New Perfume Review: Cognoscenti No.30 Incense Hay (Dannielle Sergent) + Westworld, Saints and Sinners Draw

Still from The Good, The Bad and The Ugly (1966) Credit: UNITED ARTISTS / THE KOBAL COLLECTION 

There’s a showdown a-coming.  A horse gallops through the night, redolent of hay, its rider sweating through a leather vest. Her cloak trails smoke and incense, a reminder of penance due as she rides into town.  At the same time, leather saunters into view, guns smoking, ready to take this perfume by force if need be.  Nearby, incense is waiting, whistling softly.

Hay: there’s room for only one dominant note in this perfume.

Incense: We’ll see about that. I’ll see you both at the corral at sundown.

Leather: Hell, I ain’t waiting. Draw.

Evan Rachel Wood as Delores, Westworld,  Season 1 HBO

No. 30, the newest perfume from Cognoscenti, is a robber bride who just who just tied up the groom and ransacked the church. While hay and incense get top billing in the opening credits, this is as much a rollicking tale of leather.  The initial blast of sweet green hay is chased on its heels by the rough-and-tumble aroma of worn saddles and riding crops.

 Man in Black, Ed Harris, Westworld, Season 1 HBO

Coming up close on their heels is the tobacco-like aroma of birch leaf something a little dirty and sweaty, which is most likely labdanum. But just wait till the incense gets here.

Peter Firth in the film Joseph Andrews (1977)

Perfumer and owner Dannielle Sergent describes her inspiration for No. 3: “I started the journey of this fragrance a couple of years ago. The idea was to couple the rigorous and disciplined fragrance of church Incense with a soft and multi dimensional natural scent. Sin and salvation embodied in fragrance, but so intertwined they cannot free themselves from each other. It’s a risque roll in the hay with a devout sinner. It’s love, lust, regret, and ultimately a natural peace.”

Thandie Newton as Maeve, Westworld,  Season 1

The leather and hay pull their weapons and fire back and forth. Just as they seem to be running out of bullets and settling into a partnership, woody incense arrives to stir things up again in a smoky cloud. Each note gets the upper hand in a dance that continues for some time; leather one moment, incense the next, then back to hay. When sweaty- sweet labdanum makes her entrance, shimmying like the showgirl she is, the incense, hay and leather follow her into the stables for a threesome.

Movie still from Luminarias by Tom Haines (2000)

Sneaking into the background of this drama are dense but muted green notes. The charred ember of birch and petrol-root aroma of vetiver can overpower fragrances for me, but here these potent chords are held in check, providing an earthy canvas against which the leather, incense and hay stand out in relief. 

Cowgirls and horses at sunset, stock photo

Where the opening is a leather and hay tussle, the dry down is the soft smolder of that last lick of flame, the linger of years of incense in wooden church pews. The incense used here is tickly, gingery and slightly spicy, and hovers around the sweetish tang of labdanum while vetiver continues to hum like a low string.  By the dry down, No. 30 achieves a perfect tension between its leading notes. In the end, leather, hay and incense ride off together into the sunset.

Notes: Hay, incense, birch leaf, immortelle, benzoin, oakwood, leather, lavender, labdanum and vetiver. Sillage is soft; longevity average

Sample provided by Cognoscenti Perfumes – many thanks. Opinions are my own.

 —  Lauryn Beer, Editor

Editor’s Note: I have a sample of No.30 and if you have seen the HBO series Westworld, I imagine Delores (when she understands she is a sentient being) or  The Man in Black wearing this perfume, so in addition to Lauryn’s images, I included some photos from the series.

No. 30, photo Cognoscenti

Thanks to the generosity of Dannielle Sergent and Cognoscenti, we have a 50 ml bottle of No. 30 Hay Incense for one registered reader in the U.S. and one 5ml purse spray for one registered international reader anywhere in the world. There are two winners. To be eligible please leave a comment with what appeals to you about No. 30 based on Lauryn’s review, where you live and who your favorite outlaw is or if you watched the premier season of Westworld.  Draw closes 1/14/2017.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS Feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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34 comments

  • Aaron Luke says:

    Just the name sounds so interesting! I’d love to try this, Hay and Incense, weird but cool .

  • fazalcheema says:

    The notes such as churchy incense, hay, and leather and the references to the Westworld and movies like Joseph Andrews make it apparent this scent pays tribute to the wild west. In this article, the pictures really help get an idea of the perfume. My favorite outlaw may be Billy The Kid. Thanks a lot for the generous draw. I am in the US.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    You definitely had me at hay! Toss in these other ingredients and I am sold. I do love the way hay and leather go together (L’Artisan’s Fleur du Narcisse, Cartier’s L’Heure Fougeuse to name a few), and I’m intrigued by what the incense would bring to the mixed. Descriptors like “Smoky” “sweet” and “sweaty” all sound wonderful! Thanks for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • karo says:

    The western, equistrian them of this fragrance intrigues me the most. Leather, hay and smoke from incense sounds like a heavanly concoction to capture the theme. I’m in the US. My favorite outlaw was Jesse James. Thank you so much for this draw.

  • Wayne Hollander says:

    I think this –

    “When sweaty- sweet labdanum makes her entrance, shimmying like the showgirl she is, the incense, hay and leather follow her into the stables for a threesome.”

    – is the first time I actually chortled at a review! This sounds inviting, the sweet hay taking the edge off the leather. And daddy loves smoke and incense. I haven’t seen “Westworld,” but I would say my favorite outlaw would be CATWOMAN <3 I am in frigid NYC & thanks as always for the exciting draws!

  • harper says:

    so far i’ve loved everything dannielle has concocted. her perfumes are very recognizable as hers — and create very much their own, strange but lovely olfactory world. i’ve said it before and will say it again: in a veritable avalanche of new perfumes, hers always stand out. and so. this latest mix of notes sounds marvelous, particularly the sweaty labdanum cradled by woods and smoke and hay. haven’t seen westworld. and favorite outlaw. hm. i know that’s not really what you meant, but i would have to say Pippi Longstocking 🙂 — and i’m in the US.

  • Ellen M says:

    I’ve been watching Westworld and really like it. I’m liking the notes and their “dance.” Thanks for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • ringthing says:

    Wow, a showdown between hay, incense and leather, where they fight for the win but end up in love, sounds fabulous. Love the description of the labdanum shimmy and the vetiver hum “like a low string.” I haven’t gotten around to Westworld yet but it’s on the list. Favorite outlaw? Josey Wales, who believed in a cause that took his family and left him a rebellious gunslinger, Clint Eastwood at his sweaty, leathery best. Thanks for the review and generous opportunity.

  • GrandmaGaga says:

    ‘It’s a risqué roll in the hay with a devout sinner’…what an intriguing description! I haven’t started watching Westworld…yet. My favorite outlaw is whoever is in the current show I’m watching! I’m in the US.

  • doveskylark says:

    “Love, lust, regret, and ultimately a natural peace.” Can we hope for anything more in life. Leather, incense, and hay– I’m all for that.
    My favorite outlaw was Mae West.
    I haven’t seen Westworld yet. But I heard it’s good.
    I live in the USA.

  • Bryan Christopher says:

    What intrigues me on this scent is the Hay note. I’ve only smelled it before in SL Chergui so I want to compare the two.
    My favorite outlaw is Geronimo from the old American Wild West stories. Imagine successfully raiding and multiple times surrendering to your enemies then later on you become a star because of this?
    I currently live in the US (California) for a month or two to attend my aunt’s 25th wedding anniversary.

  • annabelle breakey says:

    I’ve had the opportunity to smell this fragrance and it is indeed one of the most interesting by far from Cognoscenti. It is a must for anyone that wants to experience some adventure!

  • Maureen Ruf says:

    I like leather, not sure about the other notes. I would love tot try this fragrance. I have watched Westworld. the TV show was much better than the old movie. Loved Thandie Newton and Evan Rachel Wood in it. My favorite outlaw is Robin Hood. I live in the USA.

  • susie frankel says:

    Loved the review. Loved the pics. Love Westerns.
    That said…I also love burning incense. Guess it comes from my Catholic background.
    I was fortunate to purchase No. 30 sample and as with all Cognoscenti scents…it is so different. I love it.
    Have not seen Westworld.
    My favorite outlaws are David Bowie and Andy Warhol.

  • Dannielle Sergent says:

    Thanks for a great review! I love all of the comments and especially reading everyone’s favorite outlaws. Pippi Longstocking, David Bowie and Geronimo as picks are awesome. Thanks to all for the support and cant wait to send the fragrance out to the winners.

  • Diego says:

    Great review. I would love to try a fragrance like this one. It’s very different kind of fragrance but I usually to like the unusual scents. The combination of the notes is very intriging. I loved the note in COGNOSCENTI’s website ‘Our fragrances are never tested on animals. We test only on my friends…. who are beasts!’

    Thanks for the opportunity!
    USA

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Thanks for the review. Hey, Incense & Leather……a blend for cowboys. After reading the review it reminds me the TV series “How the West was Won” and Clint Eastwood Movie “The Good, The Bad & The Ugly”.
    This fragrance is a comfortable sin, embraced by saints and sinners alike……..from COGNOSCENTI’s website.
    In the movies Lee Van Cleef is my favorite as an outlaw.
    Thanks to the generosity of Dannielle Sergent and Cognoscenti, and Cafleurebon for the opportunity to participate in the draw by letting my relative address in NY, US

  • d3m0lici0n says:

    Wow what a great review , incense and leather sounds a good combo.
    This two quotes really will made me go out and try it:

    “the linger of years of incense in wooden church pews…”

    ” In the end, leather, hay and incense ride off together into the sunset.”

    My favorite villain is Javier Bardem as Raoul Silva in Skyfall . Just awesome…

    I live in the US and would love to win this one!

    Thanks.

  • Amber says:

    Sounds like an interesting combination of notes! I also really love the Westworld references. I can definitely see several of the characters wearing this scent, hoping to add my name to that lineup! I’m in the US, thanks for the draw!

  • Toblerone says:

    I like the smell of hay, one of the best scented memories I have (summer holidays). Unfortunately I can rarely smell it in perfumes, even if it’s one of the notes. No. 30 Hay Incense sounds great because I love leather and incense too.
    My favorite outlaw is Michael Scofield from Prison Break.
    Thanks for the draw. I live in the EU.

  • Rox says:

    I loved the thought of the incense lingering in the church pews long after the outlaws have gone. I love to visit old churches in the desert southwest and love the smell of them along with the dirt floors that are common in that area. My favorite outlaw would be Jesse James, my Dad would tell me stories of Jesse from the local lore of his hometown (Sherman South Dakota). I will be going there this summer with my Dad and he has promised to show me where Jesse jumped the canyon to escape. This fragrance sounds amazing. I live in the U.S. Thanks so much…..great photos!

  • Robert S says:

    You had me at the good the bad and the ugly opening and all the pictures from Westworld which is truly a reason to watch tv
    I love the image of incense whistling quietly in the wings
    My favorite outlaw is hector escaton on Westworld badass robot
    USA

  • mozaik says:

    Sounds exciting and rebellious! I like “outlaw” type of men and I’d love to smell this perfume on my husband. Thanks for the draw! EU.

  • Valentine Girl says:

    Love the notes of hay, incense & leather riding off into the sunset together. My favorite outlaw is David Carradine as “Bill” from Quentin Tarantino’s Kill Bill series. I can imagine him wearing this when he shows up for the Bride’s wedding rehearsal with his posse of assassins as the gritty scenes of the El Paso wedding chapel massacre unfold…bang bang, he shot me down; bang bang, I hit the ground; bang bang, that awful sound; bang bang, my baby shot me down…
    USA resident

  • Iphigenia says:

    I love the intense presence of incense but also the fact that in the end as Lauryn mentions:
    “No. 30 achieves a perfect tension between its leading notes. In the end, leather, hay and incense ride off together into the sunset”.
    I am a registered reader living in EU.
    Thank you for the very well written review filled with vivid description and draw as well.

  • teresa310 says:

    Westworld is an excellent recommendation and I have to try No.30. It sounds very interesting. I have never tried Cognoscenti before and I am very curious about the smell.

    Thank you for the draw. If Thelma and Louise count as outlaws, they are my favorite characters.

    (EU)

  • Miss Almond says:

    I like when the description of notes and how they play together is so vivid like in this case: “Where the opening is a leather and hay tussle, the dry down is the soft smolder of that last lick of flame, the linger of years of incense in wooden church pews. The incense used here is tickly, gingery and slightly spicy, and hovers around the sweetish tang of labdanum while vetiver continues to hum like a low string.” I can’t say hay is one of my favorite notes because I have never tried any perfume with hay note. But I love the smell of fresh hay, it’s one of the prettiest smells in the world! Thanks for the chance to win a purse spray. I live in Europe.

  • Greg Sh says:

    I’ve never tried a fragrance with hay in it, so that alone has me interested. When you mix in leather, now that sounds like a awesome comvo! My fav outlaw would be Jesse James. I’m in Canada and thanks for the draw

  • hofken says:

    Based on Lauryn’s review “the leather and hay pull their weapons and fire back and forth. Just as they seem to be running out of bullets and settling into a partnership, woody incense arrives to stir things up again in a smoky cloud” appeals to me about No. 30. I live in the US and my haven’t watched the new Westworld.

  • Lubulla says:

    I ve tried Cognoscenti 8 and I love it! Danielle is the excellent perfumer and I believe that she succeeded in her goal to bond church Incense with a soft and multi dimensional natural scent. Thanks for a chance to try it. I am in EU. I havent watched the Westworld.