ÇaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery: Julia Zangrilli of NOVA + Chakra Fragrance Draw

J U L I A Z A N G R I L L I of nova perfume

Photo by Jens Ingvarsson for Refinery29.

Profile: I live and work in New York City and Williamsburg, Brooklyn, but was born and raised in State College, Pennsylvania, the youngest of four kids. My father owns a bar/restaurant group and my mother is an all-around artist/academic.

julie age5

Julia age 5

My family is very much tied together by adventures in travel, food and the arts…all our stories are rooted there. The house where us kids all grew up is a collage of those things and definitely had a big impact on my style and creative voice. It's covered in paintings, old prints, sculptures, books, ceramics, carpets/textiles gathered via travel.

Venice, 2013

Julia in Venice 2013

All time periods and design movements, side by side within a single space. It's highly visual but feels very warm and comfortable. With food, hobbies, basically everything – the idea was to have a curious and eclectic palette. As an adult I'm definitely that way…aesthetically open, interested in a variety of means, methods, and relationships.

nova perfumes ingredients

Julia's Lab in Williamsburg, essential oils and formulae

Following individual study in New York capped by certification in raw materials from the Grasse Institute of Perfumery in 2011, I set up a home lab seeking to make interesting fragrances. Learning to blend began with understanding of oil dynamics and progressed via experiments in fragrance structure – often by way of blending personal scents for friends. NOVA was founded in 2012. Over time, the habit of working with others lead to an organic collaborative system by which custom formulas are built from scratch and tailored to a person's taste and skin/chemistry.  NOVA's mission is to make beautiful, one of a kind products using high quality materials.  I compound and create all formulas which are phthalate-free, all manufacturing takes place in New York City.

cafleurebon julia zingalli nova perfumes brooklyn

Julia Zangrilli Formulating NOVA perfumes

On American Perfumery: I enjoy the non-purist mentality that a lot of American brands run with. Many companies are helmed by self-starters who begin with a passion for fragrance and strong sense of personal taste. Many niche perfumers come from design / editorial fields and are able to launch their lines very resourcefully. They may hire a nose, they may create formulas themselves, it doesn't seem to matter to the public it's just about how the given product strikes them. Apart from safety regulations, there aren't a lot of rules in my opinion.

 

_White_Center_(rothkoYellow,_Pink_and_Lavender_on_Rose)_(1950)

White Center Yellow, Pink and Lavender on Rose -Mark Rothko (1950)

Favorite American Artist: I love Rothko's potency and saturation. It feels primitive and emotional. The vibe I get in viewing his compositions is very well summed up his desire to express "basic human emotions: tragedy, ecstasy and doom

–Julia Zangrilli, Founder and Perfumer for NOVA

Editor’s Note: I first became aware of Julia through perfumer Darryl Do of Delbia Do and through magazines such as The New Yorker, Elle.com, New York Magazine, Vogue and Refinery 29. Julia Zingalli created Loup Chamant’s debut fragrance, Sultan.  She also has created scent collaborations with Madewell, jewelry designer  Anne Sheffield, Opening Ceremony and offers a bespoke perfume service.

chakra nova perfume

Thanks to Julia we have a draw for a US reader for 50 ml of her cult favorite CHAKRA. To be eligible please leave a comment noting what you found fascinating about her path to perfumery. Draw ends February 11, 2015

Please like CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery and your entry will count  twice.

 We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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27 comments

  • rob hunt says:

    The no rules niche and experimental fragrances fascinates me and is the wave of the future. Chakra would be my choice.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    I think Julia hit the nail on the head with her thoughts on American Perfumery. And it’s exactly that mentality I love about it! Thanks for the interview and thanks Julia for the wonderful draw! I would love to try the Chakra. I’m in the USA.

  • cynthia says:

    It seems to be a common thread in these perfumer’s stories that they were exposed to a myriad of experiences as a child and exploration of interests was welcomed. There aren’t many stories of helicpopter parents and academic tutors! I would be interested in Chakra. USA

  • Patty P. says:

    I too enjoy the American perfumery trend of lawlessness. 🙂 I would love the Moonstone body and room spray. USA

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    I like the fact Julia embraces the non-purist mentality of American perfumery and is primarily inspired by the passion for the art of the perfumery. thanks for the wonderful draw. For this draw, my choice will be Chakra. I am in the US

  • Connie says:

    I loved reading the short bit about her close-knit family. I’m in the US and would like to win Chakra.

  • jiminy says:

    I will echo identifying with Julia’s views and subscription on the non-purism that is a trait of many American perfumers.

    It is that philosophy that keeps me wanting to discover more and more as its the best way I can think of of keeping the evolution of perfumery alive and well.

    My pick of the three would be Chakra – it sounds lovely.

    I am in the US. Thanks for the draw.

    PS: I’m a liker of ” CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery” on facebook, too. 🙂

  • Amy K says:

    I’m in the US, and I’ve never really thought about it, but American perfumery does seem particularly accessible to artists like Julia, who choose to branch out into fragrance as a natural extension of their other artistic interests. I would love to try Chakra. Thanks!

  • deborah says:

    Hello. I, too, am inspired by Mark Rothko. What a great story. Thanks for sharing it. I’d love to try Chakra!

    Deborah

  • Donna says:

    Seeing the artistic creations around one is where we glean our inspiration, I love hearing about artists who paint on a canvas with scent colors.

  • Matt says:

    It’s inspiring to hear American perfumers come from design and editorial backgrounds and the audience will support boutiques that innovate themselves or have a professional nose hired. I’m astonished her trajectory with NOVA only began in 2011 if I understood correctly!

  • Joyce says:

    I like that Julia makes her fragrances phthalate-free to begin with. I found it interesting her journey of study, the home lab and her obviously deep understanding of the compounds. Not just intuitive but scientific. I would love to try Chakra. Thanks for bringing Julia to my attention. I am in the US

  • Daisy M. says:

    “the idea was to have a curious and eclectic palette. As an adult I’m definitely that way…aesthetically open, interested in a variety of means, methods, and relationships.” This really sums up an aspect that most great perfumers I know possess. I think her family life sounded very rich and supportive. I would love to try Chakra! Congrats Julia.

  • Robert H. says:

    Travel and the arts creating a base from which to work. If only more parents realized this! Chakra sounds terrific and I would be honored to try it! I’m in the USA.

  • Carol W says:

    I found that she makes custom formulas tailored to a person’s taste and skin/chemistry fascinating. I have one of those chemistries that doesn’t always work well with perfumes so I have to sample everything to make sure it doesn’t turn. I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • Aaron Butler says:

    It is always uplifting and exciting to see so many new takes on the art of perfume. I would relish the chance to try Chakra! Such a great, uplifting article in the world of fragrance. I am located in the U.S.

  • Kristi says:

    I found it interesting how her childhood home had such an impact on her I would love to try Chakra. I’m in the U.S.

  • Sun Mi says:

    I like that art in her childhood home nurtured her creativity and helped her become the experimentally open perfumer that she is. I hope to create that kind of environment for my son as well. Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US!

  • Lean S says:

    Thank you for this chance! I liked reading about the inspiration her work gains from her travel experiences and art. However, I was most impressed by the initiative in making a home lab to produce her fragrances when Julia first began.

    I also like the facebook page (Lean Sa)

  • Sandi L says:

    Learning the dynamics of Oil structures and then experimenting perfects the art of blending 😉 I always love reading these profiles.
    I am in the US

  • silvrolive says:

    What I find fascinating is the childhood environment that encouraged Julia to develop a “curious and eclectic pallete” and lead to exploration and the ability to work with others to create unique scents and unusual combinations.
    I am in the US and have also liked the CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery facebook page. Thanks!

  • minteacup says:

    I like Julia’s take on the free spirited character of American perfumery! 😉 I am in the US. Thanks!

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I found it fascinating that Julia’s eclectic childhood led her to being aesthetically open in her approach to perfumery. She must have enjoyed growing up in that environment.

  • Ginny M says:

    I’d love to have a fragrance custom-made to suit my skin chemistry! What a dream that would be! I’m intrigued by her bespoke business, and found myself thinking that she grew up around scents and flavors, what with her father being in the bar-and-restaurant industry. I’m in the US.

  • Holly F. says:

    I found Nova’s mission interesting, and that “custom formulas are built from scratch and tailored to a person’s taste and skin/chemistry.” That is so cool! I’d love to try Chakra. Thanks for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • Mara says:

    Julia’s collaborations with madewell and opening ceremony speaks to her talent. I am visiting NY in the spring and will try to make an appt if she takes them for a custom perfume.
    Thank you for the generous draw.