Sous Le Manteau Vapeurs Diablotines (Nathalie Feisthauer) + Come Under My Cloak Draw

Sous le manteau Vapeurs Diabolitiques by Nathalie Feisthauer

“You are vapeurs diablotines. Cinnamon, vetiver and clove: a succubus’ sillage heralds your coming. Dominant even when subdued, you quench your thirst to the essence, to the fleshy, carnal substance of love. An animal wreathed in styrax and castoreum fleece, your gaze pierces through lies and disguise, your desire ever yearning for the most intimate, to taste naught but the naked truth of each one. Forgiving nudities, you know the ways of love, you charm away through life…” ~ “Which Love Potion Is For You?” questionnaire I took on souslemanteauparis.com

The above is a fait accompli: I had already sniffed my way through Olivia Bransbourg/Nathalie Feisthauer’s Sous Le Manteau line of samples and had determined that Vapeurs Diablotines was my preferred choice.

Olivia Bransbourg of Sous le Manteau and Frederic Blanchard of Sous Le manteau

 Olivia Bransbourg and Frederic Blanchard in front of Sous Le Manteau window display

The lovely Madame Bransbourg and I met many years ago in New York. I was transfixed by her depth, graciousness, outer and inner beauty and her queenly stature. We shared several common interests: music, the arts, perfume, a love of cooking and family.

Sous le manteau won the Fragrance Foundation Uk award

Sous le Manteau won the Fragrance Foundation UK award

When she came upon receipts of love potions transcribed by monks in officinal books in the 19th C. in Paris, it became her mission to recreate them for contemporary wear – with the help of Master Perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer (Givaudan, Symrise, LAB scent). I’ve since smelt all the Sous Le Manteaus with not one clinker in the collection. It’s a testament to their combined devotion to excellence.

 album cover of Il Tabarro

The moment I saw the name ‘Sous Le Manteau’ I was immediately transported back to conservatory days in the late 1970s, when I studied under the perfectionist eye of conductor, opera and stage director, vocal coach and accompanist John Moriarty of the New England and Boston Conservatories – he who wrote the definitive text on diction for singers (and also accompanied my New England Regional Metropolitan Opera audition). Mr. Moriarty had undertaken the production of Puccini’s Il Trittico – a musical trilogy of one-act operas whose melodies are well-loved and often heard (Suor Angelica’s Senza Mamma; Gianni Schicchi’s O Mio Babbino Caro). The first (and darkest) opera is Il Tabarro – The Cloak – in which the river boss on a Seine barge (Michele) is married to a younger woman (Giorgetta) who falls in love with handsome Luigi. They plan to run away – but Giorgetta’s husband gets wind of this and is fiercely jealous. When Giorgetta waits in vain for Luigi at the appointed time, he doesn’t appear – and she tries to reconcile with her husband, little knowing that Michele has already murdered him and hidden him beneath his capacious cloak! The last lines of the libretto say it all:

Vapeurs Diabolitiques for Sous le Manteau review
Il Tabarro Michele Murdering Luigi via mariinsky.ru

 

GIORGETTA (meekly):
I am sorry, Michele,
For having been so horrid!

MICHELE: Don’t worry…. You are nervous….

GIORGETTA: Yes, I know…. you are right. Tell me that you forgive me!
(coquettishly):
Don’t you want me near you?

MICHELE: Where?… Where?… Under my cloak?

GIORGETTA: Yes, quite close…. very close….
(with trembling voice):
You know, you used to tell me….
“Every man must needs carry
Some great cloak, where he hides
Sometimes a wondrous joy
Sometimes a profound sorrow.”

MICHELE (savagely):
Sometimes a crime…. a murder….
Come, hide beneath my cloak! Come here! Come here!…
(He rises, throws open the cloak. Luigi’s dead body falls at Giorgetta’s feet. With a great cry she draws back, horror stricken. But Michele rushes upon her and violently throws her upon the body of her dead lover.)

CURTAIN

Sous le manteau perfumes vapeurs Diabolitiques love potion recipe

Vapeurs Diablotines ancient receipt

In the last dialogue of Il Tabarro we feel unbridled emotions, passions and a tragic conclusion. In Sous Le Manteau Vapeurs Diablotines we experience the insistent, unremitting desires which arise from opposite sides of a coin like the two faces of Janus. What distinguishes them is the simmering cauldron of ardor and vehemence lying patiently in wait in this perfume. Its claws are sheathed. There are as many elements which seduce soothingly as those which inflame.

Leontyne Price

 Soprano Leontyne Price photo Carl Van Vechten

Leathery, spicy, fougère-reminiscent, intoxicating – it is subtle nonetheless, with its stealthy orientalism cloaked in sensitive aromatics. Vapeurs Diablotines doesn’t resort to cudgeling your senses simply because it isn’t necessary; that in itself is a singular trait in these times of the beastly overdosing/sledgehammer approach to current day animalic-redolent perfumery. Sparking citruses segue into the realm of unapologetic, bawdy spice: coriander, clove, bay. Incense for mystery and that sacred/profane dichotomy; an herbal/floral heart of tender geranium (not timid by nature) for balance. Vapeurs Diabolotines’s foundation seethes with abundant resins – spicy tonka, benzoin and vanilla, celestial/carnal opoponax, shadowy cistus labdanum and styrax – syrupy, leathery, perfumed with vestiges of incense and spice. Arid cedarwood and loamy patchouli as olfactory counterpoint, with Haitian vetiver for delectable grassy balsamic tones. Otherwise potentially powerhouse animalics are skillfully dosed: musk, synthetic castoreum and Synarome’s Animalis® – costus-like and potent.

Nathalie Feisthauer perfumer

Nathalie Feisthauer

What I find remarkable is the artistic, wearable equilibrium which Mme. Feisthauer achieves; it’s masterful, compelling and beguiling. Madames Bransbourg and Feisthauer constitute a formidable team; I look forward eagerly to their next venture…

Notes: bergamot oil, yellow mandarin oil, coriander oil, clove oil, bay oil, incense oil, geranium oil, cedarwood, patchouli oil, vetiver oil from Haïti musk, vanilla absolute, benzoin resin, tonka bean absolute, opoponax resin, styrax resin, cistus, Castoreum Synth® (Firmenich),  Animalis® (Synarome)

 

Samples generously provided by Olivia Bransbourg – many thanks! They are marvelous. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Senior and Natural Perfumery Editor

Sous le manteau Vapeurs Diabolitiques review

Sous Le Manteau Vapeurs Diablotines

Thanks to the largesse of Olivia Bransbourg of Sous Le Manteau, we are offering one 14 ml travel flacon for one registered reader in the USA, EU, or UK (be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible, tell us what appeals to you about Ida’s review of Sous Le Manteau Vapeurs Diablotines and where you live. Draw closes 11/19/2020

brand images unless otherwise noted

The collection is available in the USA at Indigo Perfumery

Please read Alexandre Helwani’s review of Poudre Imperiele here

Please follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @idameister @nathaliefeisthauer @souslemanteauparis

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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41 comments

  • NiceVULady says:

    As soon as I started to read this review, I knew it had been written by Ida. Her incomparable style and imagery is just stellar. I always trust her judgement, so this will be another one to try . I love the notes-they are among my favorites. Thank you for a gorgeous review and thank you to Sous Le Manteau for this awesome draw. I’m in the USA

  • Bryant Worley says:

    What appeals to me about Ida’s review is her itemization of this fragrance’s contrasts, as well as her assertion that the wearer’s senses would not be ‘cudgeled’ by the animalics: “Leathery, spicy, fougère-reminiscent, intoxicating – it is subtle nonetheless, with its stealthy orientalism cloaked in sensitive aromatics. Vapeurs Diablotines doesn’t resort to cudgeling your senses simply because it isn’t necessary; that in itself is a singular trait in these times of the beastly overdosing/sledgehammer approach to current day animalic-redolent perfumery. Sparking citruses segue into the realm of unapologetic, bawdy spice: coriander, clove, bay. Incense for mystery and that sacred/profane dichotomy; an herbal/floral heart of tender geranium (not timid by nature) for balance. Vapeurs Diabolotines’s foundation seethes with abundant resins – spicy tonka, benzoin and vanilla, celestial/carnal opoponax, shadowy cistus labdanum and styrax – syrupy, leathery, perfumed with vestiges of incense and spice. Arid cedarwood and loamy patchouli as olfactory counterpoint, with Haitian vetiver for delectable grassy balsamic tones. Otherwise potentially powerhouse animalics are skillfully dosed: musk, synthetic castoreum and Synarome’s Animalis® – costus-like and potent.”

    I live in Waldorf, MD, USA.

  • audesko1 says:

    I love Ida’s writing and what appealed to me was this statement.” Leathery, spicy, fougère-reminiscent, intoxicating – it is subtle nonetheless, with its stealthy orientalism cloaked in sensitive aromatics. ” Vapeurs Diablotines sounds beautiful. I would love to try. Thank you USA California

  • patrick_348 says:

    Ida’s association of Vapeurs Diablotines with Puccini’s Il Tabarro obviously may have been inspired by the brand name Sous le Manteau, but it would seem to support the impression that the fragrance is sexy, a little bit jarring, and animalic. Yet her insistance that it does not cudgel the wearer with beastly emphasis suggests that it is operatic in the beauty and delicacy that accompanies its passion. I like how CaFleureBon writers often find the right extended metaphor to describe a fragrance. I live in the US, in North Carolina.

  • chatoncharmant says:

    I love a leathery animalic fragrance for fall/winter and this one sounds heady and dramatique! If this scent brings me even one baby step closer to looking like Leontyne Price I’ll gladly drown in it. Many thanks from WI USA

  • INYA says:

    I enjoyed reading about the inspiration for the perfumes: receipts of love potions transcribed by monks in the 19th C. Congratulations, Sous Le Manteau, on your reward. Mich USA

  • Vlad VS says:

    Now this is something i’d definitely love to try. I absolutely love the inspiration behind the scent. The way Ida manages to transpose everything in a historical context is utterly fascinating ! Thanks for the draw ! Based in the EU

  • DuftHochZwei says:

    I’m new to this brand, not to Madame Feisthauer though. I’m curious to follow your description how those strong notes are combined by a light hand.
    I’d love to win this to Germany, thanks for the draw!

  • Daniel Fisher says:

    It’s seems sort of lazy for Art and Olfaction to give an award for a newcomer perfume, when said perfume has been created by career nose Nathalie Feisthauer. I do understand that it’s new “house” not new nose, but that isn’t going to get rid of little bugbear of mine. The perfume itself sounds gorgeous. The spicy, leather, almost fougerey incense and spice and citrus all singing together is a mezzo piano, humming along a gorgeous melody nonetheless. I’m also pleased to learn a bit about Ida’s world. I had no idea she was a trained vocalist! I’m not much of a singer but I have played the piano for 19 years now and specialize in baroque and classical.
    From Texas with love.
    Xoxo

  • Amaziz89 says:

    Leathery, spicy, fougère-reminiscent, intoxicating – it is subtle nonetheless, with its stealthy orientalism cloaked in sensitive aromatics. Vapeurs Diablotines doesn’t resort to cudgeling your senses simply because it isn’t necessary; that in itself is a singular trait in these times of the beastly overdosing/sledgehammer approach to current day animalic-redolent perfumery. Sparking citruses segue into the realm of unapologetic, bawdy spice: coriander, clove, bay. Incense for mystery and that sacred/profane dichotomy; an herbal/floral heart of tender geranium (not timid by nature) for balance. Vapeurs Diabolotines’s foundation seethes with abundant resins – spicy tonka, benzoin and vanilla, celestial/carnal opoponax, shadowy cistus labdanum and styrax – syrupy, leathery, perfumed with vestiges of incense and spice. Arid cedarwood and loamy patchouli as olfactory counterpoint, with Haitian vetiver for delectable grassy balsamic tones. Otherwise potentially powerhouse animalics are skillfully dosed: musk, synthetic castoreum and Synarome’s Animalis® – costus-like and potent. I am intrigued by Vetiver and Patchouli notes in particular. But equally intrigued by the leather and spice as well. Thanks a million from the United Kingdom

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    What I find remarkable is the artistic, wearable equilibrium which Mme. Feisthauer achieves; it’s masterful, compelling and beguiling. Madames Bransbourg and Feisthauer constitute a formidable team; I look forward eagerly to their next venture…

    Notes: bergamot oil, yellow mandarin oil, coriander oil, clove oil, bay oil, incense oil, geranium oil, cedarwood, patchouli oil, vetiver oil from Haïti musk, vanilla absolute, benzoin resin, tonka bean absolute, opoponax resin, styrax resin, cistus, Castoreum Synth® (Firmenich), Animalis® (Synarome) A cacophony of notes to make any perfumer jealous intrigued by the use of oils in this concoction. I am really fascinated by patchouli and vetiver in particular. A beautiful piece by Ida intrigued to learn how it smells like on skin. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • Daniel Fisher says:

    Excuse me, I’ve incorrectly named the awarding party as art and olfaction when it is clearly The Fragrance Foundation. How silly of me.
    Love the write up by Ida, and how she’s once again laid out these notes. Will they sing as beautifully as she? Who can say? I’m sure both are worthy experiences.
    Xoxo

  • Princess Anna says:

    I love the way such a complex fragrance is put in such a simple bottle, as if the bottle tries to stay out of the way. And the name, oh, the mysterious and seductive name, made me think of the way the devil temps the mortals to sell their souls. i live in Bucharest, Romania

  • Danu Seith-Fyr says:

    Fabulous Ida, I too comprehend your addiction to Sous le manteau, all the fragrances are divine and yield up hidden parts of oneself, the secretive, the daring, the sundered and the impulsive. Vapeurs diablotines drew my attention also, I enjoyed your journey with it, especially the recognition of its bawdy and unapologetic nature. It takes no prisoners and is all elegant seduction. I would love to begin my collection of this superb house, led by a duo of formidable yet exquisitely feminine women with this particular perfume and then lets see what is unleashed !!! I live in beautiful SW France.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    How wonderful this sounds! I like how Ida makes it sound like a balanced fragrance composed of some bold notes–that it uses dark, deep, and animalistic notes well and not just to “shock the senses” like some contemporary “dirty” niche scents. Thanks for this draw! I’m in the US.

  • theEfat7 says:

    the imagery that Ida used in her article is what was most appealing to me. In describing her journey with the fragrance, Ida created a history that in my mind, enhances the richness of the fragrance. When we try this, we will no longer be sniffing blind – we will be able to experience it through not only Ida’s nose, but also those of the ancient monks and modern perfumers, as well as our own.

  • yaayyya says:

    I’ve been curious about this brand after seeing a review on YouTube (Perfume Art Talks channlel, in Russian), and this review has fueled my interest! I really liked the artistic description of the smell, the history and inspiration begind the brand, the ancient recipe and the test on company’s website 🙂 I’m from NY, USA.

  • IcarusMidAir says:

    I thoroughly enjoyed the beautiful way that Ida captured the essence of Vapeurs Diablotines. One epithet that stood out for me was “the simmering cauldron of ardor”. What an image!

    I had the chance of sampling all the collection from Sous le Manteau, and they really are all stunning.

    I’m based in Romania

  • Salem says:

    I thoroughly enjoyed Mrs. Meister’s analogy between Sous le manteau and Il tabarro, not only because of the name coincidence – parallelism, but also because the perfume itself, in the editor’s description, sounded just the way I imagine a gloomier opera by Puccini (gaieties such as Gianni Schicchi and bittersweet dramas such as La Boheme’s aside) would smell like: spices, resins, animalics, with no sweetness, and its roundness belonging simply to the truthful body of the natural essences.
    I am in the EU and would love to smell Il tabarro’s olfactive correspondent. Thanks.

  • Brian says:

    I appreciate learning about a perfume that is new to me, and this perfume seems like one that I can like. I think that it is interesting that it is at least somewhat inspired by love potions which were transcribed in officinal books by monks a very long time ago. The combination of notes of this perfume seem interesting to me, and I have heard of the expertise of the perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer before. I hope that I win the draw; I live in MD., U.S.A.

  • drjedi says:

    Masterful writing by Ida as usual. Enjoyed how she created the tension of the opera Il Tabarro and contrasted that with the notes in vapeurs diablotines – animalics, spices, leather, citruses, with perfect balance (no sleghammering). I like strong fragrances but without sledgehammering of one note or the other. Enjoyed reading about Ida’s background as a vocal artist. Thanks for the review and the draw. Writing from the USA.

  • Trinity33 says:

    A leathery, fougere-adjacent fragrance is appropriate for cooler weather. Vapeurs Diaboltines seems to have sufficient presence without hitting you over the head with resins. I appreciate Ida’s reminisces about her conservatory days in the 1970s and the emotions it brought back with this fragrance. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • gianluca says:

    I like how every time you introduce a new fragrance with a piece of old music that I can go back to! Now I know what music I want to listen to tonight. (US)

  • jundaasian says:

    The name Sous Le Manteau automatically causes me to imagine something mysterious since it means under the coat. What is under the coat? The resinous notes really convey to me a sense of drama and air to it which I really do like and it makes me believe that the comparison to a Puccini opera. Very hoping to try this fragrance. I live in Florida, US.

  • Paeonnia says:

    I loved how Ida incorporated opera into her review! The scent sounds really appealing with thevtransitions from citruses to herbs and finally resins.
    I’m in Eu, Slovenia.

  • marcopietro says:

    Nice review! It trasporting us in an ancient era full of contrast between feelings, scents, people.
    A whirlwind of passions that translates into a contrast of olfactory experiences kept in balance by the mastery of the creators. It sounds really bewitching. I don’t know the line but I’m going to study their fragrances.
    I live in EU
    Thanks!

  • doveskylark says:

    I loved reading about Ida’s conservatory days! I also am happy to learn more about Puccini’s Il Trittico and how it relates to Sous Le Manteau Vapeurs Diablotines. I took the quiz and I matched up to this one. I am happy about that because I love “unapologetic, bawdy” spice.
    I live in the USA.

  • Eirik H. says:

    Such an enigmatic, yet enlightening review. I loved how Ida melded the soul of this perfume as she perceived it, with the tragic romanticism of opera, another realm near and dear to her heart. It is very clear that each fragrance released by Sous Le Manteau is a masterpiece in its own right and it makes me want to explore this house in depth. Thanks for the great review, Ida! I’m in Oregon, USA.

  • seanchen says:

    I really like the part of the review that contained the bit about the opera and the killing and hiding it beneath the cloak. I think that really heightens the air of mystery surrounding this fragrance. I really like these more obscure “Easter eggs” in perfumery.
    Writing from Florida, US.

  • Dami says:

    I enjoyed the parallel drawn with Puccini’s Il Tabarro and the description of the fragrance’s complexity. The animalic accords sound intriguing. I am in the USA.

  • wandering_nose says:

    Ida’s review is utterly compelling in its descriptiveness and its references to Puccini’s opera dedicated to most extreme feelings and emotions. The concept of the fragrance is bold and artistic, the notes are intimidating in their beauty and potency, the creation is bound to be a masterpiece… I am based in Ireland. Thank you for the draw

  • vickalicious says:

    Lovely review! That’s incredibly interesting that Olivia Bransbourg set out to re-create potions written by Monks of long ago–pretty cool, actually! I’d not heard of Olivia Bransbourg or Sous Le Manteau, so this post was a wonderful introduction! I loved Ida’s comparison to Il Trittico–also did not know that Ida had a musical background!! This fragrance sounds wonderful, and I would love to try it. Thank you for the giveaway, located in USA.

  • Ale says:

    The parallel between Puccini’s Il Tabarro and the description of this intriguing fragrance is what draws me to it. Also, I enjoyed the connection with the past, both through Ida’s conservatory days in the ’70s and the receipts of love potions transcribed by monks in the 19th century. I live in the EU.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the excellent review Ida.

    I’m always fascinated by perfumers and companies that look to the past for inspiration. Materials change with the time period, which means smells change. Any ancient recipe will forever be lost to the sands of time – but getting a hint of the past through fragrance is something beautiful. I hope to see more from this perfumer.

    I loved reading about this perfumers take on theis recipe and how she made it her own – epecially the ‘sucre’ elements.

    I’ve not smelt anything from this house before.

    Regards from WI, USA

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    Thanks for this review and the draw. The line is unknown to me but it sounds all so misterious and classy. I would like to try it, i live in the EU.

  • roxana.t says:

    Hi, I enjoyed reading this review and as usual Ida is very good doing them. Reading the review,it gave my impression of an very elegant perfume due of the notes used.Very beautiful pyramid! I live in Italy . Thanks for the draw.

  • KateD says:

    Oh my goodness! I so completely enjoyed this review. Love potions transcribed by monks–it “seethes with abundant resins”–“artistic wearable equilibrium”!!!! Reading a review by Ida is always part imagery, part poetry, and wholly engrossing. Thank you for the review & the draw, I’m in the US.