Ulrich Lang New York Lethe by Ulrich Lang
Creative Director Ulrich Lang of Ulrich Lang New York (otherwise known in my family as Herr Ulichen) has been obsessed with aroma and the graven image since he was a boy in Backnang. We first met in 2009 at a Sniffapalooza Fall Ball, then in 2011 at Elements Showcase in New York. His Old World charm combined with an iconic eclecticism became readily apparent: an astute businessman, statesman and creative who was genuinely invested in making connections between people with like interests. I have Uli to thank for every time he grabbed me by the wrist and whisked me off saying, “Here’s someone you have to meet! You’ll love one another!” – because unerringly, he was spot on. All these years later, those associations hold fast. If life is a circus, then Ulrich Lang is surely a Ringmaster.
Ulrich Lang of Ulrich Lang New York photo courtesy of Uli
His latest fragrance, Ulrich Lang New York Lethe – draws its name from one of the five rivers which flow through Hades (the Underworld), the river of forgetfulness/oblivion, so-called because those who imbibed its waters forgot their worldly cares. Those five rivers include Styx (the river of hate), Acheron (the river of pain), Cocytus (the river of lamentation) and Phlegethon (the river of fire). Ovid tells us that the river Lethe ran through and around the cave of Hypnos, and in so doing caused drowsiness. The shades of the deceased could not be reincarnated if they did not drink from Lethe’s waters to erase all vestiges of earthly memory. The goddess personification of Lethe was said to be the daughter of infamous Eris, the goddess of strife and discord. So why on earth Lethe?
There’s more, of course; isn’t there always? According to 1st C. A.D. Roman poet Publius Papinius Statius, the river Lethe bordered on Elysium, the final resting place of virtuous souls. That’s more like it: reunion with the noble of spirit, reincarnation, the expunging of sorrow and suffering. A premise I can vouch for unreservedly. It is this version of sweet oblivion which Ulrich Lang chose to represent in olfactory real time: a release from care into the embrace of a tender solace which envelops you benevolently. We needn’t find ourselves in the Underworld (although there may be no small resemblance globally at times) to benefit from the gentle grace which Lethe provides; everyday life suffices.
Lukasz Wierzbowski for Ulrich Lang
Ulrich Lang New York Lethe is custom-made for comfort and ease. From the outset it presents as a variant of fougère, with sprightly bergamot ushering in a fine herbal lavender heart note which is enhanced by a limpid aquatic water lily accord. The water lily is sweet, slightly earthy and delicate, a perfect pairing. Lethe is then cushioned in a spicily woody/musky, a goose-down pillow of Cashmeran® (IFF) wed to chalorous, coumarinic/herbaceous tonka, a woody vanilla, wisps of amber and velvety musk. The intimate nature of this fragrance reflects Ulrich’s inspiration: the exquisite, sensitively carnal image created by Polish film photographer Lukasz Wierzbowski which adorns Herr Lang’s characteristically minimalist packaging (where the focus is always on aesthetics and design). Each of the Ulrich Lang New York perfumes is accompanied by a specific photograph which is mindfully enmeshed with his creative process, and this one is particularly enigmatic and visually arresting.
It is significant and understandable that many of the fragrance releases since the beginning of the pandemic have been soothing, even gourmand in nature. Lethe manages to provide that safe harbor without venturing into the gourmand domain – and this makes it an excellent go-to scent for la vie quotidiènne and any occasion. A few spritzes and you feel cossetted and blissful.
Notes: bergamot, lavender, cedar wood, water lily, cashmere wood, musk, amber, tonka bean, vanilla
Bottle generously provided by Ulrich Lang – many, many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
Thanks to the generosity of Ulrich Lang, we have a draw for one Lethe – Ulrich Lang New York for one registered reader in the US or EU. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what appealed to you about Ida’s review, where you live and if you have a favorite Ulrich Lang fragrance.
You can read our reviews of Aperture 2014 here 2015 CaFleureBon best of Show APSU here, 2012 Lightscape here
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