Amouage Attar Range includes Rose Aqor, Vanilla Barka, Oud Ulya, Incense Rori, Saffron Hamra and Orris Wakan. (Photo Amouage)
No matter how many things are delivered directly to my door in this world of on-demand shopping, the anticipation of opening a package that has travelled from Amouage in Muscat, Oman to the US never fails to bring a tingle of joy. Like this package, I too have had the pleasure of traveling far and wide, experiencing many stops along my fragrant journey. And just like the Omani fragrance house, it is the Middle East where my journey into the world of perfume began. I can hardly believe it was a decade ago in 2012 that I first fell in love with Amouage Attars while visiting what was, at the time, the flagship boutique in Muscat, Oman.
The very knowledgeable and patient saleswoman explained that Omanis, and Arabs in general, will often layer their fragrances starting with the burning of bukhoor (incense) to give their dishdashas or kanduras (the white robe often worn by men in the Gulf) and abayas (the black robe worn by women) a resinous smoky aura. This is followed by dabs of attar on their pulse points or in their beards finishing with a generous spray of eau de parfum. Another trick she taught me was to swipe a bit of attar on the back of your hand between your thumb and index finger so when someone clasps your hand in greeting a little bit of you stays with them. From this initial visit in Muscat, I was sold on the concept and magical experience of Amouage attars collecting a wide range of scents over the next several years.
Amouage Factory in Muscat, Oman photo Rachel©
Allow me to share a portion of how Amouage explains the history of Attars since it mirrors so closely and expands upon my own lesson from the Muscat boutique:
“Derived from the Arabic ‘itr, meaning scent…. they [attars] became part of the daily Arabian perfume ceremony… More than a simple fragrance, they are an authentic and ritualistic gesture: they are a princely gift one offers to one’s honoured guests on their departure; they are the drop of perfume one shall wear before going to the temple or the mosque; the scented bond between spouses; the fragrance hovering over their wedding; of moral integrity and spiritual beauty.” – Amouage
Alas, in what was a complete surprise based on the popularity of these oils within the Gulf region, the Amouage attars seemingly disappeared one day from the market. This meant suddenly, I was left to hoard my precious collection of tiny glass bottles in the red lacquered boxes, packing them up and sending them across the ocean back to the US with the same anxiety a mother must feel as her children go off on their own for the first time. And this, my dear readers, is why I was thrilled to learn of the return of the attars after several years of absence, resurrected under the creative direction of Renaud Salmon, Chief Experience Officer, and created by a team of master perfumers including Cecile Zarokian, Dominique Ropion and Julien Rasquinet. The initial set of six attars would finally bring these treasures of Oman to a wider global audience. Thanks to the generosity of Amouage, I was able to sample all six and thoroughly appreciate each for their own uniqueness. I have chosen to focus today on the two created by perfumer Julien Rasquinet Amouage Incense Rori attar and Orris Wakan.
Perfumer Julien Rasquinet with Amouage’s Renaud Salmon in Oman (photo from Instagram @julienrasquinet)
I was drawn to these two attars for a few reasons. Firstly, I have been a longtime admirer of Mr. Rasquinet’s work thanks in part to our shared experience of living in Dubai where he created masterpieces for both Western and Arabic brands. In my opinion, the best way to truly learn about something is to immerse yourself in the culture by living within it. Even in Julien’s creations for brands perhaps not specifically aiming for that Arabic “je ne sais quoi” you get the feeling that Julien couldn’t resist throwing in hints of Arabic style perfumery. Secondly, I admire how the two scents of Amouage Incense Rori attar and Orris Wakan come across almost as polar opposites and yet were created by the same gifted nose, showing us that like a talented actor, you shouldn’t expect Julien to play the same type of role again and again just because he has mastered it.
Amouage Incense Rori Attar and Orris Waken Attar collage using Amouage Images
Starting with Amouage Incense Rori attar because it most matched with my expectations based on the original Amouage attars of years past with Hojari Frankincense, the most sought after and expensive resin of the Boswellia tree that grows in the Omani mountainous highlands, its fragrance is unique for its crisp, lemony greenness and delicate minty note. Incense Rori, Attar as many Amouage fragrances, utilizes frankincense as a reminder of the origins and heritage of this Omani house. I erased any doubt that there is real Hojari frankincense used in Incense Rori attar by doing a side by side comparison to my own bottle of pure frankincense oil purchased from the souqs of Oman, I experience that same lemony greenness mixed with smoke and fresh cut wood. Incense Rori becomes more velvety and slightly darker through the inclusion of oakmoss and, although not mentioned in the notes, I would guess there are other darker and spicier resins such as labdanum or benzoin used to enhance the dusty, golden base.
photo via unsplash
Admirers of amber scents such as Amouage’s own Epic Woman and Opus VI or Tom Ford’s Sahara Noir and Serge Luten’s Ambre Sultan, will have no difficulty falling for Incense Rori Attar. While I don’t want to take away from its self-contained beauty, I also imagine how Incense Rori could easily be layered along with other complimentary scents to add that extra bit of mysterious incense. Perhaps Incense Rori layered with a rose fragrance such as Lyric Woman or even Interlude Man to create the ultimate incense powerhouse. I highly recommend taking a cue from traditional Arabic culture when it comes to layering attars and eau de parfums, the possibilities are endless when it comes to the splendor of Amouage Incense Rori.
In an interview of Mr. Rasquinet posted on Amouage’s Instagram account, he mentions the difficulty in creating oils versus traditional eau de parfums; how oils need more time and especially heat to develop and show their complexity. This is one reason Amouage goes to significant lengths to explain how attars should be applied and enjoyed. It is also important to remember traditional attars are worn in some of the hottest regions of the world. Even when not applied directly to the skin (as they often are not in Arab society) they have plenty of opportunity to blossom in the natural heat that surrounds you despite your best efforts to remain cool. I had to remind myself of this fact while testing these attars in the dead of New England winter and give them plenty of extra time before coming to any judgements.
photo Michelyn
Orris Wakan starts with a true carroty and earthy green iris note that has an almost bread-like quality to my nose. It feels like the spring thaw, where patches of snow still remain but the first flower buds are fighting their way through to the surface of the moistened dirt. With subtle hints of green herbs mixed with the creamy spice of the highest quality sandalwood, Orris Wakan offers up a touch of powder that reminds me of fluffy yellow mimosa blossoms. Perhaps this is Julien Rasquinet’s take on the apricot blossoms that flower every spring in the Wakan village for which this attar is named. Mr. Rasquinet paints a picture of the entire Iris plant within a few drops of this precious oil, from the earthy roots through the green leaves and stem all the way to the elegant iris blossom.
Orris (Iris Pallida) while not traditionally used in traditional Middle Eastern perfumery being that it originates from Europe, has been masterfully adapted into Orris Wakan clearly representing the green oasis of Wakan village in the Hajar mountains near Nizwa. Just as the lush green fields and fruit trees are a complete surprise to find in the middle of a barren, rocky mountain scape, so is the beauty and artistry woven into the threads of Orris Wakan.
Those who are new to attars, I am sure you will find at least one of the six that will open up a new way to experience fragrance as they did for me so long ago. As Amouage has shown us again and again through their creations, they are not trying to be just another Middle Eastern brand, they are bringing Omani heritage to the rest of the world by building a bridge between East and West – based on Amouage Incense Rori and Orris Wakan, they are succeeding in this mission. The release of these attars has me eager to see what else Mr. Salmon and Amouage will present to us. Whatever it is I hope they will continue their partnership with Mr. Rasquinet, who like myself no longer resides in the Middle East but, clearly has not forgotten what that experience has taught him.
Rachel Watson – Senior Contributor
Amouage Incense Rori ATTAR: (2022) Frankincense, Cedarwood, Oakmoss
Orris Wakan ATTAR: (2022) Orris, Musks. Sandalwood
Disclaimer: This review is based on a discovery set coffret of all six attars generously provided by Amouage. My opinions are my own.
Amouage Discovery Coffret includes six 0.7ml vials Rose Aqor, Vanilla Barka, Oud Ulya, Incense Rori, Saffron Hamra and Orris Wakan.
Thanks to the generosity of a team member we have a .07 ml sample of both Amouage Incense Rori and Orris Waken attars for a registered reader in the US, UK or EU. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest about Rachel’s review and where you live. Draw closes 3/6/2022
You can purchase the Attar Discovery Coffret online at Amouage.com and at fine stockists worldwi
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