Pekji Flesh courtesy of Ömer İpekçi
Once you have smelled a certain number of fragrances, it is only natural that you become more enamored with quirky, unconventional scents; creations that are difficult to classify and definitely will not be mistaken for one of the many designer releases put out each year. I have several favorite scents that could easily be placed in this untraditional category of “weird yet wonderful”, such as Maurice Roucel’s Dans tes Bras for Frederic Malle or Tubereuse 1: Capricieuse by Histoires de Parfums. and now I am pleased to have encountered another perfume equally as addictive: Pekji Flesh
Pekji, the first artisanal Turkish brand founded in 2018 by perfumer and owner, Ömer İpekçi, is a house that is not afraid to step outside the bounds of classic perfumery to create some truly unique fragrances. Pekji’s initial launch included five scents in the “Re:Collection” based on the theme of memory and identity. Having adored the first collection, I did not hesitate to purchase a sample set of the newest collection, “Reset” (Blacklight, Flesh, Yes, Please and Purpl), based on the themes of mindfulness, renewal and self-reflection. I knew I was in for a wild ride when Ömer describes these new scents as, “not referencing existing perfume genres”.
Omer Ipekci (photo from Pekji)
I was not disappointed; not one from the collection is like any fragrance I had come across before. Remarkably, the scent I thought I would least appreciate was actually the one I adored the most (which goes to show you should never judge a book by its cover or a perfume by the notes list). I refer back to my own quick summary from my Best of 2021 list where I included Pekjj Flesh as one of my top 10 scents of the year: “Of the four scents, Flesh is the one that called to me despite my initial skepticism that it would be too soft for my taste. Not one to shy away from the most intense fragrances, there are times I need something more comforting and subtle. This is no disappearing skin scent though, the apricot, Osmanthus, iris and sandalwood combine to give you a fuzzy, slightly fruity and at the same time, earthy aroma. It is feminine without being coy or sweet and I dare say, retro-vintage.”
Maeve played by Thandi Newton in the 2016 Series Westworld apped by Michelyn
Having adorned myself in Pekji Flesh multiple times to better understand its distinctiveness, appreciating its mix of newness and familiar. With a name like Flesh, you cannot help but assume it will be a skin scent of soft pillowy musks and powdery florals. In reality, I was surprised as the opening of Flesh starts with something quite unhuman and almost plastic-like; similar to the smell of a new doll fresh from the package. Simultaneously, the distinct scent of vintage cosmetics and lipstick, as the iris, osmanthus and ambrette transforms the image of artificial skin into something much more adult yet still not completely human. The harmony of notes blends so smoothly into each other, it is difficult to tell if you are truly smelling buttery suede or it is simply the feeling the fragrance conjures as it envelops you.
Rachel Wood as Dolores in Westwood TV Series 2016 apped by Michelyn
There is an elegance to the overall composition of Flesh that evokes an image of a bygone era where women would never consider going out without their hat, gloves and lipstick. This is where I believe Mr. İpekçi would like us to exercise some self-reflection. He has presented us with a scent named for the most visible and basic component of the human body, flesh, yet he creates an image of nature being corrupted into something false or hidden behind a mask of insincerity. What is our natural scent? Do we have just one true odor or does it evolve and change throughout the day depending on our mood and desires?
unsplash cropped
If Pekji Flesh is a representation of our own being, it must be the latter because it certainly keeps developing and transforming from that which is shiny and new to something that is familiar and comforting. As Flesh moves into the lingering hours, there is still a clear sense of elegance but with the addition of comfort and contentment. There is no innocence in this Flesh, only the slightly animalic and earthy aroma of a human body that cannot be contained nor concealed.
courtesy of Ömer İpekçi
Thankfully houses like Pekji continue to provide us with a steady stream of unique perfumes that may or may not turn out to be great commercial successes but, will always find a loving home with both connoisseurs and lovers of the unusual. I challenge us all to be a little braver about trying new things (perfume related or not) and to take to heart this quote from Ömer himself: “I believe that perfume has to connect with the wearer first, rather than being used as a signal to others. I believe that it is too beautiful and powerful to be stuck inside a shallow understanding of luxury. That there is more to perfume than seeking status and smelling acceptable.”
Rachel Watson, Senior Contributor
Pekji Flesh was created by Ömer İpekçi in 2021
Notes: Ambrette, Apricot, Civet, Iris, Musks, Osmanthus, Paint, Sandalwood, Vanilla
Disclaimer: Review is based on a bottle generously provided by the brand. My opinions are my own.
You can read Ermano’s best of Pitti Fragranze 2019 where he discovers Battinye and 2021 Where Pekji was a best of show
Pekji Flesh by Rachel
Thanks to the generosity of Pekji we have a 50ml bottle of Flesh for one registered reader in the North American, UK or EU. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest about Rachel’s review of Pekji Flesh and where you live. Draw closes 3/23/2022
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