The Invention of Life by René Magritte 1929
“Lost in the rages of fragrance
Lost in the rags of remorse
Lost in the waves of a sickness
That loosens the high silver nerves
Oh chosen love, Oh frozen love
Oh tangle of matter and ghosts
Oh darling of angels, demons and saints…” ~ The Window by Leonard Cohen
Shawn Maher of Maher Olfactive and Chatillon Lux courtesy of Shawn
When artisan perfumer and Art and Olfaction 2020 finalist Shawn Maher of Chatillon Lux decided to diverge into a separate line which he named Maher Olfactive, his aim was an art for art’s sake/slow perfume/ release it when he was ready. In an ideal universe, perfumers might only create for the sake of creation itself – but surely everyone needs to eat as well. It’s marvelous to compose beautiful fragrances which will reach a wide audience, but there is a singular pleasure which evolves from formulating a perfume for oneself utilizing your favorite materials heedless of cost. So much the better if others find it compelling. Such is the case with Shawn’s latest endeavor: Treachery.
Treachery of Images by René Magritte
Treachery is an inscrutable gourmand on myriad levels, and adults only need apply. When Shawn initially set himself about the task of descriptive naming, ‘This is Not a Pipe” sprang to mind: a double entendre referring to surrealist painter René Magritte’s “The Treachery of Images” (1929). The painting depicts a pipe underlined with the phrase Çeci n’est pas une pipe (I’ve been agonizing over shapes; Magritte’s looks closest to the half-bent billiard shape). Unfortunately, Demeter already had a fragrance by that name. The concept of treachery niggled nonetheless, a symbolism which haunted Shawn. What if a dark leathery gourmand was composed of hedonistic indulgences – the sort which, when taken in excess – do little to extend one’s longevity? All the things we adore which make existence delightful and dangerous when exaggerated…moderation be damned. Down the rabbit hole he went and I followed suit.
La Corde Sensible” by René Magritte (1960)
In search of sweetness and light? Look elsewhere. Treacle is verboten; these are shadowy delights, more intense and full-bodied. Simply because you see sweet almond listed doesn’t render Treachery sticky with heliotropin or cotton-candy sweet because of vanilla absolute. These are fragrant accents; the vanilla is sufficiently woody and a little dirty besides. Cocoa suggests darkest chocolate, not milk or white (what IS white chocolate, anyway???). If there are berry nuances they serve as piquant, lively flavor zings inferred, not cudgeled. Not truly a pipe tobacco, Shawn takes a gorgeous tobacco absolute, seasons generously with labdanum and burnishes it with saffron for crafty seduction. Oakwood teases us down the Highland malt path (I’m not complaining), with davana contributing her own brand of dried fruit balsamic booziness. Sweet spices gentle the deeper, moodier materials with delicate grace. This lovely willful perfume is as layered as an onion as it unfolds seamlessly in its own serpentine fashion.
Discovery by René Magritte (1927)
Treachery is no lightweight performer; it has astonishing longevity (even through multiple hand washings) and creates a powerful force field surrounding the wearer. I dabbed, and it lasted over 14 hours! It’s certain to be a must go-to for cool climes – but I’m curious to see how it behaves in warm weather. Best to dose accordingly with this potent potion.
Notes: tobacco absolute, labdanum, cocoa, vanilla absolute, davana, whiskey, spices, saffron, berries, sweet almond, oakwood absolute.
Sample provided by the perfumer – many thanks, Shawn! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
Maher Olfactive Treachery
Thanks to the generosity of Shawn Maher of Maher Olfactive, we are able to offer an advance bottle of Treachery which launches July 18, 2020 for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, please leave a comment explaining what appeals to you about Ida’s review and where you live. Do you have a favorite Chatillon Lux or Maher Olfactive perfume? Draw closes 6/20/20
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