Visual interpretation of Matières Libres Absinthe Gaïac by Cristian©
Green leather, bitter woods and creamy vegetal notes are some of the contrasting pairings that describe Matières Libres Absinthe Gaïac from Panouge Paris. One of currently four offerings from the brand and part of the “Unrestrained Materials” collection, this is the fruit of the carte blanche given to the ingenious team of young perfumers from Maelstrom. The brand describes their Matières Libres collection: “With its minimalistic design and pastel tones, the collection ‘Matières Libres’ of Panouge Paris is conceived with the desire of Creative Director Rania Naim to confer total freedom of composition to the perfumers. Following their inspiration, they have blended components without restraints nor limits.”
Illustration by Patrice Revillard for Matières Libres Absinthe Gaïac
Panouge’s Matières Libres Absinthe Gaïac revolves around the absinthe plant (also known as wormwood), and it can be smelt from the very opening where, along with the violet leaves, it contributes to the fragrance’s crisp and green character. There is a vibrant, fresh and aromatic burst that makes quite a lasting first impression and lays the groundwork for the unexpected contrasting notes that follow. Patrice Revillard describes his creation as possessing a “vintage vibe” and yet a contemporary construction – further cementing the theme of contrasts that characterizes all four fragrances of the collection. He “sees” Absinthe Gaïac as sweet, addictive and comforting, neither masculine nor feminine – despite the subtle floral note of the rose that essentially holds the fragrance together.
Visual interpretation with cut-out bottle and selected materials by Cristian©
When I first learned of Absinthe Gaïac, I was already intrigued as to what role the absinthe plant would play before even smelling it. As it happens, I am quite familiar with it: growing up on a farm and around animals, I had somewhat of a mental list of what our cows enjoyed grazing, but I also knew which plants they wouldn’t touch. And absinthe, or what we call “pelin” in Romanian, was a no-go! It is far too bitter! The plant itself is beautiful and the reverse side of the leaves has the texture of the most expensive silk. But once you crush the leaves, you can tell right away how bitter they are just by smelling them. There is a touch of that green bitterness in Absinthe Gaïac, but it does not venture into lips-pursing territory.
Botanical interpretation of the materials used in Matières Libres Absinthe Gaïac©
The verdant nature and crispness of the opening gradually seep into the darker side of Absinthe Gaïac. A cool spiciness from the nutmeg facilitates the transition to a leathery, creamy-woody and ambery drydown. And the vetiver, with its earthy qualities, appears to – for lack of a less predictable word – ground the fragrance in its later stages of evolution on the skin. Whereas the guaiac wood provides the contrasting depth, with hints of mellow smoke and an ever-so-slight impression of sweet tobacco.
Don’t let the pastel green color of Matières Libres Absinthe Gaïac’s jus fool you. It is more than simply a fresh and green fragrance; the meticulously blended materials will pleasantly surprise you as they develop on your skin, transporting you from green pastures to rose gardens, sumptuous tanneries and spice markets, eventually dropping you off in the heart of majestic woods.
Notes: Absinthe, Violet leaf, Rose, Leather, Nutmeg, Amber, Guaiac, Vetiver
Disclaimer: A bottle of Absinthe Gaïac was sent to me by Panouge Paris for this review. All opinions expressed are my own.
Cristian Marianciuc, Senior Contributor
Cut-out paper bottle with a selection of the materials used in Matières Libres Absinthe Gaïac by Cristian©
Thanks to the generosity of Panouge Paris, we have a draw for a 100 ml bottle of Matières Libres Absinthe Gaïac for one registered reader in the EU, UK, USA or Canada. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Cristian’s review of Matières Libres Absinthe Gaïac and where you live. Draw closes 6/24/2021
Please read Senior Editor Despina Veneti’s review of Matières Libres Datura Amaretto and overview of the brand here
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