Vintage Perfume Review: Christian Dior Dolce Vita (Pierre Bourdon) 1995 “90s Noir”

 

vintage Christian Dior Dolce Vita perfume review

Bottles of vintage  Christian Dior Dolce Vita, photo by Nicoleta

 “The Greek word for “return” is “nostos”. “Algos” means “suffering.” So nostalgia is the suffering caused by an appeased yearning to return.” – Milan Kundera, Ignorance

Grunge, brown lipstick, Seinfeld, plaid shirts, talk shows, Beastie Boys’ “Sabotage” opening riffs, Pulp Fiction, Norton Commander bright blue screens, flowery dresses paired with knee-high laced boots, Trainspotting, Rothmans king-size aftertaste, minimalism, Kate Moss’s ribs, velvet scrunchies and a weirdly distinct and vivid memory of R.E.M.’s “E-Bow The Letter” lyrics written at the end of my Advanced Physics textbook, in blue ink.

At the end of the ’90s, zoom in to Eastern Europe, where a reclusive teenage girl was looking for various forms of escapism. My analytical and logical side found the answer in the clear cause-and-effect universe of the video games of the decade (Sid Meier’s Civilization, I still love you!) but well hidden behind the tomboy looks and cynical metalhead poses, there was also the “girly diva” side of me, silently plotting her revengeful escape to the surface. And oh, boy, did she escape!

It was also the era of “prehistoric Netflix”, the prolific video rental shops. My guilty pleasure was to sink into the world of crimes, plaid dressed silent detectives, black and white cigarette smoke and femmes fatales, waiting for me on VHS tapes, in the usually overlooked film noir genre.

Lost Highway movie poster, 1997, David Lynch

Lost Highway movie poster, 1997, David Lynch

One day, after finishing browsing through the “old Hollywood” section, my eyes fell on the VHS cover of  Lost Highway, under  the “Just in” sign. Murder mystery, film noir, David Lynch, horror, Angelo Badalamenti, Bowie, Rammstein, and Nine Inch Nails! I could almost burst into singing, channeling my inner Julie Andrews: “These are a few of my favorite things!” Lost Highway is a complicated, Lynchian dreamlike puzzle, woven into a riddle, wrapped into a serpent-eating-its-tail-Moebius-strip-narrative of a movie. If you have a taste for the new noir, enjoy the blurry lines between the macabre and the mundane and don’t mind circular endings, I strongly recommend this one.

90s perfumes

Patricia Arquette as Renee Madison and Alice Wakefield

I became completely fascinated with the two characters Patricia Arquette brought to life – the dark, sultry and poised Renee Madison and the blonde, solar bombshell Alice Wakefield. What else can an impressionable teenage girl do but dye her natural (almost) blonde hair blue-black (“Black, black, black number one”, sings the Type O Negative voice in my head), start wearing tailored dresses and buy a new perfume to celebrate her transformation into a gothic new-noir Morticia, a teenage phase I’m afraid I still haven’t outgrown.

Vintage Christian Dior Dolce Vita perfume ad

Christian Dior Dolce Vita ad

The “new skin – new me” perfume of this newly emerged character was Christian Dior Dolce Vita. And that was bottle number one.

23 years later, I counted the empty bottles of Christian Dior Dolce Vita I still have: seven. This perfume is like a red thread that links, over many years, frozen photographic frames of my life. Scent has this unique property of giving flesh to memories (through shortcuts made by our reptilian brain) in an automatic, unfiltered and, sometimes, brutal way. However, Christian Dior Dolce Vita is, for me, by virtue of the crushing volume of memories it unearths, unique. At certain high doses, nostalgia can be toxic. Therefore, I find it quite hard to wear it without feeling the “static noise” of so many ghosts of my former selves, unraveling in a never-ending succession that mirrors a Matryoshka doll.

vintage Christian Dior Dolce Vita review 1995

Bottles of vintage Christina Dior Dolce Vita, photo by Nicoleta

 

Created in 1995 by Pierre Bourdon (with Maurice Roger), Christian Dior Dolce Vita is a knot of contrasts: mouthwatering, but not quite gourmand; the essence of sheer femininity, but still somehow strangely woody, dry, and perfectly unisex; ravishingly sensual, yet as comforting as a boring afternoon nap in your favorite pajamas; youthful pulsations of fresh blood in the opening notes, drying down into a timeless, autumnal, ripe maturity. The effervescent top notes feel like inhaling peachy colored champagne, sizzling with apricot sparkles. It makes you tipsy and ready to fall prey to the lioness with sandalwood breath and soft vanilla paws lurking in the distance. Dazzled and subdued by her luxurious cashmere embrace, you sense her tamed cinnamon claws playfully caressing you, before leaving you marked by the lingering “bite” of the dry cedarwood.

Notes: Rose, Magnolia, Lily of the valley, Apricot, Peach, Cinnamon, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Heliotrope, Cedar

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Nicoleta Tomesa, Contributor and author of lilithevea

 

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14 comments

  • Gimme etymology and I’m giddy. Gimme cool powerhouses (and I mean the women, here, not only DV) and I’m sold. Well done.

  • Uhhh! If you ever rushed somewhere, on a cold, early morning, when “life” begins and on your way to your destination you passed many,many other people with a slower pace, but, at times, one of them suddenly picks up the pace to match yours in the sense that the stranger trusts your pace to be the right one, going in that direction. For a few brief moments you can hear the soles of your shoes hitting the crisp concrete and the steam plunging from your nostrils, on the same beat and surprises you in a pleasant way, as if you were invited to dance. Well, in a similar (less creepy)
    and more comfortable and warm way, your article made me feel.
    In the words of Grace Jones ” keep it up, keep it up/ never stop the action!” <3

  • Love this article ❤️ 90s Noir
    Nicoleta Tomesa, beautifully described nostalgic feelings I can relate, growing up in USSR, Moscow, being also fascinated with David Lynch movies and actress Patricia Arquelle, reading Umberto Eco, and love to wear special for me fragrances like Lancom “Maggie Noir” and CD “Dolce Vita”! ❣️
    Thank you for reminding me about my magical time and scents I love for ever!
    Nostalgic, Yes, but ,very happy, precious and exciting time of our life ❣️

  • I was a very poor student back then and I have a friend who’s husband gifted her with dolce vita , so for me it’s the smell of richness and wellbeing. I was and I’m fascinated by, but cannot wear properly neither nowadays. Can’t wait for the next article, Nicoleta.

  • Thank you, Nicoleta! Believe it or not, I smelled Dolce Vita for the first time just a few weeks ago. To me it’s not coming with the luggage of memories, of certain times, but brand new, fresh, as a teenager with nothing to worry about.
    But your review… well, that’s a different story 🙂 Just before I read it, I really don’t know how I found myself reading this New Yorker
    So when I opened yours, I was so amazed to observe ‘the coincidence”, it seemed that the universe was truly sendind me a message 🙂 But leaving that aside, your story gave me “the feeling that overcomes you when some minor vanished beauty of the world is momentarily restored”.
    Great piece, counting the days until the next one!

  • Nicoleta.Tomsa says:

    Thank you, everybody! @Daniko- I loved that image of the synched morning walk! @Natalia306 – thank you for the link, I have my Sunday evening movie sorted out 😀

  • Great post, Nicoleta! I have never had the chance to smell Dolce Vita, – almost sounds ironic, – but I can see quite well why it has a special place in your perfume past and present. I was too young – and almost always short of money – so I only had a bottle of Le Monde Est Beau back in the 90es, but I too remember fondly the rental shops, VHS and staying up late watching films. That was my “sweet life” 🙂

  • Nicoleta, fantastic article and review! So true that nostalgia can be both fortifying and toxic. Ahh, the video store, those were the days!!!!

    This sounds like an amazing scent delicious and sensual.