Top Ten Perfumes of 2025 Michelyn Camen and Ermano Picco
I don’t have a middle name; but if I did it would be “Gourmand.” What is interesting is that this year, there is only one “gourmand” in my top ten best perfumes of 25. I gravitated to floral-centric fragrances as well as meditative, uplifting, and thought-provoking scents steeped in other cultures and in storytelling. –Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
In alphabetical order my top ten perfumes of 2025:
Michelyn’s Top Ten Perfumes of 2025
Angelos Olfactives Creations Narkissos (Angelos Balamis): Angelos has been working on Narkissos since 2022 and when he sent me it, he wrote in his note “it’s you, fit for a queen.” I am certainly not a queen, but Narkissos is royal. She holds court with a beautiful old‑world intensity, that mossy, green‑gold brightness that once defined the great perfumes of another era, yet it feels unmistakably modern. Honeyed florals gather around her in a soft, slightly shadowed glow, edged with fresh stems and a smoldering cruelty-free musk. Narkissos shines with a timeless, sensual, and irresistible beauty. @angelos_creations_olfactives @angel_bal
Badar Perfumes Rouge Eclat (Margaux LE PAIX GUERIN and Amelie Bourgeois): Flair perfumers Margaux Le Paih‑Guérin (my perfumer of the 2025 and rising star of 2024) and Amélie Bourgeois team together to compose a refined and balanced gourmand centering around medjool dates. They paint Rouge Éclat with crimson tones, bright florals and creamy woods. Osmanthus adds a warm, apricot glow that winds through the perfume and floats on a vanilla cloud. Flawless. @badarparfums @margaux.le.paih.guerin @ame_lie_bourgeois @flair.paris
DSH Perfumes Blue Peacock (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz): In a sea of oud fragrances, DSH Perfumes Heirloom Elixir Peacock Blue is a standout beauty worthy of its name. This peacock is showy and opulent with classical Indian floral attars, fruity-floral champaca leaf, and silky mango used to compliment the sensual richness of the Mysore sandalwood and ouds (there are many oud materials used). Blue Peacock is a transporting fragrance; and these days we can all use a perfume that takes us out of the everyday and into a place of luxury and magic. @dshperfumes
Deux ex Petra (Olivier Durbano): Olivier Durbano sculpts his latest precious stone and sets it alight. Deus ex Petra 21, “God from the Rock”, rises in a blaze of clarity, incense opening a passage into the realm of spirituality. A luminous citrus shimmer lifts like a spark from within, deepening into a warm, smoldering glow. Incense and fig intertwine with herbal, verdant, gently spiced nuances, all illuminated by the cool resin of fir balsam. Ambergris, vetiver, and musk anchor the perfume in a soft, mineral warmth, carried on a breath that rises from stillness to purify and awaken. In its radiance, I feel cleansed and reborn. @olivierdurbano
Etat Libre D’Orange Above The Waves (Mathieu Nardin): Above the Waves treats tea and incense as a moment of contemplation, an aromatic pause that clears the mind. Inspired by Mazu, the Taiwanese goddess of sailors, its olfactive narrative is told through three teas and incense. Green Maté, Ceylan, and Black Tea are woven into smoky tendrils of incense and vetiver. The fragrance creates a scented space for reflection, an escape from this year’s challenges, a reminder to breathe, let unimportant things go. Rise above the waves. @etatlibreorange @etiennedeswardt @mat_nd
Kajal Topaz (Vincent Ricord, Senior Perfumer at CPL Aromas): Illuminated by the glow of the topaz gemstone and inspired by the friendship between Creative Director Moe Khalaf (my Best Creative Director of 2025) and Vincent Ricord, Kajal Topaz evokes the warmth and light of their bond. It opens with the vibrant lift of black lemon before unfolding into a glowing candied‑citrus heart. Beneath that brightness, ambergris, ambroxan, and cedarwood add a soft, airy depth. In both its composition and its spirit, Topaz is as a true reflection of the brand: multi-faceted, modern, and grounded in authentic connection. @KAJALperfumes @vincentricordperfumer
Marc-Antoine Barrois Aldebaran (Quentin Bisch): In a year of exceptional floral fragrances, Aldebaran shined as brightly as its namesake. Marc‑Antoine Barrois and Quentin Bisch created a perfume around a cool green, incandescent tuberose. The surrounding foliage deepens the flower’s radiance, giving the white petals an otherworldly, heady aroma. An undercurrent of maté moves throughout, pulling leather facets to the surface and sparking the pepper’s vegetal heat. A soft smokiness lingers beneath it, creating a terrain for the tuberose to open: slowly and sensually as its trail transports me to the brightest star in the moonlit sky. @marcantoinebarrois @quentinbischperfumer
Neela Vermeire Creations ESHĀL (Bertrand Duchaufour): ESHĀL was created by Neela Vermeire’s friend and longtime collaborator, master perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, so she could revisit happy childhood memories and journeys to India’s flower markets that would help sustain her while she faced health challenges. Duchaufour translates those memories into a tuberose-forward fragrance that is more than just beautifully constructed, it is transportive. ESHĀL is a green, luminous, airy creation that is at once meditative and optimistic. If hope had a scent it would smell like ESHĀL. @neelavermeirecreations @bertrand. duchaufour
Wit & West Caldera Flower (Whitney Swales): Inspired by Whitney Swales and her husband, Rob Westendorf’s time in Panama, Caldera Flower is a study in both place and natural materials. A bright opening of bergamot and ginger moves into a white‑floral bouquet at the heart. The star is the gardenia absolue, which in less skilled hands might be overpowering, so Swales paired it with magnolia and neroli to showcase the flower in a way that was translucent and sparkling. I close my eyes, I can imagine standing beside the Rio Caldera, listening to water over rocks and the distant calls of birds, the humid air carrying the scent of tropical blooms. It’s this olfactive storytelling combined with balance and technical precision, that makes Caldera Flower deserving of Best Natural Perfume and one of my top ten fragrances. @witandwest @wudru11
Thomas de Monaco Jade Amour (David Chieze): Thomas de Monaco’s Flowers for Future trilogy is exceptional, yet it is Jade Amour that truly captivates me. Conceived by David Chieze as an olfactory interpretation of the Liane de Jade, a scentless yet strikingly beautiful flower he once encountered in his studies, it shimmers in sunlit floral tones, balancing verdancy with airy musk, creamy warmth with luminous light. It glows like a mysterious neon bloom, radiant and unforgettable. One of the reasons David is my rising star of 2025. @thomasdemonaco @davkze
Ermano’s Top Ten of Perfumes of 2025
With nearly (according to some sources) 10,000 perfume launches in 2025 and having sampled roughly a thousand of them over the past twelve months (most people likely sample fewer than 100 fragrances per year), it is inevitable that some remarkable creations may have escaped my radar. Still, the perfumes listed below stood out for their personality, at a time when many launches blurred into one another. What guided my personal top ten perfumes of 2025 was above all coherence: the resonance between the narrative behind each fragrance, its exquisite technical execution, and that unexpected twist capable of provoking what Edmond Roudnitska described as an “olfactory and emotional shock.” In some cases, this rare “alignment of planets” was also supported by a strong visual identity and packaging, giving the fragrance an even stronger expressive impact—a quality that personally moved me in each of these ten compositions, presented here in alphabetical order. –Ermano Picco Editor
Top Ten Perfumes of 2025 -Ermano Picco
Atelier Materi Black Oregano (Céline Perdriel): Black Oregano transforms an aromatic herb into a darkly sensual, almost mouthwatering composition. The fragrance triggers an immediate gustatory response, recalling for me the memory of an exceptional extra-dark chocolate with rosemary that I tasted years ago, aromatic yet addictively intoxicating. Black Oregano surprises through its use of herbal and subtly animalic hues in an unexpected context. @ateliermateri @celine.perdriel.perfumer
Neela Vermeire Creations Eshal (Bertrand Duchaufour): A sparkling tuberose blooming with confident nonchalance, Neela Vermeire Creations Eshal marks a much-awaited comeback of Neela Vermeire and Bertrand Duchaufour collaborating to a new creation for her main line. The Diva of flowers’ more poisonous sides are tamed here by a radiant interplay of citrus notes and cold spices that carry a classical green floral accord into new territory. The opulence of generously poured naturals is palpable, resulting in a timeless yet contemporary trail that shines like a precious jade cabochon. @neelavermeirecreations @bertrand. duchaufour
Première Peau Gravitas Capitale (Grégoire Balleydier): Gravitas Capitale confirms Grégoire Balleydier as one of the noteworthy emerging voices of his generation. Here, tuberose becomes sheer, electric, and architectural—less bouquet, more vertical structure. The tension between exquisite natural textures and modern materials creates a sense of vertigo like looking down a city street from the edge of a skyscraper. Vegetally urban at its best. @premierpeau @gregballydier
Sultan Pasha Irisoir (Sultan Pasha): With Irisoir, Sultan Pasha once again demonstrates his ability to translate perfume history into a contemporary language. From the very first sniff, the extrait plunges you into the glamour of the 1950s, bridging the impeccable elegance of Jacques Fath’s Iris Gris with the cheerful, next-door freshness of Helena Rubinstein’s Apple Blossom. The effect is that of a morning walk through lilac-lined avenues in bloom—refined yet effortlessly alive. More than a mere quotation, Irisoir feels like the distilled essence of chic itself. @sultanpashaperfumes @sultanpasha78
Meo Fusciuni Isola (Giuseppe Imprezzabile): With Isola, Meo Fusciuni offers us the brightest chapter in his olfactory poetry. The fragrance bridges two places central to his imagination—Japan and Sicily—through their emblematic fruits, yuzu and lemon, while paying homage to Edmond Roudnitska’s Eau Sauvage. The opening is thirst-quenching, like a glass of freshly squeezed lemonade on a scorching afternoon at the port of Mazara del Vallo, crossed with the sparkle of yuzu soda sipped in a shaded Tokyo street. This luminosity is sustained by dewy neroli and lavender, supported by a subtly floral heart that smooths the edges. The drydown unfolds into a savory herbal-tea trail, so meditative that it moved me to tears when I first sampled it. @guiseppe_ Imprezzabile @meofusciuni_parfums
D:SOL MMXVI Làdano (Delphine Thierry): With Làdano, labdanum reveals its most plush, intimate side. The composition opens with an unexpected brightness before settling into a warm, textured core where vegetal, honeyed, and softly spiced facets interlace with natural ease. Rather than building through contrast, the fragrance gains density and warmth without ever becoming heavy.
The drydown is where Làdano truly distinguishes itself: a rich, softly smoky amber that feels tactile and enveloping, more like a halo than a punch. It is this unexpected interpretation—playing with material texture and emotional restraint—that secured Làdano a place in my top ten perfumes of 2025. @dsolperfumes @inspiration. libre
Agarthi Magnetic Maze (Julien Rasquinet): Agarthi Scent Core’s Magnetic Maze translates the idea of attraction into an original composition inspired by bees and their instinctive sensitivity to the Earth’s magnetic field. Radiant mimosa opens the fragrance, quickly warmed by saffron and labdanum, creating a golden, subtly hypnotic atmosphere. At the heart, a CPL Aromas captive honey accord adds depth and captivation, before a dark, leathery oud melts seamlessly into the skin. Magnetic Maze stood out in 2025 for its unexpected approach to oud—unfolding raw sensuality and hypnotic beauty while never falling into cliché. (Disclosure: I was the evaluator and involved in its creation) @agarthi_scentcore @julienrasquinet
Antonio Alessandria Parfums Pluvia Sacra (Antonio Alessandro):Pluvia Sacra draws inspiration from the Sicilian legend of the Crocifisso della Pioggia yet wisely avoids any “churchy” shorthand. The opening evokes a drenched volcanic landscape, where citrus and sharp greenery are made vivid by moisture and mineral tension. A subtle almondy powder then unfolds at the heart, softened by discreet white floral hints, like calm settling after thunder. The base reveals the restrained warmth of amyris, amber, and a gentle veil of vanilla. Pluvia Sacra wears meditative and poised, offering a sensation of stillness—something that felt deeply necessary in 2025. @antonio_alessandria_parfums
Anthologie by Lucien Ferrero Rose Abricot (Lucien Ferrero): Rose Abricot is among the most successful rose interpretations of the year. Far from a generic fruity-floral, the composition captures the essence of the rose in its full spectrum with almost photorealistic precision. The lychee-tinged brightness of Bulgarian rose intertwines with the jammy depth of Turkish rose and osmanthus, unfolding like a play of color and texture—from rose-gold outer petals to a warmer, apricot-hued heart. A discreet whisper of thorny greenery keeps the structure taut, ensuring a refined balance between floral clarity, acidulated fruit, and opulence. Rose Abricot stood out in 2025 for its masterful translation of graceful elegance to scent. @kaondistribution @lucienferreroparfums
Maison Spoturno 1921 (Christopher Sheldrake: With 1921, Véronique Spoturno channels her family heritage into a fragrance that feels both impeccably crafted and strikingly alive. The perfume opens with bright yet plush citrus before unfolding into a lush heart of rose and orange blossom flowing like a silk satin train, catching the light in almost hypnotic glimmers. The seamless evolution perfectly captures the spirit of 1920s, deepening into a velvety amber enriched with sandalwood, smoky vanilla, and resins blurred by powdery musks. Glamorously balancing sparkle and opulence, 1921 goes beyond a lesson in perfume history while remaining entirely wearable. To me, it feels like going back to basics—done right. maison.spoturno @veronique.spoturno @christopher.sheldrake
For our top ten perfumes of 2025 Part 2 Giveaways
photo by Neela Vermeire©
With Love from NVC Creations and the wonderful Neela Vermeire a 60 ml tester of Eshal EU only, for one registered reader. You must register or your entry will not count.
Thanks to Etat Libre d’Orange we have a 100 ml bottle of Above The Waves for one registered reader in the USA or EU You must register or your entry will not count.
Thanks to the generosity of Kaon we have a 100 ml Anthologie by Lucien Ferraro Rose Abricot bottle for one registered reader in the EU. You must register or your entry will not count.
From the gracious Marc-Antoine Barrois,100 ml of ALDEBARAN EU or USA, for one registered reader. You must register here
Let us know what you think of our Top 10 Perfumes of 2025. What sparked your interest? What do you want to try or have tried, where you live and which you would like to win, (check eligibility). Please pull a quote or a line that resonated. Draw closes 12/31/2025
Now that’s a wrap for Ermano and me. We hope you enjoyed our top ten perfumes of 2025 and Best Fragrances of 2025. Remember there are draws you can enter for Kajal Topaz and Sarah Baker Velvet Vendetta. Tomorrow, we pass the scent baton to Ida and to Wearescentient.
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