Behind the Bottle with DelRae Roth

We all know the usual method in which perfumes are categorized, but what if instead of labelling them as florals or gourmands, we tried to describe them by personality?  Naming notes or assigning fragrance families gives you an idea of what to expect, but sometimes a scent makes such a strong first impression, it comes across as a character.  Such is the case with Parfums DelRae’s newest work, Wit.

 Perfumer Yann Vasnier of Givaudan

Released in March 2014, Wit is the fourth collaboration between DelRae Roth and Yann Vasnier, Givaudan’s senior perfumer and the creator of a number of acclaimed and Award winning fragrances for some of our favorite mainstream and Celebrity Brands(Adam Levine), Designer (Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford) and Niche Perfume Houses. DelRae works very closely with Yann and Wit follows Mythique (2009) Coup de Foudre (2010) Panache  (2010) and is a wonderful example of their successful partnership.  We love a Creative Director who takes her time and any release from Parfums DelRae, gets our attention. Before we get to our review, Ms. Roth graciously answered a few questions and Yann Vasnier offers some insights as we go Behind the Bottle.

Michelyn Camen: DelRae, why the name Wit?

DelRae Roth:  The names for the perfumes are very important to me.  I always want the name to be descriptive of the personality of the perfume.  In this case, Wit is fitting because the perfume has an optimistic, engaging feeling and focusing on Daphne is totally unique and so wonderful.  I read something recently that said, “A beautiful woman is a pleasure, but a witty woman is a power.”  Wit and intelligence are very seductive.

 I remember you mentioning that you had a perfume in the works when we were corresponding late in 2012, the same year you wrote your CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery. How long did you and Yann work on this?

DR:  I first proposed the idea to Yann two or so years ago.  We work very deliberately and carefully, allowing the necessary time for the “mods” to mature so we can really evaluate them.  It is important for both of us, a luxury for Yann I think, given the way most companies work these days.

You usually bring a French aesthetic to your perfumes.  How was that expressed here?

DR:  Yes, it’s true, a French aesthetic is always part of the mix.  In the case of Wit, I can imagine walking in the Jardin de Luxembourg in springtime and feeling the energy and scent of the garden and the spirit of the people passing through. On a more technical note, all of the perfumes are constructed in the very classic French way, adhering to maturation and maceration time constraints that are not employed by many companies these days.  It’s why my perfumes have so much integrity and beauty.

Daphne Cneorum: Pierre-Joseph Redoute

 A few fragrances use Daphne in their compositions, but Wit is the first fragrance to showcase this small intensely scented flower that grows on shrubs and blooms in late winter and early spring. What is also interesting about Wit is that Yann utilizes a proprietary technology from Givaudan that allows scents of plants and flowers to be captured in their natural habitat, where climactic and ecological conditions contribute to their unique olfactive impression.

According to Yann Vasnier, "DelRae reminded me how special its smell is in the air,bringing vivid memories of visiting parks and art fairs with my brother David, botanist and landscape architect. While really distinct, the daphne smell in the air is a really fine balance of fresh, lemony, green, and soft notes, also slightly spicy with rosy notes, jasmine notes, indol, salicylates and vanillic notes. After smelling a few different scent treks from Dr Roman Kaiser, the Daphne Cneorum, a species a little more pink, won our heart for its bright shiny freshness and youthfulness, a perfect rendition of the feeling of it cute petals and a perfect fit for Wit!"

Painting by Isaac Maimon Cafe La Parisienne

Wit opens with a dazzling citrus burst of Meyer lemon and green mandarin, tinged with a bit of angelica to add sparkle.  This cheerful, vivacious fresh floral rises like dawn brightening up a dark sky.With daphne as its heart,  Wit perfectly represents the transitional  period of early spring when bright cold mornings segue into more temperate, longer days.  A supporting cast of jasmine, narcissus, mimosa, and ylang ylang brings to mind crisp blossoms perched on the edge of a sweet cocktail at a chic brunch.

Isaac Maimon Cafe La Parisienne

 In the base notes, amber, Madagascar vanilla and velvet musk ground the florals and prevent them from becoming frivolous; the cocktail brings color to our cheeks and soon, the days will grow warmer and brunch will be moved out onto the patio. Like a clever conversation that starts out whimsically but gets deep as the day goes on, it is well suited for a convivial social occasion.  In such a setting, Wit is the fascinating new acquaintance whom you click with instantly and just know you’re going to be lifelong friends.

Notes: Meyer Lemon ScentTrek®, Green Mandarin, Angelica, Laurel Nobile, Daphne Cneorum ScentTrek® , Jasmine Alcoolat, Narcissus, Mimosa, Ylang Ylang, Amber Crystals, Vanilla Resinoid Madagascar, Velvet Musk

Thanks to the generosity of DelRae Roth, we have five generous samples of Wit to go out to five U.S. readers via random draw.  To enter, please comment mentioning your favorite fragrance from Parfums DelRae and why you would love to win Wit. Extra credit for what you enjoyed learning from DelRae Roth and Yann Vasnier.   Draw ends April 14, 2014

–Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief and Nancy Knows, Sr. Contributor and editor of the fragrance blog Make Perfume Not War

Art Direction: MichelynCamen

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