Perfume Reviews: Aether Arts Perfume Saffrón and Red Dodecahedron (Amber Jobin) 2016 + Synesthesia and Scent Draw

Painting by Karen Appleton ©

Many of us experience something like a cross modal or synaesthetic view of the world every day. Scents are perceived as textures: textures as shapes, shapes can translate to musical notes and sounds can manifest as color.  Synesthesia (which can also be spelled Synasethesia), once considered a rare gift or even an affliction, now appears to be a more common mode of perception than was previously thought. I have used my own synaesthetic experiences of "geometry as sound" to create templates for musical compositions.  Perfumers seem to be especially sensitive and responsive to cross modal suggestions and often create scents that approximate these effects for their customers.

Self Portrait: Amber Jobin ©

Amber Jobin of Aether Arts Perfume has an amazing talent for translating visual images, geometry, and color into scent. Amber is an award winning artisan perfumer whose aroma art expressions encompass such diverse themes as: Cannabis, Burning Man, Vintage, Steampunk, and Ozone/Marine scents.  John Frum, the 4th perfume in her Burner Series, was the 2014 winner of the Arts and Olfaction Artisan Perfumer Award and Love for 3 Oranges was a 2016 Finalist. "Perfume as an interpersonal art form is my passion." says Amber.  "I love to create art in air – a shared olfactory journey between the wearer and the perfumer." Two of Amber's recent creations, Saffrón and Red Dodecahedron (No. 7 in The Burner Series) are examples of her ability to transform visual impressions into olfactory experiences.

Leonardo da Vinci divine geometry dodecaedro.

Amber Jobin was inspired to create Red Dodecahedron fragrance after contemplating Leonardo da Vinci's series of drawings for Luca Pacioli's book on sacred geometry, De Divina Porportione (On the Divine Proportion – 1509) featured as part of the 2016 Burning Man Art Festival.  Her fascination with the artwork of da Vinci seems more than a coincidence. The regular (pentagonal) dodecahedron, one of the five Platonic solids, has been a metaphysical and historical symbol of the divine for over 2,000 years and is considered a concrete representation of the 5th element (the ether or aether), referenced in the name of Amber Jobin's company – Aether Arts Perfume.

Leonardo da Vinci Flower Study

Red Dodecahedron begins with a cool, russet hue suggesting fruit peels, wet grass, the fresh apple quality of chamomile and a touch of black pepper.  As the scent evolves and grows it morphs from the fragrant fruity rhombs and herbal pentacles of the opening to a three dimensional, dewy rose, blooming in slow motion. The rose unfolds, revealing a heart of rich woods and resins that give substance to the airy flowers and watery fruit, creating a solid three-dimensional presence. 

Leonardo da Vinci A Copse of Trees

Sandalwood, patchouli, frankincense and benzoin "ground and center" the perfume with dark nuances of earth and a suggestion of incense and fire.   Red Dodecahedron is a luscious rose fragrance that glows warmer and brighter as the hours go by. The image and the scent of Red Dodecahedron evoke the cubic crystalline structures and colors of minerals and gems such as garnet and pyrite, calling forth the ancient art of sacred geometry and politely enveloping my skin in a ruddy magic for up to six hours. Notes:  Spice, black pepper, rose, chamomile, woody notes, Mysore sandalwood patchouli, frankincense and benzoin.

From The History of Saffron wikipedia

Saffrón: Saffron, a spice derived from the dried bright red/orange stigmas of the saffron crocus (Crocus sativus), has been cultivated for more than 3,500 years and remains one of the world's most costly substances. It takes one acre of land and intense hands-on labor to produce one pound of saffron. In addition to use as a culinary spice, saffron has served as an intense, luminous yellow dye and is still valued for its medicinal properties.

Mother and Child Milt Kobayashi©

Amber Jobin's Saffrón was inspired and named for her mother Saffrón, and intended to embody the soft, nurturing qualities of motherhood and the tough resilience as well.  Saffrón is an immediate, bright blast of very intense yellow, exploding to cadmium orange.   The slightly bitter, hay-like and metallic sweetness of the saffron is thrown up against a tangy peach accord and amazing sueded leather.  This opening is fortified with Cananga oil, similar to, but less floral than related distillations of Ylang Ylang. Saffron is "tough love" – warm, edgy, comforting and powerful, one of those fragrances that gives you a feeling of protection and security.

Milt Kobayashi My Andrea

The initial sillage is quite bold, becoming more reclusive as it dries down. Amber calls Saffrón a "leather-gourmand".   At first the gourmand aspect eluded me but after a couple of wearings I found the amber at the heart of the fragrance, enhanced with turmeric, hazelnut and vanilla, to be irresistibly delicious. After about seven hours of taste temptations, Saffrón dries down to a sueded vanilla, tinged with pipe tobacco and a memory of the initial vivid and luminous saffron.One of the more memorable perfumes I have recently experienced. Notes: Saffron absolute, pink pepper, peach accord, Cananga oil, Jasmine absolute, Tobacco absolute, amber, turmeric, hazelnut, vanilla and sueded leather.

Both Red Dodecahedron and Saffrón are available in perfume oil format, comparable to a 45% extrait.

Many thanks to Amber Jobin for the generous samples of Red Dodecahedron and Saffrón.  My opinions are my own.

Gail Gross, Editor

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Thanks to the generosity of Amber Jobin of Aether Arts Perfume, we have a choice of one 9 ml bottle parfum extrait of either Red Dodecahedron or Saffrón for one registered reader in the US, or for our registered readers  worldwide we have one sample set of both perfumes.  (Be sure to register or your comment will not count.) To be eligible, please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Red Dodecahedron or Saffrón, based on Gail’s reviews.  Also please tell us where you live and if you have a favorite Aether Arts Perfume and have you ever experienced fragrance related synesthesia. Draw closes 3/06/2017.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

  

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


18 comments

  • Amber is one of the most seductive and at the same time comforting smell for me. This is the 1st time came across a perfume with turmeric.

    Saffron has been know for ages for its fragrance, will love to see who all of these blend.

    In USA.

  • GrandmaGaga says:

    Although as a mother and grandmother, Saffron sounds very intriguing, Red Dodecahedron, described as a luscious rose fragrance that glows warmer and brighter as the hours go by, may just be the answer to my hunt for a warm rose perfume. I have never tried any scents by this house but I would love to! I am in the US and, as always, thank you for the chance. Fragrance related synesthesia? Perhaps; I’ll have to think on that for awhile!

  • The topic of synesthesia has always fascinated me. I’ve never had any experiences with overt synesthesia (fragrant or otherwise) but being a creative person I can certainly see how this could inspire the creative process. What appeals to me about Saffrón is the idea of a leather-gourmand… protective and comforting. Sounds intriguing. I don’t have any favorite Aether Arts Perfumes as this is the first I am hearing of this house. I would be interested in winning Saffrón if chosen. I live in the USA. Thanks for the draw!

  • Sadly I have never experienced synesthesia and it’s even difficult to imagine how it would be to have such experience.
    Red Dodecahedron sounds great to me. Black pepper is what I love in fragrances (and in food too). I would like to win a sample set. Thank you for the draw! I live in the EU.

  • acquiredtaste says:

    Saffron appeals to me as it has been described as leather gourmand which is a category I have not tried before. I don’t think I’ve experienced fragrance synesthesia.

  • “intended to embody the soft, nurturing qualities of motherhood and the tough resilience” -this is SO sweet, and I absolutely love the story behind Saffrón. I don’t experience synesthesia, but I do assign colors to fragrances based on their notes, if that makes sense.. rosy florals tend smell red/pink, aquatics are always some type of blue, etc. I’ve never tried anything from Aether Arts, but cadmium orange sounds (looks?) like a perfect choice for Saffrón! In the US 🙂

  • Rose Dodecahedron sounds great, too, but the fact that Saffrón “gives you a feeling of protection and security” makes it irresistible at the moment. (The artwork for this piece is, as usual, perfect.) The only time I’ve come across Aether Arts perfumes was at a FRAGments event in L.A. It was the first perfume event I ever attended, and unfortunately my nose was completely burnt out by the time I got to that part of the room. As for synesthesia, there is a certain fragrance material (I don’t know what it is, but it’s in MFK Absolue pour le Soir, Amouage Jubilation 25, and Rochas Femme) that strikes me as scratchy and brown, like burlap. I’m in the US.

  • Having just finished a book on Leonardo da Vinci, the Red Dodechedron appeals me based on the notes as well. I’ve never sniffed nothing from this house. It sounds like this is another one to add to my list. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • cinnamon tree says:

    Fragrance-related synesthesia must be a wonderful feeling. I’ve had a similar experience a few times, but it was music connected with images. I hope my sense of smell will join this kind of experience one day.
    I have’n tried anything from Aether Arts yet. Both fragrances sound lovely and I would like to win a sample set. I live in the EU, thanks for the draw.

  • Wow, peach, leather and saffron together sounds amazing. Also it’s cool that it was inspired by her mom! I don’t know if I’ve experienced legit synesthesia, but I used to listen to music and design clothes, like each song would call to mind an arrangement of fabric and structure. I haven’t tried anything from Aether Arts, but Burning Man is on my list. I live in Canada, thank you for the draw!

  • I love Seths description of the Saffron elements, being a fan of Saffron that partnership with tobacco and tumeric, the leathery element is oh so enticing- and the Mother who has to be resilient and tender- we mothers do:) Burning man is on my list as well and its getting closer, I live in New Zealand, a small trek away and no, I’ve not really experienced fragrance synesthesia…Thank you for the draw and keeping us internationals in the loop.

  • ntabassum92 says:

    Oh my gosh, Saffron sounds amazing, saffron with tangy peach and warm sweetened spices is just…mmm…I am in the US. I have never tried Aether Arts Perfume, and fragrance related synesthesia…hmmm…some perfumes take me to very specific places in my imagination. Places that I have never been, but I can imagine all the colors and textures of the scene, and they are usually in forests ^.^ I would choose Saffron, although both perfumes sound mind blowing.

  • doveskylark says:

    I tend to think of old vintage Caron perfumes as silk sheets. When I am tense or troubled I reach for those, especially if they are leathery or smoky. The Saffron fragrance sounds like just the scent I would choose to comfort myself in a tense moment.
    I woud choose the 9ml Saffron.
    i live in the USA.

  • Toblerone says:

    Perfume being an interpersonal form of art is one of the best definition I have ever read and I fully agree.
    As for synesthesia, I can only tell some “hot” perfumes from the “cold” ones.

    I like saffron very much and I am very curious about this scent. Thank you for the draw, I am in the EU.

  • Red Dodecahedron ” solid three-dimensional presence” (and the spice and pepper notes) appeal to me based on Gail’s review. I live in the US and have not yet had the pleasure of wearing an Aether Arts Perfume. I don’t believe I have the ability to transform visual impressions into olfactory experiences, but I’m trying to pay more attention in order to develop it.

  • Iphigenia says:

    What I found truly appealing is Red Dodecahedron, because it is described in this review: “as a luscious rose fragrance that glows warmer and brighter”
    I never had the opportunity to try any perfume from this house and I am very eager to do so.
    Thank you for the lovely review and generous draw. Fragrance synesthesia, the combination of different notes to different landscapes and seasons like the smell of pines during autumn/winter time, or roses in full bloom during spring/summer.
    I am a registered reader living in EU.