Sultan Pasha Perfumes Joyeux Extrait

Wow, I feel good, I knew that I would now
I feel good, I knew that I would now
So good, so good, I got you ~ James Brown, I Feel Good

Who doesn’t want to feel good, hmm? I often refer to fragrance as my “aromatic medicine du jour”, and I’m certain that there are many of you would agree. One of my favorite feel-good genres is the spectacular fougère: a fragrance classification was first recognized in 1882, when French master perfumer Paul Parquet (whom Ernest Beaux, the perfumer who composed Chanel No.5, referred to as the “greatest perfumer of his time”) created his renowned Fougère Royale (Royal Fern) for the house of Houbigant. Actually, Fougère Royale had been preceded by Geo. F. Trumper’s Wild Fern Cologne, which was composed in 1877, but very few actually cite this fact. Guerlain’s Jicky was one of the jewels of 1889, and the year 1890 ushered in one of the best-known scents in this category, Penhaligon’s English Fern. The turn of the 19th century truly feels like the halcyon days of the fougère, which was initially intended for gentlemen, but became much-loved by women as well.

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In these days of expansive gourmandise, the fougère category may not be receiving the praise which it merits – and that begs the question, what is a Fougère, anyway? Ah. Here the waters tend to muddy a bit. The word fougère simply translates from the French as fern. Generally speaking, almost all ferns possess very little scent. This genre is intended to evoke the freshness and comfort which one experiences in the natural world: the sweetness of hay (coumarin, tonka bean), the floral herbalcy of lavender, often garnished with bergamot in the top notes, and geranium. These are embedded in a luxurious base which ideally includes oakmoss, patchouli, resins, vetiver, and gentle woods. There can be many variations on this theme. Some folks who are familiar with fougère scents may perceive them as barbershoppy, somewhat powdery, or perhaps a bit out of date – but they don’t have to be.

via Sultan Pasha Perfumes Instagram

Sultan Pasha Perfumes Joyeux Extrait de Parfum was one of my top ten fragrances of 2025 because of its marvelous complexity – aside from its significant beauty. Joyeux in extrait format does vary from the attar from which he drew his inspiration; the attar came first. I purchased some of each blind (I admit it. I have yet to be disappointed by Sultan’s attars.) with no sense of caveat emptor. Joyeux attar, like all attars – is oil-based, a composition which usually is very potent and long lasting. I initially find it a tad brighter, more verdant, and sharper (which I enjoy) than the alcohol-based perfume. I would venture that the extrait is a little suaver, more balanced and measured than its predecessor. One might say that it feels classically sophisticated, especially in the drydown – whereas the attar smells more buoyant and sunshine-y by comparison, very much like a field of wildflowers and tall grasses that you run through in your bare feet during high summer. They are both exquisite, especially if you enjoy lavender and oakmoss the way I do.

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Sultan Pasha Perfumes Joyeux Extrait de Parfum opens joyfully with an effusive blast of bergamot and clary sage; you sense the mint immediately. It’s a bracing, tonic experience which is followed by three different visages of lavender in enfleurage, essential oil, and absolute. At this juncture, you are enveloped in herbal bliss, because all those lavender skews more like an herb than a blossom. The jasmine and muguet which Sultan employs dovetail seamlessly; you know that there is a floral bouquet, but it’s part of a lovely whole. The foundation is a blessing, on so many levels: it’s as if the perfumer asked himself how he could best delight us – and then made it so, without violating a classical form. You have very likely heard of Mousse de Saxe- a famous base created by Marie-Thérèse de Laire in the late 19th century. It has been reconstructed since, with substitution of musk xylene (now prohibited) and a newer type of isobutyl quinoline (for that smoky effect) – and it is glorious and so useful: think the beloved older Caron perfumes such as Nuit de Noël and Narcisse Noir, as well as Shalimar, Jolie Madame, and many other fragrances. Think mossy, leathery, dark, mysterious, and smoky.

Sultan Pasha of Sultan Pasha Perfumes

This is just the tip of the base iceberg: a hefty dose of Mysore sandalwood melds with tonka, benzoin, patchouli, ambergris. Vetiver and cedar add their voices, along with the quirky charm of seaweed absolute, musk, and the sweet myrrh known as opoponax. With one spray, the entire composition morphs into an elegant mélange of powder, woods, and delicate threads of spicy floralcy faintly tinged with smolder; with two sprays, Joyeux’s longevity is satisfyingly prolonged. There is absolutely nothing dated about this fragrance: it can be worn at any time by anyone – on any occasion. If you have never found a fougère to warm up to, I encourage you to sample this for yourself. It’s a memorable introduction to a fragrance category which often slips through the cracks these days – and it may well change the way you view this hallowed genre.

Notes: lavandin enfleurage, lavender essential oil, bergamot, mint, lavender absolute, clary sage, jasmine, muguet, Mousse de Saxe, tonka, sandalwood Mysore, patchouli, vetiver, cedar, leather, Siamese Benzoin, opoponax , ambergris, musk, seaweed absolute

I purchased Joyeux Extrait de Parfum. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

all photos via Sultan Pasha Perfumes unless otherwise noted

Thanks to the largesse of Luckyscent.com  we have a 1 ml spray sample for one registered reader in USA. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Ida’s review of Sultan Pasha Perfumes Joyeux Extrait de Parfum and state that you live in the USA. Draw closes 1/19/2025

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