihan of Atelier Materi

(L) Perfumer Celine Pedriel (Cosmo International) and Creative Director and founder Veronique Bihan

To this end, brands are releasing potent, concentrated fragrances – and they are very popular. Atelier Materi is amongst their number, and Ambre Papier is a stunning example of this trend. It is unusual in that it is a 100% natural, organic parfum – one which possesses a singularly tenacious longevity and a considerable trail. As most of us are aware, it doesn’t often happen that a completely botanical fragrance will linger all day, and then some – nor do we expect it to. This makes Atelier Materi Ambre Papier an aromatic anomaly.

smoky perfumes

Pixabay

If I were to choose a single word to describe Ambre Papier, it would be smoldering. Like a latent ember which lies in wait, this extrait sizzles and pops in anticipation: it murmurs of incendiary intention. The fragrance commences with a spicy floralcy of piquant black pepper and a jolt of pimento berry – otherwise known as the kitchen staple allspice. A juicy sweet/tart, fleeting wisp of red mandarin contributes interest and complements jasmine, our only true floral note here. These are the exceptions, because everything else simmers in readiness. Its prevalent smoky, leathery facets are expressed via maté, saffron, and vetiver; they tend to dominate the extrait. Sweet balsamic tones modulate, assuming the form of Siam benzoin and heavenly tonka; arid myrrh introduces a delicate, measured bitterness, preventing the composition as a whole from waxing either too sweet or unduly fiery.

 Atelier Materi Ambre Papier

@ateliermateri

Atelier Materi Ambre Papier will likely provide a deep sense of hygge during these wintry months; it clings affectionately to scarves, hats, gloves, sweaters alike. If sprayed upon the hair it will make its presence known even after a shampoo. Ambre Papier differs from other botanical perfumes in that there is very little development over time: what you smell initially effectively continues until the fragrance’s eventual denouement. It is consistent from beginning to end, and those in your scented orbit will certainly appreciate its comforting presence. I look forward to the brand’s evolution in the coming year.

Notes: Madagascar black pepper essence, Jamaican pimento extract (allspice), Italian red mandarin, jasmine absolute, myrrh essence, Brazilian maté extract, saffron extract, Siam benzoin resin, Haitian vetiver essence, tonka bean absolute

  Sample kindly provided by Indigo Perfumery – many thanks! My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Atelier Matieri Ambre Papier

photo courtesy of Indigo Perfumery

Thanks to the generosity of Indigo Perfumery, we have 50ml Atelier Materi Ambre Papier for one registered reader in the USA. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what sparked your interest in Ida’s article. You must live in the USA. Draw closes 1/23/2025

Contributor Oli Marlow awarded Atelier Materi Ambre Papier one of his top 10 perfumes 2024

Read Ida’s reviews of Rose Ardoise, Iris Ebene and Nicoleta’s review of Santal Blond.

Watch Steven’s video best chocolate perfumes of all time which included Cacao Porcelana here

Bois d’Ambrette was included in our highly curated Make it Musk Jovoy box by former contributor Cristian Marianciuc here

Atelier Materi to buy or test at Indigo Perfumery

Available at Atelier Materi website  Jovoy Paris Luckyscent

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @indigoperfumery @idameister @ateliermateri @celine.perdriel.perfumer

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39 comments

  • Ramses Perez says:

    Atelier Materi in my opinion is finally getting their moment in the spotlight and I’m glad these 3 new extraits launched together are contributing. I haven’t had the chance yet to try them but the bottles do reflect what’s on the inside: a highly concentrated fragrance in comparison to their other references. Ambre Papier (Paper amber) seems to be a super intense ambery fragrance contrary to what the name may imply. Full of naturals ingredients, it is indeed an amazing feat for it to linger and last all day long. Ambery scents are within my top 3 favorite categories so I can only aspire to get my nose on this one soon and swoon over it. I’m located in the USA.

  • Donna Murphy-Carosi says:

    I like Ida’s description that Ambre Papier is a natural, organic perfume that is smoldering… with little development over time. Sounds wonderful!
    USA

  • Any time I hear notes of smoke, resin, and leather I’m interested in the fragrance! Especially if it is an extrait concentration. This sounds right up my alley. I’m in the USA

  • I sampled most of the older releases from this brand and they are consistently good. I only only one – Cacao Porcelana. I’m very excited to try this new release. I’m intrigued because of the smoky pepper and pimento facets. I’m interested in seeing how that plays jasmine. I also like saffron and leathery fragrances so Ambre Papier seems like something that I would like a lot. I’m from Illinois US.

  • I am a massive sucker for smoky amber and benzoin-heavy fragrances, so seeing the word “smoldering” instantly piqued my interest in this article. Ambre Papier sounds incredible, I love a fragrance that leaves a trail and makes me feel like a walking incense stick! Regardless of the outcome of the drawing, I will absolutely be picking up a sample! I live in the USA.

  • I rather enjoy warm, spicy, amber perfumes. Perfect for days of like today, first snow of the 2025, when you just want something warm and comforting. I’ve tried some of Atelier Materi samples and rather enjoy Iris Ebene. Would be interested in trying there new Extrats.

  • This fragrance sounds unique. The fact that is natural is one of those unique things. Then, the eternal longevity of it even though it is natural. I also find it interesting how it is pretty much linear from opening to drydown. Linear is not bad here though, as this fragrance sounds complex through its richness and heavy notes. USA.

  • When i think of natural perfume I don’t think of longevity and from Ida’s review of Atelier Matieri Ambre Papier it really lasts and really like the smolder reference

    I saw the entire collection and will sample this and burgundy oud.
    I do live in the USA

  • Thank you Ida. I’m guilty of preferring fragrances that last, they don’t even have to be strong. I had to look up the meaning of hygge so one new word learnt for 2025 🙂 Atelier Materi Ambre Papier sounds awesome as I’m quite partial to smoky fragrances. I’m in USA

  • I was able to sample older fragrances from Atelier Materi. I do like the new look of bottles. Always excited with extraits. Ambre Papier sounds perfect for Wintertime. Love the one word “smoldering” says alot. I do enjoy Cacao Porcelana. Thank you for this chance USA

  • Eris.can.swatch.kaos says:

    As a fan of the extrait boom mentioned, I do desperately want my fragrance to last and project. There is a time and place for the “skin scent”, but I am mostly looking for near beasts. Ambre Papier is one whose notes I can get behind and whose commanding presence screams “look at me”. Yes, please. I live in Oregon.

  • I love wearing a strong fragrance but sometimes less is more especially when sharing a small office space : (. Most smokey fragrances I’ve tried were linear. I am interested in using more natural fragrances and having something with vetiver, amber and isn’t over powered by smokiness sounds appealing. Seattle

  • Now this one sounds like it’s right up my alley. Once Ida chose the term “smoldering” to describe it, I was fully intrigued. Reading further only confirmed my desire for this fragrance. I certainly have a “thing” for smoky fragrances. They were, after all, my first forays into niche. Aaron Terence Hughes’ Smoulder, Kerosene Blackmail, and 5:55 Black Leather Jesus were among the very first niche perfumes I sampled 4-5 years ago, and each still rank well within my top 10 of my collection. Ambre Papier sounds as if it would fit nicely among them, while offering its own distinct qualities. I’m most interested in the use of myrrh where many of my others use frankincense, as well as the peppery and wintry hues of allspice. It sounds like a pure delight for the record-breaking cold we’ve been experiencing this season. Best of luck to all. I live in NC, USA.

  • PerfumesforLife says:

    As a fan of amber I am always in search for new “smoldering” offerings and this seems like one of them. I love heavy extraits in general and the description here with pepper/berry/jasmine then smokey saffron vetiver amber seems like the ultimate combination for an extrait. I would love to try it.

    USA

  • I am not familiar with brand or the scent, but Atelier Materi Ambre Papier sounds like a scent that i would love. I love the idea of a smoldering scent. Love leather notes, love amber and can’t wait to smell this scent.
    Hope to win.
    Oklahoma USA

  • Wow, this sounds like a fantastic fragrance. Amber is one of my favorite notes in perfumery. The article beautifully describes what appears to be a great fragrance.
    If i win, i am in the US.

  • Danu Erce Seith-Fyr says:

    Not eligible, I live in Europe. I cannot agree more with Ids beautiful expression of this extrait, in fact the whole collection of Atelier Materi Extraits are exceptional. I love all of them.

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    I really love a smoky note in the winter. I have also noticed the trend of extraits and your theory of customers wanting more bang for their buck is an interesting one. I am unfamiliar with this house and to be honest, have not tried many natural fragrances. I’m interested to learn that this extrait lasts a long time. The notes sound so comforting. Thank you for the draw, from the US.

  • I certainly would like to wear something smoldering in this frigid winter weather. Amber Papier sounds warm with a complement of spices and some zingy citrus and floral. The smoky, leathery base with balsamic sweetness and bitterness from the myrrh sounds comforting and cozy. Amazed that this long lasting extrait is completely natural botanicals. Md, USA.

  • Sherin Thomas says:

    I’m very excited to try this new release. I’m intrigued because of the smoky pepper and pimento facets. I’m interested in seeing how that plays jasmine

  • Mark Keating says:

    “Smoldering, sizzle, pops”
    Ida paints the perfect picture of what a spicy floral could be. Add the juicy sweet tart and I cannot wait to try this.
    I have enjoyed others form this house and believe this will be another gem.

  • I’m always looking out for cozy, warm scents for the winter, and these notes sound yummy. I did not know that allspice is also the pimento berry, I learn new things all the time on CFB! It’s interesting that Atelier Materi has managed to create such a powerful Extrait. I would love to experience this one. Thank you for the lovely review ands the generous draw. I’m in the us

  • I’ve noticed perfume formats can wear very differently, regardless of classification, but dark, cool-weather fragrances are particularly well suited to high proofs. Atelier Materi Ambre Papier seems to fit that mold. Interesting that this botanical perfume has such tenacity and throw, but I’m also intrigued by its simmering quality, its unusual lack of progression throughout the wear, and its delicate balance between sweetness, bitterness, and smoky leather. Terrific review.

    I’m in the USA.

  • It’s definitely interesting they Ambre Papier is a 100% natural organic perfume. Especislly with the longevity described. I love the sounds of the resins especially, all of them but especially benzoin. This release was one i wanted to try as soon as I heard about it and I still would love to. Thanks for the generous draw, from the US.

  • I have been wanting to try this one since it was released!!! And their extraits as well. This sounds like my kind of fragrance. I’m especially keen to try to spot the Brazilian Mate and the Jamaican Allspice. All of it sounds divine. The florals, myrrh, benzoin and vetiver etc. I would be so grateful to win this. I am located in the USA

  • AromaDulce73 says:

    Love the notes in this fragrance. A “smoldering” fragrance is exactly what I need in my collection.

    Los Angeles Ca. USA

  • Ambre Papier sounds truly intriguing. I loved in the review that attention was drawn, and rightfully so to it being a 100% natural/botanical fragrance. I have had limited exposure to this trend although it is definitely on the rise with more fragrance houses being created around this concept and many of the largest houses dipping their toes in this new frontier. The descriptor of smoldering evokes our sense on multiple levels, visual, auditory and of course the olfactory. This is one I definitely need to try!! Thanks for the review!! I live in Illinois.

  • Sherin Thomas says:

    I haven’t had the chance yet to try them but the bottles do reflect what’s on the inside: a highly concentrated fragrance in comparison to their other references. From PA,USA

  • I recently got a bottle of Cedre Figalia and fell completely in love, leaving me wanting to know more about Atelier Materi. An organic and natural perfume is definitely something that interests me and Ambre Papier definitely becomes intriguing due to its composition and characteristics. It would be great to be able to try it.
    From California USA

  • foreverscents says:

    I like extraits because my skin is like a sponge, absorbing even the most powerhouse fragrances right up. Ambre Papier certainly does sound smoldering, and smoldering is how I like to do things. The black pepper, allspice, jasmine, and vetiver notes are all notes I would like to cling affectionately to me.
    I live in the USA.

  • Reading the review I’m pretty sure the phantosmia I’m conjuring in my head is nowhere near the real thing – I’d absolutely like to try it. Thank you for the chance!
    USA

  • wallygator88 says:

    Ambre Papier is the scent of late evenings and hushed secrets. It’s not a boisterous, attention-seeking amber; instead, it’s a quiet warmth that unfolds on the skin. That opening of milky incense is pure comfort, like slipping into a worn sweater. As it dries down, the cedarwood and the hint of tobacco create a more textured feeling. It recalls the sensation of curling up with an old book, a glass of something aged nearby, with a woody base note grounded by slight sweetness, yet not being overwhelming, creating space for quiet reflection. There’s a refined simplicity in the interplay of those base notes. It doesn’t project hugely, making the experience more personal, as if a gentle hum rather than an operatic symphony. On cold evenings this fragrance truly blossoms on the skin, with the smooth scent taking hold and showcasing all its beauty. The various notes interact perfectly to create a relaxing and comforting experience. It’s not a flashy statement, but a subtle invitation to draw closer and share something intimate. It becomes a comforting signature scent, capable of bringing with it pleasant emotions.

  • I’m familiar with all Atelier Materi fragrances , including the 3 new extrait releases , well made , interesting mix of classic and contemporary kind of brand. It’s interesting that I discovered the brand thanks to Ida Meister review of Cuir D’Iris ~4.5 years ago, time flies fast…too fast. If I have to rate my favorite Atelier Materi fragrances:
    1. Cacao Porcelana
    2. Burgundy Oud / Santal Blond
    3. Ambre Papier
    My opinion of Ambre Papier is not quite the same in comparison to what Ida is getting. To me the spices are in the background, jasmine and smoky aspects i don’t get at all and the citruses are present only in the opening. What i do get is quality warm leather coming from the saffron, lots of resins, tonka and I also get Bourbon vanilla. Ambre Papier is a beautiful fragrance composed by Celine Perdiel, and like Ida said it would a deep sense of hygge during the cold weather months.
    All profiles I already follow, @waltherp99bg
    Thanks a lot
    USA

  • Contrast of skin scents and bold, statement making extrait fragrances i actually like , different situations require different types of scents i believe.
    A lot new leather , tonka and balsamic fragrances , including niche , nowadays are nothing more than a washed up versions of already existing once on the market, with just a little bit of twist , but Ambre Papier is built from the ground up.
    The allspice , smoky and leather parts is what draws me to the new Atelier Materi fragrance . Celine Pedriel made Ambre Papier for people who know what they like , and take no “NO” for an answer.
    Exciting giveaway, USA
    Regards

  • No doubt perfumery often resembles fashion, in both cases some trends come and go, others are here to stay. Gourmands , flankers , leathers and powerful extraits will be here for a very long time.
    Atelier Materi I’ve sampled because of all the positive reviews on Cafleurebon. The two that stood out to me are Cacao Porcelana and Santal Complet . The complex , green , slightly smoky , classy , and quite versatile Santal Complet i end up buying.
    Poetic description of multifaceted fragrance , I really like Ida Meister review of Ambre Papier.
    There’s a sense of harmony in Ambre Papier . I like the saffron , tonka , the delicate sweetness , and the overall sophisticated aroma of the fragrance . I can wear it on multiple occasions , from working with clients at the tailor store, to casual walk in the park.
    Thank you Ida Meister, Indigo Perfumery
    USA

  • “Perhaps as perfume pricing inflates, it is to be expected that those who continue to purchase insist upon increased tenacity and sillage, all things considered.”

    That’s a great point actually, and exactly how I feel about the whole Extrait trend.
    With so many new houses , market is overcrowded. I admire brands like Atelier Materi , who follow their own path , and don’t want to step in someone else’s shoes. Presentation made me say “Wow” . The cap looks like it’s made of concrete , maybe it is actually.
    After reading Ida Meister article , I saw myself in a cabin, in the morning , with a book in my hands, after some passionate skin-on-skin experiences a few hours earlier.
    I find the whole Ambre Papier idea inviting , cozy, and at the same time super sexy.
    Thanks for the draw
    USA

  • Atelier Materi Ambre Papier sounds like such a unique fragrance! I do love natural fragrances for their ability to change over time, but the fact that Ambre Papier bucks this trend is very interesting. Perhaps due to the large amount of essences and absolutes that function as base notes and fixatives? Either way, the idea that it smoulders sounds perfect for the crazy cold weather that’s been stuck around here lately and I’d love the opportunity to try this fragrance!
    Best wishes from the US!