Celebrating 20 Years of Escentric Molecules: Exclusive Interview with Geza Schöen + Breaking the Rules Giveaway

Escentric Molecules Molecules M01 and Escentric 01

Celebrating 20 Years of Escentric Molecules photo courtesy of the brand

When an interview doesn’t include a rambling introduction, you know it’s going to be great. This doesn’t and it is. If niche perfumery didn’t have a talented trail blazer like Geza Schöen, it would have to invent one. For those who have been with Escentric Molecules from its launch in 2006 and for those just discovering the magic of Iso E Super, Geza Schöen answered my questions about how the true story unfolded and why Escentric Molecules is an iconoclast twenty years later. -Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Twenty years ago, did you imagine that Molecule 01 and Escentric 01 would come to be regarded as benchmark avant-garde classics?

Geza Schoen perfumer for Escentric Molecules

Geza Schöen of Escentric Molecules

Geza Schöen: Definitely not. Back then, niche brands barely existed, unless you count Creed or Penhaligon’s as real contenders. What we introduced was something genuinely new and different, and over time it naturally found its place and became what you’d now call a modern classic.

Escentric Molecules Molecule 01

Escentric Molecules Molecule 01

When I wear Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, it seems to appear and disappear. Sometimes I can’t smell it at all, even though others can. Why is that?

Geza Schöen: The sheer physical perception of M01 is unlike almost any other ingredient we use in perfumery. You catch a whiff, it smells great, you want more and then you can’t seem to get it into your nose again. The receptor is still blocked, and Iso E Super just sits there for minutes… sometimes half an hour, even an hour, before you can experience it again.

Was Escentric Molecules Escentric 01 the first fragrance to use ISO E Super as the main or sole aromatic material?

Geza Schöen: No, Halston’s first women’s fragrance used around 8% Iso E Super in what was otherwise a fairly classic rose–patchouli structure, and it was stunningly beautiful.

Please share your “Aha” moment with ISO E Super

Geza Schöen launched Escentric Molecules in 2006

 Geza in his Lab

Geza Schöen: Actually, there are two. The first goes back to August 1990, when I smelled Iso E Super for the very first time. I took a sample and gave it to a friend to wear on its own, nothing else. We were standing in a bar in our hometown for about ten minutes when a woman came over and said, “Who smells so nice here?” We got talking, and she mentioned that the two fragrances she loved and wore most were Fahrenheit and Trésor, two completely different perfumes, yet united by one thing: Iso E Super. It makes up around 25% of Fahrenheit and about 20% of Trésor.

The second moment came during an appointment with Daniela Rinaldi, who was the head buyer at Harvey Nichols at the time. It was a Friday afternoon after a long week. She tried Iso E Super on her skin but couldn’t really smell it, and felt it wasn’t strong enough. The meeting ended quickly, and she probably forgot all about it until her cab driver complimented her on her scent. Then it happened twice more within the next hour. By the end of it, she was overwhelmed by the reaction. She called us on Monday morning and, essentially, bought everything we had left.

For those who have smelled it, how would you describe the aroma?

Geza Schöen: Well, Iso E Super has a very woody character overall, probably closest to the smell of a clean cedarwood oil. But it vibrates like no other ingredient. It moves. It’s mesmerizing, yet olfactorily sophisticated. It feels velvety and cocooning at the same time and it’s even been shown to stimulate one of our pheromone receptors.

What is the difference between Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 and Escentric 01?

Escentric Molecules Escentric 01

Escentric Molecules Escentric 01

Geza Schöen: That’s easy: Molecule 01 is the aroma chemical in a bottle, nothing else. Escentric 01 is my homage to the molecule itself. Sixty-five percent of the formula is Iso E Super, and the remaining 35% is there to wrap the molecule in what I consider its best possible shape. There are other woody notes, some balsamic touches; it’s powdery, musky, and a little fresh at the start, with just lime and pink pepper.

Back then, 20 years ago, these kinds of fragrances didn’t really exist. We’re still here, and there’s more to come.

Paul White (Creative Director) of Escentric Molecules with Perfumer Geza Schöen 

Paul White (Creative Director) of Escentric Molecules with Perfumer Geza Schöen 

“To celebrate the 20th anniversary of Escentric Molecules, we’re excited to share the new 200ml editions of Molecule 01 and Escentric 01, featuring clean architectural design, anodized aluminum caps, and the same minimalist DNA that made Molecule 01 a modern icon. These will stay in the collection! “A note from the brand

Enjoy Escentric Molecules Journal Post on the 20th anniversary of Escentric Molecules here

Escentric 01 travel set

Thanks to amazing team at Escentric Molecules to celebrate 20 years, we have a Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 (3x 8ml) set for one registered reader in the USA only. To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Michelyn’s interview with Geza Schöen for the 20th Anniversary of Escentric Molecules, and what sparked your interest/or what did you learn from Geza’s answers. Draw closes 12/25/2025

Molecule 01 is a ÇaFleureBon Modern Masterpiece. More here. Please read Michelyn’s interview with Geza Schöen Escentric Molecules M+ Collection and Senior Editor J Wearescentient review of M+ Cistus. J’s review of M+ Black Tea here, Karl’s review of M+ Ginger and M+ Iris. Please watch Video Contributor Steven Gavriolatos’s Black Tea and Guaiac Wood and Ginger

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25 comments

  • TheScentedPage says:

    What I enjoyed most about Michelyn’s interview with Geza Schöen was how open and reflective he was about the 20 year journey of Escentric Molecules. His clarity about why he trusted a single molecule to carry an entire fragrance reminded me why his work feels so groundbreaking.

    I was especially struck by his acknowledgment that Halston used 8% Iso E Super in his first women’s fragrance. I never knew that, and it completely reframed how I think about the molecule’s history. It made Geza’s decision to spotlight Iso E Super feel even more intentional. He recognized a quiet legacy and pushed it into the spotlight.

    What I learned most from the interview was how deeply he values instinct, simplicity, and transparency in perfumery. His perspective made me appreciate the brand’s philosophy on a whole new level.

    Alabama, USA

  • Jeffrey F says:

    Love this review – incredible way to showcase a single ingredient and now the + range showing the versatility of iso e super. Live in USA.

  • Brad Woolslayer says:

    I’ve tested hundreds of fragrances, and very few have had the effect on women like Molecule 01. I love Geza Schoen’s description of the scent and how it actually stimulates a pheromone receptor. I live in Maryland USA.

  • RH says:

    The blurb about Daniela Rinaldi doing a total 180 within an hour made me smile. I’ve always been curious about this scent but never had the chance to sample it.

    I’m in the USA.

  • Agent47 says:

    Michelyn Camen’s interview with Geza Schöen is a sharp, engaging celebration of Escentric Molecules’ 20‑year legacy. Her questions are focused and intuitive, giving Geza the perfect space to share his creative philosophy with clarity and depth.

    What stood out most in Geza’s answers was his ability to explain the magic of minimalism—how a single molecule can feel both subtle and magnetic. His reflections on why these compositions resonate emotionally gave me a deeper appreciation for the artistry behind the brand.

    As someone with an extensive collection of Escentric Molecules, I’ve always loved how the fragrances feel effortless yet commanding on my skin. Hearing Geza articulate the intention behind that effect made the entire interview even more rewarding.

    This interview is essential reading for both devoted fans and curious newcomers. Michelyn and Geza crafted a conversation that celebrates the brand’s past while offering an exciting glimpse of its future. I finished it feeling inspired, informed, and even more connected to Escentric Molecules’ unconventional vision. Scented regards from NY, USA.

  • Jeff Hunter says:

    Also a fan of Fahrenheit I didn’t know ISO E Super was a prominent component.
    Geza, I don’t love everything you’ve combined with 01 but I will say your average is pretty darned good. The Mandarin, Ginger, Guiac & Cistus combinations are amazing.
    The rest are good, but for some reason don’t fire on all cylinders for me.
    Eager to see what you do with the other molecules in the future.
    Thanks!

  • Melissa says:

    I love learning how a fragrance came into being, and the thought processes behind making it both beautiful and unique. Molecule 1 has been on my wish list for literally years. It might have to be my Christmas present to myself this year! Melissa in Kentucky

  • opalbear says:

    I found it fascinating that Tresor and Fahrenheit both had such a high amount in their recipe. It’s such an odd experience smelling and then suddenly not off and on with a perfume. I have really appreciate Gaza’s work in this house and others, he has a clarity and ingenuity in his creations. I haven’t tried just the Molecule 01 but I have and liked the Black Tea and +Iris blend. Thank you for the generous giveaway. I am located in the U.S.

  • mmerline says:

    Interesting that Geza knew he was onto something “genuinely new and different” right away, even though it would take a while to ripple through the industry. I wasn’t familiar with Halston’s use of Iso E Super, or that Fahrenheit and Trésor dosed it so heavily, and I want to compare some of the Eccentric Molecules against one of those less monochromatic fragrances. I also need to Eccentric 01 a try—I think I missed it when sampling M+ Ginger, M+ Black Tea, and M+ Iris. Thanks for the informative interview.

    I’m in the USA.

  • reyessence89 says:

    I have heard Geza Schoen recount the origin of Molecule 01, and I kept thinking how serendipitous the discovery was, in the sense that the bystanders who commented positively were able to smell the scent! It is well known that there are individuals that are anosmic to Iso E Super. Imagine how different the story would have been if the woman at the bar and the cab driver had been anosmic… I did wonder what his friend thought about wearing Iso E Super. Why didn’t Geza wear it himself?
    NE, US.

  • Ensorceler says:

    What a fantastic read! I loved how Michelyn got straight to the essence of what makes both Geza Schöen and Escentric Molecules so unique. No fluff, just pure insight from a master of modern perfumery. What really struck me was Geza’s explanation of Iso E Super’s elusive nature. That “now you smell it, now you don’t” magic makes so much sense after hearing him describe the way our receptors react. I’ve always admired how Escentric Molecules creates fragrances that feel like an extension of skin rather than something sitting on top of it, and “Molecule 01” captures that sensation beautifully.

    It’s inspiring to hear how this once-radical idea of showcasing a single molecule evolved into an avant-garde classic. I walked away with a deeper appreciation of how visionary Geza was, and still is, in making molecular minimalism feel so sensual and human.

    – USA –

  • Steven A says:

    From the answers I learned a bit more why the perfume seems to appear and disappear when wearing. US

  • Silvia says:

    Thanks Michelin for this interview with Geza Schoen. I have M + Iris and love it. All these years I never tried the 01 but I did ask someone at a party what they were wearing, and sure enough it was Molecule 01. This is a great chance to try it on me. USA

  • Monika says:

    did not know the history of these scents and how it all started. And that so many other classic scents had so much of ISO-E Super in the formula. I have learnt a lot from this interview.

    I am in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • xoe says:

    I’ve long been fascinated by Escentric Molecules. How interesting to find out how Geza’s fascination with E Super began. I am in the US.

  • Amy L. says:

    I was not aware that Iso E Super was in other fragrances before the release of Molecule 01. I think it’s interesting how people (1) like Molecule 01 or (2) can’t smell it. It is such a universally appealing scent, and all the additions (plus series, Escentric line, etc) are very successful. Geza providing insight on how it came to be was really interesting, and I’m glad it is still being expanded in a thoughtful way.

  • tashtash says:

    Remembering my first experiences with these scents when they came out and they were genuinely surprising, and wearing them now I still have the fun discovery (especially when they “go away” for a while!).

  • Annika says:

    I’m one of those fortunate people whose body chemistry loves IsoE Super. It really works well as a comforting, slightly woody skin scent on me and I usually have no issues with projection. I had no idea that Halston was the first fragrance to use the note back in the 1970s. I certainly can see why given its elegance and simplicity.MD, USA

  • Usama says:

    Molecule 01’s “disappearing” effect happens because Iso E Super temporarily saturates your scent receptors, making you go nose-blind while others can still smell it clearly. Escentric 01 builds on that single molecule by wrapping it in complementary notes, while Molecule 01 is pure Iso E Super—minimal, vibrating, and uniquely reactive on skin.

    Missouri, USA

  • Marci L says:

    Cool to hear the history behind this scent. I didn’t know the details and wasn’t aware that Iso E super was avaliable unmixed. I would be very curious to smell it alone.

  • Marcia L says:

    Cool to hear the history behind this scent. I didn’t know the details and wasn’t aware that Iso E super was avaliable unmixed. I would be very curious to smell it alone.

  • LightOfJoy says:

    I’m not entering the giveaway, but I just want to say thank you. This box set is such a huge gift to perfume enthusiasts. It’s an easy and accessible way to identify different aromachemicals to grow in knowledge and experience with our hobby. We can then see how they are incorporated into a finished perfume for comparison (and enjoyment).

  • Danniel says:

    The moment with the head buyer at Harvey Nichols just goes to show how much power there is behind a simple compliment. I’m wearing Molecule 01 + Cistus today as my first experience with the brand and I’m really enjoying it so far. I’m in the USA

  • David F says:

    Merry Christmas and a happy 20th anniversary to celebrate molecule’s creation. I have very minimal experience with it but one scent I really liked that had it was Hermes eau fraiche. The woody warm and a subtle glow of it’s presence is kinda back and forth. Most say it boosts performance but the faint nuance is definitely something outside of the norm. The house not only put molecule on the map it showed how somewhat simple scents done right can outperform the ultra complex and over the top designer and niche scents. Would love to add the set to my collection and make a clearer distinction for myself. Thank you for the opportunity, from USA.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the fascinating interview and celebration feature! Reading about 20 years of Escentric Molecules and Geza Schoen’s creative philosophy really resonated — especially his playful yet thoughtful approach to scent that challenges conventions and invites curiosity. I loved how he talks about stripping fragrance down to its essence, exploring materials like Iso E Super and now cistus without relying on traditional structures, which feels like both science and art in motion. It made me appreciate how perfume can be experiential and evocative in ways words can only begin to describe. I’d love to explore more of Geza’s creations!
    Cheers from WI, USA