Zoologist Sacred Scarab Courtesy Zoologist Perfumes
“…as my eyes grew accustomed to the light, details of the room within emerged slowly from the mist, strange animals, statues, and gold – everywhere the glint of gold. I was struck dumb with amazement, and when Lord Carnarvon inquired anxiously, ‘Can you see anything?’ it was all I could do to get out the words, ‘Yes, wonderful things.’” ― Howard Carter, The Tomb of Tutankhamen
Sultan Pasha courtesy of the perfumer
With a dusty shaft of light intensified by the gleam of gold effulgence, Zoologist Perfumes has revealed their latest release, Sacred Scarab, a modern interpretation of the ancient. Sacred Scarab marks Victor Wong’s (Creative Director of Zoologist) first collaboration with Sultan Pasha, best known for his lavish and complex attars, among which is Chypre Chrysantheme, noted as one of CaFleureBon Best Perfumes of 2020.
One might think the sacred scarab, also known as the dung beetle, to be an unusual inspiration for a perfume; to Sultan Pasha, it’s clearly an opportunity to explore the insect’s lore and surroundings, with attention to the contrasts of light and dark, modern and ancient, actual and metaphorical. The result is a sumptuous golden elixir, a wearable modern relic Zoologist Sacred Scarab is one of the brand’s best releases to date.
“The Obsequies of an Egyptian Cat” by John Reinhard Weguelin, 1886
Before we reach the tomb, Dr. Jones, there’s much to explore and many treasures to unearth along the path. Zoologist Sacred Scarab opens with a synesthete’s palette of blues and purples as a glorious blue lotus accord interplays with an emerging plum, highlighted by shimmering aldehydes and sparkling lemon. The blue lotus and plum (with vestiges of vintage Dior Poison) are along for most of the journey, even as the shimmer subsides and the plum evolves to a nectarous plum-wine. The lemon as well takes us to the heart of the composition, revealing itself to be the lemony facets of incense, in this case, an understructure created to honor an ancient Egyptian incense called kyphi. According to Sultan Pasha, as revealed in an interview on the Zoologist website, “For this most auspicious project, I did a lot of research into the various kyphi formulas through the ages, but focused primarily on those recorded by the ancient Egyptians. I read various literary sources about this mystical substance and also attended seminars given by the renowned Egyptologist, Dora Goldsmith.” Sultan Pasha’s complex kyphi base includes notes of raisins, olibanum, myrrh, galbanum, cedar wood, juniper, wine, styrax, benzoin, oakmoss, labdanum, synthetic musk and amber. Thankfully, in lieu of what a dung beetle instinctually rolls, Sultan Pasha imagined the sacred scarab rolling balls of kyphi.
Zoologist Sacred Scarab Courtesy of the brand
As the sweet and round heart of the perfume evolves to the basenotes, the hues of purple and blue turn to gold—at times dusty, at times polished. Myrrh and benzoin extend the perfume’s restrained sweetness, counterbalanced by a slight bitterness from the galbanum. The composition becomes decidedly darker as it wears on and yet—despite the inspiration—there is nothing unsettling, nothing to fear. The animalic notes, which include a synthetic civet used in the top, add a dimensional aliveness that purrs rather than growls.
In lesser hands, Zoologist Sacred Scarab could have been merely a high-concept art piece that one might respect, but never wear. In this case, Sultan Pasha has composed an opulent, elegant, wearable extrait de parfum which also happens to be a work of art. The journey is the treasure and I highly recommend you take this journey.
Zoologist Sacred Scarab is an extrait de parfum at 20% concentration with excellent longevity and projection. Samples are available now on the Zoologist website and full bottles will be available starting next month (July 2022). You can explore more of Sultan Pasha’s work, including his renowned attars, on his website Sultan Pasha Attars.
Top Notes: Aldehydes, Lemon, Synthetic Civet
Heart Notes: Wine Accord, Plum Accord, Blue Lotus Accord
Kyphi Notes: Raisins, Olibanum, Myrrh, Galbanum, Cedar, Juniper, Wine, Styrax, Benzoin, Oakmoss, Labdanum, Synthetic Musk, Amber
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample vial purchased by the author.
Michael Devine, Contributor
Do you have a favorite Zoologist perfume or a favorite Sultan Pasha attar
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