ABEL Pink Iris (Isaac Sinclair and Dr. Fanny Grau) 2025 + Radical Fragrance Giveaway

Abel Pink Iris reformulated

ABEL Pink Iris 2025 courtesy of the brand

“The result of our reformulation is elevated strength and longevity. In a world where reformulation means cutting corners, we’re increasing the concentration and quality of our 100% natural perfume.”~ Frances Shoemack, founder and creative director of ABEL.

Abel Founder Frances Shoemack

 photo by Ana Kraš.
We’ve surprised even ourselves at what we’ve been able to achieve with this reformulation. The scents remain bold and nuanced, but now with more lasting power.” ~ Isaac Sinclair, master perfumer

Frances Shoemack, Fanny Grau, Isaac Sinclair of ABEL

 photo by Ana Kraš

The New Zealand all-natural brand ABEL was founded by former winemaker Frances Shoemack, in collaboration with in-house perfumers Isaac Sinclair and Dr. Fanny Grau (husband and wife) under the name Abel Vita Odor. It has been 12 years since their debut – and this already ecologically-aware house has created a blueprint for the future of fragrance and evolved to an advanced level of sustainability and lowest carbon emissions/recyclable packaging. Abel originated in their native New Zealand; it has since expanded to Amsterdam and New York City – and a wider audience as well.

Pink Iris by Abel

Via ABEL Website

In ABEL’s quest for a more eco-friendly result, they labored for three years, implementing advanced biotechnology to increase their existing fragrances’ lasting power and strength (by 37%); developed readily recyclable bespoke French flacons (composed of 11% previously utilized glass), packaging which was 100% biodegradable – and accompanied by completely compostable caps. This (amongst multiple other factors) is what founder Frances Shoemack refers to when she describes her line as “radical fragrance.”

Abel Pink Iris

Via ABEL Website

ABEL’s reimagined Pink Iris has extended longevity in comparison with its eponymous predecessor, but its soul has remained intact. It is a fragrant wraith which hovers above the skin with diaphanous delicacy: a beautifully balanced, intricate floral punctuated by a quartet of citrus tones, subtle herbalcy, and spice seated atop a botanically musky and resinous cushion. The dash of Sichuan pepper, allied with basil and the floral/herbal soothing presence of linalool (present in lavender, basil, rosewood, hops, and multiple fruits and flowers) and methyl anthranilate (a grapelike aroma which complements jasmine, orange blossom, and tuberose) creates a compelling first impression. The perfumers engage in several instances of scented synergy as well: the combining of honeyed, rosy phenylethyl acetate (derived from apple) with rose absolute; ionone beta with violet leaf absolute, orris butter concrete, carrot seed oil, and even heliotrope. Each of these help to flesh out the chosen aromatic materials and impart nuance. I deeply appreciate Isaac Sinclair and Fanny Grau’s thoughtful choices and their combined efficacy which is apparent throughout the entire composition of Pink Iris – the base, for example. Resinous vanillin and benzoin are wed to ambrettolide (botanical musk, certainly – but also redolent of a powdery, musky floralcy which pairs well with orris); cabreuva oil (a potent fixative with a sweet, woody, slightly metallic edge), and ambroxan – a natural component of ambergris which prolongs longevity, in addition to contributing an ambery scent. Each component exhibits its purpose – all the while blending harmoniously, symmetrically – with finesse. This deft sleight-of-hand results in a comforting, cocoon-like perfume which is very approachable and easy to wear. Pink Iris is an impressive olfactory achievement.

Notes: Sichuan pepper, bergamot oil, basil oil, grapefruit oil, lemon oil, citronellol, linalool, methyl anthranilate, phenylethyl acetate, carrot seed oil, heliotrope eo, ionone beta, orris butter concrete, rose absolute, jasmine absolute, violet leaf absolute, cabreuva oil, ambrettolide, ambroxan, benzoin Siam absolute, tonka bean absolute, vanillin

Bottle kindly offered for review by brand – many thanks! My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Abel Pink Iris

Thanks to the generosity of ABEL and Frances Shoemack we have a 50ml bottle of Pink Iris for one registered reader in the US, OR EU, OR UK. YOU MUST REGISTER OR YOU COMMENT WILL NOT BE ELIGIBLE. Please leave a comment about what strikes you about Ida’s review,  sustainability and where you live. Draw closes 11/29/2025

Editor’s Note: ABEL is a 100 PERCENT NATURAL house and was chosen as a ÇaFleureBon winner for the best natural perfume of 2018, by Michelyn. Black Anise (now entitled Coat Check) was Michelyn’s and Ermano’s Best Natural Perfume of 2023, a Best of Scent 2023 for Ermano and Michelyn. As reported by Ermano Picco in 2017, Isaac Sinclair was a pupil of Maurice Roucel. Golden Neroli was featured in our Best of CaFleureBon 2017 perfumes by Ermano.

Please read Cafleurebon reviews of ABEL, Cobalt Amber, Red Santal and Green Cedar by the late Senior Editor, Emeritus Robert Hermann, Nurture and Cyan Nori. Enjoy former Contributor Danu’s reviews of OG Pink Iris, Laundry Day Grey Labdanum, White Vetiver, and The Apartment.

Please follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @idameister@abelfragrance @francesshoemack

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41 comments

  • It sounds so comforting and fluffy!
    Would love to add this cocoon to spray to my collection…
    Best wishes from Germany!

  • The newest incarnation of Pink Iris retains the DNA of the original: an intricate blend of florals with citrus, herbaceous notes, spices, musk and resins. It is a reformulation that doesn’t lessen the creation but instead retains the essence of the original while remaining bold and nuanced with a longer longevity.
    USA

  • I love the idea of reformulating for sustainability and being more thoughtful about everything from ingredients to packaging. These notes sound lovely!

    USA

  • Sorohan Adriana says:

    A powdery musky vanilla floral fragrance perfect for highlighting femininity. I am from EU

  • Sorohan Adriana says:

    A powdery musky vanilla floral fragrance perfect for highlighting femininity. I am from EU

  • Ida’s review highlights ABEL’s impressive commitment to true sustainability—boosting natural perfume strength and longevity by 37% without any petrochemicals. The brand achieves a significant reduction in its carbon footprint while delivering fragrances that are luxurious and high-performing. ABEL’s transparent, thoughtful approach sets a new standard for what sustainable fragrance can be. It’s a fresh, radical example of beauty with purpose.

    – USA –

  • Very interested that it has a Grapeish aroma with iris. It sounds very interesting. In in Charlotte NC btw.

  • Pink iris sounds like a comforting, beautifully crafted and highly wearable – and I love Abel’s sustainable approach in using all organic ingredients.

    Thank you for the giveaway.
    I’m from the EU

  • Everything about this review excited and interested me, and the descriptions of the individual scents and aspects thrilled me! Diaphanous delicacy, INDEED. Melissa USA

  • Nuvare Aenra says:

    This review is fascinating on two fronts. Firstly, the commitment to sustainability is genuinely impressive. In an industry rife with greenwashing, a brand going to such lengths using 11% post-consumer glass, 100% biodegradable packaging, and a three-year R&D process to improve a natural formula feels truly radical. It sets a new standard for what eco-luxury can be. Secondly, the technical breakdown of the scent is incredibly insightful. The explanation of how specific molecules like ambrettolide and ambroxan work with raw materials like orris butter to create a “cocoon-like” perfume is exactly what I find compelling. It demystifies natural perfumery and shows the profound skill required to achieve both longevity and delicate beauty. This review makes Pink Iris sound like a milestone in modern, conscious perfumery.
    EU

  • AromaAdventurer says:

    What truly captures my attention here is the tangible progress in natural perfumery. The fact that they focused on increasing concentration and longevity by 37% is a game-changer. So often, “natural” has meant “ephemeral,” but this review suggests Abel has cracked the code. The specific note of Sichuan pepper and basil alongside the iris also sounds incredibly innovative. It seems to promise a floral that isn’t soft or powdery, but rather has a spicy, aromatic vibrancy from the start. This, combined with the deep commitment to a circular economy, makes Pink Iris feel like a fragrance from the future. I am from EU

  • I love mixing science and perfumery as a chem eng with a perfume hobby. It was a delight reading about the biotech aspect of creating this fragrance, and the result which sounds lovely and sustainable. I love pink genre of fragrances, this sure sounds pretty. Im from eu.

  • This scent sounds beautifully complex but balanced. I also love the eco-friendly principles ABEL has commited to achieving.
    USA

  • Ida’s review beautifully captures how Abel’s 2025 Pink Iris keeps its delicate, diaphanous soul while gaining real strength and 37% more longevity, all through cutting-edge biotech and 100% natural ingredients. What strikes me most is that this is the rare reformulation that actually improves performance without compromise, wrapped in radically sustainable packaging (recycled glass, biodegradable everything). True eco-luxury that smells like the future.
    I live in Poland, EU

  • I love it when a fragrance house acts on its ethical convictions. I’m also a huge iris fan, so I’m betting I’d love Pink Iris. Ida’s recognition of the balance and the nuance seals the deal.

    Thanks to Ida for this compelling review!

    I remain in the vibrant city of Chicago, IL, USA.

  • Oh I love an iris and love violet too. And I love an all natural perfume. These notes are perfect with Jasmine and heliotrope, rose etc. And the benzoin, tonka and carrot seed. Oof I’d like to try this. Abel is a great house.
    I am located in California, thank you for the generous giveaway.

  • I very much appreciate the clarity provided at the opening of the article because we do associate a reformulation with lesser quality. Abel took that and flipped the script by actually making the fragrances even longer lasting without changing the smell. Technology and what we’re able to accomplish for a good cause is something to applaud. Newer brands are opting for the natural route because they’re harmless without now compromising quality. Pink Iris is a mix of a freshie with some florals and a very long lasting one at that. This is definitely a house to watch for and see what other groundbreaking scents they come up with. I’m located in the US.

  • What really strikes me about Ida’s review is how she shows this reformulation as the opposite of what we usually brace for. Most of the time “new formula” means watered down, cheaper, and less character. Here, she makes it clear that Pink Iris has actually gained strength and longevity while staying true to its original soul, using smarter tech and materials instead of shortcuts. The way she breaks down the note synergies, like phenylethyl acetate with rose, ionone beta with orris and violet leaf, and that ambrettolide/benzoin/vanillin base – makes it sound less like a simple “pretty floral” and more like a carefully engineered natural composition that still feels soft, wearable, and cocoon-like.

    On the sustainability side, the level of intent impresses me: three years of work, 100% natural, biotech to boost performance by 37%, flacons with recycled glass, fully biodegradable packaging, and even compostable caps. That feels less like branding and more like a serious attempt to build a modern model for perfume that doesn’t treat eco-consciousness as an afterthought. I also like that Ida calls it “radical fragrance” not because it’s loud or edgy, but because of how far they push the ethics and materials without sacrificing beauty or wearability.

    Pink Iris now reads to me as a kind of proof-of-concept that naturals can be nuanced, long-lasting, and genuinely luxurious while still respecting the planet. That combination of technical rigor, artistry, and sustainability is exactly what makes me want to try it.

    I live in the USA.

  • All the work that went into this scent and improving, or, reducing, really, its impact on the earth was interesting to learn about. AND, or sounds so yummy and wonderful, with all these notes that I love. Thank you for the review and the generous draw. In the US.

  • All the work that went into this scent and improving, or, reducing, really, its impact on the earth was interesting to learn about. AND, or sounds so yummy and wonderful, with all these notes that I love. Thank you for the review and the generous draw. In the US.

  • Like it was mentioned at the beginning, now is indeed a time where everyone seems to cut corners when needed to reformulate. I applaud Abel for their approach and it’s amazing that they have spent so much time to work on this perfume. What I am reading on how they have chosen and blended the ingredients to create the perfume it’s really stepping up from what is the perfume world in nowadays.
    I love iris and this concoction sounds appealing to me!
    Regarding the packaging, there are brands that focus on appealing boxes and some that have a plain box. I get the appeal to have a beautiful box, but then again I keep the boxes hidden away, so in the end it doesn’t really matter. If they have made packaging which was 100% biodegradable it’s fine, a plus for their purpose.
    Thanks for this, I am from the EU.

  • wonderscent.mari says:

    Thanks for the nice writeup Ida! I’m not familiar with this house, but i found quite inspiring that they stay loyal to true sustainability, which I wish many future houses will do in the future. Its also impressive that they achieved to boost the natural perfume strength and longevity by 37% and developed a more thoughtful eco friendly new packaging!
    As for Pink Iris what strikes me more is that there is something cozy and contemporary about it. I am very intrigued by the herbal fresh opening of basil and pepper note combined with the soothing linalool and the grapelike aroma of methyl anthranilate (sth that i have never heard before!). A unique take on delicate Floral bouquet for sure! I’d love to get my nose on this one.
    Thank you for the opportunity to participate in this wonderful giveaway! I’m from Europe

  • It is a fragrant wraith which hovers above the skin with diaphanous delicacy: a beautifully balanced, intricate floral punctuated by a quartet of citrus tones, subtle herbalcy, and spice seated atop a botanically musky and resinous cushion. The dash of Sichuan pepper, allied with basil and the floral/herbal soothing presence of linalool (present in lavender, basil, rosewood, hops, and multiple fruits and flowers) and methyl anthranilate (a grapelike aroma which complements jasmine, orange blossom, and tuberose) creates a compelling first impression. The perfumers engage in several instances of scented synergy as well: the combining of honeyed, rosy phenylethyl acetate (derived from apple) with rose absolute; ionone beta with violet leaf absolute, orris butter concrete, carrot seed oil, and even heliotrope. Each of these help to flesh out the chosen aromatic materials and impart nuance. I deeply appreciate Isaac Sinclair and Fanny Grau’s thoughtful choices and their combined efficacy which is apparent throughout the entire composition of Pink Iris – the base, for example. Resinous vanillin and benzoin are wed to ambrettolide (botanical musk, certainly – but also redolent of a powdery, musky floralcy which pairs well with orris); cabreuva oil (a potent fixative with a sweet, woody, slightly metallic edge), and ambroxan – a natural component of ambergris which prolongs longevity, in addition to contributing an ambery scent. Each component exhibits its purpose – all the while blending harmoniously, symmetrically – with finesse. This deft sleight-of-hand results in a comforting, cocoon-like perfume which is very approachable and easy to wear. Pink Iris is an impressive olfactory achievement.

    Notes: Sichuan pepper, bergamot oil, basil oil, grapefruit oil, lemon oil, citronellol, linalool, methyl anthranilate, phenylethyl acetate, carrot seed oil, heliotrope eo, ionone beta, orris butter concrete, rose absolute, jasmine absolute, violet leaf absolute, cabreuva oil, ambrettolide, ambroxan, benzoin Siam absolute, tonka bean absolute, vanillin. I am really intrigued by the notes especially rose absolute, violet leaf absolute and Sichuan pepper. This is a house that I have got experience with but I can’t wait to explore it further. Thanks a million from the UK

  • perfumers engage in several instances of scented synergy as well: the combining of honeyed, rosy phenylethyl acetate (derived from apple) with rose absolute; ionone beta with violet leaf absolute, orris butter concrete, carrot seed oil, and even heliotrope. Each of these help to flesh out the chosen aromatic materials and impart nuance. I deeply appreciate Isaac Sinclair and Fanny Grau’s thoughtful choices and their combined efficacy which is apparent throughout the entire composition of Pink Iris – the base, for example. Resinous vanillin and benzoin are wed to ambrettolide (botanical musk, certainly – but also redolent of a powdery, musky floralcy which pairs well with orris); cabreuva oil (a potent fixative with a sweet, woody, slightly metallic edge), and ambroxan – a natural component of ambergris which prolongs longevity, in addition to contributing an ambery scent. Each component exhibits its purpose – all the while blending harmoniously, symmetrically – with finesse. This deft sleight-of-hand results in a comforting, cocoon-like perfume which is very approachable and easy to wear. Pink Iris is an impressive olfactory achievement. This is a house that has been on my radar was intrigued to try Grey labdanum and Black Anise but never got to I am afraid. But really fascinated by the use of naturals and spices and musks. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • I always appreciate Ida’s thoughtful reviews that a person can nearly smell off the screen, and Pink Iris is no exception. After a quick scan of the description that initially made me hesitate (“Reformulation? And there are just so. many. notes…” a closer read of the review now has me convinced this is a fragrance I will almost certainly love. Thank you, Ida, Ca Fleur Bon, and ABEL!

  • Shibuichi2000 says:

    Ida’s review highlights how ABEL uses advanced biotechnology to enhance the longevity of its natural fragrances without losing their character and presents sustainability as central to the brand, through low impact ingredients, recyclable and biodegradable packaging, and carefully chosen formulation.
    I can only imagine Pink Iris being beautifully intricate, balancing the floral notes, delicate yet bold. Its thoughtful blending of natural ingredients and their botanical counterparts make it sound light, comforting, easy to wear, but at the same time, offering depth and nuance.

  • Amazing how they evolved to an advanced level of sustainability and lowest carbon emissions/recyclable packaging.
    I love Ida’s description of the perfume as a beautifully balanced, intricate floral punctuated by a quartet of citrus tones, subtle herbalcy, and spice seated atop a botanically musky and resinous cushion.”
    EU

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the beautiful and bold review! Abel Pink Iris feels like a soft rebellion in a garden full of rules—iris and pink pepper open with a whisper of powdery elegance and a gentle spark, then violet and geranium petals drift in like a hazy twilight veil. The warmth of cedar and a soft base of musk and ambergris anchor everything just enough to keep it wearable yet expressive. I love how it balances delicate floral restraint with a quietly radical softness. I’d love to try Pink Iris!
    Cheers from WI, USA

  • Kassie Tocko says:

    i was SO excited to see this was being reviewed- i hear it’s beautiful & now, reading the review… it sounds even more beautiful! :). i loved reading about the different fragrance notes & how well they blend together to create something so divine! the reformulation sounds incredible & now, i am sitting here drooling over the fragrance even more! it just sounds incredible & i am such a sucker for iris! i am in the united states. thank you for the fragrance & review!

  • heathers1966 says:

    What captivated me most was the narrative depth of the review. The writer didn’t simply list the notes; they explored how each accord behaves, evolves, and interacts — turning citrus, spice, champagne, and coffee into characters in a living story. I loved the comparison to a champagne cocktail, which illuminated the fragrance’s structure in such a vivid, elegant way. And the historical, artistic framing of Nobile 1942 gave the scent a sense of lineage and soul. It sparked my interest because it made Il Colore del Vento feel both luxurious and intimate, like a whisper from a bygone era carried on a modern breeze.

    USA

  • I think this is the first time I’ve heard of a brand having compostable caps on their bottles so kudos to them for thinking up something I hadn’t even considered before. I’m becoming more interested in florals and looking for something that smells pink to go with my new pink shoes. Maybe this would fit the bill? I’m in the USA

  • I love the idea of natural perfumes, but as noted, they don’ t tend to last long. This sounds like wonderful pairing of beauty and longevity in a clean way that really excites interest. Plus the notes sound like something I would adore! I live in the US.

  • reyessence89 says:

    I was intrigued by ABEL being described as “all-natural” with some components clearly aromachemicals. I was wondering if “all-natural” refers to these aroma chemicals as used by ABEL purified from natural sources, or synthesised. I’m curious if there is a distinction. Kudos to ABEL for their efforts towards sustainability. It sounds like they’ve thought of everything! I live in NE, USA.

  • I always think of iris as a demure, elegant floral note. The iris in Pink Iris seems full of life. The blend of citrus, herbs, floral absolutes, musks and resins combine to form a long-lasting diaphanous fragrance. MD, USA

  • Ida intrigued me with her review; “Each component exhibits its purpose – all the while blending harmoniously, symmetrically – with finesse. This deft sleight-of-hand results in a comforting, cocoon-like perfume which is very approachable and easy to wear. Pink Iris is an impressive olfactory achievement.”
    EU

  • This sounds like a lovely iris. A “fragrant wraith” of an orris-centric perfume is very intriguing, especially with the herbal nuances and that unusual cabreuva oil in the base. There’s a lot going on here for a “comforting, cocoon-like perfume”.

    I’m in the USA.

  • HUGE fan of natural perfumery. I can’t get a clear idea of what this PINK Iris smells like, but it sounds very interesting. I really want to try it. I am in the US.

  • foreverscents says:

    I like supporting houses that are ecologically conscious. The aesthetic of Abel is very appealing, and of course, the fact that their fragrances are 100% natural, makes me want to support this house even more. Pink Iris, in its new reformulation, has many notes that sound comforting and harmonious. I love the amber notes.
    I live in the USA.

  • Kensolfactoryodyssey says:

    What struck me most about Ida’s review of ABEL Pink Iris is how she highlighted the reformulation as a rare case where sustainability doesn’t mean compromise—ABEL actually increased quality and longevity while staying true to their eco-focused philosophy. The way she described the perfume as both diaphanous and intricately constructed made the scent feel alive, and the use of biotechnology to strengthen a 100% natural fragrance is genuinely impressive. I love seeing sustainability treated as innovation rather than limitation. I live in the Bay Area, USA.