Photo: Aaron Terrence Hughes Supernova, photo art by Michael Devine©

“Without these supernova explosions, there are no mist-covered swamps, computer chips, trilobites, Mozart or the tears of a little girl. Without exploding stars, perhaps there could be a heaven, but there is certainly no Earth.” ― Clifford A. Pickover

While scientists describe a supernova—in simple terms—as a dying star, the perfume community thinks otherwise. Supernova, the fragrance, has further affirmed that UK-based indie perfumer Aaron Terrence Hughes is a viable and flourishing star. Released last month, Supernova instantly became the brand’s top seller, with its launch and subsequent restocks selling out within hours. As an ardent fan of Mr. Hughes’ work, I was among those who set their alarms for the release—and I scored a bottle of this summer stunner. Does it live up to the hype? Let’s take a closer look at Aaron Terrence Hughes Supernova and the house of Aaron Terrence Hughes. Before we begin, as Aaron would say, “Are we engaged with our higher selves?”

Aaron Terrence Hughes, courtesy of the brand

 

Intended as a seasonal release in similar fashion to last summer’s High Voltage, Supernova was inspired by the Mexican coast, one of Mr. Hughes’ favorite getaways. It opens with a proprietary bergamot accord blended with sweet orange and tangy grapefruit; a trio so realistically juicy I’m baffled again by the science of perfumery—how can something invisible be so vivid? Beyond baffling, it’s beautiful. The juiciness is further bolstered by a tart pineapple note diffused through ambroxan and “sea notes” which come across as an airy freshness, rather than oceanic or briny. An energizing ginger note further lifts the composition with a ballast of oakmoss and ambergris in earthy counterpoint. Aaron Terrence Hughes Supernova is at once uplifting and comforting, energizing and relaxing. There’s further comfort in familiarity as one who is acquainted with the brand’s DNA will recognize elements of his earlier work such as Haze and Neon. I perceive this as an expansion, rather than a rehash. One might also recognize parallels to Creed’s Aventus which at this point has become its own genre of perfumery.

Aaron Terrence Hughes Supernova, photo courtesy of the brand

Aaron Terrence Hughes Supernova is unabashedly a crowd-pleaser, forged in the intrinsic philosophy that perfume should smell good. While Mr. Hughes’ vast library includes everything from mass-appealing heroes like Guapo to more artistic departures such as Oud and Onyx, the common denominator is unmistakable: they smell so damn good. I first discovered the house of Aaron Terrence Hughes in 2021 when I blindly purchased Smoulder, a limited release created in partnership with Chris Wilkinson, also known as the YouTuber “Fragmental.” With its accords of burning frankincense over a “clean skin accord,” I was captivated by the duality of artistic expression infused with the familiar. Quickly after I melted for Smoulder, I tried to get my nose on as many of Aaron’s creations as possible. Thankfully, his offerings are fairly-priced and his 10ml bottles make blind-buying all too easy. Mail call: a dozen cheeky-named black mini-bottles. Slut, Alpha Man, Daddy (oh, Daddy, this became an instant favorite), and then there’s Boss Bastard, inspired by Leonardo DiCaprio’s role in “The Wolf of Wall Street.” Coincidentally, I had a small role in that film, perhaps another reason I flipped for this tobacco-laden, boardroom brawler. I grew quickly addicted to these curious liquids which counterbalanced the imaginative with the familiar, the abstract with the accessible. Some artists are considered bold and daring by pushing boundaries, but there’s also something equally respectable when an artist is unafraid to offer something new while appealing to collective interests. Oud, for example, can be quite divisive. The oud-based compositions in the Aaron Terrence Hughes lineup such as Luna, Onyx and the glorious Boss Bitch use authentic (and documented) oud oils but remain, at all times, approachable and further serve to demonstrate that a fragrance need not be challenging to be appreciable. Each has a place. Areej le Dore’s haunting Beauty and the Beast, with its erudite barnyard-oud opening made my list of 10 best perfumes of 2022, sitting alongside Aaron’s Wonka-scape MDMA/oud combo Hard Candy. Equally brilliant!

Michael Devine’s Aaron Terrence Hughes Collection, photo by Michael Devine©

As a fragrance enthusiast, I love my vintage Guerlains, my bejeweled Roja Doves, my gray-capped Creeds and yes, I also love my Boss Bastards and my Sluts. We can have it all, recognizing that olfactive artistry comes in all forms. Aaron Terrence Hughes’ work is high-spirited, whimsical and cheeky, but nonetheless serious and significant. Excellent perfumery is all about balance. For those who don’t have the luck or the timing to score a bottle of Supernova, I highly recommend you check out his earlier offerings Neon, Haze Extreme or High Voltage. For anyone with a nose and a heart, there’s something for you in this house. Aaron Terrence Hughes Supernova, like all of Aaron’s creations (blended at 25% concentration) has excellent longevity and strong sillage.

Top Notes: Italian Bergamot, Mandarin, Orange, Grapefruit; Heart Notes: Sea Notes, Apple, Pineapple; Base Notes: Patchouli, Oakmoss, Ginger, Ambergris, White Musk

Disclosure: This review is based on bottles purchased by the author.

Michael Devine, Senior Contributor

I’m so enamored with Aaron Terrence Hughes Supernova, which as of today’s post is sold out, that I’d love to share it! We have a 5ml decant from my own bottle of Supernova for one registered reader in the contiguous U.S. only. To be eligible, please leave a comment indicating what intrigues you Michael’s review.  Are you familiar with Aaron Terrence Hughes and which is your favorit?. Draw closes 6/1/2023.

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