Ineke Gilded Lily: To Frame The Lily

October 17, 2010

I have been looking forward to trying Ineke Ruhland’s seventh fragrance, Ineke Gilded Lily, since she told me about it last April. Ms. Ruhland chose to create a fruity chypre with a heart consisting of the Japanese Goldband Lily. One of the things that I am impressed with time and again is the dedication of the best artisanal perfumers and Ms. Ruhland is one of those. To truly understand the Goldband Lily Ms. Ruhland planted some in her Bay Area garden and took the time to experience the Goldband Lily as a living thing before converting it to an accord.

Perfume Review: Caron Tabac Blond: Ain’t Nothing Like The Real Thing, Baby

October 13, 2010August 6, 2014

Tabac Blond- created in 1919 by the brilliant Ernest Daltroff [founder of, and master perfumer for the House of Caron]-
Is as fresh, edgy, and glorious as it was when it was first introduced.
As racy, devil-may-care, throw-all- caution –to-the winds.

Liz Zorn Acousticjus Stellar Oil Perfumes: Tiny Treasures

October 1, 2010

Liz has been working on a new line of oil –based fragrances – alcohol-free, fuss-free, unplugged [to paraphrase the lady], and a full-bodied free-for-all.
FUN.
These are tiny treasures.
Intense.
A little dab’ll do ya.

Surabhi Fragrances Kathmandu- A Fragrant Journey Into The Art Of Perfumery

September 25, 2010January 26, 2011

Friend in fragrance Mr. Akshay Bhatia, Owner and Perfumer of independent perfume house Surabhi Fragrances, was inspired during a perfume conversation between perfumers from all around the globe to create a perfume that he called Kathmandu. Mr. Bhatia indeed did take the time in his lab to make two different versions of “Kathmandu”, one that was made with almost entirely synthetic materials and the other an almost completely natural version, with the addition of synthetic aldehydes. As I eagerly anticipated samples, I was surprised when instead of physical bottles of perfume he sent me perfume briefs (notated formula for perfume) and suggested that I make them myself. Being an entirely Natural Perfumer and having absolutely no experience with synthetics I was rather intimidated by the long list of chemicals,but nonetheless ordered the exhaustive list and the natural equivalents in order to “have a go” as my British relatives would say.

Jo Malone English Pear & Freesia- Autumn Is Ecumen In

September 9, 2010

Ripe pears and apples and the warm baked desserts they star in are staples of my New England fall. When I had read Christine Nagel’s intention was to create a pear accord that encompassed not only the scents of the skin but also the pulpy juiciness under that skin I was enchanted. The main note she was choosing to pair with it has become one of the notes 2010 will become known for, freesia. Freesia has been adding a fresh green quality to new fragrances, all over, this year and the thought of that in contrast to a fully ripened pear accord sounded delightful. Happily Christine Nagel did not leave me hanging on the tree. Instead she has harvested a fruity floral that focuses on the whole quality of the central fruit accord and in conjunction with a duo of old and new floral accords creates a fruity floral fragrance of quality.

Illuminated Perfumes: Truth in Advertising, Peace and Gracing The Dawn

September 8, 2010

Roxana Villa talks the talk and walks the walk.
And I love her for this- among many, many other reasons.
She launches herself whole-heartedly into each endeavor with a full heart and a willing spirit.
Her perfumery is no exception.
She is a perfectionist, romantic visionary for whom botanical is best.
Two of Roxana’s newer compositions are Peace and Gracing the Dawn; she was kind enough to send them last week.