aroma M Geisha Botan (Maria McElroy) 2018 ~New Perfume Review:+ Edo Era “King of Flowers” Draw

Maria McElroy of aroma M©

Spoiler alert: I have smelt every fragrance which perfumer Maria McElroy has ever released, and this is by far my favorite. I can’t be bought, sold, coerced, cajoled, and I’m not remunerated for my work – as is the case with all writers here at ÇaFleureBon. If I tell you that Maria  McElroy sent me a ‘little something to sniff’ last month and that I immediately fell into olfactory paroxysms, it must be Love. Not conditional affection – the sort where something is fascinating, creative or novel but you wouldn’t end up wearing it very often. Her new perfume oil and eau de parfum aroma M Geisha Botan (Japanese for peony) are so beautiful that they make you ache: this is Wearable Olfactory Art. You want to immerse yourself in it – meditative, soothing, healing-through-beauty. 

 aroma M Geisha Botan Peony Still Life by The Silver Fox© 

Ms. McElroy took her time developing Geisha Botan; you can smell it. Endeavoring to conjure Japan’s (and most of Asia’s) lengthy love affair with the peony is a daunting undertaking which demands the finest quality materials and an exquisite sense of balance and proportion. Those familiar with aroma M may be aware that Maria moved to Tokyo in the 1980s and has remained besotted with its culture, art, aesthetics (she has an art background), cuisine (her husband is a Japanese chef – literally). When she visited Ueno Park’s 17th century Toshogu Shrine and happened upon pink peonies in full bloom she was captivated by their color, form and scent. Further exploration revealed that they were the national flower of China, celebrated over the centuries in decorative arts, literature, textiles, tapestries, paintings.

The Hundred Edo Views etching from 1855  via flickr

Every part of the plant is believed to possess medicinal value and so they were cultivated in Imperial gardens, thus earning the title “The King of Flowers”. Japan soon followed suit in its admiration: peonies were depicted in the arts as early as the Edo period (1615-1868), cultivated in gardens and in irezumi, the elaborate art of tattooing which flourished at that time (and has not abated). Maria refers to aroma M Botan in the context of ‘invisible irezumi’ – a tantalizing concept. 

 aroma M Geisha Botan Pivoines faneés IV by The Silver Fox© 

First sniff reveals voluptuous Moroccan rose (from Maria’s recent visits there) and buttery sandalwood flanked by a pair of cordon bleu vanilla sentinels. I feel peony implied, because scent profiles tend to overlap (rose is likely the more complex, with hundreds of components). The rose/sandalwood marriage has been experienced previously in Geisha Nobara-Cha, (one of my favorites) which boasts an ambery foundation, easy to love and wear. aroma M Botan varies in both the choice of rose, addition of varied woods, and its mossy, musky base which is subtle and undeniably seductive. Botan isn’t linear in the least; on the skin it develops while the fragrant characters interact, change places, meander where they will. It’s one of the more sensuous aromatic journeys I’ve taken in months.

 aroma M Geisha Botan Pivoines The Silver Fox© ​

I’ve been on tenterhooks for a month awaiting production, availability. I want a bottle badly and my husband is eager to oblige me, as he finds it swoony; I’m hoping it will be ready for our 35thwedding anniversary at the end of August. I probably won’t want to wear much else for a good long while… Notes: peony, Moroccan rosesandalwood, Moroccan vanilla, Bourbon vanillawoods, lichen, oakmoss, musk

Samples generously provided by Maria McElroy – many thanks! My nose is my own…

Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

~ Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief who is grateful to use the stunning photography of Alex Musgrave Photography© in this review

Thanks to Maria we have a draw for a sample each of aroma M Geisha Botan oil and EDP for one registered reader in the USA. To be eligible please leave a comment about what appealed to you about Ida’s review of aroma M Geisha Botan. Draw closes 8/13/2018. 

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our Blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume. 

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25 comments

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    This is one I look forward to experiencing as well. Peony is so very lovely and classic. I enjoy burying my face in them every spring–after the ants who also adore them are made to take leave! The notes supporting the star of this fragrance sound as if they will do well complementing the theme. I have no peony-based fragrance in my current line-up to date although I have used up a bottle of L’Occitane’s Peony in the past. So far from this house, I have sampled Pink, Green, and O-Cha. I live in the US and thank you for this draw.

  • The comment about the meandering, slowly changing and revealing its beauty deeply appealed, as did the mention of time and care evident in the construction of this perfume. And, I simply adore rose and sandalwood and peony. Sounds exquisite.

  • Ivan.napoleon says:

    It appeals the whole review and love the notes.
    Vanilla and bourbon Vanilla my fav.
    Id love to win this.
    Miami Florida Thanks

  • ChanteusedesIles says:

    This sounds gorgeous! I was obsessed with rose-peony this spring! I’m not entering as I can’t, but please Maria McElroy bring your perfumes to a Toronto stock list 🙂

  • ooh, Ida describes this so beautifully, one can’t help but want to sniff, and I enjoy sandalwood and all the other notes. in the US, and thank you for the draw!

  • Scented Hound says:

    A very Happy Anniversary to both of you Ida, and I hope that you get your bottle so that your husband gets very swoony from the fragrance (and because you won’t be wearing much else for a good long while!) This special fragrance cannot be anything but beautiful, and with all of the care taken to create it, it must be outstanding. Moroccan Rose, Peony, Oakmoss, woods. I am waving thank you Maria, from California!

  • Swoony, sounds great! I love peonies and haven’t been able to grow any in southern California. Being from Chicago, I grew up with every color in the summer in our yard. Rose-peony has to be fabulous! Thank you for the chance to try.

  • I love, love, love Geisha Noire. It would be fantastic to try other perfumes from this line. This one sounds just amazing. Thank you so much!

  • I love this just house and Ida’s review of this new fragrance just confirms that. ” You want to immerse yourself in it – meditative, soothing, healing-through-beauty.” Peony is a note that I truly love and this sounds divine. Thanks for the draw. My fingers are crossed. I’m in the USA

  • Not looking to be entered into the draw (because peony usually goes wonky on my skin). But I’ve heard good things about Aroma M’s florals and I’ve been wanting to try her Camellia fragrance and Geisha Noire. So many lovely perfume houses, not enough sniff them all. 🙂

  • Ida, this one sounds exquisite! I love peonies! This comment from you sold me on this fragrance and made me a believer: “If I tell you that Maria McElroy sent me a ‘little something to sniff’ last month and that I immediately fell into olfactory paroxysms, it must be Love.” The notes sound amazing as well. Thanks for the draw and I live in the US! 🙂

  • joan mansbach says:

    The peony alone defines beauty. Add the incredible Moroccan rose and the talent of Maria McElroy and I can readily understand the phrase “olfactory paroxysms.” The review conjures a unique fragrance born to be worn and lavished on the body. So ready to experience this luscious new scent. Thank you for the draw…Waiting with baited breath!

  • Wow, if Ida finds it swoony, then my goodness – the notes definitely sound delicious! Also the photography is gorgeous. Have never tried this house and would love to. In US. Thank you for the wonderful draw.

  • Hooray! I’ve been excited about Maria’s next realize for some time now. Well, I like everything about Ida’s reviews, and this one is no exception. “fell into olfactory paroxysms, it must be Love…” Also for Ida to say this is her favorite Aroma M really makes me want to sniff it. I’m a fan of the whole line. I have almost all of the Camellia oils, the Camellia edp, as well as Geisha Noire in edp and oil. Oh, and Geisha Blue, too. Thanks for the draw, and good great luck to Maria with the launch of Botan. Someday when I get back to New York, I want to go to Hoboken to see the studio. I live in the U.S. Thanks again!

  • I’ve been following them on Facebook and have been so excited about this new release. I love peony and I’m so eager to try this new creation. I haven’t ever smelled anything from Aroma M before but I was introduced to this perfume house by Carlos of Brooklyn Fragrance Lover when he reviewed Vanilla Hinoki (which has been on my wishlist forever).

    I live in the USA (Pennsylvania)

  • Ida reviews so many perfumes so if she says this is a must-have I believe her. I own and love Geisha Noire from this line. I live in the US

  • My mother grows peonies in NY, but I can never seem to get there in time for their blooming. I live in CA and grow Cereus blooms which only bloom for 1 night. I would love to have either scent in a bottle! The idea of peony plus Moroccan rose and vanilla sounds wonderful.

  • Happy anniversary to Ida and her husband. I hope Geisha Botan makes an appearance to help you mark the occasion. Every aroma M scent I have tried has smelled wonderful, superbly constructed, true olfactory art. Geisha Vanilla Hinoki is one of my most cherished perfumes. Geisha Botan sounds like an olfactory ode to the peony, I will seek it out for a sniff. Thank you for the review and for the generous draw.

  • I loved the unbridled love and anticipation in the review… while this is normally not the type of scent I gravitate to, the review definitely made me want it too!

  • doveskylark says:

    When I lived in Japan, I used to visit the peony gardens in Kamakura, the old city not far from Tokyo. I loved the lushness of these flowers in full bloom. Vanilla and rose seem so right to represent the fragrance of peonies. I love Aroma M’s Camellia oils.
    I live in the USA.

  • Curious to try it because rose and sandalwood go really well together. Plus it’s a peony scent without being paired with some white florals I’m iffy about, so it might be more wearable for me.
    I’m in the US. Thanks

  • I grow peonies in my yard and love the scent. Sandalwood is a favorite too. The artwork on the packaging is pretty. I’m in Ohio.