In 2009, Hermès introduced two fragrances to stand alongside their iconic cologne created by Francoise Caron in 1979, Eau D'Orange Verte, on the occasion of its 30th anniversary. The two fragrances were Eau de Pamplemousse Rose and Eau de Gentiane Blanche, both by in house  Hermès perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. who joine the Company in 2004.. I went and read a few reviews of this double launch and mostly people preferred Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, which went on to become a success; its more traditional citrus was exciting to those who wanted that sparkling grapefruit top note.

Advertisement for Moxie soda featuring ballplayer Ted Williams. Moxie contains gentian root, and is still produced

Eau de Gentiane Blanche seemed to be the wallflower at the party. Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena described is as “a counterpoint to tradition.” It is not a traditional cologne by any means, aside from being refreshing. Gentian root is an ingredient in bitters, is used in tonics and beverages, and is one of the anchoring ingredients of the perfume, which imparts a bitter, almost medicinal aroma that is actually really pleasing, and somehow cooling. White musks are prominent, but it is not reminiscent of one of those over-laundrified clean scents, mostly because Eau de Gentiane Blanche is not clean. A touch of rooty iris and a dab of dry incense round out this simple but addictive cologne.

"Gentian" by Redouté

Addictive it is, too. Since I have had a bottle I have reached for it as much as my more citrusy fragrances, which have seen high rotation this summer. It is both uplifting and comfortable, perfect for day and evening alike. I am wearing it now, and even though I have had a stressful couple of days at work, I feel serene as the cologne wafts around me and I can’t stop taking whiffs of that interesting bitterness.

"Girls on the Bank of the Seine" by Gustave Courbet

Where does this take me? What visions do I see? It takes me to the side of a pond surrounded by foliage and the little blue trumpets of gentian violet flowers, which immediately stain my clothes forever. As I have crushed the flowers, a bitter-sweet aroma rises, surrounding me with healing scent. I place my feet in the pond and lie back, looking up at the cloud-dotted sky. Small fish nibble at my toes, but the smell around me is so intoxicating I just let them. I close my eyes and doze, and as the intermittent sunshine warms my skin, I feel the scent rising in the air.

Master Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena

I’m a little sorry that Eau de Gentiane Blanche was released at the same time as Eau de Pamplemousse Rose. I feel like M. Ellena’s non-traditional approach would have been more accepted if it had been launched on its own. In my mind, it is truly an unsung perfume hero: refreshing, intriguing, addictive, wonderful to wear, and a bit overlooked.

Notes: white musk, gentian root, iris and incense

Disclosure: My bottle was supplied by Hermès. Eau de Gentiane Blanche is available at Hermès and Hermès stockists.

Tama Blough, Managing Editor

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