Romano Ricci of Juliette has A Gun
The last time Romano Ricci was in New York, I was invited to meet him at a hotel room. Now that I have your attention, it was for a press conference. This is my fourth interview in six years, so there is something about Romano that continues to intrigue me as a journalist. He is the great grandson of the legendary Nina Ricci and grandson to Robert Ricci, which is the equivalent to rock royalty in the fragrance world (Juliette has a Gun sounds more like an rock band than a perfume company doesn't it?). He knew it was his destiny to become a perfumer since he was a young boy and always believed he would follow in the steps of his grandfather who has been his hero since he was a child. After Parfums Nina Ricci was sold in 2000, Romano spent six years training with an obscure company named France Fragrances without anyone recognizing his last name. He launched Juliette has A Gun in 2006 at Colette, Paris and six years later it is one of the most recognized niche fragrance brands in the world. 2012 has been a particularly busy year for Romano… so time to catch up.
Hello Romano…I know some of these questions sound familiar but they will be new to CaFleureBon readers. Where were you born and please share with us some memories of your childhood?
Romano Ricci: I was born in Paris but spent most of my childhood in Fontainebleau, near the perfume factory of Parfums Nina Ricci. At the age of 10, my grandfather taught me how to recognize the different notes and how fragrances were produced. I was very proud of him.
Romano's grandfather Robert Ricci
What is your first olfactive memory?
RR: My first olfactive memory is the smell of L’Air du Temps which perfumed the whole family factory! I really enjoyed this gardenia note that today, makes me feel at home… I have also a very strong memory about my grandfather’s perfume. I remember him, his house, his clothes smelled of Signoricci. It was a sensual and masculine fragrance. To my point of view, one of the best male fragrance ever.
I know you are a race car driver and also someone who enjoys the night life. When did you say, “OK, now I am ready to be a serious perfumer?”
RR: I am still fond of car racing and practice as much as possible, but it remains a hobby, a passion. About night life, it is more a myth than anything else! Running an international brand like Juliette is a 24/7 job that requires full personal commitment and leaves very few time for the rest.
The burning question: why did you name the company Juliette has a Gun?
RR: Working 10 years in the perfumery field, I have always thought that modern perfumery needed something else than its usual utopic messages and floral fruity fragrances… I wanted to offer a new way to look at perfumery. A universe, lost between romance and desire of independence. Juliette is armed because she affirms her personality. Juliette stands for the romantic heroine of Shakespeare; the ’gun’ is her weapon of seduction… her perfume of course.
Lou Douillon, daughter of Jane Birkin as Calamity J
Why are your fragrances are called "episodes?"
RR: Each fragrance corresponds to a facet of Juliette. Every year a different side of her personality is presented. It all started with Miss Charming (the romantic) and Lady Vengeance (the seductive) in 2006, to follow with her sophisticated side with Citizen Queen (2007), Calamity J. in 2009 (no top notes and your favorite if I remember ) and today Mad Madame, which I think you will enjoy as well. A more mature vision of Juliette, embodied in a green chypre with a metallic trail…. Rather original!
Thanks for remembering… yes I have to say I still love Calamity J and Vengeance Exteme has become a favorite too. As for Mad Madame, I am looking forward to trying it. Are you surprised by how popular the line is?
RR: It is quite surprisingly actually. When I launched the brand in exclusivity at Colette in 2006, I knew it would be make some noise, but I actually didn’t expect everything that followed. An interest from almost the whole perfume industry and an amazing success since then.
The first two (Miss Charming and Lady Vengeance) were by Francis Kurkdjian so with Citizen Queen you became a "nose". What gave you the confidence ?
RR: Before starting Juliette has a Gun, I spent 6 years working in the perfumery industry and when I decided to work with Francis Kurkdjian, I had clear ideas of what I wanted for Juliette, spending hours at the lab with him, it was a four hands work. After these different experiences, I felt ready to work by myself.
RR: They are a little bit outside of the collection actually. Instead of presenting a portrait, they are a focused on a particular ingredient. Not A Perfume, being made out of a single ingredient (Cetalox aka Ambroxan), 100% synthetic, allergen free, …quite a UFO in the perfurmery world and Midnight Oud on the agarwood which is ubiquitious today but was not so common when I launched it in 2008.
You received the 2011 Special Prize of The Fragrance Foundation France Board. Was that very emotional for you?
RR: Very few things are more rewarding then when your industry congratulates you about what you did. So really great actually.
When I last interviewed you in 2009, you told me you were looking for love and …have you found your Juliette?
RR: Still searching…
Photo Facebook: Romano Ricci drives fast cars. He raced in Les 24 hours of Le Mans
You must be fearless to be a race car driver. There must be something you are afraid of, what is it?
RR: I am afraid of heights.I am even scared to stand on a chair.
The first thing you look at when you check into your hotel room?
RR: Heehehe…the quality of the service!!
I absolutely don't believe you. I bet you look to see if there is a bottle of Veuve Clicquot on ice and call room service if there isn't. Since I am being so personal why do you wear a fedora all the time ?
Photo: Facebook- Young Romano Ricci Wearing a Fedora
RR: I wear a fedora all the time since I am 15 and even younger! It’s part of me ! It is also a nod to my grandfather and the elegance of the 50s and 60s
Do you still hang out with Erwin Creed of CREED Perfumes? You are still BFF?
RR: Yes, for 30 years! We grew up together.
Your soon to be released perfume Mad Madame has provoked a lot of interest…and controversy. Based on the press release, Mad Madame sounds like a perfume for women of a certain age we label as "Cougars" in the USA.
RR: Heheheh…It is true that it reflects a more mature personality. Now, I imagine her using her madness more at the service of Fun than for hunting young men as prey.
Lady Gaga and Glen Close
Did you have an image of a particular woman in mind when creating it, if Mad Madame was an actress who would she be?
RR: Mad Madame would be a cross between Lady GaGa and Glen Close.
OMG that is Nina Ricci's fox fur from 1930s
RR: 2 furs out of 3 were fake furs, the last one was real vintage fur belonging to… Nina herself in the 30’s! I was not even born! Who can blame me for that ?
I think that Mad Madame is the first fragrance where you listed the exact formula including the grams of each ingredient in the press release? Another well known niche brand does that and it is annoying…it's a perfume not a cake! BTW, since you list them what exactly is Rose Oxyde and Sylvester Moss? I have never heard of these terms.
RR: It is a derivation from the Rose Essence, highlighting its metallic side rather than the greasy old grandma part. Sylvester Moss is quite common with oak moss in chypre fragrances. It has a smoky woody smell. With regards to listing my exact formulation, don't be annoyed. Actually, Juliette’s clients were asking for it. People know more and more about perfumery and are curious about the precise composition. Moreover, since there are different qualities and origins of ingredients, I am not afraid of duplication…
Romano Ricci, co founder of Nose
Where will Juliette go in 2013? Where will Romano Ricci be? What about your new store Nose?
So much going on… there will be a new internet website where we will be able to ship in 48 hours around most of the world with a new dedicated team to take care of our clients. A new way to look at an internet platform. I am working on a new fragrance for Juliette and some candles. Also my new project called Nose, a new concept retail store and a website (www.nose.fr) which is demanding much of my time at the moment. I started Nose with Mark Buxton, Silvio Levi ( you know Mark and Silvio, right?) and Nicolas Cloutier and we opened the retail store June 21st.
We are devoted only to niche perfumery. We analyzed over 2500 perfumes and developed a diagnostic test for our clients based on their age, type of perfume they like, and different olfactive styles. You can take the test on line and or instore on an iPad or mobile. It is a big project and maybe a subject for our next interview together.
–Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief
Thanks to Romano Ricci and the US distributors Euro Parfum, we have a reader's choice of seven of Juliette Has a Gun's Perfumes: Citizen Queen, Calamity J, Romantina, Midnight Oud, Vengeance Extreme, Not a Perfume or (you may have to wait a month if you win) Mad Madame. I chose these because they are all composed soley by Romano. In order to be eligible, please leave a QUALITY comment with your favorite quote exchange, or something you never knew about Romano and your choice of a full sized 100 ML Juliette Has a Gun Perfume. Draw ends October 18, 2012.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.