NEW FRAGRANCE REVIEW: Phaedon Collection + Six Pack of Simplicity Sample Set Draw

One trend I have noticed over the past year and a half or so has been the release of the greater than four fragrance collection. While it complicates my job when I get another group of fragrances to assess it usually comes from a perfumer who I admire and so it is worth the effort. One thing that is difficult when you get these collections is that you can’t help but pick out a winner and thus the remainder can be seen as losers; which is too bad. I think one of the reasons for releasing these collections like this is to have something for everyone.

The most recent collection to cross my path is Phaedon. The line was inspired by the story of Phaedon the house slave who so impressed Socrates when he was a house guest of his master that Socrates bought him and made him his disciple. In the press materials it states Phaedon are supposed to be “simple and beautiful fragrances” built around a special note from all over the world. Pierre Guillaume was the nose behind two of these fragrances which turned out to be my two favorites.

For me this collection was particularly uneven because the simplicity of a couple of the fragrances accentuated some of the more problematic notes for me. There was also a couple that I thought were amazing.

Rue Des Lilas is what it promises lily and more lily as both white lily and lily of the valley mix with palisander and powdery musc. This felt like it was a gilded lily as the regular lily and the lily of the valley upped the lily quotient and with the powdery facets at the end this one just never came together for me. If you like powdery lily this is going to be a good one for you.Rue des Lilas means Street of Lilac but as one who has a house surrounded by lilac this always was about the lilies on my skin.

Pluie de Soleil is the fruity floral of this group; lemon, pineapple, and strawberry make up the fruit. Freesia is the floral and sandalwood is the woody foundation. As with Rue des Lilas this is just too much for my palate as this one tilts too sweet for me. All three fruit notes come across as distinct and lively but I would have preferred only one of them instead of all three. The freesia and sandalwood try and counterbalance the fruit but Pluie de Soleil stays olfactory fruit salad from almost beginning to end. For those who like fruit this could be your choice

Noir Marine is what it promises as it attempts to be a dark aquatic fragrance. Where most aquatic fragrances tend to be bright and fresh Noir Marine attempts to have a little more heft. The notes chosen to do this are peppermint, tobacco leaf, and resins. Usually mint is a problem for me in fragrance but in Noir Marine it never seems to separate away from the tobacco and incense. Instead it adds freshness to those deeper notes and makes Noir Marine almost schizophrenic on my skin as it feels like a fresh aquatic one moment and then a rich tobacco and incense fragrance the next. This dual nature was very distracting one day and on the other day I wore it I found it refreshing. This is a nice evolution of the aquatic  standard architecture.

Grisens is the one fragrance in the collection which lives up to the credo of simple and beautiful the best of all six fragrances. There are two ingredients incense and sandalwood, both are good quality and they mix together compellingly if not terribly originally. Incense and sandalwood is sort of like the perfume version of peanut butter and jelly as slightly sweet and darkly resinous make a lovely fragrant sandwich indeed.

Cendres de The was the one I expected to like most based on the note list; cardamom, tea, ho wood, cedar and musc; and the perfumer M Guillaume. It turned out to be the one I liked second best but it isn’t because it isn’t wonderful on me there is just a better one below. Cendres de The lets the cardamom and tea take over the early development and the cardamom is a worthy foil for the tea accord. The mixed ho and cedar wood create a frame for the opening notes and musk adds a seductive sensuality to the end of this fragrance. This will be one I reach for especially when the weather begins to warm up in the spring.

Dzhari was the best of these six fragrances in the Phaedon collection. This felt like a trip to a desert caravansary courtesy of M Guillaume as first you walk by a pile of dates; rich opulent fruit redolent of dark places. Then a bit of spices along with some tonka beans. Finally you approach the terracotta pots baked by the desert sun as the clay and minerality rise underneath the opulent fruit and spices. Of all of the Phaedon fragrances this was the one that took me somewhere I’ve never been in a fragrance and it is a place I want to go over and over again.

All of the Phaedon fragrances have above average longevity and average sillage.

I think all six fragrances do live up to the ideal of being simple. While I didn’t find all of them beautiful some of the reason was because of that simplicity, as it didn’t offer my senses a place to go to when I needed to. The two I found most compelling, Cendres de The and Dzhari, were because Pierre Guillaume made them a touch more complex and that created something unusual and beautiful instead of simple. I do think there is something here for every perfumista and all of them are worth exploring until you find which bit of simplicity you find personally beautiful.

Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by fragranceandart.com.

We have a draw for a sample set of all six Phaedon fragrances courtesy of Fragrance and Art. To be eligible leave a comment on which you expect to be your favorite. Draw will end on November 15, 2011.

Your vote will count twice if you like Fragrance and Art on Facebook who are carrying some beautiful and hard to find brands.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume

Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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35 comments

  • I was just looking at these Phaedon fragrances on the Fragrance and Art website! I thought that Cendres de Thé sounded wonderful, but Dzhari does, too! I like their bottles very much. They are very classic in appearance.

  • How timely: I’ve been looking at this line and doing a bit of research. I actually am on the cusp of ordering Dzhari unsniffed and doing a split, so yes, that’s been the one I’ve expected I would like best. I love the package design.

    Some notes: I’ve heard that PG created only two of these scents himself (Dzhari and I think Grisens?). Also, Lilas means lilac, not lily… is there any hint of lilac in that one?

    Thank you for the review, Mark, and for the sample draw opportunity!

  • Dzhari sounds right up my alley, how could it not, but I am very intrigued by Noir Marine!

    Thanks for the review – I also like the bottle design quite a bit.

  • I think I would like best “cendres de the” and second best guess is “grisens”
    I would be delighted to have the chance of trying them
    thanks for the review and the draw

  • Wonderful reviews- Dzhari sounds like a winner to me! I like M Guillaume’s take on Fareb and I am curious if it would be as good. Thank you for the draw!

  • Somerville Metro Man says:

    Joe,

    You are correct that Pierre Guillaume was the nose behind only Cendres de The and Dzhari. He contacted me after the review was published to clear that up and I have corrected it in the text. I also commented on the lilac that doesn’t appear on my skin in Rue des Lilas. As pointed out by some of our French audience, and you, Rue des Lilas is Street of Lilacs but on my skin it was nothing but very powdery lily and if there is lilac in there I couldn’t find it.
    Thanks for pointing that out and the text now reflects the newer information from M Guillaume and my lack of understanding of French. 🙂

    Dzhari is something I think you will like and a split is a good way to go with it if you’re going to pull the trigger based on my review.

    Mark

  • I will go with you and the crowd and sy that Dzhari sounds like it would be my favorite. You description reminds me a little of Arabie, which I like.

  • Michelle Hunt says:

    Dzhari sounds lovely, and I’m a great admirer of PG’s work. Thank you for the opportunity to enter this draw. I am a fan of Fragrance and Art on FB!

  • Wow, they all sound rather nice, Noir Marine sounds like a must try, but the one standing out and want for me would be Dzhari, this sounds like a wonderful fragrance for the cooler weather and for me living in WI that seems to be what we are heading toward.

  • I would love to try all of them . Except Pluie de Soleil, all sound interesting. I am sure Dzhari will be my favorite.

    Thank you.

  • Grisens sounds like the scent I would love. I am an absolute sucker for the incense-sandalwood mix in a perfume. Gets me every time. Noir Marine would be second as it is completely out of my comfort-zone.

  • Indeed it sounds like there is something for everyone in here. However, when Mark says “Pierre Guillaume made (Cendres de The and Dzhari) a touch more complex and that created something unusual and beautiful instead of simple” then I’m sure of it, and so I’d believe that Dzhari with all the spices would be for me.
    Thank you for this great draw:-)

  • Everything! 🙂
    Ok, just one… I think Grisens would be my choice.
    I bet incence would smell great during this autumn and following winter… 🙂

  • OOh…these sound interesting. I think Grisens and Dzhari sound very ‘me’. Thanks for the draw.

  • Thanks for the draw!
    The whole range sounds very challenging to the nose!
    I suppose I’ll dig Candres de The because I’m an Earl-Grey-tea-lover! Moreover the cedre-musk combo is one of my favourites for a base laying the perfumes like fresh powder on my skin.
    I’m pretty curious about Noir Marine since I still can’t find an aquatic that’s appealing to me.

  • Paul-Laurentiu says:

    I think my favourite would be Cendres de The. I love cardamom and tea and that is why I wonder how would they smell together. Nevertheless I fully agree that this one would be great for spring with all its freshness and spicyness.

  • I love an attar which is made from clay, and smells like wet earth and clay pots. Gorgeous, and following that, the one I think I would like best is Dzhari

  • I believe I would love Dzhari the best but Grisens comes as a very close second. 🙂
    I’m also very interested to try PLuie de Soleil, I’m wondering what all that fruit smells like…

  • While Dzhari sounds really good. I’m mostly intrigued by Noir Marine since a dark take on acquatic perfume is something which I’ve been looking for lately.

  • tomatefarcie says:

    While all of the concepts sound interesting I expect I would like Dzhari as I love fig and tonka bean.

  • Well, knowing my usual preference for all things “Pierre” ;o), I imagine one of the 2 scents authored by Pierre himself will probably be the ones I’ll enjoy most. (i.e. either “Cendres de The” or “Dzhari”).
    ~ Although I must admit, going by the notes alone, the pure simplicity of “Grisens” has probably captured my attention most.

  • I looked over the fragrance notes at Fragrance & Art, and the one I’d like the most is Dzhari. It sounds very unique with the clay note.

  • Like most of the readers, Dzhari sounds the most interesting – fruit, spices, and tonka bean?!! Sold! Thanks for the draw.

  • Let me first say that looks like a very nice PB & J sandwich…and now Im hungry. Of all of the Phaedon Fragrances I would most like to try the Grisens. Incence and sanfdalwood always work well together for me. The discription of Grisens being the best of the six is tempting me also:)
    Thanks Cafelurebon and to Phaedon as well. As fragrant and art.com