Marilyn Monroe by Andy Warhol
I have to think every time a flanker of a well-respected and loved fragrance is produced there has to be some consternation on how it will be received. Certainly there are examples where the only similarity between flanker and original is the name. It is actually much harder to create a flanker sufficiently different and still remind the wearer that it has a kinship to the original. Too often the perfume team just shoehorns in specific notes like citrus and calls it “Summer Edition” or loads it up with patchouli and vetiver and calls it “Noir” or adds a marine accord and calls it “Blue” or “Sport”. It is for this reason that flankers have a bad reputation because of the lack of thought given to the great majority of the ones produced. It is also why I always look sideways when a new one shows up for me to test.
When I received my sample of Molinard Habanita L’Esprit my sidelong glance also included a sigh. I am pleased with the version of the original Habanita in its 1988 re-formulated form as it is extremely well done. Last year Molinard released a version called Habanita EdP and my overwhelming response was “Why?” The Habanita EdP was, I think, meant to be a compromise for people who found Habanita too strong. In removing that strength they also removed the spine of what makes Habanita so original. This was why I sighed as I looked at the sample of Habanita L’Esprit I wasn’t sure what to expect. It was labeled as an oriental with flowers and so it was reasonable to expect a lighter brighter version of Habanita. My question before sniffing it was “Do I want that?” Based on my experience with Habanita L’Esprit the answer is yes. For this flanker the creative team did everything right. They used a completely new citrus and spice opening. They reduced the floral quota in the heart and they absolutely nailed the Habanita base. This all added up to a Habanita which was easy to wear in the warm weather.
Habanita L’Esprit opens with a bright lemon matched with mimosa all of which are dusted with nutmeg. The beginning is a zesty introduction which keeps from being overwhelming. The heart plucks three blooms form the bouquet of the original as rose, jasmine, and heliotrope are combined to remind one of Habanita. What is nice is the development is so smooth I wasn’t left looking for the rest of the heavy-hitter florals to show up. The reason I don’t miss them is the base is all Habanita as vetiver, musk, amber, and benzoin create that indelible Habanita base. Just as in the heart the base notes are not taken deeper by other notes and so they are allowed to really stand out on their own. This makes Habanita L’Esprit true to its heritage without slavishly imitating it.
Habanita L’Esprit had all day longevity and average sillage.
By the time I wore Habanita L’Esprit for the third time all of my apprehension had been put aside and I looked forward to enjoying a version of Habanita that allowed me to enjoy much of what I enjoy about Habanita while the summer was still going strong. Bravo to the creative team for creating something new which still feels like something old while still being modern.
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample of Habanita L’Esprit provided by Fragrance & Art.
Thanks to Fragrance & Art we have three samples of Habanita L’Esprit to giveaway. This is an international draw. To be eligible leave a comment naming your favorite flanker. The draw will end on August 31, 2013.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor