BOOK REVIEW: The Little Book of Perfumes ” A Hundred Classics” by Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez + Draw

Instead of our Molecular Moses, Neil Sternberg or our CMO (Chief Molecular Officer) Mark Behnke reviewing  this book  which really could be subtitled (The Trouble with IFRA ), the task is mine, the former Literature and Fine Arts Major  (in fact, I had contemplated an article called Molecules for Morons).

As I mentioned recently on FaceBook  to Perfumer Maurice Roucel,  I read and re-read Chandler Burr's Emporer of Scent four times before  I finally understood  Mr. Turin's Shape vs.Vibrational theory of Smell.

It was after the fourth reading  that I began to understand a little more about Mr. Turin's reviews in the 2008  BIG White book… Perfumes from A-Z . I now  know  why he refers to Reimann's Conjecture when speaking about my friend-in- fragrance artist Nobi Shiyoa's 100% Love. Mr Turin has the equivalent of perfect pitch when it comes to smell. Sacre Nobi  commisioned Sophia Grosjman to  create a fragance for his installation when we went behind the bottle.  It is one of my favorite fragrances and when once asked him why it wasn't a commercial sucess, he replied, '100% Love smells good on people who smell good naturally'. But I digress. The Little Book of Fagrance is really Ms. Sanchez's  post scripts circa 2011. The Little Book of Perfume consolidate the  BEST OF THE BEST reviews from the  Big White book's 1800 reviews, and an addition of four vintage fragrances and a wonderful commentary on Osmotheque  in Versailles. 

I don't want to spoil what made the cut, but of note, is the radical change in the Dior formulations by Edmond Roudnitska, which have watered down his brillaint work . In addition Amouage Homage ("irrestistable'), Histoires  de Parfums 1790, all Lauder fragrances, Angel by Thierry Mugler, Parfum de Nicolai perfumer Patricia de Nicolai , the grandaughter of Pierre Guerlain still earns  rave reviews (although her New York is "damaged goods" based on the restrictions on oakmosss and citrus)   . Guerlain, Caron,and Chanel had mixed reviews.  Good news  for Fracas and Knize 10 lovers; Ms. Sanchez  writes they are even better!  Ormande Jaye Woman is still 'great" and  L'Eau de Feu issey is still discontinued. Calice Becker's Tommy Girl  and  Etat Libre de Orange Secretions Magnifique are exactly the same…magnifique. Serge Lutens is still godlike and Patou Joy is still a joy.  According to Ms. Sanchez the  current  version of Calandre outpaces  Rive Gauche; this is a reversal of fortune.

Maurice Roucel could do no wrong, (although Iris Silver Mist is no longer the "monster  Iris sacre of yore"  and Ms. Sanchez notes that "it is  far too early  to sum up his achievements."

Ms. Sanchez named  Bertrand Duchaoufour and Jean Claude Ellena the new guardians of fragrance and noted their styles were similar (Bertrand told me that nothing can be further from the truth). Also I  believe that M. Ellena is of a different generation whereas M. Duchaufour is in his prime. There is no reference  to Maurice Roucel for his work on Feminite de Bois.

There is a lovely credit to Luckyscent but a bit of a plug for the Perfume Court.  Department and specialty stores  take note.

I did hope that some of the brilliant scents created post  2008 would be included but they were not.

– Michelyn Camen,, Editor in Chief

I am giving away my advance copy of The Little Book of Perfumes to a commentor. Since you have not read it (it goes on sale October 27, 2011); you can preorder on Amazon.com. I would love to hear your thoughts on the first book or which fragrances created post 2008 you would like to see in the next book. Draw ends October 17, 2011.

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19 comments

  • Isa says:

    I don’t own the White Book but I have read much about it and I know there are mixed thoughts because of the ironic writing.
    Some days ago I knew about this new compilation of the best reviewed perfumes and it sounded really interesting. It’s much more enjoyable for me reading good reviews than bad reviews.

    I would like to see By Kilian Back to Black, Kenzo Amour Le Parfum, Ajne Nectar, Juliette has a gun Calamity J, L’Artisan Traversee du Bosphore…

  • Feliciag says:

    I am still such an appretice to scent a book would be a wonderful asset to my quest for knowledge. But i can be hands on too;)I love reading reviews but I really love the follow up when I have the review and the scent. I like to challenge myuself to see the notes and experience the layers. This one sings to me because i love Fracas and Angel. xo thanks

  • Asali says:

    Oh LOL at the introduction ” Molucules for morons!”, thanks for that and the highly entertaining review.
    What a shame that no fragrance post 2008 made it in there: I should like, amongst many others, to see MDCI Belle Helene, Grossmiths Shem el Nessim and Guerlain Tonka Imperiale in a new edition. But most of all I should like to see a pardon of Mona di Orio’s fragrances, and max stars to her new line:-)

  • Elisa says:

    The first book has a semi-permanent spot on my bedside table. I’d like to see reviews of Sensuous Noir and some of the newer Tauers.

  • thescentinel says:

    my favourite part of the first book (or at least one of): “what we’re really talking about is the art of abstraction in perfumery: the creation of a new smell for it’s own qualities, and not for any fidelity to things already known. How is it done? Magic.”
    I’d be happy with any perfume they haven’t reviewed yet, to be reviewed. The more the merrier!

  • aba says:

    I have a copy of the first book and enjoyed reading about the different fragrances. I enjoyed checking the reviews of my favorite perfumes and to see if they had high ratings. Some of them did, others did not. I was happy to find that 2 perfumes that I had recently acquired “Aria di Capri” by Carthusia and “Iris 39” by Le Labo has high ratings. Some of the not so favorable reviews sounded a bit harsh to me. After reading the book I begun to search out those perfumes with high ratings that I was learning of for the first time or which I had heard of but had not had the opportunity to try. I still refer to it every now and then. I would like to see the Amouage Library Collection, reviewed in the next edition, also Strange Invisible Perfumes’ Essence of IX (dont know if this was developed after 2008 though) In general I would be happy to see more natural perfumes reviewed.

  • harper says:

    the first book — much as i often differ with its authors opinions — lives on my bed.
    it is just so damn amusing.

    and michelyn, i, too, ADORE 100% love.
    particularly its superb use of labdnanum.
    this, and slumberhouse rume, are the best labdanum-heavy scents out there to my nose.

  • harper says:

    p.s.

    what i referenced above as “the first book” (the book of perfume. white in color.) is, of course, the second book.

    turnin’s FIRST book of perfume reviews was in french (parfums. le guide. brown in color.)
    and in it he slammed many that he later loved in the second.
    this, i feel, shows the mark of an open mind willing to sniff and re-sniff (as it were) and change his opinions.

    i respect that in a human being 🙂

  • Michelyn Camen says:

    Harper
    I read the 1992 book
    But I really didn’t understand how he could subjectively judge a fragrance until chandlers book
    Most of the fragrances featured as you know had briefs
    That is why I called out Histoires de Parfums as one if the few indies

  • Alica says:

    I didn’t read the first book but I would like to own the one with as many expert pefume’s descriptions (detail) as possible. Even those rare that cannot be found on the web. Thanks!

  • Michelyn Camen says:

    Aba
    Sip essence IX was developed 2010!
    I don’t recall a single 100 percent natural in his book
    It’s interesting how relatively few were known in 2008
    Sometimes I fear the many hundreds of natural perfumers run the risk of some of the niche fragrances I loved but disappeared due to lack of funding or marketing

  • Michelyn Camen says:

    Asali thank you for noticing I actually reviewed the book unlike many other sites that offered a free book and reprinted the publisher’s press release
    Having had the privilege of meeting or interviewing some of the perfumers I had some insight into their creative process But agree or disagree the authors smelled all on blotters and not on skin
    I once asked Bertrand Duchaufour what makes a great fragrance
    He answered. One you love

  • carol says:

    Like Harper, I have the white book by my bed to read interesting and amusing snippets before bed. I continue to enjoy the book immensely. No need to enter me in the draw, as I placed a pre-order some time ago, although I can not remember the impetus. Thanks to you, I will be less surprised when the package arrives in a few weeks 🙂

  • CMH says:

    I don’t really know what version of the book I own as it was one of the very first apple books I purchased. But i love browsing through it and comparing my favorites and either laughing or wincing. Having an updated copy would be fantastic and I hope it’s available in kindle format. I’d love to hear about some of the new chanel flankers as well as the l’Artisan (TdB and NdT) and, of course, white Gardenia Petals!

  • sandi L says:

    I guess I need to do some reading. Must say i haven’t read the first book, but will this one. I have fallen in love with a perfume that I first learned about on Cafleurebon. In Fiore Fumee D’ Ambre. Natural Perfumers do run a risk of disappearing due to funding and lack of support:( Loved Bertrand Duchaufour remark “One you Love”

  • Zazie says:

    I own both the guide and the A-Z guide. I love the authors.
    I can’t wait for this new different and interesting take on the perfume subject!

  • Christine says:

    I am fascinated by Luca Turin and had the pleasure of meeting him in 2004 at the World Perfumery Congress in Cannes. At that time I asked him to please please translate his book Parfums, Le guide into English. I am sure I was not the only one and was excited that he and Ms. Sanchez finally did. It is vastly entertaining, humorous as well as articulate, even poignant at times. I am really looking forward to the “Little Book.”