J’s image of Angelos Creations Olfactives Cuir Fleurissant
I’m a big fan of Greek perfumer Angelos Balamis’ fragrances, he has a deep understanding of the history of perfumery that you can feel in his compositions, while also making them feel contemporary and fresh with the spin he adds. It was through ÇaFleureBon and winning a giveaway of Eau de Vertu that I first discovered his work, so its lovely to be here now writing about it.
Angelos’ latest perfume Pnoi, a stunning sleek and sexy powdery refined violet leather, has already sold out of its first batch in the EU ( PNOI is at Luckyscent), and smelling a sample I can see why. His releases are like Supreme back in the day, where you have to be there for the drop, so while we wait for a restock I thought it would be lovely to revisit his first leather, Cuir Fleurissant. For me it’s a stunning take on the Cuir de Russie style that evokes so much more.
Angelos of Angelos Creations Olfactives perfumer and street wear icon courtesy of Angelos
Angelos Creations Olfactives Cuir Fleurissant has this beautiful duality for me; one is nostalgic memories of my father returning from pottering in the garage, then washing the grease from his hands with a zesty citrus soap. Cuir Fleurissant bursts with a vibrant citrus freshness, layered with woody notes that gradually deepen into a smoky oily birch tar, casting a shadow over the initial brightness. Aldehydes and violet leaf creates a vast, clean sensation, while delicate abstract florals emerge blooming from soft, bitter greens. Cuir Fleurissant resonates with a subtle, intoxicating floral allure; here is the other essence of the duality, you can sense the emergence of narcotic blossoms from the shadows as a rich, dark leather ignites a deeper desire. The way the florals interweave with the darker aspects is stunning.
J’s collage of a black velvet rose
Angelos Creations Olfactives Cuir Fleurissant envelops you in a cosy sensual darkness, where a soft, powdery leather meets the creamy essence of orris, creating a luxurious, smoky texture that feels like crushed velvet. Sweet violets dance within this cosy darkness; little flickering sweet flames nestled in this powdery cocoon. A breath taking muguet emerges, the image of a cool clean lily of the valley kissed in a warm, smoky embrace, its pristine qualities darkened by rich woods and resins, while its petals have been gently toasted with a hint of vanilla.
Classic muguet illustration in the public domain.
The aldehydes and oily birch tar rise from this shadowy realm, creating a vertical thrust that makes more floral notes blossom. Deep in this leathery, dark wood and powdery musk, a darkly spiced rose unfurls, accompanied by the whisper of geranium thorns that suggest an underlying danger, while mimosa softens the feel of the petals, merging seamlessly into the silky, smoky darkness. It feels as though my father visited the garden to tend to the roses before washing away the day’s dark oils. As the fresh, soapy muguet and aldehydes work their magic; the garden blossoms gradually reveal themselves, blending into a musky warmth that lingers in the air above the powdery, velvety leather smoke.
‘A passion flower, honeysuckle, carnations, roses and other flowers on a stone ledge with a butterfly’ By Jan Pieter Breughel. circa 1660
Cuir Fleurissant hums with captivating dark elegance, the coolness of ashy leather; its soft, powdery depths contrast beautifully with a glowing floral warmth, floral embers flickering in the night. Delicate wisps of incense weave around the blossoms, unveiling layers of intrigue, while a subtle earthy patchouli hints at the flowers’ origins. The rich sandalwood notes create a seamless connection between the smoky, velvety leather and the brighter elements of Cuir Fleurissant, allowing both darkness and light to coexist harmoniously. As the petals are gently shaved away, fine wood shavings drift down, revealing a vibrant musky freshness, some the tender memories of a day gone by, embracing you in a velvety smoke that transforms into a woodsy, floral, ashy leather shield. The florals of Cuir Fleurissant persist, glistening with a silky birch tar oil that lends them a sleek quality. Angelos masterfully balances sweetness and floral notes, keeping the shadows at bay, while the musky floral leather envelops you, inviting you to sink into its soft embrace, allowing its sweet petals to cascade over you. While the opening and heart of evoke a sense of nostalgia, the dry down envelops me in a soft sensuality that makes me forget my father (sorry dad), as I long to be wrapped in Cuir Fleurissant’s smoky floral cocoon. This fragrance offers a stunning and unique interpretation of a Cuir de Russie style, reflecting Angelos’s passion for vintage and classic perfumery, yet maintaining a fresh and contemporary feel. Wearing his creations is always a delightful experience.
Notes: Bergamot from Calabria, Violet leaf Absolute, Orange Flower Absolute, Neroli Oil from Tunisia, Birch Tar Rectified Oil, Aldehydes, Mimosa Absolute, Rosa Damascena Bulgaria Absolute, Orris Butter, Muguet Accord, Ylang Ylang Complete, Rosewood, Geranium, Violet, Smoke, Musk, Benzoin Siam, Vanilla Absolute, Opoponax, Patchouli, Leather, Ambrette Seed Oil, Castoreum (Reco.), Styrax, Amyris, Nagarmotha.
Disclaimer: Angelos Creations Olfactives Cuir Fleurissant was generously gifted to me by Angelos Balamis. My thoughts and nose as always, are my own.
Senior Editor, J Wearescentient, artist and olfactive writer.
J’s image of Angelos Creations Olfactives Cuir Fleurissant
Thanks to the generosity of Angelos Balamis, we have 30 ml bottle of Cuir Fleurissant for a registered reader in the USA or EU only. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what strikes you about Cuir Fleurissant based on j’s review and where you live. What’s your favourite from Angelos Creations Olfactives? Draw closes 8/13/2024. Please note that the winner will receive their perfume end of August.
Angelos Balamis was Michelyn’s rising star of 2020 and joint Artisan Perfumer of the Year 2022
Angelos Creations Olfactives Karikia was a top 10 of 2023 for Lauryn and Fougeriste was one of Lauryn’s top ten of 2022
Check out Lauryn’s review of Irida Extrait, Karikia, Salon DT and Danse Lascive. And Ida’s review of Krinos.
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