Atelier Materi Ambre Papier courtesy of the brand
2024: Was it The Year of Extraits? Over the past year there has been a decided trend towards amplified variants of existing fragrances, including the creation of new ones fitting this scent category – a distinct sense that the perfume-adoring public craved more of everything. Fragrances needed to be stronger, last longer, and to deliver ‘more bang for the buck’ which customers demanded. With the exception of the rarer, more ephemeral perfumes – the lion’s share of those I smelt fell into this category. This is neither criticism, praise, nor opinion; it is observation. Perhaps as perfume pricing inflates, it is to be expected that those who continue to purchase insist upon increased tenacity and sillage, all things considered.
(L) Perfumer Celine Pedriel (Cosmo International) and Creative Director and founder Veronique Bihan
To this end, brands are releasing potent, concentrated fragrances – and they are very popular. Atelier Materi is amongst their number, and Ambre Papier is a stunning example of this trend. It is unusual in that it is a 100% natural, organic parfum – one which possesses a singularly tenacious longevity and a considerable trail. As most of us are aware, it doesn’t often happen that a completely botanical fragrance will linger all day, and then some – nor do we expect it to. This makes Atelier Materi Ambre Papier an aromatic anomaly.
Pixabay
If I were to choose a single word to describe Ambre Papier, it would be smoldering. Like a latent ember which lies in wait, this extrait sizzles and pops in anticipation: it murmurs of incendiary intention. The fragrance commences with a spicy floralcy of piquant black pepper and a jolt of pimento berry – otherwise known as the kitchen staple allspice. A juicy sweet/tart, fleeting wisp of red mandarin contributes interest and complements jasmine, our only true floral note here. These are the exceptions, because everything else simmers in readiness. Its prevalent smoky, leathery facets are expressed via maté, saffron, and vetiver; they tend to dominate the extrait. Sweet balsamic tones modulate, assuming the form of Siam benzoin and heavenly tonka; arid myrrh introduces a delicate, measured bitterness, preventing the composition as a whole from waxing either too sweet or unduly fiery.
Atelier Materi Ambre Papier will likely provide a deep sense of hygge during these wintry months; it clings affectionately to scarves, hats, gloves, sweaters alike. If sprayed upon the hair it will make its presence known even after a shampoo. Ambre Papier differs from other botanical perfumes in that there is very little development over time: what you smell initially effectively continues until the fragrance’s eventual denouement. It is consistent from beginning to end, and those in your scented orbit will certainly appreciate its comforting presence. I look forward to the brand’s evolution in the coming year.
Notes: Madagascar black pepper essence, Jamaican pimento extract (allspice), Italian red mandarin, jasmine absolute, myrrh essence, Brazilian maté extract, saffron extract, Siam benzoin resin, Haitian vetiver essence, tonka bean absolute
Sample kindly provided by Indigo Perfumery – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
photo courtesy of Indigo Perfumery
Thanks to the generosity of Indigo Perfumery, we have 50ml Atelier Materi Ambre Papier for one registered reader in the USA. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what sparked your interest in Ida’s article. You must live in the USA. Draw closes 1/23/2025
Contributor Oli Marlow awarded Atelier Materi Ambre Papier one of his top 10 perfumes 2024
Read Ida’s reviews of Rose Ardoise, Iris Ebene and Nicoleta’s review of Santal Blond.
Watch Steven’s video best chocolate perfumes of all time which included Cacao Porcelana here
Bois d’Ambrette was included in our highly curated Make it Musk Jovoy box by former contributor Cristian Marianciuc here
Atelier Materi to buy or test at Indigo Perfumery
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