Rumeur de Lanvin was composed by André Fraysse

One comes across myriad aromatic mysteries, and one of these dear to my heart is the original 1934 Rumeur de Lanvin, composed by André Fraysse – who created perfumes for the House of Lanvin. Monsieur Fraysse was the nose for incomparable elegance: Arpège, Eau de Lanvin, Géranium D’Espagne, Pretexte, Rumeur, and Scandal.

 

Ida’s collection

When I searched for all the Lanvins here which haven’t yet been explored, it looks as if I have some catching up to do – much as I have done previously with the Balmains. I promise to rectify that omission (I was fortunate many years ago to have acquired many of the older Lanvins – and I’ve stored them all with great care). Rumeur de Lanvin was discontinued in 1971 (the year that I discovered it), attempted relaunch in 1979, and then discontinued that iteration in 1982.The 2006 release bears no resemblance to the original fragrance.

Greta Garbo IMDB

Why do I place vintage Rumeur de Lanvin amongst the under-sung greats of haute parfumerie? My reasons are legion: it is a complex perfume of intense sophistication and innuendo, one that fêted an era when folk needn’t fear giving offense, or bearing a distinctive scent worthy of being known as a signature. By any standard, Rumeur is a fiercely independent fragrance possessed of regal presence and myriad aromatic entanglements, which some might find somewhat intimidating – and it is certainly not ‘safe’. In this sense, I liken it to the rarest opal: it is best worn by a person who knows themselves well.

Vintage ad apped

Much as I adore the original Madame Zed’s My Sin (Mon Péché, 1924), I find Rumeur to feel a bit more sinful, possibly because the decadence of exquisitely spiced florals is wed to juice-dripping fruits on the verge of divine decay. Its decidedly leathery bent (Cuir de Russie accord) and true tobacco note (not simply a trompe-nez constructed of vetiver and vanilla) are brilliant accompaniments to Rumeur’s overripeness. It may come across as less overtly floral in comparison to My Sin, but there’s no reason why you can’t love them both. One can’t have too much mystery in one’s life, no?

Greta Garbo in  Inspiration 1932 via pixels

If I had to employ only one word to describe Rumeur de Lanvin, it would be opulence. Monsieur Fraysse spared no expense when it came to his materials – and in the 1920s and 30s, such quality was expected. While I have read that there are experts who tend to liken Rumeur to Femme and Mitsouko, I beg to differ: just because fragrances may share plum and peach notes (i.e., Prunol) or the famous bases of yore does not necessarily cause them to smell alike. Yes: each is fruity, spicy, and a chypre – so if you are fond of this particular genre of fragrance, it’s likely that you will adore Rumeur. De Lanvin. There is an undeniable family resemblance to be noted, but there the similarity ends, especially in the parfum. Rumeur is wonderfully redolent of leather and tobacco – and as with other perfumes of its time, it sends you down the primrose path of discovery while it unravels, layer by layer. I would like to note that although Rumeur was ostensibly created for women, it is spectacular on a man’s skin.

Original notes: bergamot, peach, plum, nutmeg, cardamom, clove, carnation, ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, patchouli, oakmoss, vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver, civet, tobacco, Cuir de Russie accord (Synarome), costus (Perceived note: aldehydes)

Review based upon my own collection. My nose is my own.

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

 Eau de Rumeur circa 1960-70 from Ida’s collection

Vintage Rumeur de Lanvin is a fragrant unicorn: rare, often costly if you do locate it, and not always found in decent condition if you do. I am offering a decant from my collection (presumed to be from 1971) of Rumeur eau de toilette to one registered reader in the US. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what appealed to you about Ida’s review and where you live in the USA. Draw ends 1/4/2024.

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