As a long time fan of the Mugler Miroir Perfumes that debuted in 2008 (I still have my Miroir des Envies which was co-created by Christine Nagel) I am delighted that Thierry Mugler Parfums is back with five original luxury perfumes that comprise the Mugler Les Exceptions Collection. Perfumers Olivier POLGE and Jean Christophe HERAULT composed the scents which were created in the "couture spirit" of Thierry Mugler. Each perfume is based on a fragrance family: Chypre, fougere, floral, oriental and musk and are housed in Art Deco styled flacons, which are handpoured through scented cones.
PerfumersOlivier POLGE and Jean-Christophe HERAULT
Chyprissime by Olivier Polge
Chrypre is an iconic and noble harmony, based on a traditional blend of bergamot orange, oak moss, cistus labdanum and patchouli, and invented at the beginning of the 20th century. A surprise guest ingredient makes its appearance in a fruity and juicy accord with pear accents; an unexpected and dazzling scent in a high-tech reinterpretation of chypre… pure, resonant and radiant.“I updated the structure of chypre by sharpening the edges more precisely and made it more colorful by designing a new shade inspired by this palette to give it a new brightness. Pear takes away the vintage sheen from this great monument of classical perfumery. A stylishly original, sophisticated perfume.” Olivier POLGE
Supra Floral by Olivier Polge
The soliflore, reinvented around a remarkable flower, rare in perfume making, the hyacinth. A fluid, profound and richly-faceted flower, velvety, green and crisp, quickened by an unexpected ingredient with a fiery temperament, incense.“By blending notes of incense and an amber base, I imagined a hyacinth with a bold temperament, far from the idea of the emblematic, romantic flower. Supra Floral signals a seductive perfume for women and temptation for men.- Olivier POLGE
Fougere Furieuse by Jean Christophe Herault
Archetypal in men’s fragrances, the “fougère” traditionally reveals a wealth of aromatic, woody notes with geranium, oak moss, bergamot and coumarin. With its floral facets, borrowed from feminine perfumes, neroli challenges the masculine character of the fougère accord and creates turmoil… it teams up with incredibly sexy and overdosed coumarin and amber notes. A bewildering sensory experience, aesthetic and addictive, crafted around genders.“Playing on the codes of the genre, borrowing some elements from the male wardrobe then changing them, daring to be outrageous, these precepts have been applied to the fragrance. Feminine floral facets of the fougère structure have been intensified and the contrasts amplified. The approach is resolutely Muglerian”. Jean-Christophe HERAULT
Over the Musk by Jean Christophe Herault
Musk used to be one of the rare natural ingredients in perfume making that could not be farmed and was extracted from the musk deer. Reinvented by technology, musk has since lost its animal nature in favor of more mellow, transparent notes. The challenge? Finding the instinct, character, sensuality and depth of animal musk. A dream comes true thanks to botanical ambrette seeds which transform animal musk into plant musk. “Simplicity sometimes reveals many nuances. Over the Musk explores the bright side of sensuality. From fluffy white cashmere to powdery velvet, the story is about irresistible sex appeal”. Jean-Christophe HERAULT
Oriental Express by Olivier Polge
A tribute to precious oriental perfumes. Balms, resins, vanilla and powdery effects create intensely sensual and addictive blends. A startling and unusual base of carrot, seed and wood adds an unexpected twist. An original edginess in an oriental perfume that loses none of its opulence. In fact, quite the opposite…“For me, Oriental Express is a fur-like perfume… I decided to enhance the harmony of sandalwood and vanilla by blending it with carrot and basil, for an aromatic green effect. This striking contrast gives birth to a feminine or masculine oriental fragrance, with an unexpected personality”. Olivier POLGE
Available online and in the USA at three selective Nordstrom point of sales in the US starting end of September: Miami Aventura, LA South Coast Plaza and Chicago Michigan Avenue. Price is 80 ml $225. All bottles are refillable.
Via Thierry Mugler USA
–Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief
Which Mugler Les Exceptions are you looking forward to testing?