.Esxence 10 Years of Excellence
A mission, to adventure from my home island of Waiheke, Auckland, New Zealand and almost directly to step into the realm of Esxence. A little jet lagged perhaps but all is soothed by the fragranced air and the familiar and soon to be familiar faces. There are many facets to the Perfume Events (Pitti and Esxence) that grace Italy twice a year, I imbibe them all, with a voracity.
Entering Esxence 2018
Immediate response this year is the plethora of brands now available outside of my closeted shores. So many new faces and scents to arrive. However there are a few threads quite apparent this year, Ermano and Michelyn already coined the catchphrase of "Timeless Elegance", even within those more animalic of the offerings, an elegance of veiled pleasures pervades.
Perris Monte Carlo White Collection: Bergamotto di Calabria, Mandarino di Sicilia and Perris Monte Carlo Cedra di Diamante
At Esxence 2018, there is a transitioning of more white and light orientation to the market, brands were exhibiting “White Collections”, a move away from the denser, more Oud heavy offerings of past trends. Also a palpable shift, a move to the sublime crafting of refined perfumery, the reinvigoration of the historic capitals of Perfume Arts, Grasse, Paris, Florence. Those that caught the nose and attention, ones with a refined air, subtleties over brashness. Beauty in the details.
As you have been reading much from the team, I am going to focus on three brands from Esxence 2018: Atelier Des Ors, Perris Montecarlo and Gabriella Chieffo, the head and the nose recover from absolute excess.
A reunion with Creative Director Jean-Philippe Clermont and the meeting of fellow Kiwi, Megan Paki of Atelier des Ors was a particular favourite. The House never fails to deliver for me and its new releases are a particular delight, taking the trend of white and light to a new dimension, encompassing within the three new Ateliers Des Ors White Collection( Atelier Des Ors Nuda Veritas, Chœur des Anges and Crépuscule des Âmes) ,the transformation of dark to light and its Alchemical allegory. A symbiosis of Art, Music and Perfume that allows the wearer to explore the all too human journey we all undertake, in all its dimensions
There is a golden thread of light in notes and intent that wends its way through this collection and of course the new Bois Sikar is all one could wish for in a heady concoction of whiskey and cigar smoke. Enamourment is a foregone conclusion.
Esxence 2018: Golden distillations of Mandorino di Sicilia, Perfumer Gian Luca Perris and Cedro di Diamante, Perfumer Luca Maffei
The theme of lightness was so prevalent and also the return of Eau de Cologne styles, brightness and fresh, all citrus and greenness. One of the best examples of this at Esexence 2018 was from Perris Monte Carlo, an imminent release of 3 new fragrances, I concur with Editor-in -Chief, Michelyn Camen, that Bergamotto di Calabria, is stunning in its composition, created by Luca Maffei and Gian Luca Perris, it uses sponge Bergamot from Calabrese, also both Mandorino di Sicila and the Cedro di Diamante warrant special mention. All are sparkling renditions of citrus and the warm salinity, cut with herbaceousness so redolent of Mediterranean coasts. I am smitten frankly. These are made with such integrity and the quality flows from the wrist. They will all be available at the end of May.
Gabriella Chieffo Lattedoro display at Esxence 2018
There are always those stands one simply must visit, Maison Gabriella Chieffo, the Creatress herself as warm and welcoming as this latest release, Lattedoro, ‘Golden Milk’. Instantly I am reminded of the English saying, ‘the milk of human kindness’. Here within this weave of Woman is a heart that is raw and vulnerable, to be enveloped in sublime enfoldment of this fragrance. All this milky creaminess, coconut and spices, a clear nourishment for the Soul. I can well imagine not only the wearer but those who catch its scent in proximity also finding a tender comfort in its vapours. On skin, this fragrance exudes the comfort of the best in humanity.
Unum_Apart Sulle Nuvola Milan
There were also a few external events worthy of mention, extending the perceptions as ever, UNUM, Filippo Sorcinelli and friends taking me on journeys out beyond the arena. Beyond the pale almost, a glimpse of his new fragrance to come, an entrancing, unnerving edge to say the least. Most memorable.
-Danu Seith-Fyr, Contributor (with Contributions from Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
All photos by Danu©
Danu has samples from Atelier des Ors, Perris Montecarlo and Gabriello Chieffo show that she will ship worldwide to one registered reader. Please leave a comment with which (or all you would like to smell) from Esxence 2018. What do you think of "white light" replacing 'darker" fragrances. Draw closes 4/19/2018
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