Perfume Legends II: French Feminine Fragrances Book Review (Michael Edwards)+ Fragrance Legends Draw

Perfume Legends II French Feminine Fragrances book review

Author/fragrance expert Michael Edwards & images from Perfume Legends II (Photos courtesy of Michael Edwards/Fragrances of the World)©

One of my favorite things in Paris is frequenting the city’s second-hand bookstores, where – with a bit of luck and lots of patience – one could uncover printed treasures of all sorts. My regular visits have been largely rewarding, but no more so than the time I found two perfect copies of the 1996-published “Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances” by Michael Edwards. Mr. Edwards, renowned perfume specialist and leading authority on fragrance classification (he’s been releasing his annual “Fragrances of the World” reference books since 1983) was the first author to give voice to the very people who had created some of the most beloved fragrances of all time: the perfumers themselves. His extensive interviews with them, as well as with brand owners, creative directors, bottle and fashion designers, were seamlessly blended with his own research and engaging story-telling, resulting in his substantial work “Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances”. At the time the book covered forty-five iconic scents (ranging from the end of the 19th century to 1992), and its tirage was soon exhausted; in fact, since the early 2000s, obtaining a copy has been a major goal of many a devoted perfumista. Fortunately, Mr. Edwards’ outstanding book is once more available, in a revised/updated 360-page edition enriched with nine additional “fragrance legends”, under the title “Perfume Legends II: French Feminine Fragrances”. Seven of the new chapters are dedicated to fragrances that were released after 1991 (Shiseido Féminité du Bois,  Maurice Roucel’s Rochas Tocade,  Calice Becker’s Dior J’Adore, FlowerbyKenzo, CHANEL Coco Mademoiselle,  Bertrand Duchaufour  for L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu, Frederic Malle’s Portrait of a Lady by Dominique Ropion), while two more perfumes from previous decades, Robert Piguet Fracas and  Guerlain Nahéma, have also been also included (the former one had been omitted in 1996 due to its – then – mediocre formulation, the latter because it hadn’t been possible to discuss its creation with perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain).

Perfumers Guy Robert & Edmond Roudnitska

Perfumers Guy Robert & Edmond Roudnitska

After the author’s preface (paying special tribute to Guy Robert and Edmond Roudnitska, the two great perfumers that offered Mr. Edwards their precious help, guidance and advice), and the wonderful 1996 foreword by Monsieur Roudnitska himself (where we learn that the brilliant perfumer regarded Vol de Nuit as Jacques Guerlain’s most modern creation, and Bois des Îles as Ernest Beaux’ finest one), the saga of French Perfume Legends starts unfolding with two 19th century creations:  Houbigant Fougère Royale (1882) and Guerlain  Jicky (1889). Fifty more fragrances follow, all them fulfilling the following three criteria: featuring an accord so innovative that it inspired other compositions, having an impact so profound that they shaped trends, and possessing an appeal that transcends fashion.

Michael Edwards Perfume Legends II French Feminine Fragrances greatest women's perfumes of all time

Full list of fragrances included in Perfume Legends II (Photo: Despina Veneti)©

Each individual chapter offers a vivid and accurate account of the time when the respective fragrance was created, followed by sections with comprehensive, in-depth information about the fragrance’s development, and bottle design. Every aspect of a fragrance release is discussed: inspiration and influences, difficulties and controversies, technical innovations and accomplishments, marketing, impact and aftermath… Along the way many enthralling stories emerge, like the mystery about who actually composed the fragrances of – creative and marketing genius – François Coty, the fruitful professional and personal relationship of Caron’s Ernest Daltroff and Félicie Vanpouille, the historically proven facts vs the popular myths surrounding Chanel No5, the tumultuous road towards designing the flacon of YSL Opium and releasing the scent – to name but a few… The book’s illustration includes fragrance ads, art photos, archive and historic pictures, as well several bottle design sketches, giving the publication the appeal of a coffee table book – an added bonus to its remarkable content, and superlative quality of writing.

Guerlain L’Heure Bleue & Shalimar chapters from Perfume Legends II French feminine fragrance book

Guerlain L’Heure Bleue & Shalimar chapters from Perfume Legends II (Photos: Despina Veneti)©

Apart from being a comprehensive, invaluable reference book, “Perfume Legends II: French Feminine Fragrances” is nothing short of pleasurable. The book can be read either by choosing any random chapter, or in continuity – in fact, each fragrance chapter builds upon what’s already been established in the previous ones, thus highlighting the influence of a certain creator on his/her contemporaries, or the ones that followed. One of the greatest gifts the book offered me was the chance to know what the perfumers/creative directors thought about their fellow professionals, past or contemporary ones, colleagues or competitors: for instance, Jacques Polge shares his memories of Germaine Cellier’s visits to Grasse; Guy Robert celebrates Ernest Daltroff’s avant-garde genius; Jean-Paul Guerlain shares that he’d have liked to have created Carven Ma Griffe; René Bacharach names Dana Tabu as one of the greatest perfumes ever created; Sophia Grojsman declares her love for Guerlain Après L’Ondée; Max Gavarry expresses his enthusiasm for the innovative construction of Chanel Coco Mademoiselle; Jean-Claude Ellena hails Roudnitska’s Diorella as a “work of human spirit”…

Jean Patou Joy review

Jean Patou Joy & Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps chapters from Perfume Legends II (Photos: Despina Veneti)©

After finishing “Perfume Legends II”, I felt closer to some – rather elusive – giants of perfume history (like Ernest Beaux or Henri Alméras), while enlightened about the crucial contributions of several non-perfumers (like the maverick Sr. Vice President of Quest International in the 1990s, Yves de Chiris, or the bold and brilliant Maurice Roger, CEO of Parfums Dior till the mid 1990s). I must admit that some of my favorite stories involved the role of love in the creation of some of the most successful fragrances of all time: Arpège was created as a birthday gift for Mme Lanvin’s beloved daughter, Marie-Blanche, just as Femme was intended as a wedding present from Marcel Rochas to his beautiful bride, Hélène (Edmond Roudnitska had, however, already created the scent simply for his own pleasure). And where else than in the House of Guerlain have family bonds and love stories been the driving force behind so many fragrant creations, most notably those by the great Jacques Guerlain?

Vintage Hermès Calèche

Hermès Calèche & YSL Opium chapters from Perfume Legends II (Photos: Despina Veneti)©

As far as major differences between the first and this revised edition are concerned, apart from the additional nine chapters mentioned above, two fragrances of the 1996 edition – the original 1987 releases of Nina by Nina Ricci and Byzance by Rochas – have been omitted in the new book (both scents were discontinued, and, as Mr. Edwards put it, “their appeal did not prove enduring”). Overall, “Perfume Legends II” is perfectly up-to-date, with even richer illustration than before. Naturally, several segments that included outdated information have been rewritten (like the Jean Patou Joy final chapter, since the company is not family-owned anymore). I’ve also noticed that the author’s newer research resulted in several credit changes concerning the bottle designs (for example, the Guerlain L’Heure Bleue/Mitsouko flacons are now attributed to Baccarat, instead of Raymond Guerlain, and the Chanel ones to Isidore Bleichner of Cristallerie de Saint-Louis, instead of Coco Chanel herself). Lastly, there are a few credit changes concerning the fragrances themselves (Miss Dior is now solely attributed to perfumer Paul Vacher, eliminating the co-credit to Jean Carles, whereas Anne-Marie Saget is co-credited with Jean-Paul Guerlain for the creation of Samsara).

YSL Paris & Grès Cabotine chapters from Perfume legends II French Feminine Fragrances by Michael Edwards

YSL Paris & Grès Cabotine chapters from Perfume Legends II (Photos: Despina Veneti)©

Among my numerous fragrance-related books, Mr. Edwards’ ground-breaking œuvre “Perfume Legends” has got to be the one that I have revisited most throughout the years I own it. The updated/enriched “Perfume Legends II: French Feminine Fragrances” is a tome in which perfume lovers can safely invest, for it’s going to be cherished for many years to come…

Disclaimer: This review was based on a copy provided by the publisher – many thanks. The opinions are my own.

Copies of the book can be ordered at the Fragrances of the World site, for $145/140€.

– Despina Veneti, Senior Editor

Perfume Plume Event Perfume Legends II Michael Edwards and Rodrigo Flores Roux of Givaudan

Perfume Legends II: French Feminine Fragrances photo of Michael  Edwards and Rodrigo Flores Roux courtesy of Perfumed Plume©  

Editor’s note: Perfumed Plume will be hosting an exceptional evening on Wednesday, November 13, 2019 at the Society of Illustrators in New York (East 63rd Street, NY 10065), in the presence of Mr. Michael Edwards. The renowned author/fragrance expert will be sharing informative insights and fascinating stories from his long research for his book Perfume Legends II, followed by a conversation with Givaudan Sr. Perfumer/Vice President Perfumery, Rodrigo Flores-Roux. The detailed program: 5.30-6.00 pm Cocktails; 6.00-7.30 pm Welcome, Presentation, Q&A; 7.30-8.00 pm Book Signing & Reception. Tickets can be purchased at: https://perfumedplume.com/

Michael Edwards’ Perfume Legends II & Guerlain miniatures (Photo: Despina Veneti)©

Michael Edwards' French Perfume Legends II French Feminie Fragrances book review

Thanks to the generosity of Michael Edwards and the team of Fragrances of The World, we have a draw for a  hard cover copy of “Perfume Legends II: French Feminine Fragrances” for one registered reader WORLDWIDE. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about  reading Despina’s review, if you are familiar with Michael Edwards’and where you live. Draw closes 11/12/2019

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We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our  blog feed…or  your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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33 comments

  • chrisskins says:

    First comment?! Wow, just wow. All my perfume guides are curly from use; this is a fantastic edition to any fanatic’s library. The review noting that L’Air did Temps didn’t hold up and hence omitted in this volume is perfume gossip gold. I am not familiar with Michael Edwards, but I am now. I live in NY, USA.

  • FC says:

    This is amazing draw as I take an intellectual approach to perfumery. I tried to read the list of perfumes mentioned and I believe I have been fortunate to own/smell most of them except few. Of course, I have been familiar with Michael Edwards for a long time. I am in US.

  • Despina Veneti says:

    Hello @chrisskins, in my review it’s mentioned that the Nina Ricci fragrance that is omitted in Perfume Legends II is the original 1987 release of Nina. L’Air du Temps is actually included in the updated book, just like it was in the first edition.
    Kind regards, and good luck in the draw.
    Despina Veneti, Sr. Editor

  • chrystyna says:

    Despina’s review is so interesting, because you can form a clear opinion about Mr Edwards’ book. In fact, this seems to be more than a book, it’s an encyclopedia, which everybody really interested in perfumery should own and study. Thank you for the review and for the draw!

  • JH says:

    Oh my this is one of my dream book! I’d have got one except for the price… I especially enjoyed the part where perfumers talk about others’ work! I hope I’m lucky enough to read it fully.
    Thanks for the draw! I live in France.

  • roseylis69 says:

    What a great book to have. The history of perfumes. You don’t think about what people wore in The past. Would love to have to read. USA

  • Billiestimpson says:

    I’ve only gotten into perfume in the last few years and was always so sad that I’d missed out on Michael Edwards’ now rare original print of perfume legends. This review reminds me how comprehensive his analysis of the world and stories of the real people surrounding a classic was, and how rich some of the stories behind the classics actually are. I live in Brisbane, Australia 🙂

  • Marq says:

    Hi,I’m particularly happy that the reviewer called out the stories about how perfumers admired other perfurmer’s work. I know of Edwards’ books, his online database of scents. I am so glad there is a new edition of this book! I live in the USA.

  • miha says:

    I hope I’m lucky enough to win this book. Despina’s review is complete, detailed and makes you want this new edition of the book. I’m not familiar with Michael Edwards, but I am now. I live in Romania, EU

  • andrasb says:

    Delighted to have found out about this book and its author! I didn’t know the writings of Mr. Michael Edwards, but I would be very happy to read it, as it seems very interesting! I live in Romania.

  • Salem says:

    I heard a lot about this book, but never got it in my hands. Now with Despina’s review, it caught my attention even more. I often find myself googling about classic perfumes, their year of creation, background, inspiration and it would be so great to have them all handy in such a well documented encyclopedia. Thanks. From Europe.

  • Annatar says:

    Hard-boiled perfumistas have known Michael Edwards for years, if not decades. While I’m familiar with many legends surrounding the most famous perfumes of the last century, I’d really want to know what the perfumers/creative directors thought about fellow perfumers.
    Russia

  • tannina says:

    I would love this book, because reading and dreaming about frangrances is wonderful. If it waa not so costly, i would have bought it weeks ago. Maybe i am lucky

  • donguri says:

    “…Every aspect of a fragrance release is discussed…”—now that sounds worth reading, and mr edwards worth knowing about. thank you from california

  • Dami says:

    I had heard of Michael Edwards but I am not familiar with his. Beautiful, compelling review of a book I would love to win. I am in the USA!

  • Monica Beaton says:

    What becomes a legend most? As much as I admire and respect new and upcoming perfumers, there is much to be said for those that laid the foundations of the fragrance industry. I remember when I first started my interest in perfume, Michael Edward’s fragrance wheel was invaluable. It was from him that I learned the difference between an Oriental and a Cyphre. Wonderful story Despina – thank you for sharing it.

  • Teresa says:

    I really enjoyed this article and becoming aware of another ‘perfume encyclopedia ‘…what a special treat to hear about fragrances from educated perfumers and experts in the field of perfumery rather than from reviews by wearers of the scent. Thank you for the chance! I am in the US.

  • newnosejob says:

    Have always wanted to read this book, this review makes me glad I’ve waited for the updated version! USA here.

  • Jos says:

    I liked specifically the part where we can all get closer to perfume history. I would love the opportunity to do just that. Living in the EU

  • beangrower says:

    I most enjoyed the description of the historical element of the book, i.e., that the book goes beyond reviews and notes of the fragrances, to interviews with perfumers and the history of the development of the scents. I am not familiar with Michael Edwards. USA. thank you.

  • jenbat says:

    This is such good news, I can’t wait to lay my hands on this. Especially for the insider gossip as Despina describes, of parfumeurs commenting on the works of others. Thank you for the draw, I live in Canada.

  • sillage4ever says:

    I like the idea of how fleshed out the entire concepts behind each selected perfume seems to be with reviews and interviews and assorted collected information. Sounds like a real step behind the curtain of the perfume industry.

    I live in the USA.

  • wallygator88 says:

    i’m fairly new to the world of fragrances and I will be checking this book out. Despina’s review makes a very convincing case for why I should be reading this book.

    I an not familiar with the works of Micheael Edwards, but I would like to be.

    Love from Madison, WI, USA

  • skinmusk says:

    Thank you for this lovely review and draw opportunity. I particularly appreciate the detailed explanation about the differences between the original and the updated edition. I have loved Michael Edwards’ contributions to the perfume world since the 90s, and was ecstatic to discover that Perfume Legends II was published this year. I live in Singapore.

  • wildevoodoo says:

    As an avid reader and perfume junkie, this book sounds like a fascinating and well-researched collection of insights into the most influential fragrances of the last century and beyond. The selection process for which would be included in the second edition (and which would be removed due to their lack of enduring appeal) is very interesting, and I’d love to read about the history and origin stories of some of my favorites as well as those that are unknown to my nose. It’s a shame I am not close enough to NY to make it to Mr. Edwards’ discussion at the Society of Illustrators. I am in the US 🙂

  • LORI LAWS says:

    Michael Edwards is a legend and I’ve always wanted to own his books! I loved the explanations of the notes. I am lucky to have tried most of those mentioned. I had no idea about this: “the original 1987 releases of Nina by Nina Ricci and Byzance by Rochas – have been omitted in the new book (both scents were discontinued, and, as Mr. Edwards put it, “their appeal did not prove enduring”) as Nina was my first perfume. I am so excited for this draw and I live in the US!

  • smm13 says:

    I am not familiar with Michael Edwards, but this looks like an amazing book. Such a great way to get into the minds of the great perfumers. I particularly enjoyed how the review pointed out those aspects of the book. I live in the USA.

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    Michael Edwards is the last word o perfumes I hope I win because I love the history of perfumes and perfumery latest designers and past designers. Cheers from Uk

  • Amaziz89 says:

    I am familiar with Michael Edwards and his work in the perfume industry I loved how perfumers commented on others works. Thanks from UK

  • Flowergirlbee says:

    I loved how detailed despina’s review was.i too found a pristine copy of michael’s first book in an op shop.i had been borrowing it from my local library over and over again.i couldn’t believe my eyes, my luck ,when i saw that black spine in the cooking section of the book shelf.i live in melbourne australia.thanks so much for the giveaway.