Shawn Maher of Maher Olfactive collaboration Shawn Maher Benton Park for American Perfumer
Fragrance curator and entrepreneur Dave Kern of American Perfumer and artisanal perfumer Shawn Maher (of Chatillon Lux and Maher Olfactive) have been collaborating on their latest endeavor for nigh a year. On May 29th, 2021 a lottery will be held for 25 bottles of their brilliant new perfume Shawn Maher Benton Park for American Perfumer Benton Park (as is frequently the case, occasionally there may be a few more bottles released in the future – but when they are sold out, that’s that). It’s very different from anything else Shawn has previously created, an entity of its own. I’m honored to have been sent a sample – from which I may share my perceptions with you.
Thomas Hart Benton, self-portrait 1970 via kchistory.org
Oftentimes Shawn’s backstories are easy to follow: they concern a particular area of his native St. Louis or Missouri (Orris Forest, Weinstrasse, Admiral, Confluence, La Petite Prairie, Sunrise on La Salle, Gratiot League Square); a concept which revolves around music (Tempo Rubato, Nefertiti) or a specific aromatic material (Crystal Moon, Santal Auster), or an influential personage (Madame Chouteau, Unconditional Surrender). Benton Park is in another category entirely when it comes to conceptual perfumery. Its name derives from a neighboring park in an historic area close to the perfumer’s home – one which was named after another iconoclastic native son, painter Thomas Hart Benton. Benton depicted America’s working-class with a keen eye towards social criticism and rejected European modern art (although he studied abroad). This particular style of portrayal became known as Regionalism; some of its better-known advocates were Grant Wood (American Gothic) and John Steuart Curry (a painter of the Wild West, he was commissioned during FDR’s New Deal to ennoble everyday life), although some include earlier Andrew Wyeth works as well. There were many critics who decried Benton’s homey, folk art-infused style – or criticized it for its very content.
Thomas Hart Benton’s mural via artnet
Where is the thread of connectivity here, you well may ask? Shawn wanted to compose a scent which was bold, something which would honor the conventional and wed it to a more modern conceptualization. The physical locus of Benton Park is filled with contrasts; beautiful old buildings (including the Anheuser Busch Brewery) consort harmoniously with urban renewal and contemporary architecture in an organic fashion. In such a spirit, Dave and Shawn discussed their mutual fondness for vetiver in all its varied colorations dependent upon terroir. When the subject of tuberose arose shortly thereafter, more spirited conversation ensued: how to capture the uplifting nuances of tuberose via headspace, rather than resorting to a more opaque, weighty absolute?
tuberoses via Unsplash and Vetiver Haiti from wikipedia
Shawn relishes a challenge. How does the atmosphere which surrounds a tuberose smell, exactly? What will it take to represent its freshness, the mentholated aspect, the waxy butteriness? Fruity ripeness? Spicy notes which are separate from its green facets? Then you need to consider Vetiver With a V: grassy, smoky, round, how it will entwine itself with the elaborate tuberose accord – and eventually, the musk triad which will anchor the fragrance and enhance its components while adding a slight edge to keep one on their toes?
Thomas Hart Benton June Morning 1940 via artnet.com
Benton Park’s tuberose accord is constructed around a myriad of materials both of botanical origin and synthesized – some which will be familiar. Shawn goes into great detail describing them and the roles they play; it’s complex. You can explore this in his current blog post. In this particular instance, I’d prefer to tell you what I smell – because, exclusivity aside – hopefully you will be compelled to try it because of the way it makes you feel. My initial impression is intensely minty and fresh in a medicinal blast: ever so spicy due to a hefty dose of eugenol and Methyl Diantilis®. They impart the clovey, cinnamonlike aspects of carnation (and tuberose!) and wintergreen/ bitter cherry pit/nutty methyl benzoate. Blue gum eucalyptus contributes additional camphorous qualities, but it also has a good deal of sweetness. Brightness arises from limonene, a terpenic citrusy note. Methyl tuberate, intensely floral and fatty – smells like tuberose and gardenia, and it’s crucial. Fruitiness is accentuated by peach lactone, raspberry ketone and other aromachemicals. To round out verdancy, some limpid materials create a watery greenness with a crisp edge (violet leaf, Irival); another contributes an herbal/fruit/floral tone redolent of chamomile. The three vetivers chosen are each unique, but they don’t truly shine until the drydown, when the tuberose accord’s showy grandstanding abates somewhat. Then you can really enjoy the lovely balsamic tone Benton Park has taken. You also will appreciate how the tuberose has been designed as it has quietened, softened its voice; at this juncture, more than its commencement – it is apparent that anyone at all may wear Shawn Maher Benton Park for American Perfumer with confidence. The musks are just enough for ballast that won’t bowl you over.
All in all, Shawn Maher Benton Hall for American Perfumer is a powerhouse: statuesque, magnificent and audacious. It’s certainly an admirable illustration of American Ingenuity.
Notes: tuberose accord (methyl benzoate, limonene, methyl salicylate, blue gum eucalyptus oil, methyl tuberate, gamma decalactone, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrate, raspberry ketone, benzyl alcohol), double-distilled vetiver, Indian vetiver, Haitian vetiver, green accord (cis-3-hexenyl tiglate, violet leaf absolute, Irival), spicy accord (eugenol, Methyl Diantilis®, vanillin), musk accord (ambrettolide, Muscenone®, ethylene brassylate)
Sample provided by Dave Kern of American Perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
Thanks to the generosity of David Kern of American Perfumer, we are able to offer a 2 ml. sample o Shawn Maher Benton Park for American Perfumer which launches May 29th, 2021) for one registered reader In THE USA ONLY. To be eligible, please leave a comment explaining what appeals to you about Ida’s review of Shawn Maher Benton Park for American Perfumer. Draw closes May 31, 2021
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