Sylvaine Delacourte La Collection Vanille~ New Perfume Review +“Vanilla Grows Up” Draw

Photo: Robert H.

Vanilla (like Musk) is one of my favorite ingredients, and I wanted to give it the treatment that would make it more elegant because sometimes it’s so sweet and heavy with caramel notes. So now (this collection) is all about vanilla as elegance.” Sylvaine Delacourte, Esxence 2018

Sylvaine Delacourte La Collection Vanille is the stuff that fragrant dreams are made of. As a perfumista who is decidedly ambivalent about vanilla in general (walking through the Target candle dept. is nothing short of torture for me), discovering five new vanilla perfumes as beautiful as can be, thrills me to no end. I had occasion to try Mme. Delacourte’s new line at Esxence 2018 Milan, and fell in love with them then, and in the current warmer weather, they positively bloom! Madagascar vanilla is the star of each of these perfumes, but used with such a deft and deliberate touch that it simply creates a solid base for the other notes to rest and draw upon. Vanilla is always present throughout each scent, but this isn’t the pastry-sweet vanilla so prevalent in perfumes today. It is an aromatic vanilla rife with notes of leather, spice, wood, and a beautiful soft milkiness.

Sylvaine Delacourte

I am obsessing over the complete collection, each one of which treats vanilla in a very grown-up and sophisticated manner and the results are completely enchanting and perfectly realized; exactly what you would expect from a Creative Director (formerly of Guerlain) and Perfumer of Mme. Delacourte’s skill and stature.

 Here are thumbnail snapshots of the five new scents.

Sylvaine Delacourte La Collection Vanille Vahina (Floral Vanilla)

Working with Randa Hammami the perfumer responsible for Van Cleef & Arpel’s iconic Orchidée Vanille, Amouage Epic Man, Guerlain’s Cruel Gardénia & L’Instant Magic (with Sylvaine Delacourte), Vahina wears like a Tahitian tropical dream. The mandarin and orange blossom are sprightly and creamy, before the Osmanthus absolue lends its gentle powdery floral heart to the mix. If like me, you are a fan of the Floriental genre, I suspect Vahina will speak to your heart. It certainly does so with mine. Notes: Italian mandarin, Tunisian Orange Blossom, Chinese Osmanthus Absolue, Brazilian tonka, Almond, Madagascar Vanilla Absolue

Sylvaine Delacourte La Collection Vanille Virgile (Aromatic Vanilla)

Virgile, composed with co-perfumer Irène Fadachidi of French company TechnoFlor is a truly unforgettable aromatic vanilla full of sage, rosemary, and  thyme softened with furry pine needle absolue and sweetened with hints of geranium and fresh cedar and of course that wonderful vanilla. In Virgile I felt the lingering traces of Mme Delacourte’s years as Creative director of Maison Guerlain, nothing I could put my finger on, just a feeling that nudged my senses. Virgile may very well be my favorite of the collection. Notes: Tunisian Rosemary, Sage, Thyme, French Pine Needle Absolue, Egyptian Geranium Leaf, Virginia Cedar, Canadian Cedar leaves, Madagascar Vanilla Absolue

Sylvaine Delacourte La Collection Vanille Vanori (Solar Vanilla)

Collaborating once again with Irène Fadachidi, Vanori is a textbook perfect example of how to build a Solar Vanilla that lasts all day yet feels as sheer as silk. Infused with a sense of spaciousness and warm honey, with an opening of bitter-ish pithy grapefruit, all the while honoring the deep vanilla, Vanori is another favorite for me. Notes: Calabrian Grapefruit, Paraguayan Frangipani, Honduran Styrax, French Honeycomb Absolue, Cashmeran, Madagascar Vanilla Absolue

Sylvaine Delacourte La Collection Vanille Vangelis (Spicy Vanilla)

When I asked Sylvaine the genesis of the name “Vangelis” her answer was threefold; it starts with “Van” (VANilla), ends with “elis” (which approximates the french word for spice; epicé), and also the Greek composer Vangelis, et voila!  Vangelis which was also created with Iréne Farmachidi, puts the beautiful Madagascar vanilla firmly adrift amongst the fresh spices of the souk and spice markets of India and beyond. Black pepper and carnation provide a nose-tingling sensation while the nutmeg, cinnamon, and cardamom bring deep and slightly musty/powdery notes with a slight misting of smoke. Through it all the vanilla weaves its aromatic spell creating a thoroughly engaging and sublime scent. If you love spice Vangelis is also the strongest of the five. Notes: Italian Clementine, Madagascar Black Pepper, Eastern European Juniper, Carnation,  Spanish Nutmeg & Almond, French Cardamom & Cinnamon, French MyrrhMadagascar Vanilla Absolue

Sylvaine Delacourte La Collection Vanille Valkyrie (Hesperidic Vanilla)

Created in collaboration with Perfume legend Maurice Roucel, (who named Mme. Delacourte as one of the best Creative Directors he has ever worked with in his interview with Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen) Valkyrie is a sublime riff on classic French perfumery injected with an ultra-contemporary sensibility. Valkyrie is all about the contrast of cool vs. warm with the mint, lime, and bracing galbanum creating a dichotomous zing against the creamy smooth Sandalwood and vanilla. I sprayed this superb concoction at 10 a.m. and could smell the last vestiges of the vanilla the next morning. Notes: Brazilian Lime, Calabrian Bitter Orange, Comorian Basil, American Curly Mint, Iranian Galbanum, Indian Sandalwood, Madagascar Vanilla Absolue

And there you have it. If I had to choose just one from the Sylvaine Delacourte Perfumes Vanilla Collection, I couldn’t. I would choose three; Virgile, Vanori, and Valkyrie; all of which just knocked my socks off with their complexity, sheer beauty, and vanillic veracity (but I would start saving to purchase the other two tout suite).                                                                                                                             

Sylvaine Delacourte Perfumes are available worldwide, in the USA at Indigo Perfumery. Online at www.delacourte.com

Disclosure: Thank you Sylvaine for the samples! The opinions are my own.

Robert Herrmann, Senior Editor

-Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief; I named Sylvaine Delacourte as the recipient of CaFleureBon Best Buzz of 2016

All bottle images from Mme. Delacourte; art by Paul Jacoulet ©

Photo from Ann of Indigo Perfumery©

Thanks to Sylvaine Delacourte, we have one sample pack of all five Sylvaine Delacourte Perfumes Vanilla Collection scents for one registered reader anywhere in the world, so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know if you are familiar with Sylvaine Delacourte Paris, which Sylvaine Delacourte La Collection Vanille perfume(s) speaks to you from Robert’s reviews and where you live. Draw closes 8/7/2018

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like  Cafleurebon and use our RSS Blog FEED…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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43 comments

  • notVanilla says:

    ME ME ME:) Register me. Right next to my bed 2 Phoenix Botanical perfumes bottles. Both VANILLA’S and both not samples. I have heard the name Sylvanine Delacourte but I am not familiar with her line. The Valkkyrie immediately called to me with lime and orange an mint. I could get obsessed with that combination.I live in Hawaii.

  • Gillian McNulty says:

    I have heard the name Sylvaine Delacourte, but have never tried any fragrances. They all sound beautiful, but I would choose Vanille Vangelis if I had to pick one. Thank you for the giveaway, and I am in the US.

  • Ahh… Vanilla! These all sound amazing and such a tempting delight in this warm weather. While they all sound delish, the Vanori sounds silmply scrumptious. Robert thanks for the lovely review of each of these morsals. I am in the US

  • Belladonna says:

    I am so with you on the Target candle isle! That immediately grabbed my attention. Currently waiting for the mail of a sample set of Sylvaine Delacourte’s musc fragrances – I’ve tried Smereldo and loved it! Vanille Vangelis sounds most awesome, but would love to try them all! Am in the US – thank you for the draw opportunity and the lovely review! Very exciting stuff!

  • I have Florentina by Sylvaine Delacourte. It is just gorgeous! I would love to sample the others.

  • Richard Potter says:

    I thought I had enough vanillas, but damn you, Robert, making me want 5 more. Great review! Vanora, Vangelus, Valkyrie.USA

  • I actually really liked the Musc range even though it was much derided by many. My fave was Helicriss for its cinnamony spiciness
    So this one is also intriguing to me. Would love to try them!
    I am in Melbourne Australia

  • Janet in California says:

    I am not familiar with this line but it looks like I need to be! Vanille Vahina jumps out as my type. I am in California, USA.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • I’ve never tried anything from this house but i would love to test them all since the notes list are amazing. I think my favourite would be Spicy Vanilla, those 2 combined should be a big win. Thanks for the chance, i am in the EU.

  • Thank you for introducing me to a new brand. All these vanilla based fragrances sound delicious. USA

  • Linda Trujillo says:

    I would probably try Vanille Vahile because I love floral vanillas and the idea of a solar tropical floral vanilla makes me swoon. I am not familiar with the line and that’s the one I would start with. I am in Los Angeles

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    So far have only tried Smeraldo from this house and am excited to explore the vanilla line. I would start with Vangelis, asI have yet to find my holy grail spice scent and this has potential. I live in the US and thank Sylvaine Delacourte and Caflurebon for this chance.

  • I’ve never heard of the house.
    Valkyrie appeals to me most. Not only because it was composed with Roucel, who is extremely versatile, but I love classic french scents.Even though it isnt a chypre, some of the description sounds like it could fall within the citrus forward aspects of some classic french scents, albeit moving in a vanilla direction instead.
    Im in the US. Thanks

  • I ordered the sample back, but left for holiday trip before receiving it, so when I’ll be back at home I’ll have big pleasure to test all of them :-))). I love vanilla when it’snot sweet so all this range should my cup of tea ;-). Graving already for Valcyrie and Vahina. Thank you for this article and the draw!!!

  • I very like this review. And I also very like vanilla scent. I’m not familiar with this brand, but sounds really nicely. All of the mentioned fragrances sounds wonderfully, mostly Vahina. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • I am have heard of this brand but have never tried any of their fragrances. Based on Robert’s review they ALL appeal to me so I would be thrilled to be lucky enough to win the sampler. In the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • chris.sidhe says:

    First time hearing about the Sylvaine Delacourte Paris workds. I must say that I was struck while reading description of Virgile. the idea of blending Vanilla with Sage, Rosemary and precious woods seems so organic and comforting that I just want to have a sniff of it. I like in Ukraine.

  • I have not heard about her line before but would love to try them. She is so talented. Virgile and Vanori calls my name… I live in Sweden..

  • I am very excited about this collection as I am a huge fan of her musk scents. Vangelus is the one I am most interested in trying. I live in Canada.

  • Nice. I love vanilla, but am tiring of the pastry sweet versions. I was excited to read about these grown up versions by such a talented lady. Thanks Robert for letting us know about these in depth. Valkyrie is most intriguing to me. Thanks for the chance. USA.

  • This is why I love reading this blog. I have not heard of this line and would love to try it. Thanks Robert. Vanilla Vangelis sounds great to me. I live in the US.

  • I only know of Sylvaine Delacourte from Guerlain, maybe she worked on then many years. My American friend told me just now about this beautiful site and the vanilla perfumes. La collection vanille Valkyrie sounds so nice maybe because I know that the great Maurice Roucel who I wear his musc ravageur.
    Thank you I live in Portugal.

  • NiceVULady says:

    I’ve heard the name of Sylvaine Delacourte before, but have never attached it to anything other than Guerlain. I’m a vanilla junkie, but I do so want a vanilla that isn’t the sweet gourmand scent that so often is the vanilla one gets. Vangelis and Virgile speak to me the most. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the US.

  • Scented Hound says:

    Thank you to Mme. Delacourte for the introduction to a “mature” vanilla lineup. They all would be on my list, but Virgile would probably stand out at the top for me since it carries herbs and that enticing fir pine needle. Then, Vangelis with those fresh spices and herbs. Sounds terrific! No, I was not familiar with the work of Sylvaine Delacourte, so thank you for this review Robert and the opportunity to sample her work. Waving from California!

  • Thank you all for your kind words. Even if you don’t win, ordering the sample set from Sylvaine’s website is super-easy and very inexpensive. The samples are 1.5 sprays, enough applications to really get a sense of the line. Enjoy!!

  • Those vanillas all sound lovely and different. Valkyrie sounds the most intriguing, because i cannot imagine, how it is possible to blend vanilla with galbanum and mint, that is very unusual. But they all are appealing to me and would be great to have a possibility to try them all.
    Thank you!
    EU

  • These sound fascinating. The Valkyrie sounds particularly interesting to me, but I would love to try them all. I’m from Melbourne, Australia.

  • A few weeks ago I received the beautiful Collection Musk from Sylvaine Delacourte and enjoyed sampling all of those scents. I did not realize there is a vanilla collection as well and am grateful it was highlighted here at CaFleureBon. Vangelis speaks to my heart. I have a love of spices, carnation, and vanilla in perfume. I am in the US. Thank you to Robert, CaFleureBon, and Sylvaine Delacourte for the fragrant beauty shared here.

  • Danu Seith Fyr says:

    Dear Robert thank you for this review.. I too was very impressed at Exsence. With this new interpretation.
    Great article and fabulous draw… good luck to all.

  • This is the first I’ve heard of this line. The Vanori sounds like the one I’d like the best.

  • VANGELIS!
    I immediately heard Taffey Lewis Night Club music from Blade Runner
    or Aegean Sea from his days with Aphrodite’s Child. I have some how been entirely unaware of this alchemist parfumerie – now I need to locate all of their frangrances! I make my own sad attempts at combining vanilla with patchouli and sandlewood. Would truly love to hold any of these Vanillas under my nostrils, but VANGELIS will forever hold a special place in my imagination.

  • doveskylark says:

    Like Robert, I have always been a bit wary of vanilla as a note in fragrances. I suppose I don’t mind a vanilla room spray or candle, but on my body, vanilla never seems to work. But Vanille Vangelis from the collection sounds like something I’d love to wear. I love the idea of combining vanilla with cardamom and, especially, black pepper. That “slight misting of smoke” sounds very intriguing.
    I’m not familiar with Sylvaine Delacourte Paris.
    I live in the USA.

  • What a wonderful collection of vanilla inspired fragrances! I’ve never heard of this perfumer. Each one sounds so gorgeous. The one that speaks to me is Vanille Vangelis because of it’s spicy notes.
    I live in the USA.

  • Carol Webb says:

    Vanille Vahina sounds amazing, I love the combination of vanilla and orange blossom. I would love to try it! The others sound amazing as well but I do so love orange blossom. I’ve not heard of this house prior to now but am looking at it. I’m in the US, thanks for the draw!

  • Vanilla as Elegance–yes!

    I am an unabashed vanilla lover but I feel you on the candle aisle…. This is such an exciting collection!

    Each one I read, I thought would be my favorite. The gentle Florals of Vahina, the herbaceous Virgile, honeyed Vanori(I am not sure what a solar vanilla is but it sounds heavenly), and oh the spicy one! Vangelis maybe my true love, oh but Valkyrie has such an awesome name and sounds like no vanilla I have ever tried before. I love it when fragrances play with temperature…
    Amazing

    It is good the draw is for a sampler because there is no way to pick one favorite, they are all brilliant facets and gems in their own right. Thank you very much for the reviews and draw!

    USA

  • I had no occasion to try any Sylvaine Delacourte Paris creations. The whole line sounds great and vanilla is a great note, and not easy to apply. La Collection Vanille Vangelis sounds most appealing for me. I live in Poland.

  • bumbuliuki says:

    I don’t usually enjoy typical vanilla perfumes because they tend to be overly sweet somtetimes. However Sylvainne Delacourte’s creations based around the note of vanilla sound amazing.
    I haven’t tried any of Sylvaine Delacourte’s creations yet, but I’ve ordered a sample set of the Musk Collection to give it a wearing.
    From Robert’s amazing description Vahina sounds the best for me.
    Thank you for the article and the giveaway.
    Greetings from Romania.

  • I have heard of Sylvaine Delacourte! All of these vanilla fragrances sound amazing. The Vangelis was most appealing to me. Thanks for the draw and I live in the US! 🙂

  • First time hearing about mme delacourt and the house. I like vanilla but most vanilla scents reminds me of marshmallows. I like how your descriptions of each scent areas so different… I would enjoy the spicy one or the orangey one, vangelis or vahina. In the US, and then you for the draw!

  • peppermoon says:

    Mmm these all sound delicious. I’ve never heard of Delacourte, so thanks for the introduction. Please enter me for the samples. The two that most appeal to me based on the reivews are Vahina and Vanori. What in the world is American curly mint though? I’m in the US

  • I haven’t tried any Delacourte frangrances but these vanillas sound amazing! I’d be all over Vahinia as it’s described as a Tahitian tropical dream. I’m in the U.S. Thanks!