The Alhambra in Granada, Spain © Willian Justen de Vasconcellos
It’s rare when the announcement of a line’s US launch stops me dead in my tracks and has my heart racing in anticipation of smelling the fragrances for the first time. Ricardo Ramos Perfumes de Autor did just that to me a few weeks ago. The perfumes are inspired by the history of Spain’s Andalusia region and are created by South Americans living in Granada and Istanbul. That ticks off four boxes on my “Favorite Things” list all at once!
Ricardo Ramos, the creative director of the line that bears his name, is a Colombian with Spanish ancestry. He felt a strong call to create a line of fragrances that celebrates his Spanish heritage, especially that of southern Spain (Ramos now lives in Granada.) The area known as Andalusia still resonates with the Islamic culture that dominated Spain for nearly 800 years in the Middle Ages. This conversation between the Arab culture of al-Andalus and the European culture of the western Mediterranean provides ample fodder for creativity when it comes to perfumery. Ricardo Ramos and perfumer Jorge Lee have created a line of fragrances that have taken inspiration from historical figures, music, religious celebrations and culinary traditions.
Ricardo Ramos and Jorge Lee show off their creations at Twisted Lily, Brooklyn. Courtesy Ricardo Ramos
Ricardo Ramos Perfumes is a fragrance line twenty-five years in the making, beginning with the start of a friendship between young Ricardo Ramos who had just finished his fashion studies and recent graduate Jorge Lee who had started a career in perfume, but on the business side. Ricardo encouraged Jorge to embrace his creativity and pushed for him to study to become a perfumer. Ricardo’s dream was that eventually Jorge could create the fragrances for Ricardo’s fashion house. Back in Europe while designing collections Ricardo also studied perfumery so he could be a knowledgable and hands-on creative director. Jorge Lee indeed did become a successful perfumer. Many of you will know Jorge’s creations, such as many for the Turkish house Nishane like Afrika Oliphant, Hacivat, Tuberoza, and Wulong Cha. I would be happy to write about any of the perfumes in the line; I’m going to follow a CaFleureBon tradition of suggesting “The Three You Should Be Wearing”: Ricardo Ramos Perfumes LaAurora, Morayam and Al Misk. These three are all very different and equally captivating.
"Departure of the family of Boabdil from the Alhambra”, by Manuel Gómez-Moreno González, 1880
Ricardo Ramos Perfumes Morayma tells the story of a woman named Morayma, the last Sultana of Granada. She was a beautiful and devout woman who was the wife of Sutlan Muhammad XII, known to the Spaniards as Boabdil, who surrendered the keys of Granada over to Ferdinand and Isabel in 1492, ending nearly eight centuries of Islamic rule. Ricardo Ramos Perfumes Morayma knew great beauty and great sorrow in her life. She lived in the Alhambra palace and everyday moved through its fragrant gardens. However the sorrow of having her children taken from her as hostages, expulsion from her home, and an early death soon after gives a depth to her story. Morayma the perfume is decidedly feminine. It opens as a bright, sweet, fruity white floral that conjures all the lusciousness of the gardens of the Alhambra. However as I wear it a beautifully melancholy skin scent emerges. It feels very soft and quiet, like one peacefully surrendering to her fate. Notes: Green Guava, Coriander seed, Grapefruit, Fig Leaf, Gardenia, Magnolia, Narcissus, Chamomile, Jasmine, Hay, Musk, Orris Root.
Statue of La Virgen de la Aurora, Reina y Madre de Albayzín © Maza Santaella
Ricardo Ramos Perfumes LaAurora is the most interesting of the three. It is a perfume built around incense, but isn’t heavily churchy. There’s a lightness to it. The name LaAurora refers to the “Virgin of the Dawn, Queen and Mother of Albaycín”, a statue of the Virgin Mary that is venerated in Grenada. Throughout the year the faithful carry the statue in night-time processions, perfumed with incense and flowers. Perfumer Jorge Lee explained to me that this perfume is meant to evoke the early morning after the procession has passed. The incense still lingers but the air is cool and fresh. Ricardo Ramos Perfumes LaAurora opens with a beautiful light touch of frankincense that allows the fresh bergamot and cardamom to shine through giving the sense of dawn. The incense progresses into a floral stage with a spicy carnation and rose. The dry down is magnificent with dry, woody musk notes lingering as the incense trails off. Notes: Bergamot, Cardamom, Violet, Atlas Cedar, Turkish Rose Absolute, Carnation, Olibanum, Gurjun Balsam, Kashmiri Musk
Medieval manuscript describing distillation process in an alembic, an Arab invention © Collection British Library
Speaking of musk, the third Ricardo Ramos Perfumes perfume I recommend you try right away is Al Misk, the Arabic name for musk. It is meant as an interpretation of the Tibetan Musk that was a popular scent during the days of the caliphate of al-Andalus. The opening of this perfume is surprisingly sweet and lively. The dry down comes on slowly and before you know it you are in a trance of smooth, balsamic musk. This perfume is a true thing of beauty and I’ve been told it is what Jorge Lee wears himself. Notes: Bergamot, Absinthe, Copaiba Balm, Magnolia, Mace, Black Pepper, Musk, Gurjan Balsam, Guaiac Wood
Ricardo Ramos Perfumes collection at Twisted Lily, Brooklyn. Courtesy Twisted Lily
There are many other perfumes in the Ricardo Ramos Perfumes line that I suggest you try. There’s the woody chypre Ziryab, the fresh green Sacromonte, LaLindosa that pays tribute to the tropical fruits, flowers, and woods of the South American home of Ramos and Lee, and the house’s latest release, Matcha Nono, created with perfumer Tomoo Inaba which is an olfactory mash-up of Japan, Istanbul and Granada.
Welcome to America, Ricardo Ramos Perfumes. We’ve been waiting for you!
Jorge Lee and Ricardo Ramos stroll through Manhattan with their Ricardo Ramos Perfumes Morayma stealing the spotlight. © Camilo Morales
Disclaimer: samples generously provided by Ricardo Ramos and Twisted Lily; my opinions are my own.
– Marianne Butler, Senior Contributor
Ricardo Ramos Perfumes is sold exclusively as of this writing in the USA at Twisted Lily.
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Thanks to the generosity of both Ricardo Ramos Perfumes and Twisted Lily we have generous samples of Ricardo Ramos Perfumes LaAurora, Morayma, and Al Misk for a registered reader in the CON USA or The EU ONLY. You must be registered or your comment will not count.
Please leave a comment with what appealed to you about Marianne’s reviews of Ricardo Ramos Perfumes LaAurora, Ricardo Ramos Morayma, Ricardo Ramos Al Misk, where you live and which of the three appeal to you. Draw closes 2/17/2019
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