H.J. Ford Queen of the Snakes via diggingupstories.com
“This happened or maybe it did not. The time is long past and much is forgot.” ~ Inea Bushnaq’s Arab Folktales, 1986
Once upon a time is an essential formulaic construct utilized in narration; variants of it occur in both oral and written traditions which span the ages and nations: beyond seven mountains and seven valleys (Polish, Slovak); a long time ago (Indonesian, Danish); there was once, in the ancient time (Sanskrit); this is an old story (Gujurati); a long, long, long time ago it was, and there was a king in Galway (Irish)…ad infinitum.
Alexandra Balahoutis via Strange Invisible Perfumes
Independent botanical American perfumer Alexandra Balahoutis of Strange Invisible Perfumes has provided us with perfumed narrative since 2005, utilizing the highest quality materials available; the year she released her first perfumes I became smitten with the now-discontinued Arunima (Sanskrit for ‘glow of dawn’) and purchased it. Its exquisite rare blue lotus, ginger, lavender, cardamom, vanilla and frankincense beguiled me so. Since then Alexandra has continued to compose singularly arresting fragrances which many writers at ÇaFleureBon have reviewed (L’Invisible, Epic Gardenia, Dimanche, Magazine Street, Essence of IX, Three SIP Perfumes You Should Be Wearing, among numerous others) and loved. Alexandra’s most recent perfume belongs to the Reserve Series and is entitled Lost Era. It is bodice-rippingly beautiful: an aromatic homage to the unapologetically captivating perfumes which spared no expense – those which blossomed during the early 20th century. I happened upon a sample of Lost Era included with my recent order of Essence of IX (a longtime holy grail); it made me think of you, our readers – and how much you, too would take pleasure in it.
Paul Poiret gowns via The New Yorker
The early 20th century ushered in luxuriance where perfumery is concerned – an initial fascination with orientalism (think Paul Poiret, the romance of Guerlain L’Heure Bleue), lush natural materials (also new synthetics, but not applicable here) and the employment of aldehydes. Larger than life flowers with personalities to match coupled with the spark of diffusivity which aldehydes afforded. Caron, Guerlain, Piver, Chanel, Lubin, Coty – all canonized warm and cool bouquets in their myriad fragrances. It’s the warmth we address here. Lost Era is a glowing floral entity firmly grounded by sumptuous amber and a venerable patchouli. Those who know me suspect that I’m referencing ‘Homer’s wine-dark sea’ patchouli, and they’re correct: anything grassy/herbal or silvery transparent, as in more recent extraction methods or a less-aged patchouli wouldn’t be at home among this well-endowed animalic jasmine accompanied by sultry ylang ylang, radiant rose and rhizomal orris. Both ylang and jasmine possess that prowling quality lurking under their floral petticoats, full of mischief – which rose rounds out with complicity. Orris is not only a trusted fixative; it contributes counterpoint, floralcy of a different nature with the cool fingers of earth which peek beneath the hem of Lost Era’s aromatic garment. In the drydown, all the floral elements nestle happily into the lap of earthly comfort with a gentle sigh of satiety.
Emilie Flöge wearing an evening gown designed by her and Gustave Klimt, 1906-1907
When I smelt Lost Era, it immediately conjured Gustav Klimt’s lifelong muse and couturier Emilie Flöge: dreamy, original, free from the restraint of corsets – sensual and colorful. The photographic images of her in the garden speak to a fairytale quality, a timeless once upon a time which culminates in a happily ever after.
Notes: amber, ylang ylang, rose, iris root, jasmine, patchouli, aldehydes
Sample provided by Strange Invisible Perfumes – thank you! It’s so lovely. My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
Strange Invisible Perfumes Lost Era via Strange Invisible Perfumes
Thanks to the generosity of Strange Invisible Perfumes, we are offering a 50 ml bottle of Strange Invisible Perfumes Lost Era ($385) for one registered reader reader in the USA. To be eligible, please leave a comment explaining what appeals to you about Ida’s review. Do you have a favorite Strange Invisible Perfume? Draw closes January 31, 2020
Editor’s Note: Lost Era is part of the Reserve Series (the first since Love Letter) and will not be available after January 31, 2020. One of our top ten most read articles was written by Alexandra Balahoutis: In Defense of Botanical Perfumery as Olfactive Art.
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