Maison d’Etto Macanudo via Maison d’Etto
Morning, when the meadows are still damp with ground fog, the rising sun just cutting the cloud cover. Horses stamping, impatient to run, their breaths warm and misted against the morning chill. In the air hangs the sweet clover scent of fresh-cut hay, the smell of damp earth clods from where the horses kicked and stamped, impatient to run. It’s the kind of morning to set the blood racing, eager for beauty. Macanudo, by rising star perfumer ( CaFleureBon Best of Scent 2019) Mackenzie Reilly, is the smell of an early spring day in Kentucky horse country just as the sun is coming up.
Stella McCartney photographed by Annie Liebovitz for Vogue
Maiso d’Etto’s ethos is connection — to self, to others, to nature, to the world, and connection to purpose. Central, too, is founder and equestrienne Brianna Lipovsky’s love of horses.
The Maison d’Etto Team perfumers Mackenzie Reilly, Carlos Benaim, Celine Barel and seated Brianna Lipovsky via instagram
As she explains, “The debut collection is inspired by the horses that have taken me on personal journeys — connecting me to myself, others, nature and the world through unspoken and invisible languages. Each fragrance represents a horse that has had a pivotal impact on my life and the scent brings to life each of the magical moments.”
Mackenzie Reilly, image via The Fragrance Foundation©
Right at the outset, Macanudo lets you know you’re in for a jaunty, lighthearted ride. It opens with a big smile – nuttiness from tonka bean and the fresh hay sweetness of coumarin accompanied by soapy, splashy neroli. There’s a dab of bright citrus in there from bergamot, like a dapple of sunlight. A particularly green vetiver soon arrives, bringing with it the smell of new grass and rooted soil; the cool, almost minty smell of an open field where the frost is just burning off.
Photo by Zoe Berkovic for Velveteen Clothing
Meadow flowers are blooming, the glowing, hypnotic smell of narcissus rising from damp ground. Gradually, quietly, the vetiver and warms up into the buoyant aroma of fresh grass. Some light but slightly sweaty musk begins to cantor through the middle of the fragrance, along with a thin, mineral smell of wet ground, a subtle reminder that horses and riding are key inspirations for this fragrance.
Described as a “modern vetiver” on the Maison d’Etto website, Macanudo to me is foremost a hay fragrance, but greener, sparkier. It has a beguiling touch of innocence about it; nothing here feels overthought, but as well-chosen and carefree as a crisp cotton shirt with good jeans. Wearing it is like leaving city worries and suburban traffic snarls aside, abandoning your car by the roadside to head across the fields. It’s a breath of fresh air from a talented young perfumer.
Notes: Fresh grass, bergamot, hay, jonquil, wet earth, Haitian vetiver, tonka bean.
Disclaimer: Sample set of Maison d’Etto fragrances generously supplied by Maison d’Etto. My opinions are my own.
— Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
Editor’s Note: Macanudo is a Spanish word and also the name of the well-known premium, really expensive Cigar brand. Depending on the Latin American country can mean great,hip, or magnificent. I know a cigar aficionado and just thought I would mention it.
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