State of Mind Secret of Success, by Karl Topham©
Tea and high society blend with hedonistic heat in this crescendo of Olfactory Art. Synesthesia is the involuntary association of the senses and the foundation of the decadent and intriguing brand ‘State of Mind’. The core tenant of founder Catherine Laskine Balandina was to create an olfactory experience par-excellence. Located in Versailles; her Olfactory Tea Room is an ode to the ‘Art Deco’ movement and freedom of expression. A place where the rules of ‘normal society’ do not apply, State of Mind is a location where customers revel in the magnetism of enchantment via tea tasting and olfaction. In order to realize this unprecedented project, Catherine enlisted three professionals at the pinnacle of their respective talents, Tea Master Olivier Scala, Illustrator Elena Minenko and Independent Perfumer Karine Dubreuil, formerly of Mane, Drom and Takasago. From the logo to the flacon, associated packaging and scents, State of Mind is a brand that has been crafted with incredible attention to detail.
Photograph of Catherine Laskine Balandina, State of Mind official image.
State of Mind Secret of Success surprises and entices. Upon experiencing it for the first time, I immediately make the connection to the Art Deco Movement, to which Catherine has drawn her inspiration. Secret of Success is bright, exaggerated and sultry. The flacon is a semi translucent glass sculpture, which shimmers and dazzles in the light, a statement of opulence and grandeur. As I gently hold the bottle, my mind turns specifically to the paintings of Tamara Lempicka who is known for her semi-abstract portraits of bright colour, clean lines and angular bodies. Reminiscent of the presentation of the flacon, Lempicka depicts an amplified version of reality. As an individual of considerable talent and enviable style, she encapsulated the ‘free living movement’ of the 1920’s. Known for her elegance, glamour and bohemian – champagne swilling – reputation and a penchant the salacious, Lempicka was an arbiter of the Art Deco who moved in the most enviable of circles.
Tamara De Lempicka collage Michelyn via Wikimedia
The opening is a bright Japanese Sencha Tea in combination with grapefruit and cinnamon is an unexpected and vibrant welcome. Place into your mind the imagery of both hot and cold tones- cinnamon, fiery and wild… grapefruit and sencha, refreshing and green. Such a contrast is creative and explosive. Akin to unexpected meetings and adventures. More specifically in this case, I refer to Lempicka’s portrait of Marquis Sommi, 1925. Lempicka was known to have numerous wealthy admirers and he was such an individual. His tastes would run from futurism to the avant-garde. The fragrance and presentation remind me of the Marquis’ attire: the sharp angular shoulders of his suit, painted in a cubo-futurist style, overtly dramatic. The masculinity and sultriness of the scent permeates into one’s consciousness via rosemary and ylang-ylang. The rosemary is both deeply aromatic and has a cleanness in symphony with ylang-ylang this brings a sharp and metallic edge to the scent.
Portrait of Marquis Sommi, by Tamara Lempicka, 1925
I imagine a meeting between the artist and her suitor. Indeed, such imagery is intense. The duality of intensity and subtlety is a beautiful juxtaposition and the secret to this fragrance’s success. Lempicka is said to have recounted her experience with the Marquis thus: “He came to me and said: ‘In three days, you will come to Torino. And I will wait for you.’ And I came to Torino. And waited for him. And he came. The first day we went to the opera. The second day we went to bed”.
The contrast of this encounter – the genteel visiting of the Opera, with the promise of brazen and salacious activity afterwards is such it fabulously exemplifies the hot and cold tones of this mesmeric scent.
State of Mind Secret of Success illustration by Elena Mineneko
The warmth of cardamom, vanilla and oud rounds off the sultriness of the fragrance. A nod to the desires of the flesh and the glow of impassioned trysts, the combination is done with style and panache. Indeed, warmth over sweetness is the overriding experience here. Tones of grey are imprinted into my mind, so suggestive and interesting, the transitions of the scent also reflect this, they are tempting and make one question the fragrance’s intent. As the aromatics continue throughout the lifecycle of the scent, sencha balances beautifully with the vanillic note. However, the oud here isn’t dominant and creates a just subtle depth.
Secret of Success is unexpected. It has a dandified, smooth exterior with a heart of a ‘Devil may care’ attitude. The scent is complex and clean, but also libertine and carnal. The contradiction of terms is entertaining and enlightening. Just like the artist Tamara Lempicka, State of Mind Secret of Success harnesses the outward style and grace of ‘high-society’ with the salaciousness and sultriness of the alluring protagonists. Catherine Laskine Balandina has realised her vision quite superbly
Secret of Success was launched in 2017. The perfumer is Karine Dubreuil-Sereni.
Karl Topham, Senior Contributor
Notes: Sencha Tea, Grapefruit, Cinnamon, Ylang-Ylang, Rosemary, Agar Wood (Oud), Vanilla Cardamom
State of Mind, Secret of Success kindly sent to Karl for review purposes. Thoughts are his own.
Thanks to the generosity of State of Mind we have a 100 ml bottle of State of Mind Secret of Success (255 Euros) for one registered reader in the EU, USA, UK, UAE You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you find most interesting based on Karl’s review and where you live. Draw closes 3/5/22
State of Mind Secret of Success was a 2018 Finalist in the Russian FIFI awards
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