Vintage Bottle of Di Borghese Eau De Parfum   courtesy of Aaron for ÇaFleureBon

Some of you that know me are already well aware that on any given day you could just as well find me at the highest end department store or at the junkiest of junk shops.  Yes, I do love shopping for treasures both new and old.  It amazes me what one might find on some back shelf or behind a counter that's been long forgotten and just waiting to be discovered. A couple weeks ago I was at a thrift shop in the middle of nowhere Illinois and came upon a bottle of Di Borghese EDP by Princess Marcella Borghese.  Of course, when I find any perfume I am ecstatic, but I was particularly thrilled about this one because I know it is very hard to come by and can fetch some very high prices.  Most of all, I consider it a wonderful piece of perfume history.  It is representative of the will of a Princess with a love of art and fashion and the business sense and know how of one the the most successful cosmetic giants in history. 

"If you  are going to something about beautycare do it very very well"-Princess Marcella Borghese ad 1977 (partial nudity Avante Garde for that time in ads )

Princess Marcella Borghese met Charles Revson (founder of Revlon) in the mid to late 1950’s.  Her desire was to make a cosmetics company with a natural flair with homage to Italy.  Together they launched Princess Marcella Borghese, later simply known as Borghese.  Created primarily as a cosmetics company, they produced high end cosmetics available as a premium line in the world's best department stores (in contrast to the wider mass market distribution of Revlon).  An early project was to produce lipsticks and nail colors specifically designed to augment the fashions of Emilio Pucci.  Everything that bore the name Borghese was of exceptional quality and the first perfume to come from the house was no exception.

Di Borghese Fragrance ad 1979 The Perfume of the Night

Di Borghese was released in 1978 several years after the massive success of Revlon’s Charlie. In certain respects they share much in common, but Di Borghese is the grown up sophisticated side to the care free Charlie.  Where Charlie could be worn just about anytime anywhere; Di Borghese was much more of a formal scent that would work perfectly in the evening.  In fact, ads toted the fragrance as “The Pefume of the Night”.   I couldn’t agree more.

Gardens of Venus Villa Borghese ©-Preisle

The structure of the perfume is Floral-Chypre with only a slight nod to an Oriental.  One thing is for sure, it’s green, very, very green…which really is no surprise given the era it was released.  However, this is by no means a bad thing.  What sets this one apart from the sea of other “greens” of the time is just how opulently chic it comes off. 

Photo:1963  Duane Michals Beauty Editorial Princess Marcella Borghese

It’s an aura that envelops you in a dark misty realm of mossy green with a subdued glimmer of light just off in the distance.  Through the cloudy haze there is just enough light to notice the presence of flowers in your midst. The initial blast is extremely deep with top notes of Peach and Galbanum. There is a bit of Bergamot to give it a hint of sparkle, but it’s in a very refined manner.  It is in no way bright or cheerful, it’s just enough to add glimmer.   Almost immediately thereafter Oak Moss is evident – very evident…and do I ever love it.  What makes that fact even better is that it’s augmented by a hint of Carnation/Clove, Muquet, and one of the most lovely presentations of Narcissus I can remember.  The mixture of floral green and spicey is nothing short of brilliant here.  I can see why this is sought after and coveted by those that know it. The mid stage brings in some of the same key players from Charlie – Jasmine and Hyacinth.

Model Veruschka in the Borghese Gardens (1971) Colorized by MC

The overall effect here though is much spicier than Charlie. It’s no doubt related, but vastly different.  The depth that Di Borghese goes here is remarkable – making the wonderful Charlie seem more like a loud child trying to be something more-albeit eloquently.  Di Borghese on the other hand, has it down.  It doesn’t ask for attention, it quietly commands it very respectfully. As the scent progresses the element of spiciness is still clear for several hours – the fade out is ever so gradual.  Peeking out occasionally is slightly powdery Sandalwood which sits firmly upon the ever evident Oak Moss.  As the Sandalwood develops, so does rich Amber.  The Amber gives the perfume that added extra touch that very nearly takes the perfume to Oriental territory.  For me, it’s just not quite there, but there nonetheless.  It is wonderful.

Overall, I must give these perfume high marks.  Without any doubt whatsoever, it is well made.  It is truly unique in its own way and I’m certainly glad I came across it.  Its 70s’ without being “70s” at all.   Where it shares much in common with a great many of the time and genre, it does stand apart.  It’s too bad; it’s been lost to the hands of time.   Gone, but not forgotten.

–Aaron Potterman, Contributor and Vintage Perfume Expert

Disclosure from my own collection

Art Direction Michelyn Camen

Thanks to The Perfumed Court we have a 1.5ml glass sprayer of this very rare and hard to find perfume Borghese di Borghese EDP for a registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, you must be a registered reader and sign up for The Perfumed Court Newsletter. Please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Aaron’s review of Borghese di Borghese EDP, why you would like to try it and where you live. Draw closes 1/27/2015

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