Atelier Materi Narcisse Taiji, the Yin and the Yang – pictures via Atelier Materi, vector illustration via Wikipedia, editing and digital effects by Emmanuelle Varron.
I have always loved tuberose fragrances, almost to the point of excluding all other florals. Recently there is another flower that has won my heart…narcissus, with its duality of freshness and animalic, which can take on a neo-vintage vibe. This is the mystery of perfume: we suddenly fall in love with ingredients that previously did not appeal. The complexity of narcissus absolute is a challenge for even the most accomplished perfumers, but Marie Hugentobler ‘s skill is apparent, coaxing the perfection of this enigmatic bloom, (very expensive and rarely used in perfumery) in the new Atelier Materi Narcisse Taiji.
My excitement was palpable when I read that Atelier Materi Narcisse Taiji was set to launch (I already knew and appreciated the Atelier Materi collection thanks to Véronique Le Bihan). Its name couldn’t be more perfect for this floral Yin and Yang fragrance. In Chinese philosophy “Taiji” is the pole star, keystone of the universe, on which rest the Yin (black, feminine principle, moon, darkness and freshness) and Yang (white, masculine principle, sun, brightness and heat), two opposing forces which cannot exist without the other.
Véronique Le Bihan and Marie Hugentobler – Pictures via Atelier Materi , edited by Emmanuelle Varron.
In the opening, pear takes possession of my nostrils, juicy and without any sweetness, accompanied by musky notes that give a soft and subtle soapy start. But very quickly I find myself transported to a narcissus field quivering in a cold and intense wind; a dive into nature, into the greenery, where the flower is fresh and intense.
Via stock photo Narcissus Poeticus
Marie Hugentobler has chosen exceptional narcissus, like the ones that grow on the Aubrac plateau in the heart of the volcanic Auvergne. Mme. Hugentobler adds sensuality by combining it with a carnal yet luminous tuberose. One imagines a vast field of white flowers with tall stems wafting a heady scent. The pear has now given way to spiced ginger that showcase the more animalic side. Narcisse Taiji has a few surprises to offer: a patchouli-leather accord that is beautifully blended, giving depth to the floral side of the fragrance as if you had rubbed a piece of leather with an armful of freshly picked flowers.
James Ivory movie “A room with a view” screen capture 1985 and released almost on this very day April 11th
The sweetness of the narcissus perfectly pairs with the hot, dry character of hay and bran absolutes of Atelier Materi Narcisse Taiji immediately reminded me of James Ivory “Room with a View” and undoubtedly one of the most beautiful scenes in recent cinema (where Lucy Honeychurch goes in search of George Emerson, almost drowning in the Florentine wheat fields). Narcisse Taiji still has a few surprises to offer: a patchouli-leather accord that is beautifully blended, giving depth to the floral side of the fragrance, as if you had rubbed a piece of leather with an armful of freshly picked flowers.
Veronique Le Bihan quote for Atelier Materi Narcisse Taiji – edited by Emmanuelle Varron
Atelier Materi Narcisse Taiji is a study in simplexity. My skin adored it immediately and it would smell wonderful on a man (gentlemen, you have the right to wear flowers!). Atelier Materi Narcisse Taiji moves between gentleness and wildness, shadow and light, strength and fragility. The perfect balance of Yin and Yang.
Notes: pear, ginger root, tuberose, narcissus, hay absolute, bran absolute, leather, patchouli, musk.
Disclaimer: Many thanks to founder Veronique Le Bihan for the Narcisse Taiji sample provided for this review. The opinions expressed are my own.
There are two other ÇaFleureBon articles to read about Atelier Materi: Ida Meister’s Cuir d’Iris (now Iris Ebène) review here and Gail Gross review of Cacao Porcelana here.
Emmanuelle Varron, Senior contributor (and Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief)
Narcisse Taiji 100 ml bottle to win- Photo via Atelier Materi
Thanks to the generosity of Atelier Materi, we have a 100 ml bottle of Narcisse Taiji for one registered reader in the US and EU. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what appealed to you about Emmanuelle’s review, where you live and if you have a favorite Atelier Materi Perfume? Draw closes 4/15/2020
Available at Atelier Materi, Jovoy, Indigo Perfumery and Luckysent.
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