FRAGRANCE REVIEW: Penhaligon’s Esprit du Roi and Eau Sans Pareil + Anthology Finale Draw

One of the harder things to do in life is to turn over a new leaf and get people to see you in a newer, hopefully, positive light. It is even harder when you are talking about the image of a company. Once a company gets pigeonholed it can be extremely difficult to change that perception.

That is why I am particularly pleased to see Penhaligon’s pull off that kind of reassessment from the perfumed public. For years Penhaligon’s pretty much coasted on the reputation of one amazing fragrance, Blenheim Bouquet. There were other good fragrances that were released but for whatever reason when the talk would turn to Penhaligon’s it was Blenheim Bouquet that was the fragrance that conversation revolved around, mostly.

The beginning of the change in perception began, in my opinion, back in 2008 with Elixir. Olivia Giacobetti created a sheer Oriental that was amazing. This marked the beginning of Penhaligon’s asking the rockstar perfumers to bring their talents to the house.

 

One year later Bertrand Duchaufour would create one of the best fragrances of the last few years in Amaranthine. This was part of a long and fruitful collaboration between M Duchaufour and Penhaligon’s recently. At about the same time as the release of Amaranthine Penhaligon’s announced they were going to let M Duchaufour and other perfumers have the chance to update their older creations and this was going to be a 10-fragrance set under the Anthology umbrella. Four were released in 2009, four were released last year and we are now at journey’s end with the release of the final two, Esprit du Roi and Eau Sans Pareil. Where some of the previous Anthology fragrances reached back to original formulations over 100 years old these final two only reach back to the '80’s.

Esprit du Roi

 

Esprit du Roi was first released in 1983 and for this 21st century re-imagining Bertrand Duchaufour has Esprit du Roi rise again as a woody citrus. That description does not do Esprit du Roi justice because M Duchaufour also manages to harness a number of recalcitrant notes like mint, tomato leaf, and raspberry and make them dance nicely around a rich floral core of geranium and jasmine. I was surprised at how refreshing Esprit du Roi was to wear. I wore this on a 100-degree day and it was outstanding and had great longevity and sillage even in those conditions. Esprit du Roi is another Duchaufour triumph for Penhaligon’s.

 

Eau Sans Pareil

Eau Sans Pareil  ( Fr translation unparalleled)was originally created five years later than Esprit du Roi, in 1988. As with Esprit du Roi I never tried the original and so I can only judge the present. In the present, perfumer Beverley Bayne has made a sparkling modern chypre that bursts to life like a sparkler on the Fourth of July. Mme Bayne opens Eau Sans Pareil with a full house of aldehydes over citrus. The early going feels fizzy and light. The heart is orthogonal notes of clove and licorice at right angles to jasmine, orris, and rose. The base is classic chypre and yet it feels in keeping with the liveliness Mme Bayne has in play in the earlier part of Eau Sans Pareil’s development. Eau Sans Pareil has average longevity and above average sillage. I found the lightness of Eau Sans Pareil surprising but thoroughly delightful to wear.

I have to say I am sorry to see the Anthology series come to an end as I can honestly say I enjoyed all ten of the fragrances but these last two bring this olfactory omnibus to an entirely satisfying conclusion.

Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by Penhaligon's.

Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Art direction: Michelyn Camen, EIC (the art by  Chnese painter Xi Pan)

Courtesy of Penhaligon’s we have a reader’s choice for a bottle of either Esprit du Roi or Eau Sans Pareil. To be eligible leave a comment on what your favorite fragrance of the Penhaligon’s Anthology series is, (even if you haven’t tried one) , your favorite Penhaligon by Bertrand Duchaufour and tell us your reader's choice. Draw ends September 3, 2011.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


36 comments

  • Great review. I’m really curious to try both of these — and several others that I’ve missed in the Anthology series. I will say that there are several in the original Penhaligon’s catalogue that I think are very good scents, even though they may have a bit of a stuff reputation of “old fashioned” British perfumery. I like the house quite a lot.

    It’s hard for me to pick just one of the Anthology scents as a favorite: I will have to name both Zizonia and Night-Scented Stock as amazing fragrances. I love both very much.

    Both of these new ones sound great; I’d probably be most curious to take Esprit du Roi if I were to win. Thanks again for a generous draw.

  • Wonderful reviews – I would have to go for the Sans Pareil. You’ve made it sound so wonderfully fizzy.

    I have not tried any from the Anthology line but am very curious about Night-Scented Stock, since I so love the fragrance of Stock.

  • Ahem, I guess Eau Sans Pareil wuld suit my taste. Of the Anthology series, Gardenia and Night Scented Stock are those closest to my choice even if I haven’t tried any of them yet.

  • Thank you for the draw!
    My favorite Penhaligon is Orange Blossom ..or Eau de Verveine (both by Bertrand Duchaufour) – I haven’t decide yet:) Don’t find them “old fashioned” at all – beautiful, sparcling scents!
    Would love to try Esprit du Roi if I win

  • I actually think Eau Sans Pareil sounds the most intriguing from the Anthology series, my favorite Bertrand Duchafour scent would have to be… wait how can you pick just ONE? Somewhere between L’Artisan Traversée du Bosphore, Poivre Piquant, CDG Kyoto, and Amaranthine…

    Readers choice would obviously be Eau Sans Pareil, how can anyone say no to sparkling chypre?

  • I like Night Scented Stock the best, a lovely scent which I smelled when a friend sent me a sample.

    I’m very curious about Esprit du Roi– love the sound of the tomato leaf note combined with mint and geranium!

  • Easy choice for me: I completely adore Bertrand Duchaufour’s Anthology Orange Blossom. Most of the “rockstar” orange blossom scents smell like industrial cleaner on me, but Duchaufour’s smells completely fresh and natural, like the flower itself with a few drops of dew on it. I hardly ever go through a full bottle of anything but Orange Blossom is vanishing fast.

    Of the new Anthology series, I think the one I would pick is Esprit du Roi. I’m fascinated to see how those “recalcitrant notes” are put together. If anyone can do it, Duchaufour can.

  • My favorite fragrance of the Penhaligon’s Anthology is Extract of Limes. It’s one of the best citrus colognes I have ever tried! It’s simply like freshly squeezed limes. Yum!

    My favorite Penhaligon by Bertrand Duchafour is Orange Blossom, but Sartorial is very good too.

    My choice would be Esprit du Roi. Thanks!

  • I haven’t tried any fragrances from Penhaligon’s Anthology line, but Esprit du Roi sounds very much like a scent I’d love. Thanks!

  • My favorite Duchaufour for Penhaligon’s must be Sartorial: I loved the aldehydic leathery twist on the traditional lavender cologne; but unfortunately many around still think it smells too much like “old man”.
    Of these two, I’d be interested in Esprit because of Duchaufour, and in Sans Pareil because of the name. Though from the comments I now think I should give Orange Blossom a try!

  • I have never tried any of the Anthology colecltion but Night Scented Stock sounds lovely. If I were to win I would like Sans Pareil. My favorite BD scent is CdG Avignon. Thanks!

  • I have a soft spot for Penhaligons. My favorite of the anthology series is the orange blossom…very realistic. I would love to try San Pareil.

    I know lavender doesn’t always get a lot of love, but in stressful times I love going to bed with their Lavendula sprayed on.

  • Penhaligons is such a polite merchant…needed to mention that at the start. So the bottles are divine because of how simple and modern apothicary looking they are I have a penchant for pink so I have to go with Eau Sans Peril. But I would feel lucky to get the chance to try either of these. I feel like the description makes it sound like a recital in a bottle! Citrus Sparkle and the fourth of July:) I love it! Thanks Cafleurebon for another delicious opportunity to explore culture through perfume:)

  • Penhaligons is a very well known fragrance especially among people who are into serious perfume passion. There are well made and art forms….
    These perfumes sound wonderful! Esprit de roi is my choice

    Gloria L

  • I love the notes in Eau Sans Pareil, so that would be my favorite, and the one I would love to try. My favorite Bertrand Duchaufour Penhaligon’s scent is Amaranthine. Thanks for the lovely draw!

  • I would love to try Eau Sans Pariel. I purchased Amaranthine on the first sniff. It is my first Penhaligon’s and I just love it. Thank you for the draw.

  • I’ve been a Penhaligon fan for many years !
    Currently Amaranthine is my favorite- but I love Orange Blossom, Night-Scented Stock, Hammam Bouquet, Elixir, Blenheim Bouquet, Extract of Limes…

    A LOT <3
    Lily and Spice.
    Stop me now.

  • Love extract of limes for summer and orange blossom for the spring. I would love to try eau sans pariel. thank you for the draw!

  • I haven’t tried many of the Anthology scents, but I did like the Eau de Verveine when I had a sniff. Favourite Penhaligon’s Duchaufour would probably be Sartorial, classic with a twist. For my choice I’d love to try the Esprit du Roi… I like the sound of those “recalcitrant notes” being forced to play nice with each other and I’m always curious to see what M. Duchaufour comes up with.

  • First off, I’m wondering how the Jo Malone “Bluebell” compares to the Penhaligon’s!!

    Secondly I love Duchaufour! My favorite for Pengalion’s is the Amaranthine. As for Anthology (even though I haven’t tried it would be Eau de Vervaine.

    For the drawing I’d love to try Esprit du Roi!

    thanks for the chance!

  • I will definitely say the the Eau sans Pareil is my favorite Sartorial was also kind of nice, i tried Eau Sans Pareil and absolutely love it. My choice to win would be Esprit du Roi, i am very curious about trying that one.

  • Espirit de Roi, looks like most everyone’s fav. I like the notes! I have been fond of Penhaligon’s for years….yes, I like Bluebell too! Loved the shop in London, ah!
    Please enter me in this winner’s circle.

  • Oh! I think my favorite is Jubilee Bouquet, but due to my current beeswax obsession, Sartorial is my favorite by Bertrand Duchaufour.

    I think I might have to go with Eau Sans Pareil, but it was a very narrow decision.

  • taffynfontana says:

    I have yet to try any scents from Penhaligon’s Anthology line. I would love to try Eau Sans Pareil it sounds delicious, as for Bertrand’s creations I love Amaranthine it speaks to passionate love. Please enter me in the draw I really want to get to try Eau Sans Pareil. 🙂

  • Aldehydes! Fizzy feeling! Eau Sans Pareil for me if I am the lucky winner.

    I am most intrigued with the Extract of Limes from the Anthology. I wish I tried it when I could.

    Amarinthine was made by Bertrand Duchaufour for Penhaligon’s and I know that it is loved by many.

    Thanks for the draw and the news of the fragrant world!

  • So far I think the results of the Anthology line are rather mixed. Zizonia is very interesting. I like Satorial by Bertrand Duchaufour. My choice would be Esprit du Roi.

  • I don’t know if Sartorial is part of the Anthology series, but I really like that one a lot, I’d go for Sprit du Roi. Thanks!!!

  • My fav Anthology is Zizonia . And Night-Scented Stock.
    Fav Penhaligon by Bertrand Duchaufour is Amaranthine.
    My choice is Eau Sans Pareil. I tried it and liked it a lot.

    Am I going to be the lucky one? 🙂

  • My favourite Anthology is probably Zizonia. … Then there are quite a fair few favourite Duchaufour’s of mine, but from Penhaligon’s I will have to go with Amaranthine.
    And if a lucky win, my choice is : Esprit du Roi … (As my surname, as it happens, is also “du Roi”, therefore would be a very auspicious win ! :o) ~ (Thanx !)

  • Anthology wise I would choose Zizonia …. And fave Duchaufour Penhaligon’s I would go with Sartorial.
    My choice for a luck win : Esprit Du Roi please ! …
    (I really don’t usually like the smell of tomato leaf, so hoping it’s not an an overwhelming note. I think I’d still prefer it nevertheless.

  • My favourite from Anthology series is Orange Blossom re-worked by Duchaufour. But Amaranthine is his best creation for the brand so far!
    Esprit du Roi is my choice. Thank you for the draw!

  • Well Orange Blossom is the only Anthology that I’m familiar with so…

    As for choosing between these two wonderful scents, my choice would be Eau Sans Pareil.

  • Penhaligon’s image really appeals to me, as well as the dainty Victorian bottles! I love Elixir, but have never tried Night-Scente Stock, nor Orange Blossom….as a more “white floral/rose” girl Elixir is one of the best Orientals ever though!
    I would have to guess Sartorial is a splendid Duchaufor, it is an Aromatic Fougere and I love those on men…
    Of the new ones Eau Sans Pareil sounds lovely!

  • Nathalie de La Falaise says:

    So glad to read that Esprit du Roi is back! my unmatched favourite fragrance in the cologne family.
    Happiness is called Penhaligon’s!