Dr. Helen Fisher
A recent Sniffapalooza event hosted by the founders Karen Dubin and Karen Adams entitled, Smell Perception & the Neuroscience of Personality brought together a noted biological anthropologist, a chemist with expertise in smell and perception, and a master perfumer. I arrived with my completed questionnaire in hand that mapped my personality type. Once on the floor Dr. Helen Fisher of Rutgers University, resident psychologist at Match.com, and author of several books on relationships described her four broad biologically-based personality types: Explorer/Dopamine; Builder/Serotonin; Director/Testosterone; Negotiator/Estrogen, she also explained that certain personality types are attracted to specific personality types. For example, the Director/Testosterone type is mostly attracted to the Negotiator/Estrogen type. Dr. Fisher reminded us that we are a combination of all these four types, but that we express some more than others. Dr. Syed Shamil, formerly of PepsiCo, Firmenich, and Mane posed many questions, but the central question that resonated in the room was: “Are we drawn to smell based on our personality?”
Dr. Sayed Shamil and Master Perfumer Mathieu Nardin
First up we blindly smelled the top and bottom notes from each of the four (non-gender) fragrances based on each personality type. Dr. Shamil worked with Master Perfumer of Robertet, Mathieu Nardin to create the four fragrances. As we happily smelled, we completed a survey to determine which notes we loved or disliked most. This determined if our personality profile matched one of the four fragrances. I quickly circled that I loved T2 as it had a lactonic creaminess and Amber warmth; Dr. Shamil mentioned that the Negotiator/Estrogen type would most likely be attracted to these ambery notes of empathy. As our forms were being collected a woman sitting next to me identified herself as an Explorer/Dopamine personality who happened to be wearing Goutal’s Ambre Fétiche, – a clear contradiction to the survey results. I thought…she must have a little Negotiator/Estrogen in her.
Dr. Shamil, Dr, Fisher, Mr. Nardin, and the event crowd
These four valid fragrances, entitled, DAT (Doctor’s Aromatic Treat) may lead some to wear them if they are interested in an exacting method of exploring personality traits via scent. Dr. Shamil said these fragrances have the potential for consumers to explore "who they are; who they want to be; and get them closer to whom they want to be with.” However, all this speed smelling and filling in the blanks left me blank. As I looked around the room there were some industry insiders, and many who have devoted their lives to all things scented, and I wanted to believe that our process of arriving at perfume was different.
Kelly Jones of Kelly & Jones
Kelly Jones, Founder, Creator, and Scent Sommelier of Kelly & Jones attended the event. I asked her if she thought that we are drawn to smell based on our personality. Kelly had this to say, "Fragrance is all about storytelling. I believe that we wear the fragrances that reflect our own personal stories. Our experiences – our stories – in turn shape our personalities. It's all beautifully intertwined, and scent memories are so integral to the fragrance selections that consumers make – all the way from our everyday cleaning products to a fine fragrance on a special evening."
Vintage travel stickers
Most days I choose a fragrance simply based on how it smells; as my perfume wardrobe grows, there are now many ways to start the day. There are times that I wear a perfume as a reminder of a particular place and time, or a special person. Other days I wear a fragrance for reasons that are completely intangible, unspoken, and inarticulate. Perfume can transport me to places I have never traveled to yet: India, the Bosphorus, Hawaii. Fragrance is complex. It’s hard to describe what makes me choose one fragrance over another, but the more I explore it the more I find that there are a myriad of methods and styles that continue to fascinate and lead me to olfactive places I didn’t think I would necessarily go. Perfume is art. Wearing a perfume to seduce, or attract another seems something that lives in perfume ads. Are there fragrances that my partner loves? Yes, but most of these fragrances are ones that were already set-in place before I knew him. On certain days my perfume can become an extension of who I am, the next day it offers protection against the darker elements that are lurking about. Some days perfume punctuates an outfit that I am wearing, and other days it is only about the perfumer, who will I wear and today Ellena? Ropion? At the very least our perfume reveals the dormant and assured sides of our personality; at its very best its nuances can transform us.
Valerie Vitale, Editor
Note: event photos courtesy Sniffapalooza