Lili Bermuda Stewart Hall Perfumery

 Bermuda, considered the world’s oldest British Colony was much more formal in the 80’s. Jackets and ties for men and dresses for women at dinner were mandatory. Much has changed since then. The semi-tropical island, just 21 miles long with a cluster of 138 islands is not in the Caribbean as many believe, it’s in the North Atlantic Ocean located 650 miles east of the Carolinas. With over 300 sunken ships dating back to the 1600s, it is referred to as the shipwreck capital with more shipwrecks per square mile than anywhere else in the world! The island’s reefs are mostly responsible along with the island’s long history of piracy. Bermuda, named after the Spanish sailor Juan de Bermúdez, who discovered the islands in 1505 has the world’s fourth-highest per capita income primarily fueled by offshore financial services along with tourism. Its pink sand beaches and clear, cerulean blue ocean waters are certainly one of the main attractions. “Bermuda,” may conjure up the Bermuda Triangle or Bermuda shorts but for me, it is the Bermuda Lilies. Known as the Easter lilies they were introduced to the island from Japan in the mid-19th century. As late as the 1890s, Bermuda controlled fully 90 percent of the lily market in the United States. The Bermuda Easter lily is recognized as the Queen of the white flowering lilies all over the world. Other varieties have their virtues, but none have the perfection of form to equal the Bermuda variety.

The historic Hamilton Princess & Beach Club

On our second visit in 2015, I found a much more relaxed island. Checking into The Hamilton Princess & Beach Club I heard on the in-house TV channel “perfume store.” I asked the concierge where it was and she directed me to the Lily Bermuda boutique which was within walking distance in the town of Hamilton (the capital). Fortuitous indeed! And that’s how I came to discover Lili Bermuda. The boutique, located on the waterside of the shopping avenue was well-appointed and the fragrant drift upon entering enthralled me. I introduced myself to the manager and she gave us a scent tour of the brand’s fragrances. She mentioned that the Perfumery was located in St. George. Alas not able to make it there this time I made a note that upon returning we would visit.

Lili Bermuda Perfumer and owner Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone

Well, it took nine years before making our way back. Upon landing, we discovered Bermuda has a new state-of-the-art airport. Bermuda is constantly evolving. Staying in Somerset Village, the opposite end of the island from St. George, made it a prohibitively expensive round-trip cab ride (and cabs only take cash in Bermuda!).  Lili Bermuda owner and perfumer Isabelle Ramsay-Bracktstone suggested we take the 45-minute ferry ride from the Dockyards. The scenic ride across the clear blue ocean to St. George was a great way to see to experience the island. An excellent suggestion. Once docked, it was a five-minute walk up the cobblestone streets to Stewart Hall, the 1730s stone cottage that is one of St. George’s oldest residences and owned by the Bermuda National Trust, it exudes eighteenth-century elegance. Upon entering the foyer there is a staircase that separates the two main rooms, the Lili on the left and the Oleander on the right. Greeted warmly by Isabelle we headed to the Oleander Room to the fragrance table. While taking in the fragrances, I asked Isabelle how she came to Bermuda. It was in 2003 when she made it her home from her native Canada (Montreal) when she married her Bermudian husband, Kirby Brackstone. They decided to live in Bermuda for a few years but within a year a unique opportunity arose when she bought and assumed ownership of the nearly century-old Lili Bermuda Perfumery.

The Fragrance Room at Lili Bermuda Stewart Hall

Isabelle went through the fragrances with a deep passion that made it all the more engaging. Two of the fragrances I gravitated to were the Mary Celestia (Jean Claude Delville), and the current release, Island Rose. Why those? Well, I love history, and having an original bottle from the Mary Celestia, named after the Civil War blockade runner that sank off the south shore of Bermuda in 1864, available to be admired (under glass) was sensational. And, the current release, Island Rose, an elegant fresh floral aquatic that’s a collaboration with the historic Hamilton Princess & Beach Club (our connection), is a fragrance inspired by the Harkness Rose that grows on the hotel’s grounds.

 The Perfume Workshop Room at Lili Bermuda Stewart Hall

During the nearly two-hour personalized tour of Lili Bermuda Stewart Hall, there was much to absorb from its history, business, and fragrances. All aspects of the business are conducted on-premise. Isabelle walked us through the property while explaining the process. The top floor is where the assembly and fulfillment are handled. The discovery room is held off the main floor. The Perfume Workshop Learn the Art of Perfumery involves creating a signature fragrance with the assistance of a Consultant Perfumer learning the olfactory pyramid, educate yourself on natural essential oils and specialty aroma molecules. Isabelle informed me that complimentary Tours of the Perfumery are offered daily and the Afternoon Tea in the Gardens is offered on Wednesday and Saturday. Isabelle gives back by offering three-month internship training programs for those aspiring to a career in fragrance where they learn all aspects of the fragrance industry.

 Painting of Perfumer David Manuel Bothello 1936-2009

I inquired about the painting on the wall and she cited that it was perfumer David Bothello, who she studied under benefiting greatly from his 45 years of experience in the art of telling Bermuda’s story through fragrances. Stepping outside we went through the walled garden, which Isabelle has lovingly restored, and she finds it a source of inspiration. The making of the perfumes happens in a smaller, separate building off the garden. Handcrafted fragrances have been mixed at Stewart Hall since 1928. Back in the main building, I made a note of the fair amount of foot traffic. The Perfumery is a popular destination not only with locals but tourists alike.

Perfumer and owner Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone and Hernando Courtright

Lili Bermuda is one of the island’s most recognizable brands and is beloved and the fragrances are found in many of the island stores. I mentioned to Isabella about my visiting the Hamilton boutique on our last visit. Unfortunately, it was closed owing to the pandemic and the changing retail environment there. Since then Lili Bermuda has opened a store at the National Museum of Bermuda at the Dockyards, the massive complex that is a mixture of stores and restaurants that cater to the cruise ships when docked there.

Disclosure: Upon leaving Isabelle gifted my wife and I a bottle each for our anniversary. Thank you, Isabelle, for your hospitality and generosity, much appreciated.

Hernando Courtright ~ Senior Events Contributor and Brand Ambassador 

All photos of Lili Bermuda by Hernando Courtright© for ÇaFleureBon unless otherwise credited.

Lili Bermuda Island Rose Eau de Parfum is new for 2024 via the brand

Thanks to the generosity of Isabelle Ramsay-Bracktstone and Lili Bermuda, we have 100 ml of Island Rose Eau de Parfum for one registered reader anywhere in the world. You must be registered or your comment will not count to be eligible, please comment on what sparked your interest in Hernando’s report and where you live. Draw closes 8/08/24

Top: Rose Otto Bulgarian, Mandarine, Crushed Leaves; Heart:  Pink Rose Damascena, White Peonies, Raspberry; Base: May Rose Absolute, White Orris, Sandalwood

An original Mary Celestia bottle on display

 Please read (R.I.P.) Editor Emeritus Robert Herrmann’s review “Scented Spirits”of Mary Celestia Perfume here. His essay was a Perfumed Plume Finalist in 2019

Learn more about this woman-owned brand here https://www.lilibermuda.com/Lili

Lili Bermuda Perfumery

5 Queen Street
St. George’s GE 05
Tel. 441-293-0627

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