J’s image of Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi

Pnoi is the latest release from Angelos Creations Olfactives and for those with a love of vintage perfume you’re in for a treat as Angelos Balamis has taken his love of perfume history and given us Pnoi which blends past and present into a stunning complex yet beautifully wearable perfume. So much so that it’s taken me multiple attempts to find the words for this as I get lost in its elegant movements and forget to take notes on this perfumed journey. Pnoi is something of a contemplative perfume for me, its scent is one of a pleasure to be alive, and it blossoms with a bouquet of nature then slowly because deliciously debauched with a rather sensual powdery leather. Wicked flashes of dreams and desires emerge from the journey Pnoi takes you on, making this a rather special leather chypre.

Angelos of Angelos Creations Olfactives perfumer and street wear icon courtesy of Angelos.

Pnoi violets blossom from fresh bitter greens, it’s like a breath of life exhaled from your skin full of nature’s greenery. Soft blonde woods splashed with round creamy citruses feel like sun light shining down onto this new freshness as a fiery violet bursts from its green shell as soft abstract florals bloom from these new stems of life. Pnoi takes on a refined powdery quality, reminiscent of vintage perfume elegance as if the scent of Après L’Ondee is lingering on a silk scarf once adorned with Jolie Madame. With its classic French perfumery elements, the violet steals your attention, yet a deeper, more contemporary leather undertone simmers beneath, adding a daring twist.

The complete Marquis de Sade and Pauline Réage’s Story of O book covers via wikipedia

There’s something about wearing Pnoi that sparks vivid images of classic erotic literature in my mind. The way its soft floral notes intertwine with rich leather becoming beautifully corrupted makes me think of Anne Desclos’, under the pen name Pauline Réage, Story of O or scenes from the Marquis De Sade’s various tales, it has an old world erotic feel. Pnoi gets lush with florals as it’s its sunny citrus spill over onto suede like jasmines dripping in silky orris butter, as a velvety violet is gentle caressing the petals as if moved by a gentle wind. Lily to the valley’s clean soapy muskiness tries to hide the wonton desires, but it’s betrayed by warm floral spices and mossy dirty hay musks whispering of erogenous zones, as the petals lift up to reveal more. There’s a delicious soft warm spice that reveals some excitement just below the powdery veil of violet as sandalwood rises up to give a firmness in the base. Dark leathery aromas are felt more here as petals darken from hay as you see deeper into the heart of Pnoi.

Sculpture-lampe by Alina Szapocznikow via Wikipedia.

Pnoi’s dry down purrs with a lush Mousse deep Saxe base that’s expertly expanded making it feel opulent and sensual in all the best ways. Mousse de Saxe has this rather carnal feel to it, it’s like a heavy sweet earthy green mossiness that’s fresh and animalic all at once, it’s like a sexual forest floor humming with dark round spices and soft powdery florals all rubbed over smooth dark leather to form this erotic musk. It’s this shift from florals and greens, to a more sensual bodily feel brings to mind the works of post-war artist Alina Szapocznikow. She redefined sculpture as a reflection of memory intertwined with her own physicality. Despite her career lasting less than twenty years, cut short by her untimely death in 1973 at the age of 47, Szapocznikow left a remarkable legacy of daring pieces that draw from Surrealism, Nouveau Réalisme, and Pop art. Her work, particularly ‘Sculpture-lampe XIII,’ boldly explores themes of sexual power dynamics and the human form, almost as if they are emerging from nature in a sensual human-like manner. Her sculptures embody a twisted, erotic beauty; a petit Fleurs du Mal. Just like Pnoi, nature is brimming with sensuality, echoing its erotic blooms and leather undertones.

J’s image of Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi

All these elements and facets are given the royal treatment and expanded beautifully with some delicious materials. Three things I pick up on are Animalis, a classic dirty musk base you’d know from the likes or Kouros, it’s gives the mossiness this kinky unwashed cost us like hair feel with jonquil making it lush. A soft honey infused benzoin is another element that’s gives a soft focus fuzziness and bodily warmth to the composition, the honey gives its a subtle sleekness, like a soft waxy sweat over naked sandalwood flesh, its this aged sandalwood that’s keeping powdery floral feel. Leather is the final element that’s really shines with all the elements amplifying it’s various facets giving it a cosy worn in feel, with the musky waxy moss like its sensual soft nap on the reverse side. Hay and orris whisper of its history of being worn with hints of damp coolness and a softness from where leather has met the body. Letting softly spiced violets haunt the air around you. Pnoi has a beautiful corrupted innocence about it, as its sweeter florals fail at hiding its desires. Pnoi is a perfume lovers dream, its takes you through the history of perfumery, whispers of Guerlain, Balmain and a hint of Chanel’s Cuir de Russie yet what we really get is Angelos, Pnoi is his bright and shining optimism and love of perfumery all packed full of opulence. It makes me feel safe knowing that perfumery is in hands like these.

Notes: Petitgrain Bigaratier, Bergamot Calabria (Crude & FCF), Violet Leaves Absolute Egypt, Neroli Oil Tunisia, Hedione HC, Green Breeze, Orris Butter 15% infused in 2 different Jasmin Grandiflorum Absolutes (India & Egypt), Rosa Damascena Absolute infused in Violet Accord, Muguet Accord, Star Anise, Styrax Resinoid, Hay Absolute, Mimosa Absolute, Carnation Accord, 7 years aged Sandalwood Oil From East India (Santalum Album), Deadwood W. Australia, Castoreum (Reconstruction), Beeswax Absolute, Cistus Labdanum Absolute, Jonquille Accord, Fir Balsam Absolute, Mousse de Saxe, Musc (Synthetic Accord), Animalis, Honey infused Benzoin, Leather Accord, White Birch rectified oil.

Disclaimer: Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi was generously gifted to me by Angelos Balamis. My thoughts and nose as always, are my own.

J Wearescentient, Senior Editor, artist and olfactive writer.

J’s image of Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi

Thanks to the generosity of Angelos Balamis, we have a 30ml Bottle of Pnoi for a registered reader in the USA or EU only. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what strikes you about Pnoi based on j’s review and where you live. What’s your favourite from Angelos Creations Olfactives? Draw closes 11/30/2024.

Angelos Balamis was Michelyn’s rising star of 2020 and joint Artisan Perfumer of the Year 2022. Angelos Creations Olfactives Karikia was a top 10 of 2023 for Lauryn and Fougeriste was one of Lauryn’s top ten of 2022. Check out my review of Cuir Fleurissant, Lauryn’s review of Irida Extrait, Karikia, Salon DT and Danse Lascive. And Ida’s review of Krinos.

Available at Luckyscent in the USA including PNOI

Also check out  Contributor Darren Alan’s amazing introduction to Animalics here

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