Vintage Perfume Review: Evyan Most Precious Parfum (1951) and Eau De Cologne (1958) + A Hidden Love Story  

Photo: Horst P Horst (late 1940s)

I am a huge fan of a good romance. I am most certainly a “new romantic” at heart.  So, when I discover a nice story about such things, I immediately start digging for more information. While there are many perfume built around the concept of love, romance, and family, there are few that stand out more than others (think of the Houses and perfumes of Caron and Guerlain, Estee Lauder, and most recently Blocki Parfums and Le Jardin Retrouve,(my reviews here). However, amongst them all, the house of Evyan quietly hides its love story.

Evyan Most Precious Parfum vintage ad (source Evyan)

The house of Evyan was founded in New York in the late 1930’s by chemist Baron Walter Langer von Langendorff as an American answer to the French perfume industry. The name of the company was actually a contraction of the love of his life, his wife Evelyn Diane. 

Evyan Most Precious, Golden Shoulders and White Shoulders 1957 Ad (source: Evyan)

He wanted his perfumes to be a celebration of his love for her as well as the art of perfumery. Evyan went on to produce dozens of perfumes over the years, but all were eclipsed by his first creation, the interminably lovely White Shoulders (released 1945).One of those lost perfumes was Most Precious (c1947-1951); which, in my humble opinion, ranks right up there in greatness to White Shoulders. In certain respects it contains some of the DNA of White Shoulders, but stands as almost a sister fragrance of sorts. 

Suzy Parker, 1952 Photo Horst P. Horst

The fragrance opens up with a bouquet of white flowers that immediately grabs your attention as being heady, lush, and verging on one of the best presentations of gardenia that this nose has ever come across.  It is absolutely stunning in its majestic appearance accompanied by oh so sweet muguet and stately jasmine on a bed anise and tarragon that mixes so eloquently amongst the white cloud of flowers as to only lend a bit of fresh cut licorice/herbal leafiness to the composition. 

Carmen Dell'Orefice by Horst P. Horst 1940s

As the mid notes start to develop,  more floral aspects begin to emerge; a powdery purple heliotrope is entranced in the spell of golden ylang ylang. Orange blossom weaves its magic now and again and acts to extenuate the more indolic roll of jasmine and gardenia. This perfume is not heavily indolic (it does not cross that line into my beloved sexy naughtiness) but it is, nonetheless, alluring and quite refined.  

Horst P. Horst. Vogue, 1959.

Most Precious Parfum links the fragrant decades of the 1930s-40’s into the 50’s quite well. As mentioned earlier, one can discern elements of White Shoulders, but in a tamed fashion– like the little sister of a fully grown woman. It’s a mirror of the 50s' ideal  'good girl' (or what she was supposed to be).

The Body Equation Photo Horst P. Horst Model: Carol Alt US Vogue November 1983

Moving into the base, the fragrance keeps its floral tones while slowly fading away into a very light skin scent.  Gentle wafts of the final vestiges of florals are mingled with slightly vanilliac tones of tonka bean What I think is of particular note, is overall Evyan Most Precious seems very contemporary as it seems like a precursor to body mists/sprays popular to the masses today. It starts out strong (very strong) and fades out slowly but surely into a very personal fragrance. The quality speaks for itself.

Notes: tarragon, heliotrope, anise oil, lemon, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, jasmine, orange flower, gardenia, rose, tonka, coumarin

Disclaimer:  Opinions are my own based on product from my personal collection and decant kindly provided by The Perfumed Court.

–Aaron Potterman, Contributor and Vintage Perfume Expert.

Art: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief: All photography by Horst P. Horst the iconic American fashion photographer, known for his work with Vogue (unless otherwise specified)

Evyan Most Precious Parfum (Aaron's Bottle)

Thanks to The Perfumed Court we have 2.5 ml glass sprayer of vintage Evyan Most Precious EDC,  which is very rare and hard to find for a registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, you must be a registered reader and sign up for The Perfumed Court Newsletter . Do you like skin scents, where do you live, and what you think of Aaron’s review. Draw closes 2/7/2017

We announce the winner on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS Feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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18 comments

  • Aaron Luke says:

    This fragrancd sounds amazing! I’m super intrigued by the tonka bean and jasmin combo!!! NYC over here 🙂

  • ntabassum92 says:

    I do like skin scents, especially for when I’m just attending school or work. It always causes me embarrassment when people can smell me as soon as I walk into a room – I prefer my scent to be a little closer, so that they can smell me when they hug me. I’m in VA, USA, and I love this review! I had not heard of the other Evyan fragrances, and I LOVE White Shoulders – getting the chance to smell “the little sister” of White Shoulders sounds so dreamy!

  • Steve A says:

    Yes I oftentimes like skin scents and colognes work well for that. Very interesting (and romantic) reading about how the name Evyan came about. USA

  • Gail says:

    DNEM as I already have a couple of small bottles of vintage Most Precious and some beautiful empties too. I just wanted to say how much I enjoy Aaron’s reviews of vintage fragrances. He really knows his stuff! I’m going to wear Most Precious today. Thank you, Aaron, for reminding me about this beauty.

  • Su says:

    I love when love is reflected in any form of art, perfume being more intimate than others.
    I work in a closed space with close encounters with people, so I can only wear skin scents, so that I don’t make anyone uncomfortable.This vintage sounds amazing and would love to try it.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    The description of White Shoulder & her sister is wonderful. I do love skin scents & sometimes I use as aftershave. Aaron and Gail you both are lucky that you have such precious gems in your collection. Sounds amazing and would love to have it if I win. Thanks for the draw. Already registered as “Aafridi” on site The Perfumed Court.
    Peshawar, Pakistan

  • Timea says:

    I like skin scents and this fragrance sounds very lovely from the review. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • Waller says:

    I had never heard of most precious Parfum so thank you for this review
    I am very interested in vintage fragrances and white shoulders is one of my favorites
    The background Aaron gave into Evyan was really informative
    I subscribe to perfume court
    USA

  • Ellen M says:

    Aaron’s review reminds me that there are many vintage perfumes out there about which I know very little. Skin scents are great in situations where the wearing of scent needs to be very quiet. I subscribe to The Perfumed Court and live in the USA. Thanks for the draw.

  • Hootlia says:

    I tend to go for skin scents most of the time. It’s like carrying a secret with me for my own pleasure (and those that get very, very close to me). I’d never heard about Evyan before reading this. Looks like I have another house to add to my try-out list! I’m already a subscriber to The Perfumed Court. How else would I be able to try all these fabulous vintage perfumes? I live in Canada, thanks.

  • Filip__ says:

    I like vintage fragrances and this one sounds great. I don’t know many skin scents and I am very curious about Most Precious. I live in the EU, thanks!

  • hofken says:

    I enjoyed Aaron’s review and Most Precious sounds lovely. I wonder if it’s a fragrance my mom or grandmother wore. I live in the US and know very little about the term “skin scent” so a google search is in order.

  • Greg Sh says:

    I’m a big fan of skin scents. Sometimes it’s so to be discreet. This scent sounds great! I’m in Canada

  • Melissa Childress says:

    My good friend bought Most Precious for me for Christmas every year from the time I was about 16. I loved it! I haven’t been able to find it for years.

  • Janet Johnston says:

    I LOVE the Most Precious Perfume/colone. My parents bought me a bottle when I was about 15 yrs old. I originally wanted White Shoulders but my parents thought MP would be a softer scent for my age while being similar to WS. I absolutely loved it and it became my signature scent for several years. I am now 64 yrs old and would love to have Most Precious again. I know the scent will bring back some of the most memorable times of my youth. I even had a boyfriend who would sleep with my pillow so it would have my scent on it. (Silly I know but remember we were young!) Lol. I am going to try to get hold of a brand new, unopened, sealed bottle. I believe the colone is what I used. I sure wish this had never been discontinued!

  • Laura Brighton says:

    What a treasure to have come across your review of one of my enduring perfume favorites: White Shoulders. I discovered it on my grandmother’s dresser 67 years ago. And of all the many types I’ve used over the years this still has people asking,”what perfume are you wearing”? Sadly it is very hard to find it with the original formula still intact, which hasn’t been diluted or compromised.It was wonderful reading about it’s creation !

  • Marion M says:

    It is certainly a shame we have lost Most Previous forever. It was the most beautiful and personal fragrance I’ve ever worn. Everyone asked what it was. I bought it for close friends and they loved it too. It honestly didn’t smell like anything else on earth. It was an absolutely delicious fragrance. Our loss. I wish one of the major perfumers would replicate it.