New Perfume Review: Aftelier Memento Mori (Mandy Aftel)+ Memory and Remembrance Draw

mandyaftel-photo-ayabrackett

Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes (Photo courtesy of Mandy Aftel Aya Brackett)

Aftelier, the House that Mandy Aftel built, has released a new perfume, Memento Mori: a very personal endeavor for Mandy Aftel and one which is not without a deep sense of pain and recovery. As the name implies, this is the aroma of love, loss and remembrance. A “memento mori” ('remember you have to die', Latin) is a piece of art or symbol of mortality; hopefully turning one's attention to the spiritual rather than the worldly (often used as reminders of one's lost loved ones.)

rene-magritte-the-lovers

René Magritte The Lovers

Turning up as beautiful, if not somewhat eerie, “mourning jewelry”, Mandy has created an olfactory version of this ritual, saying, “Memento Mori is about the tender memories of the skin and body of someone with whom you have been intimate, and the ways that you treasure and long for that which you remember when they are lost to you.”

memory-1948-rene-magritte

Memory René Magritte 1948

Memento Mori opens as any forlorn memory would- with a piercing quality which is simultaneously intriguing and uncomfortable. It is inescapable. As with memory, the pain, upon further inspection, is momentary- and we begin a journey into assuaging the past. As if from out of suitcases of memories, Memento Mori is animalic, in an antique way- as memories of a loved one would surely contain the records of their skin, their touch and any heat produced between you.

rene-magritte-le-coup-au-coeur-1952-the-blow-to-the-heart

René Magritte Le Coup au Coeur 1952 The blow to the heart

Rose, perhaps best associated with love affairs, blooms center on this already musk canvas and what may have been previously difficult begins to change into something more familiar and sweet. Similarly,  when we are confronted with a difficult memory- the loosing of a beloved- if we sit with this memory, we are able to conjure the beauty of the relationship and not simply rest in the pain of the loss. This succor seems to be Memento Mori's mission.

la-grande-guerre-1964-rene-magritte

La Grande Guerre 1964 René Magritte

Further in, woody and lactonic notes come into play and it is here the musk becomes “golden”. That is to say there is a cleanliness about the musk; not difficult in any way- it's almost a misnomer to call it 'musk'- as slowly the sex is washed away, leaving clean skin and violet as the take away. Violets are associated with death and funerals in both Greek and Roman cultures, and still today in some circles.

the-invention-of-life-rene-magritte

The Invention of Life René Magritte

I would not mistake this for ia perfume about death; while a loved one may have parted (the notes are classic for the theme)- the newest Aftelier perfume proves true the thought that no one dies if they live on in our thoughts and hearts. It is a tender moment of allowing oneself to experience grief and offer one's self solace in the sweetness of memories.  A surprising discovery is Memento Mori is vastly different on paper than on my skin. My skin produces a strong fruit note through the first half of the journey and a foin note seems to follow throughout the wear. Also, as Mandy has used a base of both alcohol and fractionated coconut oil, some of aroma is fleeing from my skin while some become softened and clinging for an extended period. I found this representative of the ethereal or emotional state of memory- that which is mutable and changing with time and perspective; while the Fractionated Coconut Oil correlates to the physical response of memory- something more tangible and lasting.

Notes: orris butter, phenyl acetic acid, Turkish rose, beta ionone, ambreine, ambergris, antique civet and patchoulyl acetate in a special base of organic alcohol and fractionated coconut oil.

–Einsof, Natural Perfume Editor

*disclosure: My sample was the parfum and provided by Aftelier for review.

rene-magritte-les-reveries-du-promeneur-solitaire-1926

René Magritte – Les rêveries du promeneur solitaire (1926)

Art Direction: Michelyn I purposely chose the art of Rene Magritte, the surrealist whose paintings bridged reality and illusion. Many historians believe his work was heavily influenced by the death of his mother. I made the decision NOT to include memento mori photos.

memento-mori-mandy-aftel-perfume

Memento Mori  samples from Mandy's Twitter Feed

 Thanks to Mandy Aftel we have a deluxe sample (2x the regular size) of  both the EDP(2ml) and Parfum (1ml) of Memento Mori for a registered reader worldwide you must register or your comment will not count. To be eligible please leave  a comment with what you liked about Einsof’s review, a memory of a loved one you would love to create a perfume for , where you live and your favorite Aftelier Perfume. Draw closes September 19, 2016

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


25 comments

  • jenbat says:

    Such a great concept. I appreciated Einsof’s comparison of the nature of memory to the transitional nature of perfume – memory too changes with time and perception.I haven’t tried an Afterlier perfume yet, but I do love Mandy’s books. I live in Canada!

  • Timea says:

    Very interesting and unusual review. Those are generally sad moments when we are thinking about our lost loved ones… But that it is very important to keep them in our memory and never forget how important they were, and how much they loved us.
    I live in Europe. I only tried Amber from Aftelier Perfume.

  • Maya says:

    This is an interesting concept that could almost be depressing BUT when Einsof writes, “I found this representative of the ethereal or emotional state of memory – that which is mutable and changing with time and perspective”, I also think this fragrance could be quite lovely. I would love to try it. I cannot imagine creating perfume for those that I loved that are now gone. I have always been drawn to free-spirits and would love a
    perfume that can capture that magic!

    I have not yet tried any of Mandy Aftel’s perfumes. USA.

  • Shauna Rudd says:

    I love everything about Einsif’s writing — it’s insightful and visceral, and always well-researched. I’m a big fan of Mandy, too, and this perfume sounds so wonderfully intriguing. I’m in Canada, and I’d love to try a sample.

  • Mandy Aftel says:

    Deep thanks to both of you for this absolutely wonderful review! I appreciate so much Einsof’s deep writing & research & interpretation of Memento Mori, and Michelyn’s choice of Magritte paintings is truly inspired (like a perfume!)
    Mandy

  • FilM says:

    What a great idea, I am really speachless. A perfume that turns grief in acceptance and preserves good memories… Sounds great and I’d love to try Memento mori. I live in the EU.

  • Cynthia says:

    Very interesting concept, explained thoughtfully by Einsof.I wish I had a perfume to remind me of my mother; unfortunately she was not a scent wearer. I live in the USA. Thank you for the draw.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Love both the haunting concept and the review! The idea of memories being made of “skin” and the “heat” between you and the lost one…shivers! And that, coupled with “clean skin and violet as the take away,” makes me thrilled to try this scent! If I were to capture a scent of memory dedicated to a moment, it would definitely be a hike with my best friend–pine, ferns, dirt, boot leather, a bit of sweat, and maybe the apples we snacked on. Human but also of the environment around us. Thank you for the draw–I’d love to be entered for the opportunity to sample! I live in the US.

  • linda peduzzi says:

    Scent is a different dimension of expression and makes us feel things that are beyond words. My mother always smelled beautiful, and is the person I would love to create a perfume for – and in fact, when I was a third-grader, I did create a perfume for her. I mixed several of her perfumes and added a bit of food coloring (!) and put it in a fancy bottle. She was very gracious, as it may have been a bit much! I am dying to try this scent, as I think the mix of orris and rose and amber sounds like it would be wonderful. I live in the US. I have not yet tried Aftelier scent, but I am very interested.

  • fazalcheema says:

    I also initially thought it is going to be quite a melancholic perfume but as I read the rest of the article, it’s seems more cheerful than what the name may imply! My favorite perfume from Mandy is Grandiflorum Absinthe. I am in the US.

  • Dixie says:

    Love the concept .I like how Enisof kept the review on point, but not maudlin .If I were to create a perfume in memory of someone,it’d be my Dad. September 25th will be the 7th year anniversary of his death. I’d love to have a perfume that smelled like his work shirts. He was a machinist. Hugging him when he was wearing his work shirt was like smelling a tapestry woven with copper,laundry detergent, oldspice,coffee & cigarettes.
    I live in the US
    Haven’t had the pleasure of trying Mandy’s work yet

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Love the concept & the perfume review. We scent ourselves to leave a pleasant trial. Mandy’s new approach will not only leave a pleasant trial but also bring the memories of the loved ones that not exists and show their presence in mind for which we raised hands for blessings.
    I love Enisof statement – “that the newest Aftelier perfume proves true the thought that no one dies if they live on in our thoughts and hearts. It is a tender moment of allowing oneself to experience grief and offer one’s self solace in the sweetness of memories.”
    Never tried any of Aftelier perfumes, but are many on my wish list. Thanks for the draw.
    Peshawar, Pakistan

  • Lori L says:

    This is a wonderful review and concept! I would love to make a scent for my departed dad. As I was reading this article was thinking of him. I would love to capture all of the good memories in a scent. Unfortunately, I have not tried any of Mandy’s scents. I do love her books. I live in the US and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • Elise P says:

    Beautiful Einsof! As a perfumer I loved the description of the interplay between the alcohol and FCO in the perfume. But as usual, the writing is lovely as was the artwork. I’d love to create a perfume for my son who lives in Japan and loves all things Japanese. One of my favorite of Mandy’s perfumes is Cepes and Tuberose. Thanks for the draw!

  • Tami H. says:

    Wonderfully written review. This was my favorite part.

    Memento Mori opens as any forlorn memory would- with a piercing quality which is simultaneously intriguing and uncomfortable. It is inescapable. As with memory, the pain, upon further inspection, is momentary- and we begin a journey into assuaging the past. As if from out of suitcases of memories, Memento Mori is animalic, in an antique way- as memories of a loved one would surely contain the records of their skin, their touch and any heat produced between you.

    Would love to capture the memory of my Da carrying me into Midnight Mass on his shoulders when I was just a little girl. The smell of the cold, dark night along with freshly falling snow has always mesmerized me.
    I live in the U.S. Thanks much for the giveaway!
    I have many favorites of Mandy’s creations but Secret Garden has stolen my heart.

  • openmind says:

    This is so beautiful: “I would not mistake this for ia perfume about death; while a loved one may have parted (the notes are classic for the theme)- the newest Aftelier perfume proves true the thought that no one dies if they live on in our thoughts and hearts.” I’d love to smell this perfume. I live in the EU.

  • Toblerone says:

    Very inventive concept, although I’m not sure if I would wear the scent dedicated to someone whom I loved and who died… I think I would rather sniff it from the bottle.
    Thank you Einsof for the great review. I’m very curious about Memento Mori. I’m in the EU.

  • Hootlia says:

    What a lovely and romantic theme for a perfume! After losing a loved one, it is always the surprise wafts of their scent that get me the most. Scent really is the most emotional of the senses. I have never been able to find an Aftelier fragrance, but I have been following Mandy for quite some time. I’d love to do one of her workshops! I live in Canada, thank you.

  • jennapa says:

    Being of a rather Buddhist mindset, I like to think of memento mori in its original meaning, per Einsof ” –(‘remember you have to die’, Latin) is a piece of art or symbol of mortality; hopefully turning one’s attention to the spiritual rather than the worldly” –as way of reminding us to live fully in this life. Loved and missed is a place, for which I’ve started creating a perfume–not yet complete. Fav’s of Mandy’s: Parfum Privee and Oud Louban.

  • doveskylark says:

    this was a very touching view. I believe that if we keep memories of our loved ones, they live on. I’d like to create a scent for my Grandmothers. It would be something really comforting and bring safety to all who wear it.
    I live in the USA.

  • Cheri says:

    Makes me teary-eyed. I just lost my mother aa few weeks ago, and my father back in March.
    I have loved them so much. Now they are gone from this earth, my memories of them have become quite intense. In my dreams, the memories are intense, those of the unconscious mind.
    During the day, the memories are more cherished and have taken on a more sentimental tone.
    My mother had one theme running through her favorite fragrances: citrus and a lily-like floral. I thought they caught the lightness of her thoughts, which were fleeting. She was private, but her sense of humor was light. Whenever she saw a loved one, her face lit up like the sun. If I were to capture her in a scent, I’d base it on lily, neroli, and, perhaps a bit of ginger. I’d incorporate just a hint of oakmoss to reflect the deeper part of herself, the pain and sadness she’d rarely show.
    Einsof’s review is a stark reminder that when we lose someone close, we gravitate to memories that are special: hugs, cuddling. I miss those the most with my departed family. I slept with my father’s pillow for months after he passed.
    Thank you! I’m in the USA.

  • Lubulla says:

    Thanks for the chance to get and try this new fragrance. I have never tried anything of Aftelier but I like a description of few scents – Tango, Shiso… And I am also curious about orris butter, I guess I d like it. I live in EU. Thanks.

  • tiffanie says:

    Thank you for sharing this fragrance and Magritte’s art together, a thoughtful and evocative pairing. I liked reading about the facets of this fragrance, especially how it differs on paper and skin. Life and death are that way, too. We can read words on paper and experience life and death at a remove, but they are always intimately with of us.

    I have imagined creating a perfume from my memories of a dear neighbor who loved me as her grandchild when I was very young. Her gentle hugs smelled of violet pastilles and peppermint hard candies hovering above the faint smoke of the single menthol cigarette she smoked each morning with her coffee. Her home smelled of fresh baked bread and the clean fur of her enormous black German shepherd named Igor.

    I am in the US and haven’t yet tried a scent from Aftelier. Thank you for the review of Memento Mori and for the generous draw.

  • Lyubov says:

    ‘Golden’ musk intrigued me! Another ‘must-try’ on my list! Moreover, it is coupled with violet and rose, which are my favorite floral notes. At some points, Einsof is being frank to an extent for me to wonder if he liked Memento Mori, but this surely is a positive review of a unique fragrance!
    Memories of a lost loved one almost always hurt to the point of rejection, but it won’t be hard for me to recreate. I would only be hesitating on which one exactly, because there were many. Probably, my Grand-Grandmother gave me one of the most persistent memories – leading me into the stony basement of her old house (think of wet agglomerate ground, mineral hues), where she would grant me with apples, hazelnuts and а flagon of stum (well, you can imagine those scents!).
    I tried just a few of Mandy’s creations, and so far Tango is my favorite!
    I am in Bulgaria. Thank you for the draw!

  • Maureen Ruf says:

    Thanks for an interesting review…I loved the Magritte pictures. I have experienced several family members and my husbands passing, yet I remember everything and miss them always. I have never tried any of Mandy’s fragrances. Pleease enter me in draw. I live in the USA. Thanks.