Esxence Milano 2025 Masters of Dreams

Esxence Milano  2025 celebrated its15th anniversary last month! It’s astonishing to witness all the growth and changes which have occurred within the fragrance industry over the years. This event has transformed itself from a choice but small group of exhibitors to an ever-burgeoning smorgasbord of new brands, along with those which have withstood the test of time. This year Esxence was moved up a month, thereby coinciding with Fashion Week and a rather rowdy, contentious soccer match between the Milanese and the Dutch (the stadium is very close to MiCo); in other words, the town was fully abuzz in a maelstrom of activity. When we tally up the thousands who flocked to Milan out of pure passion for perfume, we experience a city within a city – an estimated 13,500 visitors to Esxence Milano 2025 alone.

Esxence Milano 2025 Ida smelling at The Different Company Love is Coming…Chapter II and Azhi Ardara. Ida©

Each visit differs from year to year, but certain elements remain the same: there is always an immense crush of exhibitors, distributors, content creators, influencers, photographers, writers, amateurs, and perfumers – with the final day open to the public at large. There are also many conferences/symposia offered, off-campus fragrance events (usually held in prestigious nearby hotels), and after-hours parties. This year was the first time that I did not attend these off-campus events.

It is customary to schedule appointments in advance in order to garner the full attention of a perfumer or creative director at a particular booth: unlike previous visits, I hesitated to do so because the conference list was not available until very late this year – and I try to attend as many of these as I possibly can. I felt fortunate that the larger portion of creatives appeared happy to see me and converse at length despite this fact. As my colleagues will willingly attest, over time close relationships develop – and this is a tremendous boon and pleasure.

 

 

Crème Ébène by Karl©

Trends at Esxence Milano 2025: I had mentioned earlier this year that extraits are hot right now, and that was certainly the case. Many brands have released more concentrated versions of their eaux de parfums, to the delight of the public. It came to my attention that in 2024 dates/dried fruits were very popular fragrance notes, and two specific Esxence highlights are excellent examples – Electimuss’ new Moroccan Medjool, and Nicolaï Parfumeur Createur’s suave Crème Ébène. Incense, ouds, leathers, and gourmands continue to flourish, and aren’t going to disappear at any time in the foreseeable future – nor are stone fruits such as peach and apricot (and more exotic ones such as guava and mango), which seem to retain a pronounced appeal.

 

Clayton Ilolahia at the conference “Fragrance Trends and Origin Stories” at Esxence Milano 2025 Ida©

As we are on the topic of trends – one of the most intriguing talks offered was “Fragrance Trends and Origin Stories”. Clayton Ilolahia is an astute and knowledgeable observer of the global fragrance market; he is Michael Edwards’ right hand man as regards Fragrances of the World, in charge of communication and evaluation – as well as a private consultant. Of particular interest was Clayton’s attention to Pierre Dinand’s 5 Cherries – the renowned flacon designer’s assessment which analogizes a fragrance’s success to winning the jackpot at the slot machines. In order to be successful, five factors (cherries) are required: 1) proper financing; 2) effective distribution; 3) good marketing; 4) distinctive bottle design; and 5) the quality of the jus itself. Throughout my Esxence experience, I witnessed considerable evidence that Monsieur Dinand’s theorem is a truthful one – even if it is not the most popular view of the fragrance industry.

 

Galimard Héritage Collection at Esxence Milano 2025 Ida©

Highlights at Esxence Milano 2025: This year I was thrilled with many discoveries – from newer brands to older, more traditional houses which have successfully reinvigorated themselves. I’m referring to the noble house of Galimard in Grasse, founded in 1747. They released an exquisite trio entitled The Héritage Collection, a treasure of three parfums: J (jasmine), R (rose), and T (tuberose). In addition, their latest scent, Ruby Chéri – a very adult gourmand eau de parfum which includes almond, Morello cherry, coffee, sandalwood and musk; a fragrance I would adore wearing (yes, me).  It was Galimard’s first exhibition at Esxence. Another legendary French house, founded in 1774 (often overlooked, alas), L.T. Piver – took the time to walk me through their original fragrances as well as their revivification, in keeping with regulatory requirements and an eye to a more contemporary vision (while maintaining their classical DNA). I was singularly impressed and gratified to see that they remain relevant centuries later – and that their reformulations were glorious.

 

Neela Vermeire and Eshal at Esxence Milano 2025 (keep your eyes on the site as Eshal bottles will be able to purchase soon) Ida©

Tuberose!!!: We are so quick to pigeonhole writers according to presumed tastes. “This one love tuberose, that one adores gourmands”, etc. Well, I happen to adore them, myself – and besides Galimard’s delightful T, both Neela Vermeire Creations and Cristian Cavagna have contributed knockout perfumes: Neela Vermeire Eshal (which I feel honored to review in short order), and Cristian’s new Regina Vergine. Each is éblouissant and wildly different from the other, and I sincerely want BOTH. Regina Vergine is honeyed, woody, spicy – with an aftertaste of coffee, although none is listed. Scrumptious. Neela’s tuberose fairly sparkles with a vibrant citrus cocktail to accompany her, accented with balsamic, spicy tones and the kiss of beeswax and labdanum (magnificently rendered by master perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, who has been quite prolific over the past year). I swoon, and I crave; no shame here.

Varied Pleasures at Esxence Milano 2025: This category causes me the most angst – for fear of inadvertently omitting some marvelous brand and/or fragrance. There were many booths I did not get to investigate – be it due to intense crowds or time constraints; my colleagues will surely enlighten you in this regard.

Emma from Binet Papillon

I’ve long admired the small brand Binet-Papillon (founded by a former Guerlain fine fragrances director), who create lovely, innovative perfumes. I finally purchased a large flacon of No.1 – Alkemist Pepper (I’ve longed for it for years). Their newest, No.5 Oud Apollon, is a truly bold, unabashed take on oud, leather, tobacco, and cacao: a wonderful wild card.

 

Brera6 at Esxence 2025 Milano

Astrophil & Stella Chromodoro won my heart with its verdant tonicity; Bon Parfumeur released 403 Myrrh Shadow, a study in the elegance of subtlety and nuance.

Thierry Bernard with Ida

I fell in love with Parfumeurs du Monde’s upcoming Osmanthus Noir by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato; was fascinated by Anatole Lebreton’s heartbreaking Rubaiyat and eclectic Duende; and was captivated by Milanese brand Brera6 Perfumes.

Les Folies du Parfum at Esxence Milano 2025

The new brand Les Folies du Parfum line, composed by Bertrand Duchaufour – was exceptional, especially Vestis and Korè.  Francesca Dell’Oro added two new eaux de parfums, both redolent of exotic climes: Éclat Exotique and Île de Cristal. Baruti Perfumes Mono No Aware was a true pleasure – a very nutty, sesame-like matcha tea ensconced in cherry blossom, musk, and Japanese cedar. Rubini Profumi’s latest fragrance, Idilios (Cristiano Canali, nose) provided a juicy tropical détente which is wearable and very attractive.

 

Aladdin’s Garden collection from Nicolas Danila Parfums at Esxence 2025

Old Friends at Esxence Milano 2025: We’re speaking of established brands’ nouveautés, and some surprises. I was pleased to see that Jean-Charles Brosseau (of Ombre Rose fame: I wore it on my wedding day!) revealed a really marvelous new fragrance – Ombre Musquée – and it’s well worth a good long sniff. The Different Company has added two new scents to their brand, Love is Coming…Chapter II and Azhi Ardara. My old friend Nicolas Danila exhibited his parfums this year (I hadn’t seen him since Esxence 2010), and is excited about finally having a brick-and-mortar boutique in Paris!

Ida at Nicolas Danila’s booth

His original collection Aladdin’s Gardens’ flacons were designed by Pierre Dinand; they are fanciful and colorful (my favorite one is European Gardens). Le Jardin Retrouvé has a new work in progress which will be revealed in Paris soon – and it may be tweaked or renamed, according to Michel Gutsatz (during our conversation). What I recall from my mouillette is a gorgeous warm parfum laced with immortelle – yet one more which I will have to purchase when it’s eventually available (it will make my best of 2025). Although we didn’t have the opportunity to chat, I was grateful to sample Parfums Dusita Tonka Latte, one of the most soothing fragrances of the year.

Stéphanie Bakouche and Marie Urban Le Febvre (perfumer and Osmocurator) Osmotheque At Esxence Milano 2025

The Osmothèque: It’s always a joy to visit, a global treasure which we would do well to support in any way we can. This year the haute parfumerie of the 1920s was the chosen theme. It was lovely to meet up again with Anne-Cécile Pouant, Thomas Fontaine, and spend precious time with perfumer Alexandra Bachand.

 

Meeting up with Ulrich Lang of Ulrich Lang New York

At events such as Esxence, it’s about the perfume, yes – but for me it is more about the people, the friendships forged, cultivated, and fostered. My only caveat? I happen to love people, but abhor crowds. Downtime is essential to one’s well-being after the intensity which was Esxence 2025.

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Disclosure: I was gifted samples or purchased  bottles

Please follow the reports of my ÇaFleureBon colleagues at Esxence 2025, more to follow soon. Karl Topham’s Part 1 can be enjoyed here. Olya Bar’s here

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