bdk Parfums Gris Charnel Review (Mathilde Bijaoui) +Parisian Escape Draw

 

bdk Parfums Gris Charnel review

Olya Bar with bdk Parfums Gris Charnel

 bdk Parfums Gris Charnel feels like a breathlessly whispered invitation to indulge in something lustful. If you have ever visited Paris or planning to do so in the future, you have to experience the magic of Quai Saint–Bernard, near the Jardin des Plantes, an inspiration behind Gris Charnel. Quai Saint- Bernard has a rich history. including that at one time  it was known as the “Capitol of French Wine” and a bustling river port.

Mathilde Bijaoui of Mane

Mathilde Bijaoui courtesy of the perfumer

As an admirer of perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui’s of MANE work for quite some time, it is interesting that her father’s fascination with gastronomy plays an important role in her perfumery. The world of the senses and culinary nuances are beautifully woven together in many of her compositions.

Gris Charnel by bdk Parfums

bdk Parfums Gris Charnel figs and a steaming cup of tea, photo by Olya

bdk Parfums Gris Charnel opens with succulent fig. Figs are often associated with sex and fertility, but despite its fruitlike appearances it is not a fruit at all, but inverted flowers. That’s what gives the inside of a fig its signature striated look, each small, fleshy thread in the fig is a tiny flower, carrying a seed. The fig is served with a steaming cup of black tea and a pinch of cardamom (queen of spices), smoky and full of tannins. The tea accord grounds the ripeness of figs; the heart reveals an earthy iris absolute assuming its full powdery glory. The addition of bourbon vetiver adds a spicy and slightly leathery facet to the structure, with hints of smoky hazelnut and slight bitterness; resting on the bed of velvety sandalwood. I find the latter to be one of the main pillars of this composition, taming the candied fig and lending a solid woodsy foundation to the fragrance.

bdk Parfums Gris Charnel

Photo of  Olya by Olya

bdk Parfums Gris Charnel is more than olfactory indulgence. It’s both retro and modern, transporting you to the heart of the Quai Saint–Bernard dance floor, a place of escape for many Parisians. They leave the mundane routines of every day life behind and enter into the world of sexual attraction, assertive flirting and lascivious embraces, which often end with stolen hearts forever etched with memories.

Notes: Fig, Black Tea, Cardamom; Iris Absolute, Bourbon Vetiver; Sandalwood, Tonka Bean.

Disclaimer: I would like to thank Kintessance for my bottle of Gris Charnel. The opinions are my own.

–Olya Bar, Guest Contributor

bdk Parfums Gris Charnel by Mathilde Bijaoui

Photo by Olya

Thanks to the generosity of Kintessance, the USA distributor, we have a draw for a 100ml tester bottle of bdk Parfums Gris Charnel for one registered reader in the USA. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Olya’s review and if you have a favorite fragrance from this brand. Draw closes 4/10/2021

All photos by Olya©

To sample or to purchase at Krystal Fragrances

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58 comments

  • Vahagn says:

    What a beautiful photos and review, dear Olya!! I enjoyed this review, especially about fig note.
    Unfortunately I am not familiar with BDK house.
    USA

  • Ruth says:

    Olya I’m so proud of you !! No one describes a perfume like like I was cracking up
    When I reas “Velvety “ now I fit Fig is an inverted flower !!

  • Doni says:

    I like how Olya referred to cardamom as the queen of spices. lol So true. At least in designer perfumery. I never got the vetiver on my skin, but absolutely agree that the sandalwood plays a major role in the base. Out of all the BDKs I tried, this one came out to be my second favourite after Tabac Rose. Too much ado about Rouge Smoking for my taste, and somehow Gris Charnel feels more elegantly refined to my nose. And speaking of refined elegance, BIG fan of Olya’s IG and YT vids too. Love her fashion sense. Not to mention the “powdery glory” quip. Sigh of appreciation… MI, USA

  • Channon says:

    Love the description of retro and modern and how the black tea brings out the ripe fig. This sounds lovely

  • mdellaroc says:

    So first I did not know that about figs! Secondly, figs!!! Oh how I love fragrance with fig. This particular fig scents sounds rich and deep. I’m intrigued by this one. Thanks for the chance to win. In the USA.

  • Brad Woolslayer says:

    I loved how Olya described how each note in Gris Charnel contributed to the overall smell and effect of the fragrance. I enjoy fig fragrances and this sounds like a very interesting take on that note. I live in Maryland USA.

  • wilsonwc76 says:

    These notes sound so delicious! I love a fig scent, and mixing it with black tea sounds perfect. I can totally imagine these notes being both retro and modern. I don’t know this house, but the bottle is so beautiful! I’m in NYC.

  • Bryant Worley says:

    What I enjoyed most about Olya’s review was theway she broke down each layer of the fragrance, while never allowing us to forget that “Fig”, and secondly, sandalwood were the main players.

    I’ve only tried samples of Gris Charnel and Tabac Rose, and to my nose, Gris Channel has the better opening, while Tabac Rose has the better drydown.

    I live in Waldorf, Maryland, USA.

  • GennyLeigh says:

    I never knew a fig was not a fruit but rather a cluster of inverted flowers. Gris Charnel contains several ingredients I associate with a contemplative gray such as black tea, vetiver and iris. The fig and sandalwood add a sensual note. The composition sounds lovely. Unfortunately, I missed the Quai Saint-Bernard when I was in Paris a few years ago. Hopefully, I’ll have an opportunity to see it in the not too distant future. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • Nara Hodgson says:

    I have been dying to try this!!! I also have been dying to try Tabac Rose. I am in USA

  • AleksCipri says:

    When I saw the first photo I recognized the hair and knew that this must be Olya’s review. I appreciate her description of Gris Charnel a lot. I was always very interested in this perfume since everyone is talking about it and I additionally love fig and sandalwood fragrances. I love Olya’s intro about Paris. I’ve never been there but when I do I’ll make sure to visit Quai Saint- Bernard too. I’m from Illinois, US.

  • Derek Bedinghaus says:

    I loved Olya’s whole breakdown from the fig to it being retro &modern. I haven’t had the opportunity to try the brand as of yet but have a few fragrances in mind including this one that I would like to try.

  • CelesteLovesFlowers says:

    I enjoyed your explanation that fits are not fruit but inverted flowers. You taught me something new. I also liked your explanation of how sandalwood is a pillar in the fragrance.
    Celeste
    Pennsylvania, USA

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I enjoyed learning about the truth behind the fig “fruit” in this review (which I think went and looked up). Also Olya’s assessment of this scent as part retro and part forward looking–I totally agree. I recently bought a sample set from the line and loved many–this was my favorite. Thanks for this generous draw! I’m in the US.

  • INYA says:

    I like the idea of a tea and fig fragrance. Also, I do enjoy a smoky scent. Parfums Gris Charnel sounds like it’s a unisex, my kind of fragrance. Thanks for your review, Ms Olya. Mich USA

  • KateD says:

    Those notes are all so appealing. Great review and I had no idea figs were inverted flowers! I’m always learning something here at CaFleureBon. I have not yet tried this brand but I’ve been eyeing the sample set. Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US.

  • glowup says:

    Gastronomy and Perfumerry, sounds ofd but makes so much sense. I really enjoyed how Olya described the fig and the flower, it really brought it to life. Tabac Rose is my favorite from BDK.

  • nicolelynnblood says:

    Olya’s review is so detailed in imagery. I love how she painted a picture for us. I love hearing other people impression of a fragrances and how it plays with there specific chemistry. Notes of tea and cardamom are some of my favorites. I have not had the pleasure of smelling any BDK scents although gris Charnel and rouge smoking are on my wishlist. With love from Cottonwood heights, Utah

  • Ben A says:

    I don’t know the brand at all, but this certainly sounds intriguing. Olya’s description of figs alongside a cup of tea with a pinch of cardamom sounds delicious, however! I’m in Oklahoma, USA. Thanks, as always, for the draw!

  • constancesuze says:

    I love fig, it’s one of my holy trinity of fruits (the others being cherries and persimmons) and I love to smell it in perfume. The black tea aspect sounds like a great counterpart.
    I knew there was something botanically *different* about figs but I had realized each of the filaments was a separate flower. Magical.
    I haven’t tried anything from bdk before.

  • xoe says:

    A figgy indulgence. The dance floor. All of it. Yes please. I’ve never tried anything from bdk. I am in the US.

  • Steve A says:

    Curious to experience the blending of fig and iris absolute. I hadn’t heard of the brand ’til today. US

  • Dilana says:

    I live in the US. I have not yet tried a fragrance from this brand, but I would start with Gris Charnal because it is a fig fragrance with cardamom and tea. The description of a fig as an inverted flower was my favorite part of the review.

  • cmugaver says:

    Thank you for the descriptive visualization Olya! When Fig is done right it’s phenomenal. I’d be curious to see how it compares to the likes of Philosykos from Diptyque, this seems to be a lot more grounding in nature and soothing especially with the addition of that black tea note. I’ve enjoyed Rouge Smoking and especially Sel D’Argent from this house so far in my samplings from Luckyscent and TwistedLily. I am in NJ currently. Thanks again Olya, very well done.

  • drjedi says:

    Lovely review of bdk Parfums Gris Charnel by Olya. Not a large number of notes, but what a lovely combination. I learnt about figs in this review – had no idea they were inverted flowers!!! Cardamom (as Olya says, the queen of spices), vetiver, sandalwood, iris – will be a heady, sensual perfume. Haven’t tried bdk Parfums brand, yet. Thanks for the review and draw. Writing from the USA.

  • lilyjiang11 says:

    Olya described the fragrance beautifully as both retro and modern. This perfume sounds wonderful.

  • mronhubbard says:

    The descriptions of each note made me feel sort of “hungry” for it! Now I want to smell every note, and every scent that’s anything like this, and I hope Paris fully blooms again in every sense some day. What a daydream! I have not tried anything from this brand.
    SoCal

  • Julesinrose says:

    I have never tried anything from this house so I haven’t got a favorite. I have to admit that I have not found a fig fragrance that I’ve wanted to wear. . .YET. Olya’s review makes me think that this one might be the one that wins me over. I love figs to eat and in smoothies that I make with cold tea, which is interesting considering the notes of this fragrance. I’d LOVE to try this one!! In Maine, USA

  • Nina says:

    I have heard reviews of Gris but this is the most tantalizing one ever. I had no idea that fig is not a fruit but a flower. I guess I can eat it on my keto diet. I guess they should have used fig rather than an apple for the Adam and Eve story. A fig represents sexuality. Namaste. Nina of Texas

  • Khalil Nasir says:

    Her opening statement was enough for me indulge into something lustful. Her description is exactly what I feel from my sample. For now my favorite is Tabac Rose, but I can see why there’s so much buzz about Gris Charnel is smell so sexy.

  • C K says:

    I’ve been interested in Gris Charnel since I first heard about it and the brand bdk. I’ve still not tried any bdk fragrances but this is definitely at the top of the list to try. I enjoyed getting a little bit of info about the perfumer and the info about figs as well. I also enjoyed Olya’s description of the fragrance and how the notes work together. Thanks for the generous draw, from CT USA.

  • Dean says:

    Sounds lovely and interesting to be both retro and modern. The progression of the fig note is what I find the most intriguing. I’m in the US, MN.

  • bagcd2 says:

    Like the sound of a fig, bourbon and vetiver. Good selling point of a sexual embrace that will steal you heart. Like to smell this inviting fragrance.

  • FC says:

    I didnt know fig is a flower. It seems that Gris Charnel tries to achieve a balance between retro and modern perfume compositions.USA

  • Dosva says:

    Thank you Olya for beautiful review!
    I am not familiar with BDK perfumes , but candied fig and solid woodsy foundation sound very beautiful!
    US

  • IvanVelikov says:

    I like how Gris Charnel is made , succulent fig , dark black tea, leather and spiciness. Classy fragrance i would gladly wear while working with clients at the tailor store.
    I’ve heard BDK Parfums, but never had a chance to smell their fragrances.
    Thanks you Michelyn, Olya and Kintessance , nice draw
    USA

  • AlisaA says:

    Beautiful review from beautiful Olya Bar.
    I haven’t tried any from BDK perfumes.
    Velvety sandalwood, vetiver and Iris, same time retro and modern- sounds beautiful. I would be very happy to ein this perfume.
    US

  • wallygator88 says:

    I love the idea of this fragrance – sweet fig in it’s astringent sweet form, combined with the smoky calmness of black tea and the meditative qualities of Bourbon vetiver and the sensual butteriness of iris – sounds like longing in a bottle.

    I unfortunately have not smelt anything from this brand.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • Uncle1979 says:

    Olya take on Gris Charnel reminded me of
    Cardamom Fig Cake i do on regular basis in my bakery , and drinking black tea . Such a comforting fragrance.
    Cardamom being “queen of spices” … maybe, according to some . I actually enjoyed the statement 🙂 Speaking of cardamom, as traditionally trained in Paris Pastry Chef , my advice is always grind yourself the cardamom , just before you’re about to cook. Night and day difference, believe me.
    I do not have experience with Bdk Parfums.
    Appreciate Olya review, and the giveaway campaign
    USA

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    Fig and sandalwood are some of my favorite notes. I also love your description of the fig being served with black tea full of cardamom. This sounds delicious! Thank you for the draw. I am in the US.

  • Meghan Cowling says:

    What I liked about Olya’s review was that it was transportive. I have had an horrifically stressful workweek (TGIF, indeed) and for a moment I was on the Quai Saint–Bernard dance floor. Her descriptive imagery was beautiful. It made me want to smell Gris Charnel desperately! I’ve not tried bdk Parfums yet (I am new to fragrance), but it appears that I MUST.

  • 2alt4u says:

    I JUST posted this, but I wasn’t logged in, so please excuse my double-post. I want it to count. 🙁

    What I liked about Olya’s review was that it was transportive. I have had an horrifically stressful workweek (TGIF, indeed) and for a moment I was on the Quai Saint–Bernard dance floor. Her descriptive imagery was beautiful. It made me want to smell Gris Charnel desperately! I’ve not tried bdk Parfums yet (I am new to fragrance), but it appears that I MUST. (I just commented this on my phone

  • Brian says:

    I thank BDK Parfums for their generosity. I’ve only heard of this fragrance house; I haven’t tried any of their releases. After having read from this review, I am very interested in trying this fragrance. All of these notes in combination with each other seems like it would be an enjoyable fragrance. I live in MD., U.S.A.

  • Barber82 says:

    I grew up in UK , and drinking tea is my every day routine. Figs and prunes I always keep for me , and for my customers at the barbershop since day one. Gris Charnel picked up my interest, I’ll definitely sample it.
    BDK Parfums I’m not familiar with.
    Thank you Olya and Kintessance
    USA

  • Michael Prince says:

    Olya, great job with the review and pics. I really love tea, fig, and cardmom combination of this fragrance and how you described the intricate details of what figs really are and even the sensuality and fertility background of them. BDK makes some beautiful fragrances. My favorite from BDK that I have tried is Wood Jasmin. I am from the USA.

  • gprgpr says:

    What a fabulous review by Olya, such an evocative scent story. I’ve never tried fragrances from this house but this review made me want to try their offerings!

  • Leanne Modell says:

    This review literally transported me to the streets of Paris (a wonderful thing!). Loved the descriptive breakdown of the notes — gorgeous!

  • Sngash says:

    Thank you Olya for the review and Kintessance for the kind giveaway. I hadn’t paid much attention to figs and this review has added to my knowledge of figs. It’s awesome when perfumers get inspiration from gastronomy 🙂 I’m yet to try out any BDK Parfums fragrances and would love to start with Gris Charnel. I’m in USA

  • petergigov says:

    “Figs are often associated with sex and fertility”

    Of course they are , in some cultures fig is considered to be Aphrodisiac since ancient times. Gris Charnel is appealing to me because of its darker facets, leather, smokiness , vetiver , smoked tea and iris. The fig i guess stops the composition of becoming too dark.
    I don’t have a favorite BDK Parfums, the brand is new to me
    Exciting giveaway , USA
    Regards

  • WaltherP99 says:

    Positive attention BDK Parfums gets last 2-3 on all social media, blogs and forums is well deserved. I’ve sampled all , but the latest two called Citrus Riviera, and Sel d’Argent . If I have to rate my favorite three.
    1. Tabac Rose
    2. Rouge Smoking
    3. Gris Charnel
    All three are fantastic, and in my opinion stand up. I do agree with Olya take on Gris Charnel, the only thing I can add is , I also get olibanum especially in the base. But not incense, I’m talking about the resin , when you hold it in you arms. Check and sample BDK Parfums guys , all are well worth it.
    All profiles I already follow
    USA

  • Gig84 says:

    Rouge Smoking is the only BDK Parfums i know , I bought official BDK sample. Complex fragrance with tart sour cherries, pink pepper, lots of vanilla, slightly musky smell. To my surprise it’s a powerful one. I was not expecting the Rouge Smoking to radiate as much.
    Cold weather fragrance, in late spring and summer it will become cloying.
    Gris Charnel is way more settled down, laid back fragrance with fig and tea.
    Generous giveaway, thanks
    USA

  • NikkoNikko says:

    I’ve only been able to sample Rouge Smoking from BDK and I wish I could give it another try. I liked how Olya described figs as inverted flowers, I always thought it was just a fruit! I have yet to try a fragrance with fig and this one sounds great! Awesome review! Thanks for the draw, from Idaho USA

  • Bubeto_GG says:

    Boys and Girls go to bed, grown ups are here now. Gris Charnel , I expect to lean slightly mature , because of the black tea, the vetiver and the cardamom. Fig and iris are balancing the fragrance, like Olya mentioned both retro , and modern. Best of both worlds.
    Mathilde Bijaoui is really talented, I know her work for other brands like Etat Libre d’Orange, and Jo Malone. Bdk I have not yet tried.
    Thank you all
    USA

  • Andrei Artimon says:

    Really love the house and many of they re offerings , i was scared to try this one because i read that is a litlle feminine . Would love to be on the winning end if this one , new york , usa .

  • Amy maloney says:

    What a beautiful combination of notes – iris, tea , fig (inverted flower – how cool is that), sandalwood, cardamom, bourbon vetiver! Sounds almost gourmand like. I’ve never tested anything by bdk but have heard great things about the line. Thank you for the opportunity to try Gris Charnel! I’m in the US.

  • Scamper says:

    You know I really enjoyed the review she did on this fragrance, when she talked about how her dad influenced her. I have seen someone else review this fragrance, I would really like the chance to win this bottle as I have been wanting to try this one out.