
ABEL Pink Iris 2025 courtesy of the brand
“The result of our reformulation is elevated strength and longevity. In a world where reformulation means cutting corners, we’re increasing the concentration and quality of our 100% natural perfume.”~ Frances Shoemack, founder and creative director of ABEL.

photo by Ana Kraš.
“We’ve surprised even ourselves at what we’ve been able to achieve with this reformulation. The scents remain bold and nuanced, but now with more lasting power.” ~ Isaac Sinclair, master perfumer

photo by Ana Kraš
The New Zealand all-natural brand ABEL was founded by former winemaker Frances Shoemack, in collaboration with in-house perfumers Isaac Sinclair and Dr. Fanny Grau (husband and wife) under the name Abel Vita Odor. It has been 12 years since their debut – and this already ecologically-aware house has created a blueprint for the future of fragrance and evolved to an advanced level of sustainability and lowest carbon emissions/recyclable packaging. Abel originated in their native New Zealand; it has since expanded to Amsterdam and New York City – and a wider audience as well.

Via ABEL Website
In ABEL’s quest for a more eco-friendly result, they labored for three years, implementing advanced biotechnology to increase their existing fragrances’ lasting power and strength (by 37%); developed readily recyclable bespoke French flacons (composed of 11% previously utilized glass), packaging which was 100% biodegradable – and accompanied by completely compostable caps. This (amongst multiple other factors) is what founder Frances Shoemack refers to when she describes her line as “radical fragrance.”

Via ABEL Website
ABEL’s reimagined Pink Iris has extended longevity in comparison with its eponymous predecessor, but its soul has remained intact. It is a fragrant wraith which hovers above the skin with diaphanous delicacy: a beautifully balanced, intricate floral punctuated by a quartet of citrus tones, subtle herbalcy, and spice seated atop a botanically musky and resinous cushion. The dash of Sichuan pepper, allied with basil and the floral/herbal soothing presence of linalool (present in lavender, basil, rosewood, hops, and multiple fruits and flowers) and methyl anthranilate (a grapelike aroma which complements jasmine, orange blossom, and tuberose) creates a compelling first impression. The perfumers engage in several instances of scented synergy as well: the combining of honeyed, rosy phenylethyl acetate (derived from apple) with rose absolute; ionone beta with violet leaf absolute, orris butter concrete, carrot seed oil, and even heliotrope. Each of these help to flesh out the chosen aromatic materials and impart nuance. I deeply appreciate Isaac Sinclair and Fanny Grau’s thoughtful choices and their combined efficacy which is apparent throughout the entire composition of Pink Iris – the base, for example. Resinous vanillin and benzoin are wed to ambrettolide (botanical musk, certainly – but also redolent of a powdery, musky floralcy which pairs well with orris); cabreuva oil (a potent fixative with a sweet, woody, slightly metallic edge), and ambroxan – a natural component of ambergris which prolongs longevity, in addition to contributing an ambery scent. Each component exhibits its purpose – all the while blending harmoniously, symmetrically – with finesse. This deft sleight-of-hand results in a comforting, cocoon-like perfume which is very approachable and easy to wear. Pink Iris is an impressive olfactory achievement.
Notes: Sichuan pepper, bergamot oil, basil oil, grapefruit oil, lemon oil, citronellol, linalool, methyl anthranilate, phenylethyl acetate, carrot seed oil, heliotrope eo, ionone beta, orris butter concrete, rose absolute, jasmine absolute, violet leaf absolute, cabreuva oil, ambrettolide, ambroxan, benzoin Siam absolute, tonka bean absolute, vanillin
Bottle kindly offered for review by brand – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Thanks to the generosity of ABEL and Frances Shoemack we have a 50ml bottle of Pink Iris for one registered reader in the US, OR EU, OR UK. YOU MUST REGISTER OR YOU COMMENT WILL NOT BE ELIGIBLE. Please leave a comment about what strikes you about Ida’s review, sustainability and where you live. Draw closes 11/29/2025
Editor’s Note: ABEL is a 100 PERCENT NATURAL house and was chosen as a ÇaFleureBon winner for the best natural perfume of 2018, by Michelyn. Black Anise (now entitled Coat Check) was Michelyn’s and Ermano’s Best Natural Perfume of 2023, a Best of Scent 2023 for Ermano and Michelyn. As reported by Ermano Picco in 2017, Isaac Sinclair was a pupil of Maurice Roucel. Golden Neroli was featured in our Best of CaFleureBon 2017 perfumes by Ermano.
Please read Cafleurebon reviews of ABEL, Cobalt Amber, Red Santal and Green Cedar by the late Senior Editor, Emeritus Robert Hermann, Nurture and Cyan Nori. Enjoy former Contributor Danu’s reviews of OG Pink Iris, Laundry Day Grey Labdanum, White Vetiver, and The Apartment.
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